Polly and her main squeeze, Puff are the latest patterns in my Farm Series! You can checkout all my Farm Series patterns right here on my blog or purchase the PDF with hints and tips for all through my Etsy. The free blog pattern doesn’t contain all my hints/tips or photographs like my paid patterns, but it does give the basics. Polly and Puff are in my 16-page PDF on Etsy right HERE.
Polly and Puff are the 9th animals in my Farm Series. Doing these chickens was fun because I have backyard chickens! When we moved to Chesapeake, VA and were ready to build our home, one of the “musts” was land for chickens! It’s a good thing.
Did you meet Haybelly the Horse? Or Digger the Donkey? I also have Barley the Beagle and Butterbean the Bunny with a free addition to her pattern for her baby, Clover. And the three patterns before this one were the sweet Dixie the Duckling, Cocoa the Cow, and Peaches the Pig. And don’t miss Lambert the Llama – he’s my most visited pattern to date here on my blog.
You can also purchase BUNDLES of these patterns at a reduced price. I have my first four on a bundle HERE and the second four HERE and if you purchase any of these two, I will send you baby Clover for FREE if you send me a message from Etsy after your purchase.
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things.
Materials: *see note below on the type and amount of yarn I used. I have recommendations for modifications if you run out.
You will need ONE FULL SKEIN OF BERNAT PIPSQUEAK YARN 3.5oz/100g appx 101 yds/92m **I had only about 2 feet of yarn left for Polly and a tiny ball left from Puff. So, for the other yarn you choose to hold with the Bernat yarn, you will need THE SAME AMOUNT because you will be holding two strands together for the head/body.
The second strand of yarn SHOULD be any color you choose in a 4-ply worsted weight acrylic yarn like Caron One-Pound or Red Heart. I used a cream color Caron One Pound for Polly and a vintage ball of Red Heart in a reddish brown for Puff *my vintage Red Heart was a sport weight and you can maybe see that he is only a tiny bit smaller than she is. I also held a fine lace weight black shimmery yarn for Puff. I have pictures below of my yarn. So, if you want to get a multi-color rooster (because Roosters are very colorful) you may choose to do like my example and use a sport weight and then a colorful #1 or #2 yarn. More on specific materials later.
I realize that Pipsqueak is a tedious yarn to work with, but it really does make such a huge difference in your finished chickens. It is so soft and “feathery.” To make it easier, I chose to use two strands held together throughout. For Polly, I used Bernat Pipsqueak in Whitey White and for Puff I used the same yarn in Chocolate. To make it easier to see your stitches with the Pipsqueak yarn AVOID using the same color in your second yarn choice. You really will be able to see your stitches better if you use a color with your Pipsqueak that is different. In Polly, even thought I used a cream yarn as my second choice, she still appears mostly white.
So, Polly uses what is referenced above and a small amount of color for her legs, beak, wings, comb and waddles. I used Café Latte from Caron One-Pound for her legs and a scrap ball of gold for her beak. Her waddles are a sport weight red cotton. Her wings are crocheted using only the cream yarn I held throughout her body.
For Puff, I used the materials reference above. (in the photo below). Roosters are so colorful that I wanted to reflect that in my example. The first photo are the main colors held TOGETHER (all 3) for the entire head/body. I chose this scrap ball of roving yarn (second phots) for his wings and in his hackle/neck “feathers” and also in his tail feathers. I am sure that pretty much nobody will have this exact yarn – I don’t even know what it is or where I got it – but, I encourage you for his feathers, tail and neck piece to use a variegated multicolored yarn like this – roosters are very colorful.
Here are the measurements I have for my chickens:
Head to bottom: about 12” (without the top feathers)
Legs: for Polly they are 9” and for Puff about 11”
-Hooks: I have used mostly my I hook throughout since I was holding 2-3 strands. I will make any exceptions to this in the pattern – like a G for the comb/waddles and H for the feet, BUT, if you choose to use different materials please adjust your hook size accordingly. You want nice tight stitches without gaps and holes. The Bernat yarn is a #5 bulky yarn and I crochet tight – so, with the two strands, the I hook was right for me. Polly’s legs and feet are single strand so I have used my H hook. I probably should have used my G hook on those. I can see my stuffing a little in her feet, but I just grabbed that one and used it – adjust to your G if you think you need to go smaller depending on your yarn for the feet/legs.
-These are the hooks I use exclusively now. They have helped end any hand pain I had.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. These are the newest eyes I have ordered and I love them! They are extremely well made with nice backs. I have used these eyes for my chickens.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
If you are new to crochet or just want to upgrade your supplies this is a fabulous kit. I have this kit – it comes with all you see and it a great price for the quality.
Stitches Used:
Chain: Ch
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Hdc: Half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Tr: treble crochet
Double treble: dtr
FLO: Front Loop Only
BLO: Back Loop Only
Slip Stitch: sl st
FO: finish off
Special stitches:
Picot: chain 3 and then slip stitch back into either the 3rd chain or the side of the stitch where the chain 3 starts.
Shell: 5 dc
This is a simplified – a chart with the numbers – you need to have knowledge of crochet amigurumi and how to do rounds and increases to read. If you do it will be pretty straight forward.
I start my work with a chain 2 and then sc in second chain from hook, but you can also start with a magic ring if you prefer that start.
This pattern starts with the top of the head and finishes under the body.
WE ARE STARTING WITH POLLY AND PUFF WILL FOLLOW WITH NOTES ABOUT HIS PATTERN DIFFERENCE. SO, THIS FIRST PATTERN IS FOR POLLY. (THE WHITE CHICKEN)
Head/Body: see notes above in the material section for materials/hook size
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 *after you get the first few rounds done you can add the top feathers to the top of the head. These are super easy. Leave a tail of about 6” and make 7-9 chains. Slip stitch to chain farthest from the hook and repeat. I did 3 loops. FO and leave another tail and then just tie into the inside top of the head. |
| 5-14 | 24 |
| 15 | 30 |
| 16 | 30 |
| 17 | 36 *add the safety eyes. They are positioned about 2.5” from the top of the head – this is easier than trying to count rounds with Pipsqueak yarn. |
| 18 | 36 |
| 19 | 42 |
| 20 | 42 |
| 21 | 48* I stopped right about here to do the face/head. This means eyes, comb, waddles, beak etc. so that I could sew and tie everything on inside the head. Please see those parts at the end of this chart. |
| 22 | 48 |
| 23 | 54 |
| 24 | 54 |
| 25 | 60 |
| 26-32 | 60 *if you believe you might run low on your yarn maybe do a few less rows here or stop your increases above at round 24 and continue in pattern with only 54 stitches around for these rows. And if you do run out of yarn as you get to the very bottom – don’t stress. Chickens don’t have feathers “down below” anyway. Just close with your other yarn -or add pink for your “chicken butt” |
| 33 | 54 – Start stuffing and stuff as needed. **I almost always do invisible decreases, but if you are using the Pipsqueak yarn or something similar you really don’t need to worry – the fuzzy yarn hides the decrease anyway so don’t worry – just do regular decreases and save yourself the headache. |
| 34 | 48 |
| 35 | 42 |
| 36 | 36 |
| 37 | 30 |
| 38 | 24 |
| 39 | 18 |
| 40 | 12 |
| 41 | 12 – FO leaving a tail to weave opening closed and secure. |
Beak: H hook and 4-ply worsted type yarn. I’ve used gold.
You are going to make two pieces.
First piece (TOP BEAK): also worked in the rounds and increases a little different so I will note that here:
Start like the rest – chain 2 and sc in second chain from hook and then make 3 more sc for a total of 4.
Round 2: 4sc
Round 3: 2sc, sc 4 (5)
Round 4: 5 sc
Round 5: 2sc, sc 4 (6)
Round 6: 6 sc
Round 7: 2sc, sc 5 (7)
Round 8: 7 sc.
Round 9: 2 sc in each stitch around (14) FO and leave a tail to sew.
Second piece (Bottom BEAK):
Start like the rest – chain 2 and sc in second chain from hook and then make 3 more sc for a total of 4.
Round 2: 4sc
Round 3: 2sc, sc 4 (5)
Round 4: 5 sc
Round 5: 2sc, sc 4 (6)
Round 6: 6 sc
Round 7: 2sc, sc 5 (7) – FO with tail to sew.
The beak will look nicer if you sew the back of each piece closed first and then sew them together. The bottom beak gets sewed under the top beak and then the entire piece gets sewed under the eyes centered on face. There is a photo collage below.
Waddles: Start this with a tail for sewing. Again, I used a #3 red cotton with my G hook, but my own personal hens have pinkish waddles so a rose pink color might also be a good choice.
Chain 5. In the chain farthest from the hook make 4 tr. Chain 4 and slip stitch back into the same place.
Chain 4 and make 4 tr back into that same space. Chain 4 after completing the last treble and slip stitch back into the same space. ALL stitches are worked into the same space. FO with a tail for sewing. I used both long tails and pulled them into the head and tied off on the inside. See photos below. (photo 1)
Comb: Leave a tail and chain 9. In 2nd chain from hook make 2 hdc and hdc 2 in each chain across. When you FO leave a tail for sewing. (photo 2 is before attaching)
Feet/Legs (make two): I have noted in my materials section more on this, but use your G or H hook – whatever is appropriate for your yarn without giving you big holes. I have a video tutorial on how I made my frog legs from an earlier pattern and these are made exactly the same way. So, if you need help on attaching all the toes please see my video tutorial.
The toes are simply:
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2-6 | 6 |
You will make 4 toes – 2 for each foot – to finish off. On the 5th toe you will NOT FO, you will join two previously made toes by sc them together all around for 18sc and finish the leg and then repeat for the next leg.
After you join all the toes you will have 18 stitches. Do another row of 18 sc around and then decrease down to 12 sc around and then continue with 12 sc around for the length you want the legs. I did 30 rows. The video tutorial will help with this part if you have never joined toes or legs of fingers like this.
Wings: for my wings I used my I hook and a 4-ply worsted weight yarn.
*pattern notation: remember, if I write 2hdc that means 2 hdc in the next/same stitch, but hdc 2 means make one hdc in each of the next two stitches.
And if something is in (parenthesis) the number after means repeat that many times: so, (parenthesis) 2 means do what is in the () and then repeat.
Row 1: Chain 2. Sc 6 sc in first chain. Chain 1 and turn.
Row 2: Make 2 sc in each stitch for 12sc. Chain 1 and turn. (these numbers are like working in the round, but we are not joining and are turning in rows instead)
Row 3: Make (1 sc, 2sc) across for 18sc. Chain 1 and turn.
Row 4: Make (1sc, 1sc, 2sc) across for 24 sc. Chain 1 and turn.
Row 5: hdc in the FLO across (24) Chain 1 and turn.
Row 6: (hdc, hdc, hdc, 2hdc) across for 30 hdc. Chain 2 and turn.
Row 7: the chain 2 is not a stitch, so make one DC in the FLO across for 30 dc. Chain 1 and turn.
Row 8: working in the BLO, (hdc 4, 2hdc) 2, skip 1 stitch, (working through both loops now), shell in next stitch, skip 1, shell, (tr, dtr, picot, dtr, tr) 2, (shell, skip 1) 2, BLO (hdc 2, 4 hdc) 2 (see photo)
Chain 1 and fold to join the straight edge side. SC across the straight side. FO with a tail to sew. You are going to sew to the body using this sc ridge only.
Tail:
Polly’s tail is made just like her head loops. I have used a scrap ball of another fuzzy yarn I had and the same yarn for the body and my I hook.
My chains are between 9-16 and I did 7 loops for her tail feathers.
Okay, now the changes for Puff the Rooster.
I’ve already noted up in the material section all my materials. Here are any changes to the pattern for Polly.
Puff has different WADDLES:
I used the same yarn and my H hook. Make 2
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 12 |
| 4 | 12 |
| 5 | 9 |
| 6 | 9 |
| 7 | 6 FO leaving a tail to sew |
Comb: Same materials as Waddles. Leave a tail and chain 13. In 2nd chain from hook start the following stitches:
(2hdc) 2, (2dc) 2, 2tr, tr, tr, 2tr, (2dc) 2, (2hdc) 2. When you FO leave a tail for sewing.
After sewing on his comb, I used the tails that were on the inside of the body and pulled them across the top of his eye on each side.
Everything is the same on the body and feet/legs for Puff, but he does get some “hackle” feathers added in the form of his neck piece. This piece is worked after you have stuffed the head and body because your measurements may differ from mine. When you chain to make your length, it needs to be snug! Don’t make it loose – it’s best to be shy just a little bit – maybe ¼ of an inch and then stretch around neck to sew.
I used my H hook and my ball of roving multi colored yarn.
You need a multiple of 3 +4 chains. Mine was a chain 37.
The pattern repeat/shell is this: (dc, dc, tr, picot, dc, dc) – all in the same stitch with two skipped stitches before and after.
So, your numbers may be just a little different than mine. For mine with my chain 37 (the last 4 chains count as a treble), you start in the 5th chain from the hook with two dc and then skip 2 stitches and do the shell…skip 2 and shell…skip 2 and shell…across. When you get to your last 3 stitches you will skip 2 and in the last stitch make 2 dc.
Wrap around the neck and sew closed. I sewed down each point of the shell and then up around the chain.
Puff has two tail pieces. I made one with my roving ball and blue yarn and one with my roving yarn and green yarn.
One of my pieces has 3 tails and one has four tails. They are made holding two strands of yarn and an I hook. Chain 21-26. After you make your first chain hdc down the chain and slip stitch to the beginning and repeat. I repeated this twice for one piece and 3 times for the other piece. I sewed the 3-tail section above the 4-tail section.
*This was a good place to show you the benefits of Steam Blocking. This link takes you to an earlier post I did about how beneficial this was. The above photo is before I steam blocked my tail pieces and the photo to the side is after. This step makes a huge difference. Steam blocking these “tail feathers” helps them lay flat and uncurl.
And that is it. I hope you enjoy making your chickens <3. I would love to see all your chickens so please share with me @theburgundybasket on IG. #pollyandpuff
Here are a few of my favorite latest things. I live far from big stores, so Amazon and my Amazon Prime are my friend. These are affiliate links.
Crochet can be tough on my left wrist and hand so I wear this when I am not working sometimes if I am feeling any pain:
In addition to my Etsy business, I run a space inside a local artisan boutique and these little pots sold out in one day after I planted them with some hens and chicks.
For my Etsy, I used to mail everything Priority mail, but the rates have gotten so high that I now send everything that I can First Class mail – that means I need cheap, cute, secure mailers and I just ordered my second set of these mailers. I love them! The plastic is nice and thick and the seal sticky. They are the perfect size.
And this bag is my absolute favorite for sorting WIPs because I can store all my project inside and grab it up as I run out the door. And, it makes a great conversation starter when others can see inside. I have sold pieces from my bag <3
