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Fans of my Scraptastic patterns and series will hopefully LOVE this project. These fun Darn Good Yarn hanks were in my stash for so long. I kept looking at them thinking they would be beautiful together, but as life goes some things do take a little while to make happen.
If you are new and missed my Scraptastic Summer Series hop on over and check it out!!!
Okay, here are the boring bits:
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then or a visit to any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you.
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
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Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2023. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
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Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply.
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Double Crochet: DC
Inc Sc or Inc or 2sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated.
MATERIALS: This pattern is written as a stash busting project. I had this yarn in my stash and this round bolster pillow, but this pattern will work with just about ANY yarn. The MAIN THING you want to do is try to keep the weight of yarn you are holding throughout the project somewhat consistent if you are using scraps/different weights of yarn for this project. You may need to adjust your hook size to the yarn size you are holding.
I have used Darn Good Yarn Motley Handtied Worsted Weight yarn (210 yards per hank) and Darn Good Yarn Waves of Cotton Yarn in Mermaid Scales. The Mermaid Scales yarn is a #2 yarn, so I held two strands of it with one strand of the Motley and used my size I/5.5mm hook. I did end up using almost all of the two Motley balls so that is almost 420 yards (x3 because I was holding 3 strands).
Hook Size: I have used my size I/5.5 mm hook with the weight of yarn that I was holding, but you may need to change this based upon the weight of yarn you are using and your gauge. You want your stitches to be firm enough to have little to no gaps (especially if stuffing and not using a pillow form), but not so dense/tight like a rug that your pillow will be super stiff.
Most all of my patterns are worked in the CONTINUOUS Round: I do not join and chain but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place. I will always note if this is not the case.
THIS PROJECT IS MADE IN TWO PIECES.
I chose to make it this way for a few reasons. First, I wanted the “lacy” part to be off center. Second, I wanted the cover to come off for washing. Third, it just seemed the best way to make sure the two ends were both beautiful instead of having a decrease round. Decrease rounds just are never as beautiful as the increase round in my opinion.
To make sure the SECOND PIECE fits UNDER the first piece, I ended my INCREASE ROUND one ROUND EARLIER than I made it on the first longer section.
See how I worked the two pieces? There is a long section and then an “end cap.”
I worked in the round until my circle was JUST SMALLER THAN THE ROUND END OF MY PILLOW. I have photographed this so you can see how I “measure” it, but in the photo it does appear LARGER than the circle. I took my photo like this, or you would not be able to see the crochet work. The main reason to keep your circle just SMALLER than the pillow is because as you work the length your circle will stretch just slightly.
Make 2:
You can make your pieces like I have, or you can make two even pieces that meet in the middle.
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
You see how working increases in this manner starts to slowly give you a hexagon shape? You can counter this by making a few extra sc along the way. You can make a few (1-3) after each round or you can just even it out as you go after a few rounds. For my bolster pillow I ended up doing a few extra stitches after 3-4 rounds.
Round 6: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 7: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Round 8: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)
Round 9: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (54)
Round 10: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (60)
Round 11: (1 sc in next 9 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (66) ***if you read the section above this is where MY SECOND PIECE ENDED the increase rounds. This is the short piece that tucks under the long piece.
Round 12: (1 sc in next 10 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (72) ***this is where my FIRST circle was the right size to STOP INCREASING BUT your pillow may be larger, so the next rounds are for you IN CASE YOU NEED THEM. This is where I stopped increasing for my long piece.
Round 13: (1 sc in next 11 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (78)
Round 14: (1 sc in next 12 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (84)
Round 15: (1 sc in next 13 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (90)
RUFFLED EDGE:
The ruffled edge was created by doing a chain 3 and skipping every other stitch on the long section after you reach the length that you desire. So, (chain 3, skip 1, sc in the next) and repeat around.
On the next round do (sc, dc, sc) in each chain 3 space. When finished leave a length of yarn to join and sew closed. You see how the chain 3 space makes a hole? This is where you can add a tie if you like.
You can see in this photo above that I made a “long piece” and a “short” piece that tucks under the long section.
Make sure to make your shorter section long enough that you can’t see it once your pillow cover is finished.
I chose to crochet the two pieces together to make sure they stayed together. You can also just sew a few stitches together if you like. If you crochet them together you can do this before finishing off the shorter section. Just line up the pieces to see where they meet.
The last step for me was to make a chain to weave in and out of the holes made from the chain 3 spaces to act as a tie to keep the cover together.
After making the chain and weaving it in and out I sewed on a wooden button that I had, but you can also use beads or pompoms or whatever else you can think of.
Just cinch up your tie a little bit to secure the pillow cover.
Now, don’t you want to make one in every color?
Such a fun and easy project.
Happy Crocheting and as always – thank you for following me.
Catch up with me over on Instragram @theburgundybasket
