When my page friends over at my Facebook Page – also called The Burgundy Basket – suggested that I make Frosty the Snowman – I could.not.wait!!!! And here he is! My example is just over 20″ with my materials, but I feel confident that if I had made him with my usual Caron One Pound yarn he would be closer to 30″ – so, let’s get to it!
UPDATE JANUARY 2024
My 2024 Update CONTAINS A FULLY WRITTEN OUT BEGINNER FRIENDLY PATTERN that includes both my original snowman and this new Snowwoman. You can find the fully updated pattern at both my Etsy and my Ravelry stores.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog and truly offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then of my PDF patterns or a visit to any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. Thank you.
So, with that said, here is my Etsy PDF downloadable/printable version.
If you are a Ravelry User you can also GET THE PATTERN HERE
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern, please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
This FREE VERSION REMAINS THE ADVANCED CHART FORM, BUT IF YOU WANT TO GET THE FULLY WRITTEN OUT BEGINNER FRIENDLY VERSION THAT IS A PDF WITH 14 PAGES AND PICTURES HOP ON OVER TO MY ETSY OR RAVELRY.
Materials: These patterns and the updates use an assortment of yarns from my stash. I prefer to use Caron One-Pounder yarn for my toys and large crochet patterns, but for this pattern I had some white and slightly fuzzy yarn from Big Twist Classic and used it instead. It is labeled a #5 yarn, but it does NOT work up like a #5 yarn. This is the second time I have used it for one of my large patterns and it works up smaller than a #4 yarn like Red Heart Super Saver. You will not even use half a skein of this yarn. I feel certain that if I make this pattern with my normal Caron One Pound Yarn that my 20” snowman would be closer to 30”. I have also used an assortment of scrap yarns for the nose, mouth, mittens, scarf and brown “stick” arms. Use what you have in your scrap basket for these parts. Only a tiny bit of each color is needed.
UPDATED Pattern: for the update to this pattern where I made the Snowwoman and a second version of the Snowman, I used Big Twist Value (380yds/6oz/347m/170g) – you will need one full skein for each one. With this yarn they came out to be almost 22” and 24”
-Hook: I used a G hook for most of this pattern. I will note any exceptions to this below in the different parts.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. I chose to use some cool buttons from my button bowl and chose different ones – I love making faces with slightly different buttons and find that it gives a funny character to the faces.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
This is a simplified version – a chart with the numbers – you need to have knowledge of crochet amigurumi and how to do rounds and increases to read. If you do it will be pretty straight forward. But, again, my updated version is fully explained and written out.
I start my work with a chain 2 and then sc in second chain from hook, but you can also start with a magic ring if you prefer that start.
This pattern starts at the bottom of the body and then gets work up to the top of the head in one piece and then the arms and legs are added.
Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
1 | 6 |
2 | 12 |
3 | 18 |
4 | 24 |
5 | 30 |
6 | 36 |
7 | 42 |
8 | 48 |
9 | 54 |
10 | 60 |
11 | 66 |
12 | 72 **stuff as you need all the way up |
13-22 (10 rows) | 72 |
23 | 66 |
24-28 | 66 |
29 | 60 |
30-34 | 60 |
35 | 54 |
36-40 | 54 |
41 | 48 **check that stuffing! I can’t stress how important stuffing properly is. |
42-46 | 48 |
47 | 42 |
48-52 | 42 |
53 | 36 |
54-58 | 36 Stuff stuff stuff – you want good support |
59 | 42 |
60 | 48 |
61 | 54 |
62 | 60 |
63 | 66 |
64 | 72 |
65-84 (20 rows) | 72 *this is where I stop and make up the face before decreasing and stuffing. NOSE: the nose is a simple circle with 6 sc and then 3 more straight rows of 6 sc. (chain 2 and make 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook and then make 3 more rows of one sc in each stitch) |
85 | 66 |
86 | 60 |
87 | 54 |
88 | 48 – are you stuffing well? |
89 | 42 |
90 | 36 |
91 | 30 – you can always fit in more stuffing =) |
92 | 24 |
93 | 18 |
94 | 12 |
95 | 12 – finish off and leave a tail to weave and sew opening shut. |
Feet/Legs (make two):
Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
1 | 6 |
2 | 12 |
3 | 18 |
4 | 24 |
5 | 30 |
6 | 36 |
7-14 | 36 |
15 | 30 |
16 | 24 |
17 | 18 |
18 | 18 |
19 | 12 |
20-39 | 12 *FO leave long tail to sew to body |
Mittens/Arms (make two): *I used some Red Heart Super Saver for my mittens and my size H hook. I wanted to make “stick” arms and so I did them different than my other patterns, but just in case you would rather make white arms to match the legs I have left my regular pattern instructions for alternate arms in this pattern. If you do regular arms, just make the bottom of the arms in your mitten color and change to white and then go back and add a small thumb if you want.
Here is my pattern for the Mittens to start my “stick” arm version. The next chart has my regular arms.
Starting in your mitten color:
Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
1 | 6 |
2 | 12 |
3 | 18 |
4 | 24 |
5-11 | 24 |
12 | 18 *after you complete your 18 stitches for this round make a chain 4 and then skip 4 stitches and go to round 13. |
13 | 18 *put the last 4 stitches into that chain 4 space. |
14-16 | 18 |
17 | 12 |
18 | 18 |
19 | 24 *finish off and weave in your end. Go back up to the hole you made for the thumb and attach your yarn for the thumb. For the thumb you will make 12 sc evenly around the hole. Now for thumb: |
Thumb Round 2 | 9 |
3 | 6 |
4-6 | 6 Finish off and sew closed and weave in the end. |
For the “stick” arms grab your brown color and your size I crochet hook.
If you want to make them shorter than mine just crochet less chains.
Leave a long tail before and after to tie.
Chain 50 and double crochet in each chain back up your chain. (I started in my 3rd chain from the hook, but this part is your preference – it won’t matter at the end).
When you get back up the chain make another chain 50 (or your number if you shortened the length) and double crochet again back up the chain and repeat this one more time so you have this:
After you do this part, tie up those long ends.
I then took the ends and tied them in a bow around my chair so that I could get a good tight braid.
Braid up those three pieces:
After I finished my tight braid, I made a big knot at the bottom to secure my braid and also make a piece for the mitten to slide onto:
Now take your mitten and secure it over the braided “arm.” I have secured by tying on a chained length of green. *Make sure when you sew the arms on that you position the right and left thumbs in the right direction – I almost had two right arms.
Now, here are your “regular” arm instructions if you prefer just plain arms. You can make these in white to match the legs.
Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
1 | 6 |
2 | 12 |
3 | 18 |
4 | 24 |
5 | 30 |
6-11 | 30 |
12 | 24 |
13 | 18 *if changing color change here |
14 | 18 |
15 | 12 |
16-45 | 12 *FO but leave long tail to sew |
Scarf:
I have crocheted a simple scarf in red and green. My scarf is made with my size I hook and red and green scrap yarn. I have started with a chain 9 and hdc 8 back across the chain and then made 8 hdc in each row with a color change every 4th row. TO keep from weaving in my ends, I carried the yarn up the side of the scarf at the end of each round and then finished the scarf with a sc around to hide the yarn carry.
Hat:
The hat was made with black #4 yarn and my size H hook. I have used hdc for the hat and my numbers and increases are like this:
*note, still working in the round, but for me when I am working in a continuous spiral and working in half double crochet, my first stitch on round 2 is a sc and then I continue in hdc. This gives a nice smooth transition between the rounds. When working in continuous spiral you don’t get a seam.
Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
1 | 8 *this increase pattern adds 8 stitches each round and is worked the same way other increase rows are worked |
2 | 16 (2 hdc in each stitch around) |
3 | 24 (1hdc, 2hdc)* |
4 | 32 (1 hdc, 1hdc, 2hdc)* |
5 | 40 (1 hdc, 1hdc, 1hdc, 2hdc)* etc |
6 | 48 repeat established pattern |
7 | 56 |
8 | 64 |
9-16 | 64 |
17 | 56 |
18 | 48 |
19 | 42 |
20 | 48 |
21 | 56 |
22 | 64 |
23 | 72 |
24 | 80 |
And that is it! I hope you love him as much as I do and I would love to see all of your creations so tag me @theburgundybasket over on IG.
I have a new way for you to support my FREE PATTERNS!! I know many or most of you love supporting us makers – the truth is that is takes a long time to create a pattern and then write it and then edit it and get it proofed and tested – and then publish it – then you have to link it everywhere – it’s a lot of work, but us makers do what we do to share our love with you. And, if you have followed my blog, you may know that I do not run ads on my blog, so all my support comes from PDF purchases. Some of you don’t need to purchase the PDF of my patterns, but still want to say a quick Thank you – so, you can now support my blog and my work.