Isn’t he just the funniest? I just love him! When I first made a frog last year, it just wasn’t “right” for me. He wasn’t fat enough for sure – so, I rectified that situation. This guy is about 15″ tall and 24″ around! His belly is so fat and perfect! I think he’s the fattest amigurumi animal that I have made.
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I also write most of my patterns in a chart form with the amigurumi numbers instead of spelling out each increase and decrease. If you make a lot of amigurumi you’ll know what to do each round. My Paid for patterns also contain a FREE Cheat Sheet that help you with the increases and decreases for the numbers in my chart.
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Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
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Materials:
-Yarn: Caron One Pound in Grass Green, I Love This Yarn from Hobby Lobby in Mid Green, and a scrap of white and black. All 4-ply worsted weight yarns. You will need most of a whole skein of the One Pound Yarn. If you are only using one shade of green you will be using almost the entire One Pound Skein.
-Hook: G/4mm and H/4.5mm hooks. These are the exact hooks that I use:
Buy yourself a nice gift this year if you don’t have these. Not in your budget? This is a nice set as well that I have ordered as a gift.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. I have used 24mm eyes from GlassEyesOnline.com in a sparkly yellow.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
Stitch Glossary:
Chain: Ch
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Hdc: Half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Tr: treble crochet
Slip Stitch: sl st
FO: finish off
This pattern starts from the bottom underneath the body and then finishes up at the top of the head. The entire body/head is worked in one piece. The arms and legs are made separate and then sewed on.
Head/Body with G/4mm hook:
You want to stuff as you go. Stuff this one full! He is designed to be fat and full.
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 |
| 5 | 30 |
| 6 | 36 |
| 7 | 42 |
| 8 | 48 |
| 9 | 54 |
| 10 | 60 |
| 11 | 66 |
| 12 | 72 |
| 13 | 78 |
| 14 | 84 |
| 15-29 (15rows) | 84 |
| 30 | 78 |
| 31 | 78 |
| 32 | 72 |
| 33 | 72 |
| 34 | 66 |
| 35 | 66 |
| 36 | 60 |
| 37 | 60 |
| 38 | 54 |
| 39 | 54 |
| 40 | 48 |
| 41 | 48 |
| 42 | 42 |
| 43 | 42 |
| 44 | 36 |
| 45 | 36 |
| 46 | 30 |
| 47-49 | 30 |
| 50 | 36 |
| 51 | 42 |
| 52 | 48 |
| 53 | 54 |
| 54 | 60 |
| 55-59 | 60 |
| 60 | 54 |
| 61 | 48 |
| 62 | 42 |
| 63 | 36 |
| 64 | 30 |
| 65 | 24 |
| 66 | 18 |
| 67 | 12 |
| 68 | 12 – add more stuffing through top if needed and sew shut. |
At this point I prefer to make the head parts. This pattern is designed with a head “hat” and mouth in a different shade of green and then 2 eyes with eyelids. Feel free to use the same green if you prefer. I prefer to make and do all of these parts before sewing the arms and legs on (it helps to hold the body between my knees and stabilize while I am working without the arms and legs) – So, they are next in the pattern and the arms and legs at the end.
Head “hat” – Use your H/4.5mm for this part:
Working in the CONTINUOUS Round:
*I do not join and chain, but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place.
Chain 2.
Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (Make 1 sc in next stitch, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 6: (Make 1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 7: (Make 1 sc in next 5 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Round 8: (Make 1 sc in next 6 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)
Rounds: 9-18: You will work straight now for each row with no increases. (48) – the number of rounds for this part may need to be adjusted for you depending on your gauge and stuffing. I did 10 rounds to get to about row 52-53 of the head. (it almost reaches the neck) – add or subtract some rows if you need on these rounds – BUT, the last row is worked in the FLO and then again in the BLO so adjust for that on this round:
Round 19: Work all around the head hat in the FRONT LOOP ONLY
Round 20: sc 15, hdc 3, dc 4, tc 4, dc 4, hdc 3, sc 15 (48) – at the end of this row make a few slip stitches (this will be the very back of your head hat now) and then chain 2. For round 21 you will be going back to the open BACK LOOP stitches from Round 19.
Round 21: WORK IN THE OPEN BACK LOOP FROM ROUND 19. Make a hdc in each open back loop stitch around.
Round 22: hdc 18-19 *this number may vary for you. You will be working a mirror of the stitches from round 20 just underneath them here. So, work in hdc until you get under the first double crochet from round 20 and repeat the pattern – dc 4, tc 4, dc 4, and finish the round in hdc.
Round 20 and Round 22 should line up and be mirror images of each other. Finish off and weave in the end.
Mouth: Continue with your H hook. *this part is made in Half Double Crochet (hdc) and not Single Crochet
*I do not join and chain, but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place.
Chain 2.
Half double crochet 8 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first hdc make 2 hdc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (16) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 16 hdc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (Make 1 hdc in next stitch, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 4: (Make 1 hdc in next 2 stitches, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (32)
Round 5: (Make 1 hdc in next 3 stitches, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (40)
Round 6: (Make 1 hdc in next 4 stitches, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)
Fold in half. You are going to slip stitch the first 5 stitches closed through both layers. Slip stitch across just one layer to the last 5 stitches and then work through both layers to close the last 5 stitches.
This is now what you should have:
Eyes: Use your G Hook. Start with white.
*I do not join and chain, but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place.
Chain 2.
Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (Make 1 sc in next stitch, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Rounds 5-6: work one sc in each stitch around (24) *change to your green color on the last stitch
In Green: Rounds 7-8: sc in each stitch around (24) *pop in your safety eye if you are using them.
Round 9: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18) stuff and stuff well from here on out.
Round 10: (Make 1 sc in next stitch, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
Round 11: (inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (6) – finish off and weave in the end.
Eye Lids: with your H hook
Chain 13. Hdc in second chain from the hook and in each chain to the end (12) chain 1 and turn now and on every round.
Row 2: inc hdc, hdc 10, inc hdc (14)
Row 3: inc hdc, hdc 12, inc hdc (16)
Row 4: inc hdc, hdc 4, (dc, tr), tr 4, (tr, dc), hdc 4, inc hdc (18) – leave a long tail at the end. You will be wrapping the eyelid around the eyeball and sewing it closed and sewing it to the head so leave plenty of length of tail.
You will wrap the eyelids around the eyeball and sew them on the bottom. Place the head hat onto the head and then sew the eyes onto the head hat where you like – I put them on the front, but you can put them on top or anywhere you like. *If you choose to place them on the top you may want to make a circle for the eyelid instead to have a clean solid back. When you sew the eyes to the head hat sew through the head as well to secure.
After you get the eyes finished sew the mouth in place. The pictures below will help.
The tongue is just a chain 5 with sc. Leave a tail at end end to tie around the stitches on head in the middle of the mouth and then pull the tails through the head to hide. You can stick it in between the lips or unroll it out – fun for kids! Use black yarn to make nostrils. Sew the head hat on all around.
Feet/Legs (make two): *I’ve used my H hook for these.
Each foot has 3 toes. You will make 2 toes and finish off your yarn, but when you finish the 3rd toe you do not finish off the yarn. You will join all three toes by single crochet around them to join.
Chain 2.
Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Rounds 3-7: work one sc in each stitch around (12) Stuff.
Round 8: dec around (6)
After you have your 3rd toe done you will have this:
Hold them all next to each other.
You will single crochet 3 sc in the last toe you made, sc 3 across the middle toe, sc 3 across the first/last toe and then continue to crochet across the back of each toe.
You should have 18 sc since each toe has 6 on top. *I work over the tails on each toe and pull them tight as I go – much easier than weaving them in.
Round 2: Make a second round of 18 (one sc in each stitch around) *stuff the foot
Round 3: For the third round of the foot/leg you will dec to 12 sc – so, (dec sc, sc) around (12)
*you need to stuff as you go as needed
Rounds 4-23: After round 3 you will work straight (12 sc around) for 20 rows. *if you want shorter legs you can adjust this number)
Round 24: After you get your 40 rows done, inc back to 18sc (sc, inc sc)* around (18)
Round 25: Increase again to 24 on this round (sc, sc, inc)* around (24)
Rounds 26-45: sc in each stitch around (24)
Stuff. I left a few inches at the top of the leg lightly stuffed for sitting.
To close the leg, fold in half and crochet through both layers to close like this: sc 3, hdc 2, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 3 *finish off and leave a tail for sewing.
Hands/arms (make two):
You will work these exactly like the feet through round 23 and work an additional 10 rounds with no increases (12) – so, for the arms Rounds 4-33 (12) – finish off with a tail to sew.
Spots/Belly Circle:
I’ve made random sized spots and a big belly circle to attach to Floyd. These are up to you. Refer to my Increase/Decrease cheat sheet to increase up to the size of spot you want for each circle. For the belly patch, I’ve worked in the Back Loop Only to get the texture.
There you have it! A large, funny frog. I hope you enjoy this patter. I’d love to connect with you over on my IG @theburgundybasket #floydthefrog
