I have had so much fun already this year and it’s only April! If you are following my IG, FB or here you know that I am making my head dreams come alive! I have been wanting to make a whole series of farm animals for a very long time! They have been coming to life right here and I couldn’t be happier with them. Here on my blog you can find most of those patterns. Peaches is my latest and you can find her here – Peaches the Pig – and in her post is a link to the other six animals in my Farm Series. I am working on a llama next so pin and come back to find him.
Concurrently, on my Facebook page – also called The Burgundy Basket – I am running a year-long A-Z challenge where the people on my page are making suggestions for the letters of the alphabet to challenge me!! And some have absolutely been a challenge.
When I posted the letter “D” and Dinosaur was suggested, I felt a little giddy inside my heart!! I love dinosaur patterns. I have made a few patterns from others, but since this is the year I am trying to break out as a designer myself, I decided that I was going to make a family of dinosaurs and what better way to start the family than with a little! So, I took a mini break from the farm to go back to prehistoric times.
Meet Scrappy the Dino! Scrappy is the 4th dino in the family and brother to Pea and Strawberry. Strawberry the Sweet Dino, is my 3rd dinosaur pattern also here on the blog. You can find his mom, Violet the Lady Dino HERE and Pea the Little Dino HERE. – they are also both made with Bernat Pop! cake yarn. Lord Green, his dad, is up next and he’s a giant that you don’t want to miss!
Scrappy the Dino is actually a modification to my Pinky the Dragon pattern. It is a fully written out pattern and on my PDF in Etsy you will find a lot more tips and tricks and additions to the pattern like a tail, horns, spots and baby scales and more photos than what I can put here with the placement of everything. This might be a confusing pattern without all the photos, but in the PDF there are a lot of photos on where to put everything as well as the additions that I left in from Pinky.
Let me start with my materials so you can make your Scrappy. I’ll note all the materials I have used and then you can decide how to make it work for you.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things and what I have used for this pattern.
Materials:
You can get exactly the products I used through my affiliate links.
Materials:
Scrappy uses ½ a cake of Bernat Pop! Leftover from my Pea the Little Dino. He uses all the rest of that ½ cake and some random scrap balls of the leftover yarn from his sister, mother and dad – Strawberry the Sweet Dino, Violet the Lady Dino and Lord Green – that is how he got his name – I’ve used all my scrap materials from all the other dinos to make him – all Bernat Pop! These are the colors I chose for my family of dinosaurs, but you can choose so many other colors in this line of yarn.
**** A note on using Cake Yarns. If you are new to amigurumi or using cake yarns, I thought this tip would be important. You want to read the pattern (or look at my pictures) and note which body parts you want in which color from your cake. As you get to those colors on your cake you probably want to make small parts FIRST. So, say, I finished off my body and wanted that next color to be the outer ear or the nose or the top tail section – or all of those – make those small parts FIRST – this ensures you get that little piece made in the color you want before moving onto a larger section. You want to try to plan if you want your finished dino to have matching legs, ears, etc. If you see my example, I wanted Baby Pea to have scales in each of the colors so I made sure to make those as well.
-Hooks: G, H and I were used. Unless noted otherwise, I have used my G hook. You will see a note when I use my H/I. These are the hooks I use everyday and when working amigurumi they are a hand saver!
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. These are the newest safety eyes that I’ve ordered from Amazon and I AM SO HAPPY with them. They are some of the best ones that I’ve purchases from Amazon and I love that I can get just a few pair in each color in this nice big size. The backs are really great too. As a toy maker, I am very very happy with these eyes.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
This all-in-one-crochet kit is perfect if you want to start crocheting amigurumi and don’t have all you need yet. I ordered this as a gift and it comes with all you see. It has ergonomic hooks, needles, stitch markers and comes in this great case. This is a really nice set! I have opened it and looked at everything. So, if you are on a budget and can’t quite justify the Clover hooks try these instead.
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Stitches Used:
Chain: Ch
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
HDC: half-double crochet
HDC Inc: increase in HDC
DC Inc: increase in DC
DC: double crochet *US Terms apply
Head:
***This pattern is a modification of my Pink the Dragon pattern and as such I have left some of the photo tutorials from that pattern in this pattern – this is why some photos will not be the same color as Scrappy.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 5: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 6: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 7: 1 sc in each stitch around (36)
Round 8: *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Rounds 9-11: 1 sc in each stitch around working in a spiral (42)(42)(42)
Now we will start our decreases
Round 12: *sc in each of the next 5 sc, dec sc* repeat around (36)
Round 13: sc in each stitch around (36)
Round 14: ***place a stitch marker here in the first stitch.*** sc in each of the next 20 sc, chain 10, slip stitch in marked first stitch, (see photos). Chain 1 and sc in each stitch around (30)
Round 15-16: sc in each stitch around (30)(30)
Round 17: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Rounds 18-20: 1 sc in each stitch around (36)
Now, before you continue see photos now for this part. You are going to fold in half and place 2 markers where shown in the photos (the pink yarn). These markers are going to help you place the nose. See photo:
This last photo is what it should look like when you start round 21.
Round 21: ALL OF THIS ROUND IS FRONT LOOP ONLY After placing stitch markers – the pink yarn and one marker at the start of this round (metal in photo) we will resume our rounds. SC in FRONT LOOP ONLY (FLO) until you get to 4 stitches from the stitch marker on front of face. In next 3 stitches HDC. In next stitch place two DC in SAME stitch. In next stitch place one TRC (treble crochet). In next stitch place 2 two DC. Now, HDC in next 3 stitches. **those hdc, dc, and treble series of stitches I will refer to as a “shell” simply for reference** – now for the rest of the round sc around until you get to the stitch marker remembering to go into (FLO)
Round 22 is entirely worked in the free back loop that you just left behind the stitches from round 21. (see above photo) You will place one single crochet in each back loop behind the stitches you just worked from round 21. There are only 36 back loop stitches.
Round 23: for this round we are going to sc around the entire piece (36), but we are going to single crochet together the front and back crochet from the round before to join them together. (see photos) – you are simply crocheting through the loops of both stitches. ***exception – for the “shell” you will simply crochet in the loops behind the “shell” to leave it free. This is the nose of our dragon. (see photo above. Just fold it down and work behind)
***Now stop here for a bit. We are going to add eyes, eyebrow if you want and do the face before we continue.***
Do eyebrows above eyes as you prefer after attaching eyes.
I attached the eyes for Scrappy 6 rows behind the nose with 5 stitches in between.
Now we will continue. Round 24 is a decrease round: We are going from 36 down to 30:
Rounds 24: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 25: sc around (30)
*now if you like add “nostrils” with black yarn across the two double crochet of the “shell” as shown.
Decrease continues.
Round 26: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 27: 1 sc in each stitch around (24)
Round 28: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 29: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
Round 30: inv dec around to end with 6 sc.
Embroider mouth as you wish.
Body:
Start body at back of head (see photo) – sc around piece *I got 29. This part isn’t crucial – you may get a few more or a few less. It is okay. Just make sure your stitches are evenly spaced and don’t look puckered. It should be around 30.
On the second round we are going to decrease to get 20 sc. You want to decrease this round evenly from whatever you had on the previous row. Just decrease around using inv. dec to get 20 stitches. So, for me since I had 29, I did (1 sc, 1 dec) around.
Rounds 3-4: Sc in each stitch around (20)(20)
Start stuffing head and stuff as you go.
Round 5: Increase this round by 4 evenly spaced stitches to end up with 24.
Rounds 6-8: sc around (24)(24)(24)
Round 9: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Rounds 10-12: sc around (30)(30)(30)
Round 13: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 14: sc around (36)
Round 15: *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Round 16: sc around (42)
Round 17: *1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (48)
Rounds 18-22: sc around (48)
Now we will continue with the body decreases and stuff as you go.
***Start Decreasing
Round 23: *sc in each of the next 6 sc, dec sc* repeat around (42)
Round 24: *sc in each of the next 5 sc, dec sc* repeat around (36)
Round 25: *sc in each of the next 4 sc, dec sc* repeat around (30)
Round 26: *sc in each of the next 3 sc, dec sc* repeat around (24)
Round 27: *sc in each of the next 2 sc, dec sc* repeat around (18)
Round 28: *sc in the next sc, dec sc* repeat around (12)
Round 29: sc dec around (6) FO and sew opening closed.
Tummy Patch
For the tummy patch I used two different colors. Feel free to use whatever two+ colors you like. I used the leftover from my other dinosaurs so I just used what I had. I also don’t cut my yarn on each color change, but rather run it up the side of my work that way there is nothing to weave in.
For the tummy patch you will chain 1 and turn after each row.
Chain 5. Sc in second chain from hook and across (4)
Row 2: Sc across (4)
Row 3: Inc, sc, sc, Inc (6) *this is where I joined my new color
Rows 4-5: sc across (6)
Row 6: Inc, sc (4), Inc (8)
Row 7: sc across (8) *change color
Row 8: sc across (8)
Row 9: inc, sc (6), inc (10)
Row 10: sc across (10)
Row 11: inc, sc (8), inc (12) *change color
Rows 12-15: sc across (12) *change color
Row 16: dec, sc (8), dec (10)
Row 17: sc across (10)
Row 18: dec, sc (6), dec (8)
Row 19: sc across (8) *change color
Row 20: dec, sc (4), dec (6)
Row 21: sc across (6)
Row 22: dec, sc, sc, dec (4)
Row 23: sc across (4)
Sc around the entire piece to even out the edges and hide your yarn if you carried it up the side. Leave a long tail for sewing when you finish off.
Feet/Legs (make two):
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Rounds 5-7: 1 sc in each stitch around (24)(24)(24)
Start your Decreases and stuff as you go. Stuff how it is easiest for you. I usually stuff around my 18 sc round. Stuff the feet firm, but don’t over stuff the legs. I didn’t add any stuffing to my legs.
Round 8: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 9: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
Round 10: sc in each sc around (12)
Round 11: repeat round 8 (9)
Repeat Round 11 with one single crochet in each stitch around until you reach the length you desire for your legs. I ended up with 15 total rows in my example.
Finish off, but leave a long tail for sewing to the body.
Arms (make two):
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (15)
Rounds 4-6: 1 sc in each stitch around (15)(15)(15)
Start your Decreases and stuff as you go. Don’t overstuff your arms. I only add stuffing to the bottoms in the “hands” and leave the arm free.
Round 7: *sc in next 3 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (12)
Rounds 8: (sc dec over the next 2 stitches) x 2, then sc in the next 8 sc (10)
Rounds 9-18: sc in each sc around (10)
Finish off, but leave a long tail for sewing to the body.
Ears (make 2) – USE YOUR H HOOK
Chain 3
Make 10 dc in the 3rd chain from hook and join with a slip stitch to your first dc to form a circle (10dc)
Chain up 2 (does not count as a stitch) and make 2 dc in each stitch around (20). FO and crimp bottom and sew a few stitches closed to keep crimped. Sew to head.
Back “Ruffle” or “Baby Scales”
With your I hook you are going to chain the length needed to go from the top of the body to the rump. (see photo) *note you may want to make this part just shy of the length you want because when you add your stitches it will lengthen a bit**
My chain ended up being 40.
Sc down the chain. Chain 1 and turn.
In each stitch you will (hdc, dc, hdc)
FO at the end with a long tail to sew.
As always, thank you for choosing this pattern. I would love to see all of your creations!
And that’s all! I hope you love making him as much as I did. Please tag me on IG with all your finished dinosaurs @theburgundybasket #scrappydinosaur
