Let’s do this 2020 thing! If you didn’t see the post where all The Calendar Kids ©️ were introduced, you may enjoy seeing what is coming up each and every month this year. Every month this year, a new doll pattern will be here for you to enjoy for FREE! Make sure to pin this pin and come back on the first of each month for a new free pattern – or just follow my blog and you will get an email when I post new content.
My dolls all feature different hair and face techniques to make a doll for multiple age groups. So, if you popped over to check out my August doll and don’t love her, make sure to pin this post and check out other months because they are all different.
And BEST of ALL – MOST require very little sewing as MOST have the heads as a continuation from the body.
Here is a pin you can save for later to follow me this year as I share my love of these dolls with you.
Can’t wait to make all the dolls this year? Or want to combine a few patterns/clothes to custom make your own doll? You can find the entire 204 page E-book right HERE on Etsy. (Right now it is just all 12 pdfs put together, but I am in the process of modifying this to move parts that are redundant and make this smaller. So, stay tuned. **I have it down to 170 pages and just need to edit it a bit more. It will be replacing the current one soon- if you are waiting.) If you prefer Ravelry, I also have them set up for you here – for Ravelry you have to put them all in your cart rather than in an eBook format. 
Meet Amy. Amy is such a sweetie and is really looking forward to going back to school. This at home period has been so tough for her and all of her little friends and they are ready to go back to see their favorite teachers, laugh and play, and enjoy life as it used to be. She’s so bubbly and outgoing and the life of the room! She is witty and fun and enjoys playing pranks on her brother Owen October.
Amy is another doll perfect for younger girls. She is crocheted much like Jae-Lynn July in that she doesn’t have the “hips” and “curves.” Her bodysuit and socks are crocheted as the doll body and her dress pattern is removable and in the pattern. Her pattern has a nice hair tutorial with lots of tips for modifying the hair. I have many more photos in my paid PDF if you need help and I always keep my pattern prices low. Her face is simple. Her shoes are removable. Her 17-page PDF also contains both of my arm versions with a lot of photo tutorials. You can find her PDF in my ETSY SHOP and my Ravelry.
All of my paid patterns have more photos, tips and tutorials etc. My free blog patterns give all the written pattern, but more photo tutorials are included in my paid pattern.
Did you miss my other dolls this year? If so and you want a quick link to them here they are:
Mario May-one of two of my boy dolls
Jazzy June GRADUATED this year as well so check out how to make a graduation gown and cap on THIS POST.
And, if you missed it, check out how I modified Delaney December and Owen October into NURSE and DOCTOR dolls to celebrate all the medical workers. You can read more ON THIS POST.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then from any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
THE CALENDAR KIDS©️ Amy August ©️ DOLL PATTERN
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family, so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Amy August ©️ Is the eighth doll in a yearlong series of dolls. Each month in 2020, I will be making a new doll to accompany Amy and all my dolls, will feature different, changeable clothing, hair and face techniques.
Amy, and all her friends, can be found only right here. Join me this year as I make all my Calendar Kids ©️ Come to life. Find me at TheBurgundyBasket.com
All of my patterns are written using US Crochet Terms.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things.
Materials:
These dolls are designed to have stash-busting in mind. For many parts of these dolls you only need the smallest scraps of yarn. Even for the skin parts, you won’t need that much. I encourage you to dig through your stash pile. When you need larger amounts, I will make note of these on all of my dolls. My Calendar Kids ©️ range in size from 17-22”, but your size may vary depending on the yarn and hook that you use.
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for this for the most part. Any changes will be noted. These are the only hooks I use now:
-I typically use Caron One-Pound for all of my Amigurumi, Dolls and Toys. It is a great, sturdy yarn that doesn’t get “splitty” when crocheting and it holds up well for little hands. I will note what my skin color is for each doll because Caron makes great skin tones! I will also note any different materials that I use -for Amy, I have used Caron One Pound in Lace. Scraps of yarn were used for her bodysuit, dress, socks and shoes. Hair is Red Heart Super Saver in Black with a scrap of purple.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. This is the pack that the eyes in my example have come from:
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
Optional, but very nice for head support: 6-pack of foam rollers:
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker! If you are new to crochet doll making or want to get yourself a gift I highly recommend this kit that has it all.
Hints and Tips for Stuffies, Ragdolls, Amigurumi etc.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Invisible Single Crochet 3 Together: inv3sctog
Double Crochet: DC
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
HDC Puff Stitch (x): hdcpuff(x): I use a half double crochet puff stitch for some parts of the dolls. Sometimes it a 2 puff, sometimes 3, 4, and sometimes 5. For example, to hdc puff (4) you will: Yarn over and insert hook into space, pull up a loop, yarn over and insert hook into space again and pull up another loop, (that’s 2), yarn over and pull up another loop (3), and finally, yarn over and pull up a loop for the 4th time. Now, yarn over and pull through all loops on chain. This is a hdc puff (4) – sometimes I will specify a 3 and sometimes a 2 – this is how many times you yarn over – it makes either a small or a large puff.
Basic Doll Feet/Legs with “Toes” (make 2)
*continuous spiral crochet
If you are making a doll with boots, socks or tennis shoes etc. just skip the puff stitched “toes” and carry on with regular single crochet. Amy has socks on, so I have not made her toes. I’ve used some scrap red yarn for her socks so I started crocheting with my red.
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
Right Foot/Leg:Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook 2sc, sc in the next 8st, 4sc in last stitch, going along other side of chain: sc 8, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – we are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28) *if making socks just work in both loops
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Round 4:
4a: IF MAKING SOCKS/SHOES/BOOTS: R4: Sc around (28) and then GO TO Round 5 below.
4b: IF MAKING FEET: R4: sc 12, hdc puff 4, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 2, sc 11
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R5: sc 8, (inv dec) 6, sc 8 (22)
R6: sc 5, (inv dec) 6, sc 5 (16)
R7: sc 4, (inv dec) 4, sc 4 (12) *start stuffing*
*stuff leg firm as you go up. This doll can stand up when completed – at least propped up – but, the feet and legs need to be stuff firm.
R8-20: sc around (12) – that’s 156 stitches if you are working in the spiral
For my Amy doll, her socks go over her knee and cover the knee so I have kept it simple and just continued to work straight up. Below the instructions for Amy, I have left in my knee directions that I use for my general doll pattern.
R21-22: sc around (12) – Amy doesn’t use my knee stitches below – I have kept her simple for her over-the-knee socks.
R23: (sc in the next 5, 2sc), repeat once more (14)
___________________________________________________________________
These are the instructions for knees for my basic pattern. If you have made Amy with over the knee socks SKIP ALL OF THIS
They start on round 21:
NOW FOR THE KNEE:
You may/will need to crochet around the leg a few more stitches until you get to the 4 FRONT-MOST stitches on the front of the leg. *I have a series of photos below to help with the next steps.
This is going to maybe be the trickiest part of your doll. The BLO stitches will be tight.
R21: In the four front-most stitches you are going to HDC FLO, chain 1, now turn – now, working BEHIND those 4 stitches you will HDC BLO behind those stitches (you are making a double layer) *the very first BLO stitch might be hard to get/see – just count over and find it. After you do the HDC BLO stitches, ch 1 and turn (you are back in the front of the knee now. Now, sc through both layers of the first 4 hdc stitches and then sc in the next 8 stitches (12)
R22: SC around (12) *your first sc of this round goes into the first hdc from the previous round.
R23: Sc in the first sc, (inc sc) 2, sc in the next 9 stitches (14)
R24-33: Now you will work 10 more rounds in spiral crochet – that is 140 stitches unless you are making underpants/bikini bottoms/etc.
For a doll wearing “underwear” that are crochet as you go – you will work in the skin color for 9 rounds and then change color to the shorts color on the last stitch and then crochet the last round of the legs in the color you chose for the underwear/shorts.
Continue here for Amy. She is wearing Shorts:
R24-26: working around -still with your sock color- sc one stitch in each stitch around (14). You will change to skin color on the last stitch of round 26, but it is best to do this in the back of the knee so you won’t have any visible “jogs” so work a few extra stitches on round 26 to be on the back of the knee if you need.
R27: BLO Sc in each stitch around (14)
R28-32: sc in each stitch around and change to shorts color on the last stitch.
R33-35: sc in each stitch around in shorts color. Finish off the first leg, but not the second leg.
***for socks you want to go back and double crochet around the open loop at the top of the sock to make the sock band.
Left Foot/Leg: DON’T FASTEN OFF THE SECOND LEG
For the left leg you will work exactly as you did the right leg.
NOW – hold both legs facing you with toes toward you. You want to be at the center part of the left leg – so, make a few extra stitches if needed. You are joining the legs on the inside edge. Single crochet around the left leg until you get to the most “inside” stitch. This will NOT make any difference at the end. *after your rounds to the top of your leg, you may be at a point on your left leg where it makes more sense to pull out a few stitches instead of adding some – that is totally fine as well – but, if making underwear/shorts just look at your doll and do what makes the most sense – you want to have your colored section even on both sides. I ended up pulling out a few stitches.
Slip Stitch into the inner most stitch of the LEFT leg and then chain 4 and slip stitch into the coordinating inner most stitch on the RIGHT leg to join the two legs. Start your work now in the next stitch. *you may want to mark where your slip stitch is as it may be tough to see later. (see photo)
R1: sc in each stitch around the right leg (14) and sc in each chain of the chain 4 space, sc around the left leg for 14, sc in the front of the chain 4 space (36)
Amy is a simple version of my doll with no hips. She is perfect to be a younger girl or just a simpler pattern. My other girl dolls have “hips” but for Amy and Jae-Lynn these rounds are different than my basic doll.
R2-9: sc around (36) – Amy is wearing a body suit/ shorts/ jumper/ clothes/ shirt/ whatever you want to call it. Feel free to change up this part to make it your own – make shorts/belly/bra, shorts/shirt etc. with different colors.
R10: for round 10 you are going to sc around, but you are going to make 2 dec on each side of the body for a total of 4 less stitches around. I put a stitch in between them. (32)
R11: sc around, but make 4 evenly spaced inv decreases. I did one on the front, one on each side and one in the back. (28)
R12-21: sc around (28)
R22: sc around, but inv dec 4 sc evenly around your doll – I did one on each side and two on the back with some sc between them (24)
R23: evenly inv dec 3 stitches on this round. I did one on each side and one in the back. (21) *change to skin color on the last stitch.
R24: *start stuffing* (sc 5, inv dec) 3 (18)
R25: (sc, inv dec) around (12)
R26: sc around (12)
**now, for this part I am resetting the numbers back to the #1 for rounds to make it easier.
HEAD *continue to work in a spiral
Round 1: sc around (12)
Round 2: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 3: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 4: *1sc in next three sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 5: *1sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Rounds 6-8: sc around (36)
Round 9: *1sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Round 10: sc around (42)
Round 11: On this round you are going to sc around, but you are doing 4 sc dec stitches on the very FRONT of face – that is 4 sc decreases over the front 8 stitches. Mark the front 8 stitches and then proceed. *You may want to mark where you are this round so you know where to finish* You will sc around until you reach the first marked stitch and then you will do 4 inv sc decreases over those 8 stitches. Then sc around to finish the round. You should end with 38 sc. *just make sure you do 4 inv dec sc on the FRONT of face and finish the rest of the round in sc. (38) **there are more photos of this part in my paid patterns if you need extra help, but here is one extra photo:
Round 12-13: sc around (38)
Round 14: For this round, you are going to do the opposite of what you did on Round 11– you are going to inc sc two rows above where you did your decreases. *again, photo tutorial is in my paid patterns. On ETSY HERE and RAVELRY
When you get done you will again have 42 single crochet.
The eyes are positioned under the most distant increase.
Rounds 15-17: sc around (42) *change to hair color on the last stitch of this round.
Rounds 18-20: sc around (42)
**place your eyes, eye lashes/brows, nose, mouth etc before you go any further. This part is largely up to you. The nose goes just above the center decrease stitches. You should have a natural pucker. You can choose horizontal across the middle 2 stitches or all 4 for a wider nose or vertical up and down starting between the center-most 2 decrease stitches.
Amy has a very simple face. She has safety eyes, a simple nose, mouth and some blush. Perfect for a little girl!
I also do my ears here before decreasing and stuffing, but you can also add these at the end if you prefer – or skip altogether if you are making hair that covers that area.
The ears are a simple circle like this:
Leave a short tail to start. Chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook make the following stitches: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, chain 3 and slip stitch back into first stitch and FO with tail to sew. The dc is the bottom of the ear – so, flip the second ear over when you sew. The ears get sewed on about 5-6 stitches behind the eyes with the top of the ear even with the eye. I use the two tails to tie on and then hide the tails inside the head.
Now, this part is optional, but if you have a Dollar Tree store it really, really does help because depending on how you do the hair, the head can be heavy. If you have access to a Dollar Tree (maybe other stores have them too) you want to grab a 6-pack of foam hair rollers. They are long tubes that offer support and slip right now the neck. See my photo. Use your finger or hook to move the stuffing around from the inside of the neck – make a “hole” down into the neck for several inches and insert the foam roller – then pack stuffing really good all the way around it. I have a link above in the materials section if you need to order these.
Start decreasing. Stuff as required. It is important to have enough stuffing, but not so much you pucker your stitches out. You do want your dolls to be firm.
On these next sc decreases – if you are covering the head with hair or a hair “hat” there is not any need to make invisible decreases, but you will want to make invisible decreases if your head color is your hair color or for short hair etc.
Round 21: *1 sc in next 5, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (36)
Round 23: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 24: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 25: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 26: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
FO and leave a long tail for sewing. AT this point you really want to make sure you have stuffed the head well. Keep making a “hole” in your stuffing at the top of the head with your fingers pushing the stuffing to the outside and shaping head/face. Keep adding stuffing until the head is firm, but not overstuffed.
Sew hole closed and weave the end inside.
There are two versions of hands in some of my doll patterns. One version uses a smaller hook and has a thumb crocheted separate that gets sewed on and the other version uses the same size hook as your doll and has no thumb that gets sewed on – it just has a “puff” stitch thumb.
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2) *There is a simpler hand version below this with no thumbs. I have used the simple hand/arm version below for Amy.
****I USE MY E HOOK FOR THESE*****
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) – continuous spiral
Round 1: Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc from round 1, make (1 sc, 2 sc)* repeat around (9) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 9 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
R3: *1 sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (12)
R4-5: sc in each stitch around (12) (12)
R6: sc 7, ch 3, skip 1, sc 4 (11sc and one chain 3 space)
R7: sc 7, 3sc in the space, sc 4 (14)
R8: sc 7, inv 3sctog, sc 4 (12)
R9: *sc in next 2sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (9)
R10-24: sc in each stitch around. Work in continuous spiral for 135 stitches
*turn arm so that the thumb “hole” is facing down and flatten the arm. Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body.
THUMB: join yarn to the side of the thumb space and sc evenly around for 6 sc. (R1)
R2: 6sc around
R3: dec sc around (3) FO and pull tail through hand before cutting. Shape thumb
*I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
(Amy/Simple version) Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2)
****I USE MY G HOOK FOR THESE*****these arms are my “simple” version of arms and have no add-on thumbs at the end.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) *work in continuous rounds
Round 1: 6sc in second chain from hook (6)
R2: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (9)
Rounds 3-4: sc in each stitch around (9)
R5: hdc4puff, sc 8
Rounds 6-7: sc in each stitch around (9)
R8: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
R9: sc in each stitch around (6)
R10: *1 sc, 2sc* around (9) *change color to shirt/sweater color (Amy)
Rounds 11-25: single crochet in each stitch around (9) in the shirt/sweater color.
R26: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
*turn arm so that the “thumb” is facing down and flatten the arm. Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body.
FO with tail to sew onto the body.
Amy’s Hair:
For her hair, I have used regular 4-ply yarn and my I hook.
Leave a tail at the start for sewing. Make a chain to fit around the bottom of the crocheted head/hair. (see picture)
You want it to be a bit snug because it will likely expand some as you crochet.
Join your chain to make a circle.
You will be making one strand/curl around/in each chain. (short or long this is up to you for the hair you want).
I have made chains 24-27 and then did the following back up each chain:
(hdc 2, hdc) 5-7x up the chain and then hdc all the way up the rest of the way and repeat this all the way around your starting chain. (see picture) – this way it curls jus a little on bottom.
You can make longer, thicker, curlier hair by making longer chains and then making double crochet instead of hdc. For example, if you make a long chain and then put 3 dc in each chain going up it will be really curly. You can also alternate like 3 dc, 2dc, 3dc, 2dc, etc. Just play with it. You can make all the curls different too because curls usually are all different.
For Amy’s hair, I did a dc in the front 14 chains for bangs instead of doing long curls up front.
Finish off with another long tail for sewing the hair on.
After sewing the hair piece on tie the two tails together and weave them into the head.
For Amy’s top curls, I started with a circle/hat and added ringlets – so,
Chain 2.
Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (Make 1 sc in next stitch, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Repeat the ringlets just like you did on the starting chain in each stitch around. Finish off with a long tail to sew this piece to the top.
I made a few extra purple ringlets and sewed them in for fun.
You can also make a “middle” layer of curls for thicker hair just by repeating the first chaining method like you started with and sew it in the middle of the other two layers.
Amy’s dress.
Please note that your dress may vary in size from mine depending on the materials you have used and your stuffing etc. The chain at the start of the dress should be snug on your doll. Please adjust your size to your doll and use this as a guide.
I have used my size I/5.5mm hook and some Patons Wool in the color Palais.
Chain 26 (again, you may need to adjust this – make it snug)
Starting in the second chain from the hook make a sc and sc in each chain to the end. (25)
Chain 1 and turn.
Rows 2-10 single crochet in each stitch and chain 1 and turn after each row to start the next row.
Now, turn your work a half turn and work down the short side row to make a few button holes. Your chain spaces below will be determined by the size of your buttons.
For me, I did this:
Chain 1 and half turn to work down the side.
Sc, sc, sc, chain 3, sc, sc, sc, sc chain 3, sc, sc, sc *you will be placing a sc in each row end. If you have larger buttons you may need a bigger chain.
Chain 1 and do a half turn. Hdc along the bottom edge (25 is what I got)
Join to the other side so that you now have a circle/ring.
Chain 2 (not a stitch) and make (dc, 2dc) around your circle. Join.
Chain 2 (not a stitch) and make (2dc, dc) around your circle. Join.
Chain up 2 and make a dc in each stitch around. Continue in this method for the length you want your dress to be. You can also do another round of the increases – the (dc, 2dc) around if you need a fuller skirt. Switch colors to make it colorful or add a row of sc between the dc rows in an accent color.
After the last row, I did this border – chain 1 then (sc, dc, picot, sc, dc, picot) repeat around. If you are unfamiliar with a picot stitch, you can also just (sc, dc, chain 2, sc, dc, chain 2)
For the arm holes: place the dress on your doll and mark where you need the arm hole to start and stop. On my example I needed the arm hole to start on stitch 3-4 and skip 3 stitches and stop on stitch 8-9. So, attach yarn back at the top of the dress on the back side. If you are using the exact numbers I have used: sc, sc, sc, chain 5, skip 3 stitches, sc 13, chain 5, skip 3, sc, sc, sc. Chain 1 and turn. (last row): dec sc, sc, place 5 sc in the chain 5 space, (dec sc) 3 times, sc, (dec sc) 3 times, place 5sc in the chain 5 space, sc, dec sc. Finish off and weave in the end.
Amy’s shoes:
Amy has very simple shoes. With a scrap of 4-ply worsted weight yarn and your H hook, you will chain 8. In the 2nd chain from the hook make a sc and then sc 5, 3sc in the last chain, work on the opposite side of the chain for sc 5 and make 2 sc in the last chain. Join to the first sc and chain 1. Work in rows with no increases for 5 more rows and then work around ½ of the row on the back of the shoe and make a little chain to go across the shoe.
Thank you XOXO, Amy
#thecalendarkids
#amyaugust
@theburgundybasket on IG would love to see your Amy dolls <3
See you next month!! <3
Kristi
