These patterns – this pair – it is honestly one of my favorite things I have ever made!! How can these guys not make you smile? A few weeks ago, I was thinking about what I wanted to do for Fall and this kept creeping into my mind!! They turned out so much better than I could even make in my head. I hope you love them as much as I do.
Meet Flora and Floyd!! They are big and not scary at all! She is 24″ and he is 23″ – they are full of fall fun and fab!!
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This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
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Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Materials:
–Hook: I’ve used a H/5mm hook for this pattern, but for this #4 worsted weight yarn, I usually use a G/4mm hook. If you want tighter stitches and smaller dolls, please go down a size on your hook. My examples are 23” and 24” – Flora is a little taller.
Yarns: I’ve used quite a bit of yarns for these dolls. This is a great scrap yarn project! Use what you have. Scarecrows don’t usually match =) Here are some of the yarns that I used:
Caron One Pound in Fisherman (I believe this is no longer available – this was an old stash skein I had). It is a creamy color. I used this for the hands and heads.
Red Heart With Love in Cornsilk is the “straw.”
Red Heart Super Saver in Spa Blue is what I used for both sets of pants/jeans/overalls.
Scraps of brown and black for shoes.
Both shirts are made from Patons Classic Wool in Rosewood and Palais.
The hats are a bulky #6 yarn – the orange is Big Twist Natural Blend in Tangerine and the brown is Buttercream Alpaca in Brown.
I have also used some bits of denim for patches, scraps of pinks, beige, smoked plum, and black for the faces.
–Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face.
The eyes I have used are Premium Translucent by Suncatcher Craft Eyes 20mm.
–Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
I start my work with a chain 2 and then sc in second chain from hook, but you can also start with a magic ring if you prefer that start.
This pattern starts with feet/legs and then works up the body. After both legs are made, they are joined and the body is continued. There is no sewing on this part. After the body is worked, the pattern goes right into making the head – again, no sewing – you will only be sewing on the arms.
***If you want your Scarecrows to be able to sit easier you may want to finish off each leg and sew them more forward on the body. If you choose to do this simply start the body in the normal amigurumi way with 6, 12, 18, 24 and 30 stitches on rounds 1-5 and then continue with the count of 36 as the pattern has from the point of joining the legs.
Feet/Legs (make two):
You will finish off the first leg, but not the second. You are going to be crocheting around both legs after you are done with the second to join them together.
Start stuffing the feet as you work up the legs. I stuffed the feet well and the lower legs good, but the upper legs are left just a little loose so that mine could sit if I wanted them to. If you know you are not going to have yours sit just stuff good like the leg. Don’t overstuff or your stitches will expand and the stuffing will show.
Start with the color for your shoes/boots.
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Rounds 6-15: sc in each stitch around (30) (30) (30) (30) (30) (30) (30) (30) (30) (30)
*on the last stitch add your jeans/pants color. Stuff as you go.
Round 16: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Round 17: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Rounds 18-42 (25 rows or 450 stitches if you want to do my calculator method): sc in each stitch around
Body: Start the body after both legs are finished. That will be round 43.
First thing: check between your scarecrow legs to see if you have any gap where you crocheted them together and if so, you want to just take a few stitches with your needle to sew that closed and hide your end inside the body.
Round 43: Hold both legs together (see photos) – you will sc 9 around the second leg and then sc in the first leg to join them. Sc 18 around the 1st leg and then sc 9 around the back of the second leg – you will have 36 stitches joining both legs together.
The pattern below picks up at the next round – round 44 of the body:
Round 44: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Rounds 45-46: sc in each stitch around (42)(42)
Round 47: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)
Rounds 48-49: sc in each stitch around (48)(48)
Round 50: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (54)
Before starting round 51: You will be doing a color change in these next rounds. Change color by adding your new color on the last part of the stitch on your old color. If you are unsure how to change color in Amigurumi to get a good result there are dozens of great youtube videos to help.
Continue to stuff as you go.
For the BOY SCARECROW: change color to shirt color after round 51.
For the GIRL SCARECROW: change color after you complete round 60 to the shirt color.
***If you are making overalls like the boy scarecrow doll is wearing, you want to do the FIRST ROUND OF THE SHIRT COLOR IN THE BACK LOOPS ONLY (BLO). This is so that you can go back and join the front of the overalls in the empty front loops.
Rounds 51-60: sc in each stitch around (54)(54)(54)(54)(54)(54)(54)(54)(54)(54)
Round 61: for the GIRL SCARECROW work this round in the BLO. This is the first round of shirt color for the girl. For the boy doll, this is a normal round already in the shirt color.
Sc in each stitch around (54)
Round 62: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (48)
Round 63: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (42)
Round 64: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
Rounds 65-70: sc in each stitch around (36) (36) (36) (36) (36) (36)
Round 71: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
Rounds 72-75: sc in each stitch around (30) (30) (30) (30)
Round 76: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Round 77: sc in each stitch around and on the last stitch change color to the neck/head color.
At this point on my examples, I stopped and did the “hay” on feet and bottom cuff of the pants. It will be easier to do it now before the head gets in the way so you can turn them upside down.
The hay on feet is just some small pieces of the yellow yarn looped through the stitches in the top of the shoe color row. You want to work in the top row of your shoe color because the bottom cuff of the pants will be in the first row of the pants color. See photos below.
You can see below in the first photo that I am pulling the hay yarn into the upper part of the shoe and the blue for the bottom of jeans/pants gets pulled up between the stitches on the first round of the pants color. For the bottom of the pants, you are going to work those stitches just like a post stitch and work around the crochet stitch. I turned the body upside down and worked around each stitch for one round of double crochet like this: (dc, 2dc) * You will work one double crochet around the first stitch and then 2 double crochet around the next stitch and then repeat. This will help the bottom of the pants “flare” out. Repeat all around and tie off ends and use your needle to pull through and hide inside.
Now, continue with the HEAD:
For ease of working, I am going to reset the rounds back to round 1. At the end of round 77 above, the shirt color ended. You will now be working in the head/neck color.
Round 1: sc in each stitch around (24)
Round 2: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Round 3: sc in each stitch around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 6: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 7: sc in each stitch around (36)
Round 8: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Rounds 9-11: sc in each stitch around (42)(42)(42)
Stuff firm so your head will get good support. I had no trouble with these heads since the neck was wide and short and you should not either as long as they are stuffed FIRM.
Round 12: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
Rounds 13-14: sc in each stitch around (36)(36)
Round 15: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Rounds 16-18: sc in each stitch around (42)(42)(42)
*I stopped here to do all my face parts and pop in my eyes. You can see in these photos more of my face. The eyes are between rounds 13-14 with 6 holes between them. Have fun with this part. Scarecrows are random and don’t always match.
Round 19: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
Round 20: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
Round 21: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Round 22: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Round 23: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
Round 24: (inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (6)
Finish with tail and make sure the very top of head is fully stuffed good and sew shut.
FACES:
The girl has a simple embroidered nose and mouth. I have used pink and just embroidered a triangle, mouth shape and eyelashes. I gave her some blush as well.
My boy face has a big triangle crochet nose. It is simply worked in rows with a chain 1 and turn at the end like this:
Chain 2. Sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. Chain 1 and turn.
Make 2 sc in the sc. Chain 1 and turn. (2)
Make 1 sc in the first sc, make 2 sc in the last sc. Chain 1 and turn. (3)
Make 1 sc in the first 2 sc, make 2 sc in the last sc. Chain 1 and turn. (4)
Make 1 sc in the first 3 sc, make 2 sc in the last sc. Chain 1 and turn. (5)
Make 1 sc in the first 4 sc, make 2 sc in the last sc. Chain 1 and turn. (6)
Make 1 sc in the first 5 sc, make 2 sc in the last sc. Chain 1 and turn. (7)
Finish off with a tail to sew. You might find this is too big for you and if so- just do less rounds.
Arms (make two):
Start with your skin color – or whatever color you want the hands to be.
After you are done make your “hay” around the bottom just like you did for the feet.
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Rounds 4-5: sc in each stitch around (18)(18)
Round 6: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12) change to shirt color. I stuffed only the hand on the arms.
Rounds 7-31 (25 rows): sc in each stitch around
(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)(12)
(12)(12) *FO but leave long tail to sew. Sew on the sides of the body. I sewed my arms in the flat position at the shoulder.
Ha! Isn’t he handsome?
At this point I added some “hay” hair around just the front part of the face because the hats cover everything. I also knew that I was gluing/sewing my hats down to the head so I only did a few strands of hair. I did do more and longer pieces for the girl scarecrow.
Add some around the neck too. Trim as desired.
If you are making overalls, you want to evenly mark your starting and stopping stitches in the front of the pants. You will be working the first row of the overalls in the open front loop only (FLO) from your pants.
See below photo on how I marked where I was starting and stopping. I have the photo circled where I placed a marker on each side.
I had 19 stitches marked on the front and 12 stitches on the back. I centered them.
Simply single crochet across and chain 1 and turn and repeat until they get to the length you want. When I was about half way from being done I decided to do a single crochet decrease on each side to make them narrow at the top. I did a few decrease rows up top.
For the back I Just worked straight up in half double crochet.
The straps are just a simple chain with one row of single crochet. Make these the length you need and sew on.
Before I sewed the straps down, I sewed a pocket to the front. I also dabbed just a little fabric glue (I only trust and use Beacon Fabri-tac to the front of my scarecrow and pressed the front of the overalls down so they would not gap. I sewed them down to the body all the way around.
The girl scarecrow is so much fun! I embellished her pants and gave her a rope belt and some fun buttons on her sweater. I used the same yarn for her belt that I used for his hat and just sewed it down like belt loops with the blue yarn. I used my fabritac glue to position her patches before sewing. Her hay “necklace” is just several loops tied into a bow. (THERE ARE LOTS MORE PHOTOS IN MY PAID PATTERN HERE ON ETSY)
Hats:
Hers: Yarn is noted up top in my materials section. I used my 9mm size crochet hook and started in single crochet. The last two rounds are half double crochet.
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Rounds 6-7: sc in each stitch around (30)(30)
Round 9 FLO: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 10: hdc around in each stitch around (36)
Round 11: (1 hdc in next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
His: I also used my 9mm size crochet hook for his hat. Yarn is above in my material section.
If I write 2sc that means you make 2 single crochet in the same next stitch, but sc 2 means you make one single crochet in each of the next two stitches.
Chain 2 and make 5 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. *I work in continuous rounds as mentioned above and do not join or chain up one, so at the end of each round the next round starts in the first stitch of the round before.
Round 2: sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc (7)
Round 3: sc, sc, 2sc, sc, sc, 2sc, sc (9)
Round 4: (sc, 2sc) 12
Round 5: (sc 3, 2sc) 15
Round 6: (sc 2, 2sc) 20
Round 7: (sc 3, 2sc) 25
Round 8: (sc 4, 2sc) 30
Rounds 9-13: single crochet 30 around
On my last round, I did a reverse single crochet around (30). Finish and sew in end.
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