I have a new way for you to support my FREE PATTERNS!! I know many or most of you love supporting us makers – the truth is that is takes a long time to create a pattern and then write it and then edit it and get it proofed and tested – and then publish it – then you have to link it everywhere – it’s a lot of work, but us makers do what we do to share our love with you. And, if you have followed my blog, you may know that I do not run ads on my blog, so all my support comes from PDF purchases. Some of you don’t need to purchase the PDF of my patterns, but still want to say a quick Thank you – so, you can now support my blog and my work.
UPDATE DECEMBER 2020: I have been asked by several people to please make the grouchy guy a coat and Santa hat – so I did!! I have completely updated my PDF to make some grammar/wording changes, one pattern correction and included his coat and hat at no extra charge!! You can find my NEW 14-Page PDF in my ETSY SHOP. Enjoy!!
The coat and hat are a gift to my Etsy shoppers so they are not free on my blog, but at only $1.99 for the entire pattern it is a fabulous value. Thank you for supporting the Small Business Pattern Writers with your purchases.
This is it! The big finale! How could I – as mainly a toy maker – not do a large, stuffed toy in my 12 Days of Christmas? I hope you all love this big guy as much as I do!! He makes me laugh! No kidding that while working on him – after I stuffed his belly – I giggled!! – and I was alone so I am sure I looked crazy! How can you not giggle and smile at this beast? I have a PDF JUST of The GRINCH right here on my Etsy.
I also have added this entire bundle to my Ravelry 
See link below for all 12 Days in my Etsy Store.
This 12-Days of Christmas blog event has been one of the biggest crochet things I have done. I have worked so hard the last 14ish days, but I feel so happy! I did it! I challenged myself and almost entirely eliminated my stash and I ended up with this big happy beast!
I hope you have enjoyed all 12 days – even the garland day – if not you can find links to the other days right here:
FREE patterns for Christmas – stockings, trees, gnomes, decorations, gift bags and more. Lots of photo tutorials.
All of these posts have a different pattern and fun information.
These patterns are intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern, please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then or a visit to any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
Materials:
Yarn: Caron One-Pound in Limeade – you will need at least ½ of this large skein ~400yds
For my second version shown above, I couldn’t find the Limeade color, so I chose I Love This Yarn in Keylime. (7oz/199g/355yds/325m) I had a good size ball leftover, but I would plan on most of a skein for this project.
You will also need scraps of white and black or dark green for the eyes. If you are also making the Santa Coat and Hat, you will need red and white for those.
I used Red Heart in Cherry Red and Red Heart Hygge in Snow. You won’t need much of these two yarns/colors.
I chose to use safety eyes for this project and used an 20mm size.
Hooks: G/4mm. The coat and hat are made with a size I/5mm hook
Optional: 2 foam rollers like these. Available at most all $1 stores.
Pattern writing notes: if I write 2sc it means make 2sc in the same space but writing sc 2 means make a sc in the next 2 stitches.
This pattern starts at the feet and works up the leg. You will make two legs but DO NOT FINISH off the second leg. They will get joined and then the body gets added. The only thing that gets sewed on are the arms.
My finished Grinch inspired stuffie measures 26” tall. If you use different materials, I cannot guarantee that your finished project will look like mine or be as large.
*I work almost exclusively in a continuous spiral for all my work. I do not join. I do not chain up- so, that is not written in the pattern. If you prefer to work that way, please do however you are most comfortable. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place.
Chain 2.
R1: Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
R2: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (6)
R3: 2 sc in the first stitch, one sc in the rest of the stitches (7)
R4: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (7)
R5: 2 sc in the first stitch, one sc in the rest of the stitches (8)
R6: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (8)
R7: 2 sc in the first stitch, one sc in the rest of the stitches (9)
R8: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (9)
R9: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (12)
R10: (Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (15)
R11: (Make 1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
R12: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
R13-17: 5 rounds: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (24) – if working in the spiral that is 120 stitches
R18: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
R19-20: 2 rounds: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (18) – spiral count is 36 stitches
Start stuffing and stuff as needed.
R21: sc in the next 10 stitches, inv dec over the next 8 sc (this is 4 inv dec) (14)
R22: sc in the next 10 stitches, inv dec over the next 4 sc (this is 2 inv dec) *these two decrease stitches are in the decrease stitches from the row before. (12) *lightly stuff foot
R23: sc in the next 8 stitches, inv dec 2 over the next 4sc (10)
R24: inv dec, sc in the next 6, inv dec (8)
R25-26: Make 1 sc in each stitch around (8) *note: if you are choosing to use foam rollers to help the foot bend up, please check your opening here to make sure your roller will fit. Mine was an exact fit, but if you have a tighter gauge or are using different materials you may need to stop the decrease above at R23 and skip the last decrease.
R27: (2sc, sc 3)* (10)
R28: sc in each stitch around (10)
R28: (2sc, sc 4)* (12)
R29-30: sc in each stitch around (12)
*insert your roller here if you are using one as it may be difficult later. I just twisted around and it went in like a bolt.
R31-48: You are now going to work straight with no increases or decreases for 18 rows. That is 12 stitches around for 18 rows. For spiral crochet that is 216 stitches.
R49: (sc 3, inc sc) repeat around (15)
R50-59: You are now going to work straight with no increases or decreases for 10 rows. That is 15 stitches around for 10 rows. For spiral crochet that is 150 stitches. For only the first leg, finish with a slip stitch and cut yarn.
Stuff top of leg (quad) very well.
After finishing the second leg, do not fasten off, but figure out the shape of your legs/feet and how you want them to point/turn/stand on your finished piece and hold them together. You are going to be joining them with a chain 2. You want that chain 2 to be in the middle of the inside of the legs. So, on your second leg you may need to either work a few extra stitches or pull back a few to join them together. Please check the position of your legs and make sure they are how you like them before you join.
You will slip stitch in the stitch that your chain 2 will start on the second leg, chain 2 and slip stitch on the other leg on the mirror side.
Body:
R1: After joining the legs, you will crochet evenly around each leg and in the chain 2 – both on the front and back of the chain 2- that will give you 34 stitches – 15 on each leg and 4 in the chain 2 space (front and back)
Rounds 2-3: Sc around in each stitch. (34)(34)
R4: On this round you need to make 2 inc sc evenly. I chose to make one inc sc on each side of the body (36)
Okay, this is where you need to start shaping the tummy. You will be doing traditional amigurumi counts as far as increases go – 36 to 42, 42 to 48 etc, but you will be making all of the increases on the stomach side. The first step is to lay your work down and find the sides of the stomach.
You can see in these photos how I marked the stitches. All of the increases are going to be made just in the belly area. First, sc until you get around to the left side marker.
R5: For this round you will be increasing from 36 to 42 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. For example, I had 14 stitches in between my markers -so, I added my increases like this:
2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc 4, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc (42)
R6-7: sc in each stitch around (42)
R8: For this round you will be increasing from 42 to 48 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Do the increases evenly like on Row 5.
R9-11: sc in each stitch around (48)
R12: For this round you will be increasing from 48 to 54 stitches – that is 6 increase stitches – all on the front like before.
R13-15: sc in each stitch around (54)
***now the tummy starts decreasing. You will do inv sc dec evenly on front just like you did the inc sc.
R16: For this round you will be decreasing from 54 to 48 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Inv dec evenly like above.
R17-18: sc in each stitch around (48)
R19: For this round you will be decreasing from 48 to 42 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Inv dec evenly like above. (42)
R20-21: sc in each stitch around (42)
R22: For this round you will be decreasing from 42 to 36 stitches – that is 6 stitches – all on the front. Inv dec evenly like above. (36)
R23: sc in each stitch around (36)
***on these next decreases you can go back to traditional decreases.
R24: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
R25-28: sc in each stitch around (30)
Start stuffing and continue as needed.
R29: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
R30-31: sc in each stitch around (24)
R32: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
R33-34: sc in each stitch around (18)
Stuff, stuff, stuff *stuff GOOD!!! You need this neck to be firm
*this is the part where I just started giggling because it turned out just like I wanted!
R35: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
R36-39: sc in each stitch around (12)
R40: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
R41: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
R42: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
R43: sc in each stitch around (30)
R44: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
R45: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
R46: sc in each stitch around (42)
R47: *you will be doing 6 more increases on this round, but like above for the belly, you need to place all 6 of the increases on the front of the face. The cheeks specifically. Place 3 inc sc on each side of the face for the cheeks. You can see in this photo where I have marked where I placed the 3 inc sc on each side of the face. Each of my marked stitches in the photo gets 2sc in each one. You are going from 42 to 48 stitches.
R48: sc in each stitch around (48)
R49: repeat round 47, but space them out more – like: sc, inc sc, sc, inc sc, sc, inc sc
You are going from 48 to 54 stitches.
R50-51: sc in each stitch around (54)
R52: Decreases start now, BUT these decreases need to go above the same place over the cheek where the increases are for shaping. So, find your increase stitches and make your decreases straight up from where those are. On R52 you go from 54 back to 48. The 6 inv dec stitches are on the cheeks only.
R53: sc in each stitch around (48)
R54: repeat round 52. You are going from 48 to 42 stitches.
R55: back to traditional decreases evenly spaced around. Go from 42 to 36: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
R56: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
*Check your stuffing in the neck and make sure it is stuffed very well. It must hold up the head.
R57-66: sc in each stitch around (30) *stuff the lower head and cheeks and shape. This part really makes a difference to the face so push the stuffing around and shape the face carefully.
*I choose to do my eyes and face and sew everything on before I sew the head shut so that I can make sure all my ends are tied and secure from the inside. If you also prefer to do this, skip down to the eyes pattern and finish the face and then come back up to here.
R67: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
R68: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
R69: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
R70: sc in each stitch around. FO and leave a tail to sew closed.
*I made a short tassel and threaded the tails from the inside the head to the outside and tied them before sewing.
Eyes: with white: Chain 2 and make 5 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. Chain 1 and turn.
Make 2sc in each stitch across (10) Chain 1 and turn.
Make (1 sc, 2sc)* across (15) *on the last stitch change to a darker green or black color. Chain 1 and turn.
In green or black, work down the flat side. Make 6 evenly spaced hdc across the flat side. Chain 1 and turn.
Sc in the first 5 hdc, 2hdc in the last hdc, 2hdc in the next white stitch on the eye and then slip stitch in next. FO and leave a long tail to sew. This long tail is the outside, upper edge of the eye. If you use it to sew down the eye toward the nose you can use these tails to also embroider the nose. Use the photo below for placement.
I added safety eyes in the center of the white before I sewed the eyes down.
I used black to make some frown lines and the mouth.
Arms: Leave a long tail because these arms start at the shoulder and work toward the fingers so you will use that long tail to sew the arm to the body.
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. Now, pull that long tail back out the top of the arm for sewing later.
Round 3: (Make 1 sc in next stitch, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4-5: sc in each stitch around (18)
Round 6: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
Rounds 7-16: sc in each stitch around (12) *you can add a bit of stuffing to just the shoulder or not. I did not in my first example, but in my second one I did.
Round 17: (sc, sc, inv dec) * (9)
Rounds 18-27: sc in each stitch around (9)
Fingers: Slip stitch in the next stitch, chain 6, sc back up this chain for 5 sc, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 6, sc back up the chain for 5 sc, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 7, sc 6 back up the chain, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 8, sc 7 back up the chain, slip stitch in the next 2 stitches, chain 6, sc back up the chain for 5 sc. FO and use the tail to sew the hand shut.
It is best to now take the arms to your steam iron and relax them a little with a bit of steam. This will soften and relax the arms and fingers. I also gently pulled on mine to lengthen them a little. Now, sew onto body.
Now, if you’ve made it this far in my FREE pattern and love him why not grab a quick, inexpensive PDF to dress him up? Find his PDF for only $1.99 right now in my ETSY SHOP. I appreciate you and all your support and Sharing is Caring so please share and tag me @theburgundybasket
OH MY GOODNESS! That is it. Thank you so much for joining me and Merry Christmas, 2019! Follow my blog for big things in 2020!!! All your pins and repins and visits help me – so, thank you.
Thank you for purchasing my pattern. Please let me know if you need any help or find any problems. I’d love to see all of your creations over @theburgundybasket on IG
I have a new way for you to support my FREE PATTERNS!! I know many or most of you love supporting us makers – the truth is that is takes a long time to create a pattern and then write it and then edit it and get it proofed and tested – and then publish it – then you have to link it everywhere – its a lot of work, but us makers do what we do to share our love with you. And, if you have followed my blog you may know that I do not run ads on my blog so all my support comes from PDF purchases. Some of you don’t need to purchase the PDF of my patterns, but still want to say a quick Thank you – so, you can now support my blog and my work.
And here are some of my favorite latest Amazon finds. I keep these or give them as gifts.
Do you have a Santa coat for him?
No. Maybe I’ll add a coat and hat in the future <3
To have a coat would be awesome!! He just seems not quite done without a hat and coat!!
It would be super cute for sure. My example has already found a new home so it would be hard for me to measure – but, I bet there is a 18” doll coat in crochet available online that would fit him perfectly. Even a Santa hat
Thank you 🎅🏼
I bought the pattern Dec 8 2019. I was the one who suggested you make him a Santa coat and hat. Could I get a copy of the updated pattern with the coat?
Jeannie please reach out to me via Etsy so I can verify your order and I’ll send it over. Thank you