Ginger is the latest pattern in my Farm Series! You can checkout most of my Farm Series patterns right here on my blog or purchase the PDFs with hints and tips for all through my Etsy. The free blog patterns don’t contain all my hints/tips or photographs like my paid patterns, but they do give the basics.
UPDATE: October, 2020: head on over to THIS POST to see a new, fully written out, free pattern for a baby version of my goat pattern.
It seems like it has been a decade since I released Polly and Puff Chicken. Polly and Puff are the 9th in my Farm Series and on Etsy right HERE. . So much going on this month, but, I finally finished Ginger the Goat and she is so sweet! I just love her face. Amigurumi just makes me so happy – each animal has their own personality at the end and making them is so joyful! She is available as a PDF from my Etsy right HERE. I only have two more animals left in this series – I have a sheep/lamb and I decided to add a barn cat. The sheep/lamb will be next and will be made similar to my Butterbean Bunny and her baby, Clover in that I will make a mom and child – one a little larger and different than the other with different materials. I should have those done next week unless anything crazy happens.
UPDATE: I have set up my 14-Pattern Bundle Set. All patterns can be downloaded as one set on Ravelry or Etsy. More info on THIS POST
Did you meet Haybelly the Horse? Or Digger the Donkey? I also have Barley the Beagle and Butterbean the Bunny with a free addition to her pattern for her baby, Clover. And the three patterns before those were the sweet Dixie the Duckling, Cocoa the Cow, and Peaches the Pig. And don’t miss Lambert the Llama – he’s my most visited pattern to date here on my blog.
You can also purchase BUNDLES of these patterns at a reduced price. I have my first four on a bundle HERE and the second four HERE and if you purchase any of these two, I will send you baby Clover for FREE if you send me a message from Etsy after your purchase. My last patterns will be available in my last bundle and I also plan to do the entire Farm Series if I can get it in one download.
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
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Materials:
-Yarn: Lion Brand Heartland in Yosemite. (251yds, 230m, 142g) I have used 1.5 skeins. ***A note: After working up the head, I realized that this yarn works up a bit smaller than my other animals and a typical #4 yarn. So, if you have made more of my Farm Series you will notice this animal to be a little smaller if you use the same yarn. This pattern is adapted from my Cocoa the Cow pattern and although the patterns are virtually identical, Ginger worked up about 10” smaller overall. Cocoa measures almost 30” with Caron One Pound Yarn and Ginger measures just over 20” with the Lion Brand Heartland yarn, but I really wanted a reddish-brown goat and this was the most beautiful color like that in my area.
Material note to help you plan: With the first skein of Heartland yarn, I was able to do the head, body and outer ear circles. I only had to use the second skein for the 4 legs. This may help you plan if you want to adjust your colors. This yarn is located at my JoAnn’s – if you don’t have one of those in your area this is the same yarn I used:
Lion Brand Heartland in Yosemite
-The horns and hooves are Caron One Pound in Taupe.
-The inner ear and nose are Premier Everyday in Terracotta Heather. You only need a small amount of yarn for this.
-I used the tiniest bit of leftover yarn from my Lambert the Llama pattern to make Ginger a little hair on top and used a few strands in her tail. I had just a very small ball and used a very small amount of that – so, any furry or fuzzy scrap yarn you have will be perfect. Or you can choose to not do any hair.
-Hooks: G, H and I are used for this pattern.
-These are the hooks I use exclusively now. They have helped end any hand pain I had.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. These are the eyes that I used for Ginger. They have a metallic pink backing that slips under the eye and are slightly sparkly.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
If you are new to crochet or just want to upgrade your supplies this is a fabulous kit. I have this kit – it comes with all you see and it a great price for the quality.
Stitches Used:
Chain: Ch
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Hdc: Half double crochet
Slip Stitch: sl st
FO: finish off
This is a simplified pattern as stated – a chart with the numbers – you need to have knowledge of crochet amigurumi and how to do rounds and increases to read. If you do it will be pretty straight forward. **all of my paid for patterns come with a “cheat sheet” to help with this part.
I start my work with a chain 2 and then sc in second chain from hook, but you can also start with a magic ring if you prefer that start.
This pattern starts with nose and works back to head and then the body is worked. I will make notes along the way to assist with this. Of course, you don’t have to do it that way, but I love to make all my head parts and sew it up and have my animal look at me while I finish up the body =)
Nose/Head: G hook for all of the head and body. NOTE: it is very important for good sewing and invisible stitches that when you plan your colors the neck part of the body needs to be the SAME color as the back of the head.
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 |
| 5 | 30 |
| 6 | 36 |
| 7 | 42 |
| 8 | 48 |
| 9 | 54 |
| 10 | 60 |
| 11 | 66 |
| 12 | 72 |
| 13-17 | 72 |
| 18 | 66 |
| 19 | 60 |
| 20 | 54 |
| 21 | 54 |
| 22 | 48 |
| 23 | 48 |
| 24 | 42 |
| 25 | 42 *this is where I stopped to make up the nose and get that sewed on and make the mouth. I find it easier to sew the face parts on before stuffing and closing. See below this chart for the Nose instructions. My nose got sewed between rounds 10-20 and I embroidered the mouth down to around row 5. |
| 26 | 36 |
| 27-34 | 36 |
| 35 | 42 |
| 36 | 48 |
| 37 | 54 *my eyes went here between this round and the next. There are about 10 holes between them. I gave Ginger some eyelashes so make sure you do that BEFORE adding your safety eye backs if you are using safety eyes – so, pop in the eye, make lashes, pop on the back. |
| 38-42 | 54 – Start stuffing |
| 43 | 48 *my ears are sewed around rounds 42-43 |
| 44 | 42 |
| 45 | 36 |
| 46 | 30 |
| 47 | 24 |
| 48 | 18 |
| 49 | 12 |
| 50 | 12 |
Nose: with your H hook, chain 2 and make 1 sc in the second chain from the hook. Chain 1 and turn.
Row 2: make 3 sc in the sc from row 1. Chain 1 and turn.
Row 3: inc sc, sc, inc sc (5) Chain 1 and turn.
Row 4: inc sc, sc, sc, sc, inc sc (7) Chain 1 and turn.
Row 5: sc across the row (7) Chain 1 and turn.
Row 6: inc sc, sc 5, inc sc (9) Chain 1 and turn.
Row 7: sc across the row (9) *if you are going to outline in a different color like I did, change color in the last stitch and sc evenly around the nose putting 3 sc in each corner. FO with a long tail to sew down and make mouth.
Ears (make 2): *I used my I hook for these to get them bigger and floppier. I also chose two colors: inner ear (pinkish) and outer ear (body color)
These are basically just two circles crocheted together at the end.
Make 2 pieces in your inner ear color and two in your outer ear color. FO the inner ear circle and weave in your end, but DO NOT FO the outer ear colored circle when you are done.
Ch 2. In Hdc make 10 hdc in second chain from hook
*working in continuous spiral make 2 hdc in each stitch around (20)
(make one hdc in next stitch, two hdc in next stitch) repeat around (30)
(make one hdc in the next 2 stitches, two hdc in next stitch) repeat around (40) ** see note below
After your ear color circle is complete hold both the pink and ear color piece together with Wrong Sides facing in to each other and sc around both pieces to join. Now, FO the ear with a long tail for sewing. After the pieces are joined you will fold them in HALF with the long tail at one end and then sew up about 7 stitches. I chose to sew back down again so that my tail would be ready to sew the ear on the head. (your tail should now be back where you started) *just in case you missed it earlier, I sewed my ears between rounds 47-48)
NOTE: As I mentioned above in my materials section, the Heartland yarn worked up to be smaller for me than the inner ear color so I had to adjust my pattern for this. If you are using the same materials as I do or you get the outer ear to be a little smaller, just add one more row of increases to the outer ear color circle. So, it would be: (make one hdc in the next 3 stitches, two hdc in next stitch) repeat around (50). Now, you might think, “but how am I going to stitch together the two pieces if they have a different number of stitches?” – like this: When you are working your sc round to stitch the two pieces together simply go into the inner ear twice every 4th stitch. Since you will be working evenly on the outer ear stitches at 50 sc, you will sc two times in the inner ear only every 4th sc stitch. I hope that is not confusing.
HORNS
With your H hook and taupe (or your hoof color) make a simple circle: chain 2 and make 6 sc in second chain from hook. I work in continuous spiral, so for Round 2 make: (1 sc, 2 sc) around for 9 sc. Now you will do Rounds 3-7 with no increases (9 sc) – or working in a continuous spiral that is 45 sc. Round 8: (1sc, 1sc, 2sc)*around (12). Rounds 9-13: single crochet in each stitch around (12). FO but leave tail for sewing. Lightly stuff. I sewed my horns just behind my ear and a little closer to each other than the two ears. Make sure you have enough stuffing to keep the opening at the bottom open while you sew them on. Pin in place and make sure they are even before you sew.
Body: G hook. I used the same color from the back of my head for the body. I feel that you need to probably use the same color from back of head as you do on at least the upper body to make your sewing blend in and be invisible. It will require good sewing for this head because it is large. You do not want to do all this work and then have visible sewing stitches due to the fact that you have two different colors. The body starts from the bottom up and we leave an opening at top for the neck. You want to pin your head in place and make sure to stuff the neck VERY well before final stitches to support the head. This large head needs lots of support. You will want to use more stuffing than you think you need.
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 |
| 5 | 30 |
| 6 | 36 |
| 7 | 42 |
| 8 | 48 |
| 9 | 54 |
| 10 | 60 |
| 11 | 66 |
| 12-21 (10 rows) | 66 decrease starts now |
| 22 | 60 |
| 23-24 | 60 |
| 25 | 54 |
| 26-27 | 54 |
| 28 | 48 |
| 29-30 | 48 |
| 31 | 42 start stuffing |
| 32-33 | 42 |
| 34 | 36 |
| 35-44 (10 rows) | 36 keep stuffing |
| 45 | 30 |
| 46 | 30 |
| 47 | 24 |
| 48-49 | 24 stuff, stuff, stuff |
| 50 | 18 FO *leave super long tail to sew on the head. |
Feet/Legs (make two):
I used my G hook and started with my Taupe color. ** leave a long tail AT THE BEGINNING of your work. About 12 inches at least. This will be used to make the hoof. These are big round feet. They are big. If you want your feet/hands to be smaller just don’t do my final increases and start the decrease instead. They will still be fabulous! I also stuff the feet/hands VERY well and not so much in the arms and legs.
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 |
| 5 | 30 *make sure your long tail is on the outside. |
| 6 | 36 |
| 7-14 | 36 |
| 15 | 30 |
| 16 | 24*if you are using different colors change color here for leg color on the last stitch. |
| 17 | 24 |
| 18 | 18 |
| 19 | 12 |
| 20-49 (30 rows) | 12 *FO leave long tail to sew. I sewed mine between rounds 6-10 |
Yarn tail through your embroidery needle. Use the long tail to go up to the top of the hoof part and insert your needle and go back down (through the inside) and out in the same place you started and pull tight to cinch up the foot. I did this part four times before tying off and hiding my yarn inside. Try to get the yarn in and out of the same two holes (one on the beginning and one on the top) each time.
Arms/Front Legs (make two with G hook):**you will leave a long tail for these as well – just like foot – and shape hoof the same way.
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 |
| 5 | 30 |
| 6-11 | 30 |
| 12 | 24 |
| 13 | 18 *if changing color change here on the last stitch. |
| 14 | 18 |
| 15 | 12 |
| 16-45 (30 rows) | 12 *FO but leave long tail to sew |
TAIL
The tail on my goat is a simple small braid. I cut 6 pieces of yarn about 8 inches in length and pulled them through round 15 on the back half way so that I had 12 half lengths of yarn coming out of the back and then divided them into 4-piece sections and braided them. Cut off to even up when you get your braid as long as you like. Goats have shorter tails – nubs – so, you can even make a nub for a tail by using the horn pattern and making it the length you want instead of a braided tail. I used a little furry yarn and the body color yarn for my tail.
And that is it! I’d love to see all your finished animals over @theburgundybasket on IG
And I like to bring you some of my favorite things! I am a big “amazoner” and these are some things that are my recent favorites or gifts or things I have used in my local business.
