Peaches the Piggy is the latest pattern in my Farm Series! You can checkout all my Farm Series patterns right here on my blog or purchase the PDF with hints and tips for all through my Etsy. The free blog pattern doesn’t contain all my hints/tips or photographs like my paid patterns, but it does give the basics.
Peaches is the 7th animal in my Farm Series. Did you meet Haybelly the Horse? Or Digger the Donkey? I also have Barley the Beagle and Butterbean the Bunny with a free addition to her pattern for her baby, Clover. And the two patterns before this one were the sweet Dixie the Duckling
and Cocoa the Cow.
You can also purchase the BUNDLE of the first four at a discount.
They are available as instant downloads on Etsy. You can purchase the full pattern of Peaches HERE and Cocoa right HERE on Etsy. Dixie can be found on Etsy as well right HERE
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
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Materials:
For this pattern I have used Red Heart Super Saver in Baby Pink (364 yds/333m) and some scraps of Red Heart in Sea Coral (peach) and Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca in Taupe. I did use most of my skein of the RHSS in Baby Pink so please make sure you have most of a full skein.
Peaches is almost 22’ tall so she needs some yarn.
-Hook: G and H size are used.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. *I have used a set of safety eyes that I can no longer find online, but I just ordered these for my next few animals and I have to say – these are by far the best safety eyes that I have ordered from Amazon (except when Sassy Bears used to sell on Amazon) but the quality and size of these eyes is far superior to any of the others I have ordered. There are not any pink, but they do have some great colors.
These eyes are also really good. They have a clear front and a glittery back that you put behind the clear part to make the eyes colored. I ordered some blue for a doll I am doing and I really like these. The backs are nice too – sometimes you get eyes and they have crappy backs, but these are nice. I wish they came in a bigger assortment of colors, but they do have a variety pack.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
And this is my favorite bag when my project has to travel with me! It’s the perfect project size and I can see all that is inside and when I take it places and people see inside it starts conversations. I love this bag! I have several to organize different projects.
Stitches Used:
Chain: Ch
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Hdc: half double crochet
DC: double crochet
Picot: chain 3 and then slip stitch back into either the 3rd chain from the hook or the stitch where your chain 3 starts.
This is a simplified pattern – a chart with the numbers – you need to have knowledge of crochet amigurumi and how to do rounds and increases to read. If you do it will be pretty straight forward.
I start my work with a chain 2 and then sc in second chain from hook, but you can also start with a magic ring if you prefer that start.
This pattern starts at the top of the head and goes into body without breaking off your yarn. It finishes off under the body.
Head/Body:
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 |
| 5 | 30 |
| 6 | 36 |
| 7 | 42 |
| 8 | 48 |
| 9 | 54 |
| 10-14 | 54 – Place safety eyes if you are using them between rounds 12-13 with 9 holes between them. |
| 15 | 48 |
| 16 | 42 |
| 17 | 36 |
| 18 | 36 |
| 19 | 30 |
| 20 | 24 |
| 21 | 24 |
| 22 | 30 |
| 23 | 36 |
| 24-25 | 36 |
| 26 | 42 |
| 27-30 | 42 |
| 31 | 48 |
| 32-34 | 48 |
| 35 | 54 |
| 36-37 | 54 |
| 38 | 60 |
| 39-40 | 60 |
| 41 | 66 |
| 42-44 | 66 |
| 45 | 72 |
| 46-50 | 72 |
| 51 | 66 |
| 52 | 60 Start stuffing and continue to stuff as needed |
| 53 | 54 |
| 54 | 48 |
| 55 | 42 |
| 56 | 36 Keep stuffing |
| 57 | 30 |
| 58 | 24 |
| 59 | 18 |
| 60 | 12 |
| 61 | 12 FO with a long tail to sew closed |
Feet/Legs (make two): *with your H hook. I started with Taupe and switched. ALSO LEAVE A LONG TAIL OF ABOUT 12” WHEN YOU START TO HELP MAKE THE FOOT after you crochet the bottom part of the foot make sure you have pulled this tail out to the outside of the work.
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 |
| 5 | 30 |
| 6-13 | 30 – change color on last stitch |
| 14 | 24 |
| 15 | 18 – stuff lightly |
| 16 | 12 |
| 17-40 | 12*FO leave long tail to sew |
After completing each leg/arm you will yarn your needle and pull up to the last row of the foot color and then back into the center of the starting round and then back up again and pull to cinch. I did 3 wraps before finishing off. See photos:
I sewed the legs directly to the middle of the bottom even with each other.
Front legs or / Arms (make two): *with your H hook. I started with Taupe and switched. ALSO LEAVE A LONG TAIL OF ABOUT 12” WHEN YOU START TO HELP MAKE THE FOOT after you crochet the bottom part of the foot make sure you have pulled this tail out to the outside of the work.
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 |
| 5-9 | 24- change color on last stitch |
| 10 | 18 |
| 11 | 12 |
| 12-32 | 12*FO but leave long tail to sew |
I sewed the arms between rows 27-28 of body. Make sure you have repeated the cinching up of the “foot” for the front legs (or arms) as well.
Ears(make 2): *I used my I hook for the ears. These are worked in rows and not rounds.
Chain 2
1 sc in 2nd chain from hook. (chain 1 and turn now and after each row)
You are going to be making a sc inc at the beginning and end of every row so that each row is 2 sc more than the row before. The increases stop at 11sc for two rows and then go up one more.
3 sc
5 sc
7 sc
9 sc
11 sc
11 sc
11 sc
13 sc
Make 3 more rows of 13 sc each row.
After you get done fold the ear in half and slip stitch the end stitch to the beginning stitch of that row. You are essentially making a circle in the bottom of the ear. After you slip stitch to join the two sides you will work in the round : (1 sc, 1 dec sc) all around. FO and leave a tail to sew.
I chose to border out my ears in my peach color. This is optional, but I think the border with the picot stitch really makes these the cutest.
Attach your border color to the bottom of the ear (close to where you finished off) and sc evenly all the way around EXCEPT at the point of the ear do the following stitches all in the same place: sc, hdc, dc, picot, hdc, sc)
*now – a break – I talk all the time here on my blog about the important of STEAM BLOCKING and how it really alters the look. It softens, shapes, relaxes and makes your work look much nicer and more professional. This is a great place for me to show you what a difference this makes. You won’t get the full benefit because you can’t feel the difference, but for some parts like ears, arms, and dangly bits steam blocking really makes a huge difference.
In these photos I steam blocked the right ear (the right ear on the pig, but it will be on your left) but not the left ear at first. Then in the bottom photos I have the left ear not steamed and then steamed. It made a huge difference! Research this! You never want to touch your iron to your work or get it too close (there is another process called “flattening” and I do this sometimes for embroidered letters and that involves a damp/wet cloth and actually touching the iron to the cloth over your work) but, we are not doing that. Just a little steam to soften and relaxed and shape. It dries in seconds! I made a blog post about steam blocking and you can read that HERE.
Snout: I used my G hook for the nose
I started the nose in my peach color and then switched. I also used the same foot color for the nostrils.
| Row/Round | Stitch Count/Number |
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4 | 24 – change color |
| 5 | 30 |
| 6 | BLO 30 |
| 7-9 | 30 FO with tail to sew |
Tail: I used my H hook for the tail
Chain 26.
Slip stitch in the 2nd chain from the hook and in the next 2.
2sc in each of the next 10 chains
(1hdc, 2hdc) 6 times to end.
Sew between rounds 47-48
