UPDATE 2022!! I am currently in the process of updating my older chart from patterns to fully written out versions. I have updated the pattern and the update has replaced the original version below.
Clover the Baby Bunny came about as a modification to my Butterbean Crochet Bunny pattern when one of my Facebook friends suggested the “bashful baby bunny” and another friend mentioned “Clover” in my A-Z Facebook Page challenge. (I am doing a challenge where my friends make suggestions for each letter of the alphabet, and I use their ideas as challenges) – Clover came about when I decided to merge the two suggestions. She is a modification on Butterbean the Bunny.
A Burgundy Basket Pattern -find me on FACEBOOK.
First, the boring bits:
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Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2022. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
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Most all of my patterns are worked in the CONTINUOUS Round: I do not join and chain but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place. I will always note if this is not the case.
Pattern Note: If I write, “sc 2” it means single crochet in the next 2 stitches – whereas, “2sc” means to make 2 single crochet in one stitch.
Pattern Note: (sc, 2sc) repeat around – this is read as you make a single crochet in the next stitch and then 2 sc in the next stitch and repeat this sequence around the entire round. You may also see this something like this (2hdc) 7 (x) – this means make 2hdc 7 times around and the (x) is the number of stitches on that round.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: Sc
Inc Sc or Inc or 2sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Inv dec: invisible decrease or decrease (I use invisible decrease in amigurumi, and it is one of the best things I have ever learned for amigurumi. If you are unsure how to do this, there are many great online/video tutorials.)
hdc: half double crochet
hdc inc or inc hdc: increase hdc
Decrease: Dec or Sc2tog
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
Dc: double crochet
Tr: treble crochet
Materials:
This Bunny uses Buttercream Angel Hair yarn in Pale Pink. My yarn is a #5 Bulky yarn so if you choose a #4 yarn or different you will need to adjust your hook size accordingly.
I held two strands of yarn together for the body on this bunny. I used a strand of I Love This Yarn Sport Weight in white with the Angel Hair for the Head/body and then the arms/legs and ears are just the Angel hair yarn.
-Hook: I used a size I/5.5mm hook for the body, head, arms/legs, and a size J/6.0mm hook for the ears.
These are the hooks I use:
If those are too expensive at the moment, I have also bought this kit and it is really great! And it’s affordable enough to buy one for you and one for a friend.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. The ones I have used on the pink bunny come from this set:
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
I start my work with a chain 2 and then sc in second chain from hook, but you can also start with a magic ring if you prefer that start.
This pattern starts at the top of the head and goes into body without breaking off your yarn. It finishes off under the body.
*I do not join and chain but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place.
Head/Body:
Chain 2. Sc 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 6: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Rounds 7-11: sc in each stitch around (36)(36)(36)(36)(36)
*If you are using safety eyes, insert them between rounds 9-10 with about 5 holes between them.
Round 12: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
Round 13: sc in each stitch around (30)
Round 14: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Round 15: sc in each stitch around (24)
Round 16: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around
Rounds 17-18: sc in each stitch around (18)(18)
Stuff the head and continue to stuff as needed as you go.
Round 19: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 20: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 21: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 22: sc in each stitch around (36)
Round 23: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Round 24: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)
Rounds 25-31: sc in each stitch around (48)(48)(48)(48)(48)(48)(48)
Round 32: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (42)
Round 33: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
Round 34: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
Round 35: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Round 36: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Round 37: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
*At this point, sometimes I do another round of 12 sc around and then pull tight and sew to close and sometimes I do the next round below and then sew closed. For me, it depends on the yarn that I am using. I don’t like to see holes where I am decreasing to close and often if you do another round of 12 sc around and then pull tight and sew you can eliminate this.
Round 38: (inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (6) *leave a tail to sew closed.
Feet/Legs (make two):
Chain 2. Sc 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Rounds 4-8: sc in each stitch around (18)(18)(18)(18)(18)
Stuff foot lightly. I only stuffed the foot and not the leg.
Round 9: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
Round 10: sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 11: (inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (6)
Rounds 12-21: sc in each stitch around and finish off with a tail to sew onto the body. I sewed the legs in the open position between rounds 33-35, but feel free to adjust this to your liking.
Arms (make two):
Chain 2. Sc 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Rounds 3-6: sc in each stitch around (12)(12)(12)(12)
Stuff hand lightly or leave empty. I didn’t stuff the “hands” at all on some of my versions.
Round 7: (inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (6)
Rounds 8-16: sc in each stitch around.
Fold in half to close the top and sc or hdc 2-3 across the top to close and finish off with a tail to sew onto the body.
Ears (make 2): These are worked in rows and not rounds.
Chain 31 *if you prefer to shorten your ears and not have them as long, just chain less. The number here doesn’t matter for the pattern below.
Hdc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain (30)
Ch 1 and turn (the chain 1 is not a stitch)
Hdc down chain again. (30) You will be working in the row end now. Ch 1
Work 5dc in the space between the rows – this will be the space between rows 1 and 2.
Turn now to work on opposite side of the chain (the unworked side)
Hdc in each chain.
Ch 1 and turn.
Hdc in each stitch until you get to the 5dc shell at the tip of the ear. Make 2dc in each of the dc and then work hdc in each of the rest of the stitches on the other side.
Ch 1 and turn.
Work hdc all the way around the ear on both sides and around curve. You can fold flat and crochet closed or finish with tail to sew the top in half and then sew to head. I sewed the ears in my examples between rounds 4-5.
I used my green clover pom-pom maker to make a pom-pom tail. Sew to body.
If you enjoyed this bunny, you may also enjoy these made with Caron Cakes Latte Cakes
