Let’s do this 2020 thing! If you didn’t see the post where all The Calendar Kids ©️ were introduced, you may enjoy seeing what is coming up each and every month this year. Every month this year, a new doll pattern will be here for you to enjoy for FREE! Make sure to pin this pin and come back on the first of each month for a new free pattern – or just follow my blog and you will get an email when I post new content.
Can’t wait to make all the dolls this year? Or want to combine a few patterns/clothes to custom make your own doll? You can find the entire 204 page E-book right HERE on Etsy. *I am in the process of modifying this to move parts that are redundant and make this smaller. So, stay tuned. If you prefer Ravelry, I also have them set up for you here – for Ravelry you have to put them all in your cart rather than in an eBook format. 
This is Fiona. Fiona is a simple girl. She isn’t fussy or complicated. She’s a little shorter than her friends, but short and sweet! She enjoys conversation, movies and hugs. The pattern is below and all of her parts are easily modified for color or style.
Did you miss Jenny January? If so, you might want to go back and check her out.
Fiona February – Fiona is a bit shorter than most of my dolls through the legs and torso. Fiona is made wearing her shoes and her jeans – they are crocheted on. Her head gets crocheted as you work up from the body so there is NO sewing of her head. You only have to sew on her arms. Her pattern gives you two arm versions. Fiona’s 16-page PDF contains the patterns for her t-shirt and beanie which are/can be made to be removable. Fiona has a lot of scrap yarn hair that is attached to a hair hat and there is a full tutorial with photos for this in the PDF. I have less tutorial here for the free pattern, but you should still be easily able to get her worked out.
I have more photos in her 16 page Etsy PDF. Prefer Ravelry? The PDF is the same and you can find that here
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then from any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
THE CALENDAR KIDS©️ Fiona February ©️
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family, so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern, please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Fiona February ©️ Is the second doll in a yearlong series of dolls. Each month in 2020, I will be making a new doll to accompany Fiona and all my dolls, will feature different, changeable clothing, hair and face techniques.
Fiona, and all her friends, can be found only right here. Join me this year as I make all my Calendar Kids ©️ Come to life. Find me at TheBurgundyBasket.com
All of my patterns are written using US Crochet Terms.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things.
Materials:
These dolls are designed to have stash-busting in mind. For many parts of these dolls you only need the smallest scraps of yarn. Even for the skin parts, you won’t need that much. I encourage you to dig through your stash pile. When you need larger amounts, I will make note of these on all of my dolls. My Calendar Kids ©️ range in size from 17-22”, but your size may vary depending on the yarn and hook that you use.
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for this for the most part. Any changes will be noted. These are the hooks that I use exclusively now. If you are going to buy yourself a crochet gift this year, let it be these hooks.
-I typically use Caron One-Pound for all of my Amigurumi, Dolls and Toys. It is a great, sturdy yarn that doesn’t get “splitty” when crocheting and it holds up well for little hands. I will note what my skin color is for each doll because Caron makes great skin tones! I will also note any different materials that I use.
–Caron One Pound in Espresso was used for Fiona’s skin tone. You will not use much at all of this. You are just doing her belly, head and arms.
–Caron One Pound in Lace was used for the shoe soles.
–Premier Everyday in Chinchilla was used for main body of shoes.
–Lion Brand Jeans Yarn in “Brand New” was used for the jeans/pants. It will take less than half a skein for this.
– Premier Everyday in Snow White was used for the t-shirt and a tiny big of pink scrap for the heart. You only need a small scrap ball for the t-shirt. Red Heart Soft in White is equivalent if you can’t find the Everyday.
-I made Fiona a beanie with Loops & Threads in Barcelona Breeze. This is super optional, but cute and I didn’t use much for her beanie.
-Fiona’s hair is made up of several balls of leftover black yarns. I had a big assortment of textures to chose from. One of my balls was a leftover piece of Lion’s Brand Homespun in black. If you have assorted textures to use it gives great hair texture, but if not just use what you have. You can make your doll’s hair in any color. *just as a side note – I almost used a ball of leftover black velvet yarn I had. I DO NOT recommend this type of yarn for hair. It falls off the string in clumps so overtime will not look good.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. I chose gold for Fiona’s eyes. It is a great color to go with her skin and the gold back really pops on her face.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer. Now, I am an avid toy maker and use a lot of stuffing, so I always get the 50-100 pound box at my JoAnn’s store when it is NOT on sale and I have a 50% off coupon. If you don’t have access to a local store with a box and are also an avid toy maker you can get this big box delivered for free.
Optional, but very nice for head support: 6-pack of foam rollers:
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
Hints and Tips for Stuffies, Ragdolls, Amigurumi etc.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Invisible Single Crochet 3 Together: inv3sctog
Double Crochet: DC
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
HDC Puff Stitch (x): hdcpuff(x): I use a half double crochet puff stitch for some parts of the dolls. Sometimes it a 2 puff, sometimes 3, 4, and sometimes 5. For example, to hdc puff (4) you will: Yarn over and insert hook into space, pull up a loop, yarn over and insert hook into space again and pull up another loop, (that’s 2), yarn over and pull up another loop (3), and finally, yarn over and pull up a loop for the 4th time. Now, yarn over and pull through all loops on chain. This is a hdc puff (4) – sometimes I will specify a 3 and sometimes a 2 – this is how many times you yarn over – it makes either a small or a large puff.
Basic Doll Feet/Legs with “Toes” (make 2) – my basic doll pattern has instructions on how to make feet and toes. You can use this pattern to make a bare legged doll if you like. I have modified this basic pattern to show you how I did the shoes and jeans.
For Fiona I have modified this pattern with instructions on how to make her shoes and jeans.
*continuous spiral crochet
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
If you are making a doll with boots or tennis shoes like Fiona just skip the puff stitched “toes” and carry on with regular single crochet. If you are making feet start with skin color. If you are making shoes/boots start with shoe color. For Fiona, I started with the Lace color for the shoe bottom.
Right Foot/Leg: (in Lace) Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook make 2sc, sc in the next 8st, sc 4 in last stitch, going along other side of chain: 8sc, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – you are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28)
Round 4:
4a: IF MAKING SOCKS/SHOES/BOOTS: R4: Sc around (28) and then GO TO Round 5 below.
4b: IF MAKING FEET: R4: sc 12, hdc puff 4, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 2, sc 11
R5: sc 8, (inv dec) 6, sc 8 (22)
R6: sc 5, (inv dec) 6, sc 5 (16)**on last stitch join your jeans/pants color
R7: sc around (16) *start stuffing*
*stuff leg firm as you go up. This doll can stand up when completed – at least propped up – but, the feet and legs need to be stuff firm.
R8-31: sc around (16) – that’s 384 stitches if you are working in the spiral –
**Once you get done with your FIRST LEG and you have cut your yarn, turn the leg upside down so the foot is up. Use your H hook (or next larger one from the one you are using) and attach pants color to the first row of pant stitches on Round 8 and DC around the entire bottom of leg. Using my H hook gave me a loose enough stitch that it flared out fine, but if you want to flare the bottoms of your pants more just add a few extra DC as you go around. FO when done and sew in your end.
Left Foot/Leg: DON’T FASTEN OFF THE SECOND LEG when finished.
For the left leg you will work exactly as the right leg if making shoes. If you are making toes this round below is different.
R4: sc 11, hdc puff 2, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 4, sc 12
IF YOU ARE MAKING BOOTS AND THEN THE FEET ARE THE SAME PATTERN.
NOW – hold both legs facing you with toes toward you. You want to be at the center part of the left leg –You are joining the legs on the inside edge, so sc around a few extra stitches if you need. Single crochet around the left leg until you get to the most “inside” stitch. This will NOT make any difference at the end. *you may be at a point on your left leg where it makes more sense to pull out a few stitches instead of adding some – that is totally fine as well.
Slip Stitch into the inner most stitch of the LEFT leg then chain 4 and slip stitch into the coordinating inner most stitch on the RIGHT leg to join the two legs. (see photo)
R1: sc around the right leg for 16, sc in each chain of the chain 4 space, sc around the left leg for 16, single crochet in the same chain 4 space in front of the other single crochets (40)
R2: sc around (40)
FOR GIRL DOLL you are now making “hips” – and going up to the BODY
R3: sc around, but make 1 inc sc in two places on the outside of the “hip” with at least one space in between – you will be adding 2 sc on each “hip” (44)
R4: sc around, but make 1 inc sc in 3 sc on each side of the hips with at least one stitch in between the increases. (You will be adding 3 stitches on EACH hip) (50)
R5-7: sc around (50)
R8: crochet around, but inv dec 3 sc on each side of each hip and inv dec one sc in the middle of the back. – and just like above: put a stitch in between them to keep it from puckering (43) (you are subtracting 3 sc from each hip and one in the back)
R9: sc around (43)
R10: repeat round 8, but instead of 1 sc dec on back you need to sc3tog (single crochet 3 sc together) on the center of back. (35)
R11: sc around (35) **change to SKIN color BUT don’t cut your Jeans color – just drop that loop and pull forward so it is on the outside of pants.
R12A: Back Loop Only (BLO) sc around (35)
R12B: drop your skin color loop and turn legs up so the shoes are up. Pick up your dropped jeans color and work in Front Loop Only (FLO) (just in front of where you just crocheted) work a hdc around to make a band for your pants. FO but leave a tail to sew down band.
** ***check your stuffing***
Don’t forget: now that you have cut your jeans yarn you need to go back and do a flared cuff at the bottom of the other leg.
And use your tail to sew down the cuff of your jeans/pants. I also used this tail to add a little button on front.
R13: in skin color again sc around (35)
R14: (sc 5, dec) around (30)
*add belly button if you want at this point. I just embroidered one with skin colored yarn and pulled through her back and cinched up a little to make her “waist.”
R15-18: sc around (30)
R19: sc around, but you will inc 2sc on each side of body with a stitch or two in between (34)
R20: on this round you will do 1sc in each stitch around, BUT, if you want to add “breasts” to your doll they are simply (3hdc, sc 5, 3hdc) straight up from the belly button. The 3 hdc are worked into one stitch. So, turn your doll and look at her and mark the 5 middle-most stitches and then mark the two stitches on each side of those to make the breasts. (there are several photos of this part for help in the PDF copy) If you find that you are already somewhere on the front of your doll at the start of this round, you want to pull back some stitches or add some single crochet to get around to the back so you can start the round not on the front of your doll. I always choose to add some stitches to start my rounds on the back of my doll. This will not make any difference on your finished product. (38)
R21: sc around, but when you get to the 3 hdc for each breast you will make one 3sctog (34)
R22: sc around, but dec 3 sc on the back (31) – where isn’t crucial, but space them out a few stitches each so you don’t get a “pucker”
R23: repeat R22 (28)
R24: *start stuffing* (sc, dec) around (19)
R25: (sc 2, dec) around (13)
R26: sc around but make just one dec sc somewhere (12)
R27: sc around (12)
**now, for this part I am resetting the numbers back to the #1 for rounds to make it easier.
HEAD *continue to work in a spiral
Round 1: sc around (12)
Round 2: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 3: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 4: *1sc in next three sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 5: *1sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Rounds 6-8: sc around (36)
Round 9: *1sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Round 10: sc around (42)
Round 11: On this round you are going to sc around, but you are doing 4 sc dec stitches on the very FRONT of face – that is 4 sc decreases over the front 8 stitches. Mark the front 8 stitches and then proceed. *You may want to mark where you are this round so you know where to finish* You will sc around until you reach the first marked stitch and then you will do 4 inv sc decreases over those 8 stitches. Then sc around to finish the round. You should end with 38 sc. *just make sure you do 4 inv dec sc on the FRONT of face and finish the rest of the round in sc. (38) ***There are a series of pictures in the paid copy of the pattern to help with rows 11 – 14. I have 7 extra photos in the PDF to help on the face. The first step is to find the middle of your face. I just use my crochet hook to make a line up from belly and mark the stitch.
Round 12-13: sc around (38)
Round 14: For this round, you are going to do the opposite of what you did on Round 11 – you are going to inc sc two rows above where you did your decreases. (again, if you have trouble you will get lots of help in the PDF) – so, the opposite of what you did earlier. When you get done you will again have 42 single crochet.
The eyes are positioned under the most distant increase.
Rounds 15-20: sc around (42)
**place your eyes, eye lashes/brows, nose, mouth etc before you go any further. This part is largely up to you. The nose goes just above the center decrease stitches. You should have a natural pucker. You can choose horizontal across the middle 2 stitches or all 4 for a wider nose or vertical up and down starting between the center-most 2 decrease stitches.
I am adding a closeup photo for you to see how I have done Fiona’s face.
Now, what I like to do is pop in my safety eyes and look at them to make sure I like the placement. For Fiona, I have given her some light blue “eye shadow” just above the eye. I like to do this part with the safety eyes in. Then, I pop them out and embroider my eye lashes on. This way I can get the lashes all coming out from the same place and fan out nicely.
After doing the lashes and tying off my ends I pop the eyes back in and make sure ALL LOOKS GOOD before I put the safety backs on. Once those backs are on, they are ON! It is really hard to do eyelashes if your backs are already on.
Now, this part is optional, but if you have a Dollar Tree store it really, really does help because Fiona has a LOT of hair and this makes her head very heavy. If you have access to a Dollar Tree (maybe other stores have them too) you want to grab a 6-pack of foam hair rollers. They are long tubes that offer support and slip right now the neck. See my photo. Use your finger or hook to move the stuffing around from the inside of the neck – make a “hole” down into the neck for several inches and insert the foam roller – then pack stuffing really good all the way around it.
Start decreasing. Stuff as required. It is important to have enough stuffing, but not so much you pucker your stitches out. You do want your dolls to be firm.
On these next sc decreases – if you are covering the head with hair or a hair “hat” there is not any need to make invisible decreases.
Round 21: *1 sc in next 5, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (36)
Round 23: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 24: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 25: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 26: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
FO and leave a long tail for sewing. AT this point you really want to make sure you have stuffed the head well. Keep making a “hole” in your stuffing at the top of the head with your fingers pushing the stuffing to the outside and shaping head/face. Keep adding stuffing until the head is firm, but not overstuffed.
Sew hole closed and weave the end inside.
The ears are a simple circle like this:
Leave a short tail to start. Chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook make the following stitches: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, chain 3 and slip stitch back into first stitch and FO with tail to sew. The dc is the bottom of the ear – so, flip the second ear over when you sew. The ears get sewed on about 5-6 stitches behind the eyes with the top of the ear even with the eye. I use the two tails to tie on and then hide the tails inside the head.
There are two versions of hands in some of my doll patterns. One version uses a smaller hook and has a thumb crocheted separate that gets sewed on and the other version uses the same size hook as your doll and has no thumb that gets sewed on – it just has a “puff” stitch thumb.
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2) *there is a simpler version of the hands/arms below that have no thumbs.
****I USE MY E HOOK FOR THESE*****
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) – continuous spiral
Round 1: Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc from round 1, make (1 sc, 2 sc)* repeat around (9) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 9 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
R3: *1 sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (12)
R4-5: sc in each stitch around (12) (12)
R6: sc7, ch 3, skip 1, sc4 (11sc and one chain 3 space)
R7: sc7, 3sc in the space, sc4 (14)
R8: sc7, inv3sctog, sc4 (12)
R9: *sc in next 2sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (9)
R10-24: sc in each stitch around. Work in continuous spiral for 135 stitches
*turn arm so that the thumb “hole” is facing down and flatten the arm. (photo tutorial in PDF) Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body.
THUMB: join yarn to the side of the thumb space and sc evenly around for 6 sc. (R1)
R2: 6sc around
R3: dec sc around (3) FO and pull tail through hand before cutting. Shape thumb
*I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up or READ THIS POST. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2)
****I USE MY G HOOK FOR THESE*****these arms are my “simple” version of arms and have no add-on thumbs at the end.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) *work in continuous rounds
Round 1: 6sc in second chain from hook (6)
R2: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (9)
Rounds 3-4: sc in each stitch around (9)
R5: hdc4puff, sc 8
Rounds 6-7: sc in each stitch around (9)
R8: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
R9: sc in each stitch around (6)
R10: *1 sc, 2sc* around (9)
Rounds 11-25: single crochet in each stitch around (9)
R26: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
*turn arm so that the “thumb” is facing down and flatten the arm. Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body.
FO with tail to sew onto the body. See note above about steaming the arms if you do this type of arm.
Hair:
For Fiona’s hair, I went through my huge yarn stash and got out all my leftover balls of black. Using different yarns gives you great texture!
I started with a plain worsted weight yarn and made a hair-hat. This step isn’t absolutely necessary, but I find it much easier to pull strands of yarn through the hat instead of the head. The poly tends to get pulled out just using the head. If you do make a hair hat it needs to be THE SAME COLOR or as close as you can to your hair. In this way any bald spots are not noticed. So, here is how I made Fiona’s hair hat:
With your H/4.5mm hook: Ch 3. DC in the 3rd chain from the hook 8 times. Join to make a circle and chain up 2 or 3. This part isn’t important, so if you like to chain 3 and count that as your first stitch do that – if you don’t chain up 2 and then dc back into that same space. Make 2 dc in each stitch around (16). Now, just like the increases in the doll, you will increase to 24 on the third round (dc 2 in one stitch, dc in the next and repeat around) – for round 4, you are going to 32 dc so you will (dc 2 in one stitch and make one dc in the next two stitches and repeat around). Repeat 32 dc around for rounds 5 and 6. Now, switch to making rows -so, after you join round 6 and chain up 2/3 make 20 dc around, but stop at 20 and chain 2 and turn. Go back the same way you came from for another 20 dc. And repeat one more time. This is what your hair hat should look like:
After the hat is made it will sit on your dolls head like this (you will attach hair first) but to show you the position it is. The sides of my hair piece lie about 8 stitches behind mouth. Make sure to get the sides centered on head before sewing.
To make the strands of hair, I wrap around a book.
I do the strands all at once and then cut down the middle. Now, all your hair is done. You will loop them through the stitches on your hair hat in the quantity you want. I did 2-4 strands per double crochet on my hair hat. You can make thinner hair by using less per double crochet or even skipping a row on the hair hat.
For Fiona’s t-shirt:
Leave a long tail at the start for sewing.
Ch 33
- Hdc 32 across. Ch 1 and turn
- Repeat row 1
- Skip 1st hdc, hdc 29, hdc dec (30)
- 2 hdc dec, hdc 22, 2 hdc dec (26)
- Hdc 5, ch 3, skip 3, hdc 10, ch 3, skip 3, hdc 5
- 2 dec hdc, skip hdc, 3 hdc in hole, dec hdc 5, 3 hdc in hole, skip 1, 2 dec hdc
- Sc across the top and TO with a tail for sewing.
Now, you will attach the yarn to the arm hole and sc evenly around for 12. Now, do as many rows as you want for the length of sleeve you want. I did 4 rows for Fiona’s tshirt. * I added a small crochet heart on the front. You can add any crochet applique or any applique for that matter or leave plain.
I used the two tails to sew up the t-shirt after putting it on Fiona. You can choose to add a few small buttons/or snaps on back to make her clothes changeable.
I made Fiona a fun beanie to go with her outfit. Here is how I did her hat.
With your I hook you will make a chain to the HEIGHT that you want her hat remembering it will be cuffed. After you get the right chain height hdc across the chain. Keep working in rows in BLO until it fits around the head. Then seam it up.
For me and my yarn I used I did a chain 25. Hdc 24 and 28 rows. Slip stitch closed to make tube and then SINGLE crochet along one of the openings.
Thank you XOXO, Fiona February
#thecalendarkids
#fionafebruary
@theburgundybasket on IG would love to see your Fiona dolls <3
