Who doesn’t love a big crochet dog?
Back when I was designing some of my first crochet patterns, I usually wrote them in Advanced Chart Form. Barley the Beagle was one of my first patterns written this way, but as I was making him, I thought he would make such a great “big red dog” if you know what I mean. That big guy will remain nameless, but if you have a little that loves that popular character make them up a cute friend with my newly revised BEGINNER FRIENDLY VERSION!! You can also use this written out pattern to make any other dog including Barley the Beagle.
Before we get to it, I know a lot of people that love to support the designers with a small purchase to “keep them in business” and if that is you, you will find this 9-page PDF over in my ETSY SHOP RIGHT HERE.
My PAID PDF files usually contain more photos and extra bit of information to help with my patterns.
First, the boring bits:
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from these patterns, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern, please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2022. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Most all of my patterns are worked in the CONTINUOUS Round: I do not join and chain, but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place. I will always note if this is not the case.
You can assume that I have used my G/4mm for all of these patterns unless it is stated otherwise for a part.
Most of my toy patterns are made with 4-ply worsted weight yarn scraps like Red Heart Super Saver, Caron One Pound and Impeccable Yarn. I will note any differences.
Pattern Note: If I write, “sc 3” it means single crochet in the next 3 stitches – whereas “3sc” means to make 3 single crochet in one stitch.
Pattern Note: (sc, 2sc) repeat around – this is read as you make a single crochet in the next stitch and then 2 sc in the next stitch and repeat this sequence around the entire round.
Another example, (sc 2, inv dec) repeat around. This is read as you make a single crochet in the next two stitches and then you do an invisible decrease and then you repeat this sequence all the way around.
More complicated example: sc 12, (inc, sc) 6, sc 6 – This is read as you do 12 single crochet, then you do an increase sc, then single crochet, but what is in parenthesis gets done as many times as the number after says – so, you would do increase sc then sc 6 times total and then do the single crochet 6.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: ch
Stitch: st
Single Crochet: sc
Inc Sc or Inc or 2sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Inv dec: invisible decrease or decrease (I use invisible decrease in amigurumi and it is one of the best things I have ever learned for amigurumi. If you are unsure how to do this, there are many great online/video tutorials.)
hdc: half double crochet
hdc inc or inc hdc: increase hdc
Decrease: Dec or Sc2tog
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
Dc: double crochet
Tr: treble crochet
I have a new way for you to support my FREE PATTERNS!! I know many or most of you love supporting us makers – the truth is that is takes a long time to create a pattern and then write it and then edit it and get it proofed and tested – and then publish it – then you have to link it everywhere – it’s a lot of work, but us makers do what we do to share our love with you. And, if you have followed my blog, you may know that I do not run ads on my blog, so all my support comes from PDF purchases. Some of you don’t need to purchase the PDF of my patterns, but still want to say a quick Thank you – so, you can now support my blog and my work.
Materials:
Yarn: Red Heart Soft in Really Red. Each 5 oz ball is 256yds/234m. You will need two balls to finish this pattern. You will also need a small scrap of pink for the tongue, black for the nose/mouth and some white to go behind the eye. My example with this yarn ended up about 14”
Hook: Size G/4mm for everything but the ears. For the ears, I used my H/5mm hook.
Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. The eyes that I have used are 24mm.
Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
I start my work with a chain 2 and then sc in second chain from hook, but you can also start with a magic ring if you prefer that start.
TIP: I crochet over the tail from the starting chain and crochet my first two rounds around and over the starting tail. If you pull this tail tight after round 2 it will cinch up your hole in the center.
If you prefer to sew pieces on as you go, make the tongue and nose FIRST because they get sewed on after the first rounds are worked. If you prefer to sew on extras after you are done, skip on down to the start of the head.
TONGUE with Pink:
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Rounds 4-5: sc in each stitch around (18)(18)
Round 6: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12) – when done, slip stitch in next stitch and finish off with a tail for sewing.
NOSE with black: Follow instructions for nose above through Round 4. (6, 12, 18, 18) and then finish off just like nose above with a tail to sew. You may want to leave a long tail to also embroider mouth lines after you sew the nose.
This pattern starts with nose:
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: sc in each stitch around (24)
Round 6: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 7: sc in each stitch around (30)
Round 8: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 9: (Make a hole to sew in the tongue) Ch 4, skip 4, and then sc in the next 32 stitches.
Round 10: sc in each stitch and chain around (36)
Round 11: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Rounds 12-16: sc in each stitch around (42)(42)(42)(42)(42)
You can stop here if you like and sew in your tongue and sew on your nose.
I waited to sew on my nose until the head was stuffed for proper placement.
Round 17: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
Rounds 18-20: sc in each stitch around (36)(36)(36)
Round 21: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Round 22: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)
Round 23: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (54)
Round 24: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (60)
Round 25: (1 sc in next 9 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (66)
Round 26: (1 sc in next 10 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (72)
Rounds 27-31: sc in each stitch around (72)(72)(72)(72)(72)
**insert safety eyes if you are using them between rounds 24-25. You will see from my photos that I have a white circle under my safety eye. This is simply a white crochet circle. You can follow the starting pattern above – 6, 12, 18 – etc to crochet a circle that fits just larger than the eye you are using. The number of rounds you do will depend on the yarn you have chosen. I did just two rounds. BUT, if you are using safety eyes with short posts, this method may not work for you to go through both layers of crochet. You can also cut white felt or fabric. You can also insert your safety eye into just the white crochet circle and then sew the circle onto the head and not go through both layers. Leave a long tail on the white crochet part to sew down to head.
Round 32: (1 sc in next 10 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (66)
Round 33: (1 sc in next 9 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (60)
Round 34: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (54)
Rounds 35-37: sc in each stitch around (54)(54)(54)
Stuff and continue to stuff as needed.
Round 38: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (48)
Round 39: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (42)
Round 40: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
Round 41: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
Round 43: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Make sure to reach in and push that stuffing outward and stuff well.
Round 44: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Round 45: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
Round 46: (inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (6) – leave a tail and sew shut, but make sure you have plenty of stuffing in the back of the head.
This is my favorite part: I finish the head and sit it next to me so I can look at it while I finish <3
Body: I used the same color for my entire dog, but if you are using different colors, I feel that you need to use the same color from back of head as you do for the upper body/neck to make your sewing blend in and be invisible. It will require good sewing for this head because it is large. You do not want to do all this work and then have visible sewing stitches. The body starts from the bottom and you leave an opening at top for the neck. You want to pin your head in place and make sure to stuff the neck VERY well before final stitches to support the head. This large head needs lots of support. It is possible to have a body and head color different – just make the last few rows of body (neck) the same color as the head. You can sew this head in multiple positions, so play around with placement to get it like you want.
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 6: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 7: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Round 8: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)
Round 9: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (54)
Round 10: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (60)
Round 11: (1 sc in next 9 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (66)
Round 12:sc in each stitch around (66)
Round 13: (1 sc in next 9 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (60)
Rounds 14-15:sc in each stitch around (60)(60)
Round 16: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (54)
Rounds 17-18:sc in each stitch around (54)(54)
Round 19: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (48)
Rounds 20-21:sc in each stitch around (48)(48)
Round 22: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (42)
Rounds 23-34:sc in each stitch around (42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)(42)
Round 35: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
Rounds 36-41:sc in each stitch around (36)(36)(36)(36)(36)(36)
Stuff and continue to stuff as you work.
Round 42: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
Round 43: sc in each stitch around (30)
Round 44: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Round 45: sc in each stitch around (24) – finish off your yarn but leave a very long tail to sew head onto the body. Stuff the body and neck area well.
Ears (make 2):
I bumped up to my size H/5mm hook for the ears. I find that if you use your smaller hook, sometimes they don’t lay as nice and are more “stiff.” I also like to take pieces like this that I want a softer “drape” to my iron and steam them to soften and relax the yarn. If you are new to this idea, you may want to read and practice steam blocking first.
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 6: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Rounds 7-11: sc in each stitch around (36)(36)(36)(36)(36)
Round 12: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
Rounds 13-22: sc in each stitch around (30)(30)(30)(30)(30)(30)(30)(30)(30)(30)
Round 23: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Rounds 24-31: sc in each stitch around (24)(24)(24)(24)(24)(24)(24)(24)
Round 32: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Round 33: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
Fold flat and hdc across the top of the ears to close. You should have 6 hdc. Finish off with a tail to sew.
Feet/Legs (make 4):
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Rounds 5-14: sc in each stitch around (24) (24) (24) (24) (24) (24) (24) (24) (24) (24)
Round 15: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Rounds 16-34: sc in each stitch around (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18) (18)
Finish off with a tail to sew. I sew my bottom legs in the open position and the top arms in the closed position. I also usually just stuff them halfway and leave the tops unstuffed. With the bottom legs in the open position, it is very important to pin them in place and make sure you like the position and that they are even. You can see in my photos how I placed the legs/arms, but feel free to adjust them.
Tail: Chain 2. Single crochet 4 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail. **some people – especially those new to amigurumi – find that working 4 sc and then moving onto the next round difficult. If you are struggling with this, just do 6sc like the above rounds. It is only going to make the tail less pointed at the end.
Round 2: sc in each stitch around (4)
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (6)
Round 4: sc in each stitch around (6)
Round 5: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (9)
Rounds 6-8: sc in each stitch around (9)(9)(9) *stuff lightly
Round 9: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (12)
Rounds 10-26: sc in each stitch around (12) (12) (12) (12) (12) (12) (12) (12) (12) (12) (12) (12) (12) (12) (12) (12) (12)
Round 27: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18) – finish off with a tail to sew onto the body
“Eyelid” – you might see in the photos that I have softened the eye by making an eyelid. This is a simple oval shape that is made by making a chain and then single crocheting around the chain with 3sc on each end. For example: chain 5. In the 2nd chain from the hook sc. Sc down the chain until you get to the last stitch and make 3sc in the last stitch. On the opposite side of the chain, sc in each chain and then make 2 more sc where you first started so that you have 3sc in that end.
For round 2, you would place 1 sc in each sc, but in the middle sc of the 3sc set you will do 3sc to keep the oval shape. Repeat this method around until you have the size you need or increase your starting chain.
In my example, I did start with a chain 5. Leave a tail to sew across the very top of the eye.
Thank you for choosing my pattern. XOXO, Kristi at The Burgundy Basket
