Good morning! I am working on my next farm series animal, the next few letters of the alphabet and am in the planning stages of my next doll – so, I thought I would share this pattern that I made maybe two years ago now. It is the second pattern I wrote for Etsy after I decided to start writing down my patterns. I just made a new puppy as a gift/custom order so I thought I would update my pattern and put it here to share. This sweet little puppy is named for my oldest daughter and is designed to use up your scraps as only small amounts of yarn are needed.
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Lolo’s full PDF can be downloaded from my ETSY HERE. It includes more tips and photos.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things.
Materials:
This uses all scraps. Small scrap balls for each part and then a main color for body, but even the main body color doesn’t require much – I’d estimate half a skein.
This is a great scrap yarn project! You only need small amounts of yarn, so feel free to use leftover yarn and scrap yarn balls. The amounts will vary depending on your yarn and hook size, but really, small amounts are fine.
-Yarn and Hook: I use a G and an H hook and various small balls of leftover 4-ply worsted weight yarn. Size of the final puppy will vary depending on your yarn and hook. You do want to use a small enough hook/yarn that you don’t get big holes in your work. You want nice tight stitches to keep in your stuffing.
-Hook : I used a G hook for most of this pattern, but I did switch to my H/I for the Ears and Tail since they don’t have to be stuffed. If you don’t have these hooks yet they are a must! I was having trouble with my hands and switched to these – they make such a big difference for amigurumi. Can’t afford the name brand? I have the less expensive ones in the large size and love them too! I replaced all my hooks. Do something nice for you today.
-Safety Eyes (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face.
*TIP: if you use safety eyes and want to do eyelashes, it will be much easier to do the eyelashes BEFORE you adhere the backing onto the post of the eye. If you put the backing on first you will have trouble getting your lashes close enough to the post of the eye.
This first link are the eyes I ordered for the puppy that I just did. I love them because they are large. They have a little glittery back that you pop under the clear eye and the back are nice – not flimsy. For my first puppy, I used SunCatcher eyes, but they no longer use Amazon, so I ordered this second set recently and LOVE them! They are very well made. I can’t say enough good things about them after getting some that were cheap and chipped and didn’t have good backs. I love these for my ami’s so much!
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker! – and this is a fun kit to get your started if you are new to amigurumi and it makes a great gift!
Stitches Used:
Stitches Used:
Chain: Ch
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
HDC: half-double crochet
DC: double crochet *US Terms apply
Here are the two versions I’ve made from this pattern:
TIPS: I prefer when making toys to have all my small parts made up first: arms, legs, hair pieces, etc. I prefer to sew these pieces on where appropriate as I go. I find sewing parts on before stuffing to be much easier.
So, going with the idea that I make all my small parts first so they are done to sew to the main body as I go, I will start this pattern with those, but feel free to make your body first and then make your arms and legs and sew on after stuffing if you prefer to do it that way.
USE YOUR G SIZE HOOK ON EVERYTHING EXCEPT THE EARS
Feet/Legs (make two):
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 5: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Rounds 6-7: 1 sc in each stitch around (30)(30)
Start your Decreases and stuff as you go. Stuff how it is easiest for you. I usually stuff around my 18 sc round. Stuff the feet firm, but don’t over stuff the legs. You want your puppy to be able to sit when you are finished.
Round 8: *1 sc in next two sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Rounds 9-12: Working in the spiral – 1 sc in each stitch around. (24)(24)(24)(24)
Round 13: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 14: sc in each sc around (18)
Round 15: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
Round 16: sc in each sc around (12)
If you are switching color – Change color. *tip: if you are unsure the best way to change color in stuffed animals there are many video tutorials on how to do this most effectively for amigurumi type animals.
Starting in Round 17 we are going to basically sc around in a spiral 150 single crochets! I know this is different than what you usually read in patterns, but just give it a “whirl.” Go! 150 sc up the leg. Finish off when done with a slip stitch and long length to sew leg onto body.
Repeat for second leg feeling free to change up those colors and use up those scraps! You can make all parts different or the same. It is completely up to you!
Arms (Paws I guess) (make two):
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Rounds 5-9: 1 sc in each stitch around (24)(24)(24)(24)(24)
Start your Decreases and stuff as you go. Stuff how it is easiest for you. I usually stuff around my 18 sc round. Stuff the paws firm, but don’t over stuff the arms. If you over stuff the arms they may stick out instead of flopping down.
Round 10: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Rounds 11-12: sc in each sc around (18)
Change color if you are making a patchwork dog like my example.
Round 13: *sc in the next 4 sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (15)
Rounds 14-16: sc in each sc around (15)(15)(15)
Round 17: *sc in the next 3 sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
Rounds 18-21: sc in each sc around (working in a spiral each round) (12)(12)(12)(12)
Finish off, but leave a long tail for sewing to the body.
Tail (make one):
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) **You can use an H or I hook on this.
Round 1: 5 sc in second chain from hook (5)
Round 2: 1 sc in each of first 4 sc and then 2 sc in final stitch (6)
Round 3: 1 sc in each of first 5 sc and then 2 sc in final stitch (7)
Round 4: 1 sc in each of first 6 sc and then 2 sc in final stitch (8)
Round 5: 1 sc in each of first 7 sc and then 2 sc in final stitch (9)
Round 6: 1 sc in each of first 8 sc and then 2 sc in final stitch (10)
Round 7: 1 sc in each of first 9 sc and then 2 sc in final stitch (11)
Round 8: 1 sc in each of first 10 sc and then 2 sc in final stitch (12)
Round 9: 1 sc in each of first 11sc and then 2 sc in final stitch (13)
Round 10: 1 sc in each of first 12 sc and then 2 sc in final stitch (14)
Round 11: 1 sc in each of first 13 sc and then 2 sc in final stitch (15)
Round 12: sc around (15)
*this is a modification to my first pattern. I have started doing a “cuff” kind of around my tails and some legs. To do this you will add one more Round 13: 2 sc in each stitch around. This gives you a nice area for sewing and if you do this technique for legs that are a different color from body is makes a nice “spot” – this is optional, but when parts and pieces are the same color it’s invisible and gives you a nice sewing area.
Finish off leaving a long tail to sew to the body. You can choose to stuff your tail or leave unfilled. I added a little stuffing to mine.
Ears (make 2) – USE YOUR H or I HOOK FOR THESE TO MAKE THEM BIGGER AND MORE FLOPPY – for my first dog (the brown one) I used my H hook, but for my latest dog (the light one) I used my I hook.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 hdc in second chain from hook (6)
*I work these in a continuous spiral with no joining, but what that means when working in hdc is that when you get back around to your first stitch to keep working you will have a little “jog” in your work – so, to solve this I always make my very first stitch of round 2 and single crochet. So, do one single crochet and then proceed in the pattern with hdc. When you get back around and complete round 3 you will never notice this and it will become invisible and there will be no joining seam.
Round 2: 2 hdc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1 hdc in next two hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc** repeat around (24)
Round 5: *1 hdc in next three hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc** repeat around (30)
Round 6: *1 hdc in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc** repeat around (36)
Round 7: hdc in each stitch around (36)
Start decreasing now.
Round 8: *1 hdc in next four hdc, inv dec over the next 2 hdc* repeat around (30)
Round 9: 1 hdc in each stitch around (30)
Round 10: *1 hdc in next three hdc, inv dec over the next 2 hdc* repeat around (24)
Round 11: 1 hdc in each stitch around (24)
Round 12: *hdc in next 2 hdc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 13: hdc in each hdc around (18)
Round 14: *hdc in next hdc, inv dec over next 2 hdc* repeat around (12)
Rounds 15-17: hdc around (12)(12)(12) *just like when I started round 2 with one single crochet, I usually end my hdc rounds by adding 2 sc to the end and then a slip stitch and fo. This gives you a nice smooth top to end your work. So, after the last hdc, make 2 single crochet and one slip stitch and fo like usual.
Fasten off with a long tail to sew to head.
The ears get sewed to head around row 22.
Eye Patch:
This will be made just like the rest of the rounds – start with your chain 2. But, we are going to add some Half Double crochet (Hdc) and Double Crochet (dc)
Do your 6 sc in the round just like the other parts.
Then increase to 12 sc in the round. (Just like all rounds above)
Now for this round we are going to add some HDC (Half double crochet) so, for Round 3 do this:
2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc in next stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch, 1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next, 1 sc, 2 sc in next, 1 sc, 2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc, 2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc (that gives you 18 stitches for round 3)
Round 4: 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 2 dc (double crochet) in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, 1 hdc, 1 hdc, *(2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next, 1sc in next ) repeat 4 times around (24 stitches)
You are now done. Sew all pieces down as shown in the photos or however you like best.
Body:
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 5: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 6: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 7: *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Rounds 8-10: 1 sc in each stitch around working in a spiral (42)(42)(42)
Now we are going to do some increases all in a row to make a little belly for our puppy.
Round 11: Place some sort of stitch marker in this first increase stitch. Inc Sc in next 6 sc, then sc in each of the rest of the 36 stitches. (you will be doing 2 sc in the first 6 sc and then one sc in the last 36 of round 11. When you get done you will have 6 additional stitches (48)
Rounds 12-15: 1 sc in each stitch around working in a spiral (48)(48)(48)(48)
*NOW THIS PART MAY SOUND TRICKY BUT IT ISN’T*
Remember how we did 6 inc sc on round 11 to make a pooch in the belly? You should still have your stitch marker there. Well, now we want to start our decrease stitches, but we need to decrease ABOVE the same place where we had our increases so that the belly “matches up.” I hope that make sense. You will want to do your decrease stitches in line with your increases from 5 rows above. So, line up with your stitch marker. What that meant for me, is that I had to do 7 sc stitches to get lined up to start my decrease in the right spot. If you don’t like the idea of just adding extra stitches we can take them off the back side when we get back around. So, do your extra stitches now to get lined up in line with that stitch marker and then continue.
Round 16: Dec sc 6. (your first 12 sc will become 6 sc after your decreases) Continue around the rest of the round in even sc until you have 42 stitches total for this round. ***If you had to add stitches like me to get lined up and don’t like the idea of just adding extra stitches take those initial stitches off here. So, for me I had to add 7 to line up. After doing 7 sc, I did my decreases to 6 so now I would only need to do 29 more sc to have my 42. Clear as mud? Really though don’t even worry if you had to add some stitches. One common tip in making Amigurumi is to add one extra stitch at the end of each round anyway to keep the diagonal from occurring.
Rounds 17-18: sc in each stitch around (42)(42)
Round 19: *sc in each of the next 5 sc, dec sc* repeat around (36)
Round 20: sc in each stitch around (36)
Round 21: *sc in each of the next 4 sc, dec sc* repeat around (30)
Round 22: sc in each stitch around (30)
***After this round is when I start sewing on my pieces and parts and stuffing. I prefer to sew my limbs and extras on before closing so that I can tie off and sew on the inside.
The Tail goes between rounds 9-13. I fold the body in half and sew opposite from the belly.
The legs get sewn between rounds 6-8 with a little space in between.
Round 23: *sc in each of next 3 sc, dec sc* repeat around (24)
Rounds 24-26: sc in each stitch around (24)(24)(24) – start stuffing and keep stuffing as needed
Round 25: *sc in next 2 sc, dec sc* around (18)
Round 26: sc in each sc around (18)
Round 27: *sc in next sc, dec sc* around (12)
Rounds 28-30: sc in each stitch around (12)(12)(12)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew both arms up at the top of body. I don’t sew them to the very top round (30) but just below that. Pin in place to line them up and get them the way you want.
Head:
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Rounds 5-14: sc in each sc around. (OR Spiral Crochet around for 240 single crochets.)
*you need to embroider the nose here before you finish all the way up. See photos of how I do it*
Round 15: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 16: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 17: *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Round 18: *1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (48)
Round 19: *1 sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (54)
Round 20: *1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (60)
Rounds 21-25: sc in each sc around (60(60)(60)(60)(60)
Round 26: *sc in each of the next 8 sc, dec sc* repeat around (54)
Round 27: *sc in each of the next 7 sc, dec sc* repeat around (48)
Round 28: *sc in each of the next 6 sc, dec sc* repeat around (42)
Round 29: *sc in each of the next 5 sc, dec sc* repeat around (36)
***Start stuffing***
Round 30: *sc in each of the next 4 sc, dec sc* repeat around (30)
Round 31: *sc in each of the next 3 sc, dec sc* repeat around (24)
****Keep stuffing***
Round 32: *sc in each of the next 2 sc, dec sc* repeat around (18)
Round 33: *sc in the next sc, dec sc* repeat around (12)
Make sure to have plenty of stuffing and sew up your opening closed.
Here are a few of my favorite latest things. I live far from big stores, so Amazon and my Amazon Prime are my friend. These are affiliate links.
Crochet can be tough on my left wrist and hand so I wear this when I am not working sometimes if I am feeling any pain:
In addition to my Etsy business, I run a space inside a local artisan boutique and these little pots sold out in one day after I planted them with some hens and chicks.
For my Etsy, I used to mail everything Priority mail, but the rates have gotten so high that I now send everything that I can First Class mail – that means I need cheap, cute, secure mailers and I just ordered my second set of these mailers. I love them! The plastic is nice and thick and the seal sticky. They are the perfect size.
And this bag is my absolute favorite for sorting WIPs because I can store all my project inside and grab it up as I run out the door. And, it makes a great conversation starter when others can see inside. I have sold pieces from my bag <3
