This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me. You can find me at all these places as The Burgundy Basket
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
As an Amazon Affiliate I will earn a small percentage from qualifying purchases made through this post. I offer my patterns here for free in hopes that you will click through and purchase your materials through my affiliate links so that I can keep offering you free patterns. So, here we go on this bit of awesomeness!
I do have a PDF instant download file on Etsy if you prefer to have it in an easy to read format that you can easily print. It can be found HERE.
I knew as soon as I saw this Bernat Bundle Bright yarn that I needed – NEEDED! – to make a baby play mat. When I work on baby toys, textures, and colors and sensory stimulation is a huge thing for me and this yarn fit it all! I purchased my yarn at JoAnn’s and have not seen it elsewhere. There are also other colors available in this yarn if you want to make substitutions. I actually had one in my hand with white and yellow before I decided on these 3.
Materials:
-Hook: I used a P/11.5mm hook for this blanket/playmat pattern and my H, I, and J hook for the baby toys attached/removable. I will note the size next to each toy.
My CLOVER Hooks are my FAVORITE TOOL! And as I write this you can get a set for 47% off!
-3 Big Rolls of BERNAT BUNDLE BRIGHTS. I used 1 roll each of Gumball, What’sThe Teal-Y-O, and Jurassic. NOTE: I USED EVERY BIT OF MY YARN. I had only the smallest little ball leftover of my last color. So, if you want to make sure you have absolutely enough yarn in these three rolls without buying more and are a loose crocheter – or simply don’t want to play yarn chicken – I have a few options you can do:
- Skip the very last round. So, what that means is that the last round of 180 stitches gets eliminated. You will have plenty of yarn in this case, but you will need to adjust the final popcorn row. I did popcorns in every 4th stitch for a total of 45 popcorns. If you eliminate the last round you will have 174 stitches in your final round. You can still make your popcorn border as I have done in the pattern and just count at the very end and adjust your skipped chains by a few – so, maybe skip 2 instead of 3 or skip 4 etc. Just do this at the end. It won’t be noticeable. OR
- You can single crochet instead of hdc. You will still have a nice size play mat, but will have plenty of yarn left. – or maybe just single crochet the first color and then change to hdc. I like HDC for this yarn. If you have never worked with blanket yarn – it can pucker. The part of this yarn that is like Bernat Blanket has a “bounce” to it so it can pucker out if your stitches are too close or tight. So, I do prefer a HDC when using the blanket yarn.
- See the end of this pattern for how to alter your popcorn border to also save a little yarn. So, if you get all the way to the final popcorn round and just are not sure you will make it, I suggest reading the end to choose a way to alter that final border round.
Now, if you want to substitute the yarn, this yarn is a #6 and
these rolls are 8.8oz/250g/189m/207yds appx.
– I don’t typically use Stitch markers, but you will something to keep track of your rounds because this is a very large piece. You will want to be able to keep track of your new rows. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
-For the baby toys that get added after – If you choose – here is my material list for those:
– 100% cotton yarn. I used a mix of Sugar & Cream, Peaches & Cream, Bernat Softee Baby Cotton, HL I love this cotton, Scrub-o-logy cotton, and Red Heart Scrubby. I chose cotton for the baby teething toys. Cotton is easily washed as are all the toys that I used.
–kid toy crinkle paper. I used a brand I found on Amazon, but use what you have access to. Crinkle paper comes in big sheets so you should have a lot leftover.
–Rattle boxes. I also buy a big bag of these from Amazon a few times a year. They are great for making all sorts of rattles and baby toys. Just search or ask for “rattle boxes” and go with what looks good to you.
-Polyfil or another type of stuffing – for the balls.
-I also used natural wooden baby teething rings and silicone baby teethers. I also purchased mine from Amazon, but you can find these in the baby sections of most stores. The silicone teething rings that I purchased match this yarn exactly! The ones I ordered from Amazon that match this yarn are from Bonbino Baby and are in the color Unisex.
-I added squeakers to the removable flower toy that buttons on in 3 petals and also crinkle paper in two petals. Squeaker also ordered in a large bag from Amazon. You can use the extra for more toys or make dog toys from these as well.
Spiral Crochet/Continuous Rounds
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round.
Stitches Used:
Chain: Ch
Sl St: slip stitch
SC: single crochet
DC: double crochet
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Puff Stitch – I did puff stitches ending with 5 loops on my hook before pulling through. You can also make these popcorn stitches if you prefer.
Special Stitches: POPCORN – dc 5 times in indicated space. Pull the loop on your hook up a little and remove your hook. Go back into the top of the first dc and then loop back into the pull up loop from your last dc and pull through the first dc and chain. *it is much better to go out and find a video of how to do popcorns.
Now, the pattern. I am putting this pattern in chart form. Its just a simplified version of working in the round. To understand it you simply need to know how to work in the round. Each round increases by 6 stitches evenly around. It is worked in the traditional increase method – example:
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 5: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Each round increases in the same pattern as above.
I start my work with a chain 2 and then sc in second chain from hook, but you can also start with a magic ring if you prefer that start.
Choose your first roll and begin. When you get to the end of the first roll, join the second roll and continue in pattern right where you left off. Make sure to weave in those ends really good when finishing off one and starting another. Now, when I started my 3rd roll, I decided to do my middle puff stitches around round 6 before continuing on the playmat. I wanted to make sure I was going to have enough yarn to finish. So, I do recommend that if you are going to make the puff stitch round in round 6, you go ahead and do that first and then go back and attach the last roll to where you left off on the playmat. This way if you do run short on the end of the pattern you can adjust. More on that at the end**
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 |
| 5 | 30 |
| 6 | 36 *the puff stitch decorative fun round goes here. See notes above on when to do this and see pattern below chart. |
| 7 | 42 |
| 8 | 48 |
| 9 | 54 |
| 10 | 60 |
| 11 | 66 |
| 12 | 72 |
| 13 | 78 |
| 14 | 84 |
| 15 | 90 |
| 16 | 96 |
| 17 | 102 |
| 18 | 108 |
| 19 | 114 |
| 20 | 120 |
| 21 | 126 |
| 22 | 132 |
| 23 | 138 |
| 24 | 144 |
| 25 | 150 |
| 26 | 156 |
| 27 | 162 |
| 28 | 168 |
| 29 | 174 |
| 30 | 180 |
Puff Stich Texture Round: On round 6 you will slip stitch your 3rd color around one of the hdc stitches and chain up 2. Do a DC Puff Stitch around the same stitch as your chain up 2 and then skip one stitch and puff stitch around the next stitch. You will puff stitch and skip a stitch all around Round 6 so that at the end you have 18 puff stitches.
For the Popcorn border: Chain 4. This chain 4 counts as a chain 2 at the beginning of the popcorn. In 2nd chain from hook make a 5dc popcorn stitch – ch 2 – skip 3 – repeat this pattern around. Essentially it will look like a ch 2 – popcorn – ch 2 with 3 stitches in between.
My example has 45 popcorn stitches.
***Now, if you get to the end and see that you are going to run out of yarn before you complete your last popcorns here are some options you can do:
-Instead of 5 dc popcorns do some 4 dc popcorns. This will save a little yarn.
-Skip more than 3 spaces – skip 4 or 5 and figure out how to make the popcorns evenly spaced.
-alternate 4 dc and 5 dc popcorns around
-go down a hook size on this last round
Those are some options if you get to the end and have to squeeze out a little extra yarn.
Now. You are completely done with the blanket/mat portion.
I designed this toy so that all parts are removable. This way as your baby grows and no longer needs the teething toys these can be taken off. Additionally, the button that holds the flower and the mesh net for the balls can also be careful snipped off to have a soft, snuggly blanket for your toddler/child.
All parts are designed to be washable.
Add-On Toys
Okay. Let’s start with the cotton “straps” for securing the teething toys. I have made two sizes. The silicone teething rings are on the “short” size and the wooden animals on the longer strap.
Longer strap: Using your H hook, chain 51. HDC 50 along your chain. When you get to the end count back 20 stitches up the chain and slip stitch into the hdc to create a loop. SC across 10 the next 10 hdc stitches. Now, pull up the bottom of your strap and secure it with a slip stitch to the next stitch – making a second loop.
FO and sew in your ends. You should have two loops on each side with 10 sc separating them in the center.
Shorter Straps like the ones that the silicone teething rings are on. ***Please note if you are using different rings than what I am using. These silicone rings are “squishy” – they squish flat so are able to get inserted into the loop when done. If you are using a rigid toy you will want to make sure it fits through your loop.
With your I hook, ch 20 and join to form a circle. Chain 30 more (straight up from your join) and count back 20 chains and slip stitch. *you should now have two chain 20 loop with 10 chains in between.** Ch 1 and DC in the next 10 chains. Chain 1 and cut your yarn and pull it through. Sew this tail back to first loop to close and weave in your ends.
Removable Flower Squeaker and Crinkle Disc:
Disc: (make two)
You will cut a piece of the crinkle paper after your first shape is done so that it is the same size.
I have used two different colors of cotton, but you can use what you have. I also worked in the Back Loop only (BLO) for some rounds for the added texture that it gives.
Chain 2. In second chain from hook make 6 sc.
-Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
-Round 3: BLO *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
-Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
-Round 5: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
-Round 6: *1 sc in next four sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
-Round 7: *1 sc in next five sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
FO the FIRST disc only – DO NOT FINISH off the second one.
After the second disc is done hold the two wrong sides together and make another round of increases through BOTH layers. **Before CLOSING up with the last round insert your crinkle paper between the layers.
Joining round: *1 sc in next six sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (48)
Don’t finish off. Chain 35 and slip stitch back into the disc. Chain 1 and turn and make 50 sc into the loop. *this is optional, but does make it sturdier.
Now for the Flower:
Using your H hook you will make the petals first. A few notes:
I stuffed 3 petals with squeakers and 2 with crinkle paper. I also knew which button I was going to use and how big my chain needed to be to go around my button. If you choose a larger button with a larger chain to fit over the button you may need to add petals.
The petals are worked in the round like this:
Chain 2. In second chain from hook make 6 sc.
-Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
-Round 3: BLO *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
-Round 4: sc in each stitch around (18)
-Round 5: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
-Round 6: sc in each sc around (12)
*insert squeaker or crinkle paper
-Round 7: dec around (6)
-Round 8: dec around (3) FO and leave a tail of at least 6 inches.
Now, as I mentioned above, I selected a button where I knew I needed about 10 chains to go around my button. If you are doing this part you need to chain as many chains as needed to be just smaller than your button because when you stitch into your chain it will expand a little. After you make the chain as big as you need join it to form a circle and test it to see how your button slides into it. You want it to be snug, but not super hard to push your flower over the button.
So, I chained 10 and did 15sc into the chain 10 space. I chose 15 so that each of my petals had 3 stitches to itself. If you are doing 6 petals you will want 18 stitches in your circle.
So, I did my chain 10 – joined – chained up 1 – sc back into the space you joined – attach petal by inserting hook into next chain and then into bottom of petal and then do a single crochet like normal. Sc in next stitch. (Sc in next stitch. Join next petal. Sc in next stitch.) repeat this sequence for all petals. Weave in all ends. For the 6-inch tails from petals I ran them into the bottom of the petals and back into my chain a few times and sewed closed and hid my tails just to make sure my petals were stable.
Balls:
For the balls I made I used 3 strands of cotton and my J hook. I like to make baby balls with a lot of color and texture so I used two different colors of cotton and one different color of the scrubby yarn.
Follow the traditional increases for working in the round as described above. Here is the number sequence I used for the balls in this toy:
6, 12, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 12, 6, close
I inserted a rattle piece into each ball as I was stuffing.
Now, for the last step. I wanted a place in the mat for the balls to be stored or for baby to have fun trying to get to them. This step is optional, but does make a nice little storage area for the toys.
The “mesh net” gets sewed to the center rounds.
I used my J hook and one of my cotton colors.
Chain 25. Join to form a circle being careful not to twist.
Ch. 1 and hdc in every chain (25)
Join. Chain up 1 and sc back into your joining stitch.
(Chain 5. Skip 3. Sc in next) repeat this around.
When you get back to the first chain 5 loop you will sc back into your first sc.
Chain 5. sc in first chain 5 loop. (Chain 5 and sc back into the same loop. Chain 5 and sc in next loop.) repeat this pattern around and keep going. You will not join again, but rather keep working this mesh spiral around until your mesh back stretches out the size you want it into the center of your circle. I ended up with 7 rows of chain 5 loops around and then for my final round I did a chain 10 and sc in all the loops. FO and pin into place. See my photo. It may be hard to see my pins, but pin the center opening over the center of your play mat and then stretch out your loops evenly all around and pin in place. Leave a pretty long tail – enough to sew the mesh down all the way around. When sewing keep it neat – I went into and out of my chains and under the top of my play mat stiches so my sewing is almost invisible.
And, there! You have it. What a fun, bright and textured piece for baby to play with. This yarn is also very soft and makes a great blanket. Thank you for checking out my ROMP AND ROLL Baby Play Mat. You will see some of the links to the materials below in my Amazon Affiliate links. I will make a small percentage from these sales and can continue to bring you fun, free patterns.
