This pattern was so much fun to make! I have been wanting to use Caron Big Cakes to make up a fun scarf pattern for a while now and the Christmas Holidays was the perfect time to get this one finalized!!
I just love how this turned out! Follow me to get notifications each time I make a new blog post for more free blog patterns. You can also find me over on IG @theburgundybasket
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Cake Pop Color Scarf
A Burgundy Basket Pattern
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern, please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2021. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply.
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc or Inc or 2sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Decrease: Dec or Sc2tog
Invisible Single Crochet 3 Together: inv3sctog
Double Crochet: DC
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
Okay, first, let’s talk Caron Big Cakes. I LOVE Caron Big Cakes. It is one of my favorite choices for so many projects and comes in so many fun colors. Some are seasonal and only carried at certain locations from what I gather. It is a Medium weight #4 yarn that is 100% acrylic. I love the feeling of the Caron Cake Big Cakes. It isn’t fuzzy and almost reminds me of a cotton. The large cakes are 10.5oz/300g/603yds/531m. I will post each color that I used below.
You will probably find that each cake has 11-13 color changes. I even had one that had 14, but it was pieced in the middle – that is my only complaint about this yarn. Sometimes you will get a cake that has been pieced together somewhere in the center and it makes one of the color changes either shorter or longer than usual. For example, when I used my Blue Hawaiian Cake all seemed normal at the start. I had 12 color changes and a very small ball that I cut from the start – then I had a break and tie in the middle in my Green Cable stitch section that made that section very short, and I wasn’t able to fully complete my pattern sequence. This might happen to you, but the beauty about a cake yarn and lots of stitch sections is that it is very forgiving. You can choose to pull back that colorway and rework that section if it happens to you to make your stitch pattern more symmetrical, but I left mine and I don’t think it is noticeable unless you really study each section row by row. I will insert a photo at the end to show you what I mean. But, at the end of that scarf, I still had a big ball in the 12th colorway leftover, so I could have added a whole other section. Sometimes you just won’t be able to tell unless you’re willing to pull apart your whole cake first.
That being said: if you are a crocheter that must have an exact amount per row and no color changes in the middle of your work or just are not that flexible when it comes to a pattern, THIS PATTERN MAY NOT BE FOR YOU. I like a piece that is unique, and each cake will make a truly unique scarf. I will guide you through each section and offer advice for modifications.
I have also given the color change between each section its own name. You will insert the “color change row” between each stitch section and color change. Then at the end you can add my fun little twist if you want the “pop.”
To begin, count your colorways. This cake above has eleven. It has a nice section of teal to start and ends with only the smallest amount of yellow – so, for this scarf it would begin and end in the teal. *I start my work in the middle of these big cakes.
The next step is to pull out the very middle of your cake:
You can see in these two cakes above that I’ve pulled the first color out to make sure that it is a full – or close to full – colorway before I begin. This might be hard to tell, but if you have a nice big ball of yarn, it should work just fine. For the cake on the left, I would start with the brown and end with the brown and have a small ball of the outer red left. For the cake on the right, this tiny bit of blue should be cut off. If you are able to count the colors in this photo, you will see that this cake will be just like the Blue Hawaiian that I talked about earlier. It has 13 colors, but to get the colors to make on each end, I would start with the white fleck and end with the white fleck and have a pretty good-sized ball of tan leftover.
This is all the yarn that I had left from all 5 cakes so each scarf will use almost the entire cake.
IDEA: Use all of these leftover balls to make a fun beanie.
MY FINISHED EXAMPLES ARE BETWEEN 70-80”
Here are the colors that I have used and the resulting scarves in the same order.
Blueberry Scone
Cranberry Crisp
Shadowberry
Blue Hawaiian
Plum Pudding
So, let’s get started.
For this scarf pattern, I have chosen my size J/6mm crochet hook.
Pattern Writing NOTE: if I write sc 2 it would mean to make 1 sc in the next two stitches, but if I write 2sc it means to make 2sc in the SAME next stitch (a sc increase).
IMPORTANT GAUGE NOTE: Every crocheter might have a different gauge/tension. I have worked 5 examples for this pattern and noted any variances in the sections below. If your gauge is far different from mine, your sections will not work out the same. For this reason, I highly encourage you to take a moment to do this gauge check.
Chain 11. Hdc 10 across the chain. Do 8 rows of hdc. Your square should be around 3” square. If not adjust your hook to reach the appropriate gauge.
I have done a video tutorial to help with all the parts that I thought might be most difficult. You can find it on my YouTube channel for free by taking this link:
Section 1:
You will chain 1 and turn after each row and the chain 1 does NOT count as a stitch.
Chain 2 and make 3sc in the 2nd chain from the hook.
Row 2: sc, 2sc, sc
Row 3: sc, 2sc, sc 2
Row 4: sc, 2sc, sc 3
Row 5: sc, 2sc, sc 4 *you are probably getting the hang of this section now.
Row 6: sc, 2sc, sc 1 in each stitch to the end.
Repeat row 6 until you have 34 stitches across.
After you have 34 stitches in your row, work in rows with NO increases until you are just about to the next color. My cakes gave me 5-6 extra rows with 34 until I needed to do the color change row.
FROM HERE ON OUT UNTIL YOU GET TO SECTION 11 YOU WILL
MAINTAIN 34 STITCHES IN EACH ROW.
COLOR CHANGE ROW: Chain 3 to start. This IS YOUR FIRST STITCH. Make a treble crochet in each stitch across the row. This is the same for the entire scarf. Use this color change row throughout. (some people use a chain 4 to start trebles, but I do not. If you prefer this way please do how you prefer.)
NOTE: The chain 3 is the first treble stitch. Make sure when you are working the next row that you don’t miss the top of the chain 3 when you make your stitch.
There are two things going on in this pattern at the same time:
- You have a color change in each section.
- You have a stitch change in each section.
Section 2:
Section 2 also has a chain 1 and turn after each row that is NOT A STITCH. Section 2 is the Popcorn row.
Special Stitch: POPCORN (pc) A popcorn stitch is 5 dc in the same stitch. Make 5 dc in the same stitch and when you are finished making the 5th double crochet, remove your hook from the stitch – insert your hook back into your first double crochet in that group and then back into the last double crochet, pull loop through both stitches. Use your finger to push the popcorn to the other side. In this pattern the other side is the RIGHT SIDE.
Row 1: hdc in each stitch (Right Side)
Row 2: hdc 5, (popcorn, hdc 4) 5x, pc, hdc 3
Row 3: hdc across. *count this across being careful not to miss the stitch that may be behind/under your popcorn.
Row 4: hdc 2, pc, (hdc 4, pc) 5x, hdc 3, pc, hdc 2
Row 5: repeat row 3
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 3
Row 8: repeat row 4
Row 9: Repeat row 3 ***variance here: At the end of this row for one of my scarves my color change was right at my last stitch. For one of my cakes, I was able to do a whole other row of popcorn stitches. So, you may need to skip Row 9 and do your color change row or continue with another row of popcorn. If you do another row of popcorn just make sure to use Row 2 so they are staggered.
*COLOR CHANGE ROW*
Note before starting this section: do you see your Right Side? This is the side where you’ve pushed your popcorns so they pop out. You need to know your right side before moving to section 3.
Section 3 starts with your Right Side facing, but if you had a variance above (like I did on my #2 scarf) do one round of hdc across the row to get you with a Right Side facing you.
Section 3:
Chain 1 and turn at the end of the rounds unless otherwise written and this does NOT count as a stitch.
Special stitch: X stitch or Crossed Double Crochet. For this stitch you skip the first stitch and double crochet in the next. Then you cross back over that stitch and make a double crochet in the missed stitch. For the next set you skip the next free stitch and double crochet in the next and then cross back over to the one you just skipped.
Row 1 should start on the RIGHT SIDE OF YOUR SCARF. If not, do a row of hdc to get to the right side.
***Please note: I had a few of my cakes where I could only get rows 1-4 of hdc (instead of 5 rows) and rows 9-12 of hdc to make it even (instead of 5 rows) before I had to do a color change row. So, if you do rows 1-5 and then the x stitch rows you may not be able to get 5 more rows of hdc.
Row 1: hdc back loop only (blo)
Row 2: hdc front loop only (flo)
Row 3: hdc blo
Row 4: hdc flo
Row 5: hdc blo *chain 2 at the end of this round. It is NOT a stitch.
Rows 6, 7 and 8 are all crossed double crochet/x stitches. You will chain 2 at the end of the round. This is NOT a stitch. Then you will do crossed double crochet stitches across the rows.
Rows 9-13 are a repeat of Rows 1-5 so that this section is symmetrical – BUT, this is one of those sections where your cake may cause you to pull back and adjust these rows to make then even on both sides of your X stitch rows. For example, if you run short you may need to pull back and only do Row 4 before you start your X stitch rows and then do only 4 rows of hdc after. **as mentioned above, my scarf #2 was a problem. My color change happened right after the x stitch rows completely flabbergasting me since I had 5 rows to go and then the color change row. Instead of pulling my work out and trying to adjust it, I went from my X stitch rows right into the color change row.
*COLOR CHANGE ROW*
Section 4 is Cables. This might be the most difficult section for you if you’ve never done cables. See the video for more of a tutorial on how to do this section if you are struggling.
The cable is worked over 5 stitches. Since there are 34 stitches across you will be working like this:
X X [cable stitches worked over the 30 middle stitches with one cable per 5 stitches so 6 cables total] X X (34)
CABLES GO ON THE RIGHT SIDE.
So, again, make sure you are on the right side (RS) as you start your cables.
Row 1: hdc across the row. Chain 1 and turn (not a stitch)
Rows 2-3/4 are hdc across the row. Chain 1 and turn (not a stitch) **you will see that you might be working hdc through row 3 or row 4. This will depend on what you need to get you to the RIGHT SIDE now to start your cable.
In Row 5, the fptr (front post treble crochet) is worked around the hdc 2 rows down. When you work around the hdc from 2 rows down it leaves the stitch that is in your current working row empty. You do not work in the stitch behind your fptr, but skip it. In Row 5 you will only be working the hdc in the actual stitches of your working row.
Row 5 (or first cable row): hdc 2, [fptr, fptr, hdc, fptr, fptr, hdc] 5 times, hdc 2
Row 6 hdc across the row
In Row 7, you are crossing the cables. So, similar to the X stitches from above, you will be skipping the first 2 fptr from Row 5 and the hdc. You will then work your fptr around the 3rd fptr from above and then the 4th and then go back and work around the 1st and 2nd fptr. So, you’ll do a fptr around the 3rd fptr from row 5, fptr around the 4th fptr from row 5, hdc in your working row (you might have to find that by looking behind your stitches), then work back in your 1st fptr from row 5 with a fptr and last is a fptr around the 2nd fptr from row 5. You repeat that sequence for each cable. The video may help with this part.
Row 7 hdc 2, [crossed fptr, crossed fptr, hdc, crossed fptr, crossed fptr, hdc] 5, hdc 2
Row 8 hdc across the row
Row 9: repeat 5/first cable row *you’ll be doing the fptr around the fptr from the row below.
Rows 9/10-11/12 *depending on what you did for rows 1-4* hdc across the rows. In an ideal “cake” world this number of rows will match what you did before you started the cable pattern.
***note: on scarf #3 my color change happened right after row 9 so instead of pulling out all my cables I just moved on to my color change row.
*COLOR CHANGE ROW*
After the cables, I wanted Section 5 to be easy so it is a simple Lemon Peel stitch.
To do the lemon peel stitch: sc, dc, sc, dc and repeat across the row. You will also sc first and end with a dc on the last stitch. Chain 1 and turn. So, on every row the sc goes into a dc and the dc goes into a sc. Simple and quick.
For my examples and colorways, it worked out that I did 14 rows in the Lemon Peel before my color change row.
*COLOR CHANGE ROW*
Section 6 is also pretty easy. I chose the Shell Stitch for this section. After your color change row, chain 3. This IS the first stitch of row 1.
The Shell Stitch is simply 5dc in the same stitch.
Row 1: after your chain 3, dc in the next stitch, skip 2, [5dc in the next, skip 4] 5x, 5dc in the next, skip 2, dc in the next and dc in the top of the turning chain. Chain 3 and turn.
Row 2: skip the first stitch since your chain 3 is your stitch, dc in the next, 2dc in the space from the row below, [sc in the middle dc of the shell from the previous row, 4dc in the next space] repeat 4 more times, sc in the middle of the next shell, 2dc in the next space, dc in the next and dc in the top of the turning chain. Chain 3 and turn.
Row 3: dc in the 2nd stitch, skip 2, 5dc in the sc from the row below and working across the row make a 5dc shell in each of the sc from the row below until the last two stitches. (You will be skipping everything except the sc from the row down.) Dc in the last stitch and in the top of the turning chain.
Rows 4-5/6-7/8-9/10-11: repeat rows 2-3
*COLOR CHANGE ROW*
Section 7 is a modified Brick Stitch. This is a very simple stitch pattern that has a great look.
Row 1: hdc in each stitch across. Chain 1 and turn.
Row 2: sc 2, sc FRONT LOOP ONLY (FLO) across to the last two stitches, sc 2 in the last two. Chain 3 and turn. This chain 3 is your next stitch.
Row 3: The chain 3 is your first stitch, dc in the 2nd, [dc 1 in the first flo of the row below (you will be working in front of your stitch and will not also crochet into the stitch behind your dc flo), dc in the next 3 of your current row, dc in the 5th flo of the row below] 6x, dc in the last 2dc.
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5 is worked similar to Row 3, but you are going to be off-setting your “bricks” so they don’t line up right on top of each other.
Row 5: the chain 3 is your first stitch, dc 3, [dc flo 1 row down like above, dc 4] 6x **the dc flo will be in the middle of the set below
Rows 6-9, Rows 10-13 are repeats of Rows 2-5
Row 14 is a repeat of Row 1.
*COLOR CHANGE ROW*
Section 8 is worked using a modified Sedge Stitch. I’ve modified this just a bit since my row is one stitch too many for this stitch. *note: when a pattern is in () you work all of that in one stitch. So, below when it says, (sc, hdc, dc) those all go in one stitch. And just a note on this stitch: the (sc, hdc, dc) all will be worked in the sc from that group from the row before.
Row 1: hdc in each stitch across. Chain 1 and turn now and on each row and this is NOT a stitch.
Row 2: (hdc, dc) in the first stitch. [Skip 2, (sc, hdc, dc)] 10x, skip 1, sc in the last 2 stitches.
Row 3 sc in the 1st stitch, (hdc, dc) in the next, [Skip 2, (sc, hdc, dc)] 10x, skip 1 and sc in the last stitch.
Rows 4-5, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11 are repeats of rows 2 and 3.
Row 11: hdc in each stitch across.
*you may need to add another row of hdc if your color change isn’t about to happen.
*COLOR CHANGE ROW*
Section 9 is a simple hdc v-stitch pattern. A v-stitch is simple the stitch with a chain 1 and the same stitch again all in the same stitch. So, a hdc v-stitch is (hdc, ch1, hdc) in the same stitch. You can also have a dc v-stitch which would be (dc, ch 1, dc) in the same stitch.
After your color change row, chain 1 and turn.
Row 1: hdc, hdc, skip 1, [(hdc, ch 1, hdc) skip 2] 9x, (hdc, ch 1, hdc), skip 1, hdc, hdc. Chain 1 and turn
Row 2: hdc, hdc, hdc v-stitch in each chain 1 space of each v-stitch across the row, hdc in the last two stitches. Chain 1 and turn.
Repeat Row 2 for pattern.
I was able to get 15 rows done in this section before my color change row.
*COLOR CHANGE ROW* For the color change row here make sure you are putting a treble in each stitch and chain 1 space.
Section 10 is fairly simple and just has some fp stitches to give some texture.
Row 1: hdc in each stitch across. Chain 1 and turn.
Row 2: hdc in each stitch across. Chain 1 and turn.
If your RIGHT SIDE is NOT now facing you, do one more row of hdc to get the right side toward you.
Row 3: hdc 2, [fptr around the hdc 2 rows down, hdc in next] repeat across to the last 3 hdc. Hdc in the last 3 stitches. Chain 1 and turn.
Row 4: hdc in each stitch across. Chain 1 and turn.
This next row will be staggered with Row 3.
Row 5: hdc, [fptr around the hdc 2 rows down, hdc in next] repeat across to the last 2 hdc. Hdc in the last 2 stitches. Chain 1 and turn.
Row 6: hdc in each stitch across. Chain 1 and turn.
Rows 7-10: repeat rows 3-6
**NOTE: After row 10 on some of my examples I was ready for a color change row, but on some I needed to add one more row of hdc after Row 10 to get my color change row ready.
*COLOR CHANGE ROW*
Section 11 is THE LAST SECTION. It is, or should be, a mirror of Section 1. So, for example, on section 1 where I worked 5-6 rows evenly after the increases of 34 sc across – duplicate that.
Work as many rows in sc across as you did for section one. So, for me that was 6 rows of sc on most of my examples. I had one example where I only did 5 rows on section 1 and 11 and in my last example, I was only able to get 2 sc rows at the start so I ended with 2 sc rows before my decreases.
You will be decreasing the opposite of what you increased, so:
Sc, dec, sc across the row to the last sc. Chain 1 and turn.
Repeat this row until you have only 3 sc then:
Sc3tog and finish off with a tail to tie and weave in.
Once you finish it will be important to block this piece. I block this type of project by washing it on gentle with a gentle detergent and then laying it out flat and shaping it to dry. Each end of the scarf will form a nice “bell” shape. Try to block your scarf matching each end and each section in the middle to be a consistent width. You might need to pin a few of the middle sections.
Now, you can be done at this point OR you can make your scarf POP!
To do this pick any color that you want to contrast with your scarf and POP! It!
Here you can see my color choices for each scarf.
Tassels: The tassels in these examples are 30-40 wraps longways around my cell phone or 6”. I personally believe that all tassels should be STEAMED to flatten and drape right. I use the steam setting on my iron and hold the iron just above the tassel and steam for a few seconds at a time using my fingers to brush the tassel out. Flip and repeat. This will help the fibers on your tassel relax. Once this is finished, I tie a second piece around the tassel up top to finish the tassel and then tie onto the scarf with the tails that you used to tie the tassel together.
POP Ties: The little pop ties that are weaved in and out of the color change row in my examples were made using my size I/5.5mm hook. I just chained from 60-75 and did hdc in each chain. You can make these as long or as short as you want. Weave them over and under the stitches on the color change row and then tie them in a loose knot at the end. You can make just one or many. You can even make them functional as in this example where I have used the ties to actually tie this up to the other side.
This scarf is long enough that you can wear it in many ways.
Thank you for choosing my pattern and I would love to connect with you at The Burgundy Basket on Instagram.
Tag me with all your Cake Pop Color Scarves
#cakepopcolorscarf
Kristi
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