UPDATE 2022: I am in the process of updating some of my original patterns – like this one – that were written in chart form. I haven’t gotten to this one just yet, but I have updated a fully written out version of the Baby Bunny on THIS POST.
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Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
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If you want to make the exact bunny that I have made here is your list of Materials:
Crafter’s Secret in Pale Yellow
Meet Butterbean! Isn’t she the sweetest? Butterbean is the 4th pattern in my farm series and is so cuddly, sweet. You can modify this pattern in many ways. I have the full list of instructions in PDF in my Etsy store HERE and also I have just added a 4-pattern Farm Series BUNDLE where you get 4 patterns at a great price! You get Haybelly the Horse, Digger the Donkey, Barley the Beagle and Butterbean – all in one convenient place.
I held two strands of yarn together for this bunny. This is the reason: I love working with fuzzy, soft yarns like Cloud 9, but it can be tricky to see your stitches. When you pair it with a regular strand of yarn it helps to see your stitches – also, holding two strands I can get a “mixed” color. I held the regular strand of Crafter’s Secret in pale yellow with the Cloud 9 in Cream for the head, body and feet/legs. I used a strand of I Love This Yarn Sport Weight in white with the Yarn Bee Tender Touch in pale yellow for the Ears.
All of these choices are not critical to the success of this pattern – you can easily use the same yarn/two yarns throughout this pattern. You can even use one strand of a 4-ply worsted weight yarn instead with a G hook. This will result in a smaller less fluffy bunny.
-Hook : I used an H hook for the body of this pattern, an I hook for the arms/legs, and my J hook for the ears. I chose this size because like I mentioned above, I held two strands together throughout. If you do not do this you need to adjust your hook for the body so you don’t have stitches that are too loose for your stuffing. G is recommended for a single strand of 4-ply weight yarn.
When making Amigurumi theses hooks saved my hands! They really are worth every penny spent and have helped to end my hand pain with their ergonomic grips. And as I write this post they are on sale 47% off!
Okay, here she is – Butterbean:
This is a simplified pattern as stated – a chart with the numbers – you need to have knowledge of crochet amigurumi and how to do rounds and increases to read. If you do it will be pretty straight forward. If not – each of my chart form patterns comes with a free cheat sheet where each increase and decrease is spelled out.
Stitches Used:
Chain: Ch
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Hdc: half double crochet
DC: double crochet
I start my work with a chain 2 and then sc in second chain from hook, but you can also start with a magic ring if you prefer that start.
I also give a lot of tips and tricks in all my PDF Etsy patterns and ALL my Etsy patterns comes with a second PDF with detailed increasing/decreasing instructions if you need help with the rounds.
This pattern starts at the top of the head and goes into body without breaking off your yarn. It finishes off under the body.
Head/Body:
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 |
| 5 | 30 |
| 6 | 36 |
| 7 | 42 |
| 8 | 48 |
| 9 | 54 |
| 10-14 | 54 – Place safety eyes if you are using them between rounds 12-13 and embroider the nose and mouth before continuing. |
| 15 | 48 |
| 16 | 42 |
| 17 | 36 |
| 18 | 36 |
| 19 | 30 |
| 20 | 24 |
| 21 | 24 |
| 22 | 30 |
| 23 | 36 |
| 24-25 | 36 |
| 26 | 42 |
| 27-30 | 42 |
| 31 | 48 |
| 32-34 | 48 |
| 35 | 54 |
| 36-37 | 54 |
| 38 | 60 |
| 39 | 66 |
| 40 | 72 |
| 41-45 | 72 |
| 46 | 66 |
| 47 | 60 |
| 48 | 54 |
| 49 | 48 |
| 50 | 42 |
| 51 | 36 |
| 52 | 30 |
| 53 | 24 |
| 54 | 18 |
| 55 | 12 |
| 56 | 6 |
Feet/Legs (make two): *with I hook if you are using the materials I used or similar. I wasn’t stuffing these much, so I used a larger hook.
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 |
| 5 | 30 |
| 6-13 | 30 |
| 14 | 24 |
| 15 | 18 – stuff lightly |
| 16 | 12 |
| 17 | 6 |
| 18-29 | 6 *FO leave long tail to sew |
Arms (make two): *with I hook if you are using the materials I used or similar. I wasn’t stuffing these much, so I used a larger hook.
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 |
| 5-9 | 24 |
| 10 | 18 |
| 11 | 12 |
| 12 | 6 |
| 13-22 | 6 *FO but leave long tail to sew |
Ears(make 2): *I used my J hook for these with my two strands. These are worked in rows and not rounds.
Chain 51
Hdc in second chain from hook and across the chain (50)
Ch 1 and turn
Hdc down chain again. Do not turn.
Work 5dc in the space of the end.
Turn to work on opposite side of the chain.
Hdc across the chain.
Ch 1 and turn
Repeat with hdc all the way around the ear on both sides, but when you get to the 5 dc on the end you will do 2 dc in each stitch (10 dc)
Ch 2 and turn.
Work DC all the way around the ear on both sides and around curve. FO with tail to sew. Fold the flat end in half and sew to head.
I used my green clover pom-pom maker to make a pom-pom tail. Sew to body.
