Let’s do this 2020 thing! If you didn’t see the post yesterday where all The Calendar Kids ©️ were introduced, you may enjoy seeing what is coming up each and every month this year. Every month this year, a new doll pattern will be here for you to enjoy for FREE! Make sure to pin this pin and come back on the first of each month for a new free pattern – or just follow my blog and you will get an email when I post new content.
Can’t wait to make all the dolls this year? Or want to combine a few patterns/clothes to custom make your own doll? You can find the entire 204 page E-book right HERE on Etsy. *I am in the process of modifying this to move parts that are redundant and make this smaller. So, stay tuned. If you prefer Ravelry, I also have them set up for you here – for Ravelry you have to put them all in your cart rather than in an eBook format. 
This is Jenny. Jenny loves to dress up and have a good time. She enjoys shopping, music and eating out with her friends. She’s all dressed up for a night on the town and would love for you to accompany her. The pattern is below and all of her parts are easily modified for color or style.
Jenny January – Jenny is one of only two of my dolls where the head is made separate from the body and then sewn on. In this pattern there are some non-traditional increases and decreases to shape her face a bit differently. Her ears are puff stitches crocheted while you make the head so there are no ears to make and sew after. Her body is made like my other dolls. She is made with her boots crocheted on, but her dress is removable so you can change her clothes and/or make other clothes to go with her.
I have more photos in her 15 page Etsy PDF. Prefer Ravelry? The PDF is the same and you can find that here
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then from any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
THE CALENDAR KIDS©️ JENNY JANUARY ©️
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family, so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern, please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Jenny January ©️ Is the first doll in a yearlong series of dolls. Each month in 2020, I will be making a new doll to accompany Jenny, and all my dolls, will feature different, changeable clothing, hair and face techniques.
Jenny, and all her friends, can be found only right here. Join me this year as I make all my Calendar Kids ©️ Come to life. Find me at TheBurgundyBasket.com
All of my patterns are written using US Crochet Terms.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things.
Materials:
These dolls are designed to have stash-busting in mind. For many parts of these dolls you only need the smallest scraps of yarn. Even for the skin parts, you won’t need that much. I encourage you to dig through your stash pile. When you need larger amounts, I will make note of these on all of my dolls. My Calendar Kids ©️ range in size from 17-22”, but your size may vary depending on the yarn and hook that you use.
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for this for the most part. Any changes will be noted. These are the hooks that I use exclusively now. If you are going to buy yourself a crochet gift this year, let it be these hooks.
-I typically use Caron One-Pound for all of my Amigurumi, Dolls and Toys. It is a great, sturdy yarn that doesn’t get “splitty” when crocheting and it holds up well for little hands. I will note what my skin color is for each doll because Caron makes great skin tones! I will also note any different materials that I use.
-Red Heart Super Saver in Black (boots)
-Caron One-Pound in Lace (skin tone)
-Lion Brand Homespun in Golden (Hair)
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. This first set is where I got Jenny’s eyes, but as I blog this they are out of stock. I also have this second set which has the brown eyes in the same sizes.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer. Now, I am an avid toy maker and use a lot of stuffing, so I always get the 50-100 pound box at my JoAnn’s store when it is NOT on sale and I have a 50% off coupon. If you don’t have access to a local store with a box and are also an avid toy maker you can get this big box delivered for free.
Optional, but very nice for head support: 6-pack of foam rollers:
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
Hints and Tips for Stuffies, Ragdolls, Amigurumi etc.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Invisible Single Crochet 3 Together: inv3sctog
Double Crochet: DC
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
HDC Puff Stitch (x): hdcpuff(x): I use a half double crochet puff stitch for some parts of the dolls. Sometimes it a 2 puff, sometimes 3, 4, and sometimes 5. For example, to hdc puff (4) you will: Yarn over and insert hook into space, pull up a loop, yarn over and insert hook into space again and pull up another loop, (that’s 2), yarn over and pull up another loop (3), and finally, yarn over and pull up a loop for the 4th time. Now, yarn over and pull through all loops on chain. This is a hdc puff (4) – sometimes I will specify a 3 and sometimes a 2 – this is how many times you yarn over – it makes either a small or a large puff.
Basic Doll Feet/Legs with “Toes” (make 2)
For Jenny, I have modified this post with instructions on how to make her Boots.
*continuous spiral crochet
If you are making a doll with boots or tennis shoes etc. just skip the puff stitched “toes” and carry on with regular single crochet. If you are making feet start with skin color. If you are making boots start with boot color.
Right Foot/Leg:
Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook 2sc, sc in the next 8st, 4sc in last stitch, going along other side of chain: sc 8, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – we are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28) *if making socks just work in both
Round 4:
4a: IF MAKING SOCKS/SHOES/BOOTS: R4: Sc around (28) and then GO TO Round 5 below.
4b: IF MAKING FEET: R4: sc 11, hdc puff 4, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 2, sc 12
R5: sc 8, (inv dec) 6, sc 8 (22)
R6: sc 5, (inv dec) 6, sc 5 (16)
R7: sc 4, (inv dec) 4, sc 4 (12) *start stuffing*
*stuff leg firm as you go up. This doll can stand up when completed – at least propped up – but, the feet and legs need to be stuff firm.
R8-19: sc around (12) – that’s 156 stitches if you are working in the spiral
IF YOU ARE MAKING BOOTS: you need to finish your sc stitches in the back of the leg. Just sc around until you get to the middle of the back of the leg and then change to your skin color BUT DON’T CUT YOUR BOOT COLOR JUST YET IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THE BOOT CUFF.
R20A: sc around the leg in the skin color in the BLO (12) – drop skin color, but don’t cut. Pick up your boot color and
R20B: ch 2. DC around in the FLO around the leg. Slip Stitch to first DC and FO. Tie off boot color and weave in your end. Your boot cuff will fold down over boot.
Pick up your SKIN COLOR now.
NOW FOR THE KNEE:
You may/will need to crochet around the leg a few more stitches until you get to the 4 FRONT-MOST stitches on the front of the leg. *I have a series of photos below to help with the next steps.
This is going to maybe be the trickiest part of your doll. The BLO stitches will be tight.
R21: In the four front-most stitches you are going to HDC FLO, chain 1, now turn – now, working BEHIND those 4 stitches you will HDC BLO behind those stitches (you are making a double layer) *the very first BLO stitch might be hard to get/see – just count over and find it. After you do the HDC BLO stitches, ch 1 and turn (you are back in the front of the knee now. Now, sc through both layers of the first 4 hdc stitches and then sc in the next 8 stitches (12)
R22: SC around (12)
R23: Sc in the first sc, (inc sc) 2, sc in the next 9 stitches (14)
R24-33: Now you will work 10 more rounds in spiral crochet – that is 140 stitches.
Finish OFF.
Left Foot/Leg: DON’T FASTEN OFF THE SECOND LEG
For the left leg you will work exactly as the right leg EXCEPT:
R4: sc 11, hdc puff 2, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 4, sc 12
UNLESS YOU ARE MAKING BOOTS AND THEN THEY ARE THE SAME PATTERN.
NOW – hold both legs facing you with toes toward you. You want to be at the center part of the left leg – so, just like the knee, where you had to maybe crochet a few extra stitches, you are going to do the same here. You are joining the legs on the inside edge. Single crochet around the left leg until you get to the most “inside” stitch. This will NOT make any difference at the end. *you may be at a point on your left leg where it makes more sense to pull out a few stitches instead of adding some – that is totally fine as well.
Slip Stitch into the inner most stitch of the LEFT leg then chain 4 and slip stitch into the coordinating inner most stitch on the RIGHT leg to join the two legs.
R1: sc around the right leg for 10, sc in each chain of the chain 4 space, sc around the left leg for 10, single crochet in the same chain 4 space in front of the other single crochets (28)
R2: sc around (28)
FOR GIRL DOLL, the pattern now makes “hips” – going up to the BODY
R3: sc around, but make 1 inc sc in two stitches on the outside of the “hip” – you will be adding 2 sc on each “hip” but try to put at least one space between them (32)
R4: sc around, but make 1 inc sc in 3 sc on each side of the hip. Try to space them out with at least one stitch between them. You will be adding 3 stitches on EACH hip (38)
R5-7: sc around (38)
R8: crochet around, but inv dec 3 sc on each side of each hip with at least a space between them and inv dec one sc in the middle of the back. (you are subtracting 3 sc from each hip and one from the back) (31)
R9: sc around
R10: repeat round 8, but instead of 1 sc dec on back you need to sc3tog (single crochet 3 sc together) on the center of back. (23)
R11-15: sc around ***check your stuffing***
*add belly button if you want at this point. I just embroidered one with skin colored yarn
R16-18: sc around (23)
R19: sc around, but you will inc 2sc on each side of body (27)
R20: on this round you will do 1sc in each stitch around, BUT, if you want to add “breasts” to your doll they are simply (3hdc, sc 5, 3hdc) straight up from the belly button. The 3 hdc are worked into one stitch. So, turn your doll and look at her and mark the 5 middle-most stitches and then mark the two stitches on each side of those to make the breasts. (photo below) If you find that you are already somewhere on the front of your doll at the start of this round, you want to pull back some stitches or add some single crochet to get around to the back so you can start the round not on the front of your doll. I always choose to add some stitches to start my rounds on the back of my doll. This will not make any difference on your finished product. (31)
R21: sc around, but when you get to the 3 hdc for each breast you will make one 3sctog (27)
R22: sc around, but dec 3 sc on the back (24) – where isn’t crucial, but space them out a few stitches each so you don’t get a “pucker”
R23: repeat R22 (21)
R24: *start stuffing* (sc 5, dec) 3 (18)
R25: (sc 2, dec) around (12)
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2)
****I USE MY E HOOK FOR THESE*****
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) – continuous spiral
Round 1: Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc from round 1, make (1 sc, 2 sc) * repeat around (9) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 9 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
R3: *1 sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (12)
R4-5: sc in each stitch around (12) (12)
R6: sc 7, ch 3, skip 1, sc 4 (11sc and one chain 3 space)
R7: sc 7, 3sc in the space, sc 4 (14)
R8: sc 7, inv3sctog, sc 4 (12)
R9: *sc in next 2sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (9)
R10-24: sc in each stitch around. Work in continuous spiral for 135 stitches
*turn arm so that the thumb “hole” is facing down and flatten the arm. (see pictures below) Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body.
THUMB: join yarn to the side of the thumb space and sc evenly around for 6 sc. (R1)
R2: 6sc around
R3: dec sc around (3) FO and pull tail through hand before cutting. Shape thumb
*I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
This doll is one of my only patterns where the head is made separately and then sewn on. Most of my doll patterns have heads that get crocheted up from the body/neck with no sewing, but Jenny has a head crocheted separately with instruction on making stitches that shape her face. She also has instructions in the head pattern to make puff stitch ears as part of the head- so no ears are required to be sewn on, but I do have an alternate to this in the pattern on the last page if you want larger ears to sew on. If you have never made amigurumi and had to sew on a head – I encourage you to start with one of my dolls that has a no-sew head.
HEAD *still work in a spiral
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 5: *1sc in next three sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 6: *1sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 7: *1sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Rounds 8-13: 1sc in each stitch around working in a spiral (42)
Round 14: sc3tog, 6sc, sc3tog, finish round with 30 sc (38) *TIP – MARK the sctog stitches with a piece of contrasting yarn to help later. This is where your eyes will go, so this is the front of the face.
Round 15: sc around (38)
The next round has instructions on doing puff stitch ears.
Round 16: sc16, hdcpuff5 stitch one row above in space. [*TIP: you may want to mark the stitch just after the one you are puffing around because it may get hidden by your puff stitch. If you mark it, you can easily see it after your puff stitch is completed. You will not be making any actual stitch into the one your puff covers.]
sc17, do another Puff Ear just like above for next ear. [*Due to the way working in the round makes your rows a little “off” you may want to puff stitch 2 rows above for the 2nd ear to make them more lined up. This is completely up to you and if you choose to do it you will not notice after your doll is done.]
Sc 3 to finish round. (38)
Round 17: sc2, 3 sc in next stitch, sc7, 3 sc in next stitch, sc27 to finish round (42) *TIP: to make sure we are on the “same page” – these increases will be 5sc from each ear puff on the side.
Round 18: sc around (42) *now if you are with me, you should end two stitches in front of right ear. If not just adjust here a few stitches.
Round 19: you will decrease now where the nose goes on this round: sc8, sc3tog, sc31 to finish round (40)
Round 20: sc40 around
Round 21: sc6, (sc dec) 3, sc16, dec sc, sc10 (36)
Round 22: sc around (36)*place your eyes, eye lashes/brows, nose, mouth etc before you go any further. This part is largely up to you. Here is a close up of Jenny’s face so you can see how I placed/did everything on my doll.
Start decreasing. Stuff as required. It is important to have enough stuffing, but not so much you pucker your stitches out. You do want your dolls to be firm.
Round 23: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 24: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 25: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 26: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
FO leaving a long tail. After you push the last bit of stuffing up into your doll you want to sew the opening closed. Hide tail inside your doll by pulling the needle in and out of your doll a few times before cutting. * see note below if using a roller or rod or anything for head support.
Assemble. You want to sew arms just below neck and sew head onto body. You must sew the head on very well. I can’t say enough about how much sewing to do. I sew the head all the way around from round 4 on head to neck and pull tight. Just a few stitches around neck won’t be good enough. Some folks find that inserting a foam roller helps support the head better. *if you choose to use the roller in the neck/head, do NOT sew up the opening, but rather stop with your 12 crochet stitches on the last round and insert the roller into the neck cavity and then up into the head and then sew on the head.
Jenny’s Hair:
For Jenny’s Messy Bun/Up do I used an I hook. Work in a continuous spiral.
Her bun starts as a ball that gets stuffed – then you make a “hat” to cover her head.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Rounds 5-8: sc around in each stitch (24)
Round 9: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18) – start stuffing
Round 10: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
Round 11: sc dec around (6) –Finish Stuffing Bun
Round 12: 2sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 13: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 14: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 15: *1sc in next three sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 16: *1sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 17: *1sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (42) *you want to check for proper fit. You may find due to your materials, stuffing, etc that you need to go down an increase or maybe even up some more.
Rounds 18-22: sc in each stitch around (42)
FO and sew onto head.
*TIP: I personally only trust and use Beacon Fabritac glue for all my material/fabric needs. I put a dollop on the top of the head just under where the bun will sit and let dry for extra hair stability. This keeps you from having to sew stitches up at the top of the head to stabilize the hair hat. I have used this glue for decades. It is the only one I trust with my crafts. It doesn’t take much and it dries fairly quick.
Make long strands of your “hair” from yarn. I made -and used them all – 94 strips that were 36” long. You probably won’t need them that long, so if you know you will be cutting your hair shorter, just make your strands shorter. I wrap them around my bed post all at once and then cut so that is why mine were the size they were.
Pull them through the stitches and work around the head. See my photos below.
Jenny’s DRESS:
I used Premier EveryDay in Black Mart for Jenn’s dress and my size I hook
Chain 31
Row 2: hdc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain. Ch 1 and turn (30)
Row 3: hdc across in BLO. Ch1 and turn (30)
Rows 4-18: repeat row 3
Row 19: hdc in the next 15 stitches. Ch 1 and turn
Row 20-21: repeat row 19
Row 22: sc in 1st stitch, *[ch 3, skip 2, sc in next 3] repeat one time, ch 3, skip 2, sc in last 2 stitches. (button holes)
Ch 1, but turn to work on the top side of skirt across the long upper side.
Single crochet evenly across the top for 12 sc. Ch1 turn
Sc2tog, sc in the next 8, sc2tog (10) ch1and turn
Sc 10, ch1 and turn
Sc2tog, sc in next 6, sc2tog (8) ch1 and turn
Sc 8 Ch 1 and turn – repeat this row two more times.
*(sc 1, {hdc, dc, tc, dc, hdc} in same stitch) ** sc in next stitch, slip stitch 2, repeat from * to **once
Now, single crochet evenly around the entire piece to make a nice edge. I used a contrasting color, but you can use the same as your dress. At the top of the dress, chain neck ties. (slip stitch into tr at the top of the dress, ch 20, slip st back down the tie and then back into the treble).
NOTE: on my trim I didn’t want to go into the button holes so I slip stitched under the button holes across the row under them.
Alternate Ears
The ears are a simple circle like this:
Leave a short tail to start. Chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook make the following stitches: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, chain 3 and slip stitch back into first stitch and FO with tail to sew. The dc is the bottom of the ear – so, flip the second ear over when you sew. The ears get sewed on about 5-6 stitches behind the eyes with the top of the ear even with the eye. I use the two tails to tie on and then hide the tails inside the head.
Thank you XOXO, Jenny January
#thecalendarkids
#jennyjanuary
@theburgundybasket on IG would love to see your Jenny dolls. <3
I just found these patterns. This is going to be my project for 2021
Yay!! So exciting!! I’d love to see your dolls. Find me on Instagram and Facebook at The Burgundy Basket ❤️