I am beyond excited – thrilled – and maybe a bit crazy by this point – but, THE FINALE IS DONE!
Did you see Part 1 that I posted yesterday? If not read more ON THIS POST
No time right now? Here is a pin to save and come back.
THIS IS PART 2 AND DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO MY THE FUN HOUSE SQUARE OR A SMALLER WALL HANGING.
Want a fun way to use your scraps? Want to make a lot of little projects/toys that are great for little ones? Want to custom a special piece for a wee one? – and then end with one big finale? This project is for you! (And you can skip the big finale if it’s not for you and still have all the little toys and ABCs.)
This idea is completely customizable to your space or make up a smaller one. On this post, I will give you step by step instructions on how to make The Fun House Square that is on this piece and the big finale piece.
I haven’t added the letters/monograms to this particular example above, but that is the idea. This would be such a cute nursery gift!! Make a pocket hanger with monograms and the toys that go with each initial.
I actually made one of these as a nursery gift. Here is a horizontal take on the same idea.
I have compiled the monograms/letters of this event in a convenient downloadable PDF if you prefer to print them out and have them all in one place. And my printable paid patterns contain a lot more photo tutorials to help you if you need.
I have the entire wall hanging finale in my ETSY shop with The Fun House Square RIGHT HERE.
The Finale PDF is 12 pages and contains everything you need except the letters to make any of the wall hangings.
If you’ve been waiting to purchase the PDFs until the end now is your chance!! I can’t even believe they are all finished or that I am giving away everything for this one small price.
MY ENTIRE COMPLETE SERIES OF THE TOYS PLUS A BUNCH OF EXTRAS IS NOW AVAILABLE.
There are OVER 60 patterns in this final bundle!!! 60+ toys patterns.
And MOST ALL of my PAID patterns contain way more photos and tutorials than what I can add to my blog post. I try to keep my fees very low.
If you prefer to shop on Ravelry for your patterns I also have the entire alphabet PDF over there. 
I will try to work on uploading these to Ravelry if you prefer Ravelry for your patterns, but it will be a while. If you are familiar with Ravelry, you may know that I have to upload each one separately over there – I can’t list bundles together so each and every small toy must have it’s own page. That will take me a while, but I will try to get it done. I don’t believe I will be able to do it all this year.
Make sure to check out THE ORIGINAL POST to link hop to each one of the FREE TOY PATTERNS here on my blog.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then or a visit to any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc or Inc or 2sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Gauge is not super important, but you want a stiff fabric for the back hanging part to be sturdy enough to hold weight.
For my two smaller versions, I held two strands of 4-ply type yarn together and used a size I/5.5mm crochet hook for the background piece. For the squares, I used my size H/5mm with Caron Cake yarn on the vertical one and my size I/5.5 mm hook with other scraps of #4 worsted weight yarn in the horizontal one.
This is a great stash buster!
Fun House Square:
Yarn: any yarn and hook will work for this, but to get the size I have in my examples, I have used 4-ply worsted weight yarns like Red Heart Super Saver and Caron Cake. For the Caron Cake, I used my size H/5mm hook and for the RHSS types yarns on the big giant wall hanging, I used my size I/5.5 mm hook. You can go down a hook size or two for smaller squares or go up a bit for a slightly larger square.
This square starts as a circle and then changes into a “square” shape.
Working in the CONTINUOUS Round:
*I do not join and chain, but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this if you want so that you don’t lose your place.
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in. You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 6: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 7: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Round 8: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)
Round 9: (1 sc in next 7 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (54)
Round 10: (1 sc in next 8 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (60)
Round 11: (1 sc in next 9 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (66)
Round 12: (1 sc in next 10 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (72)
Now the pattern starts to change the circle to the square. Feel free to change colors here if you want the look I have. If you are, cut your yarn and weave in your end or work over the tail in the next round.
NOTE: once you start doing dc – ch – dc in the corner spaces do NOT miss the first double crochet on the side of your work just after the corner. It is easy to do and you might need to move the double crochet in your corner over a little bit to see the double crochet from the round below that you will work in.
Patter note: if I write sc 8 it means sc in the next 8 stitches, but if I were to write 2dc it means 2 dc in the same next stitch.
Round 13: attach new yarn in any space. If you have not cut your yarn join and chain 1 here.
[8 sc, hdc 3, dc, (2dc, ch 1), 2dc, dc, hdc 3] * repeat in the [] until you get to the end. Slip stitch to the first sc and chain 1.
Round 14: if you are using the same strand of yarn continue in this 1st sc. If you are adding a new strand join in the first sc on any side.
[8 sc, hdc 3, dc 3, (dc, ch 1, dc in the corner ch 1 space from the round below), dc 3, hdc 3] * repeat in the [] until you get to the end. Slip stitch to the first sc and chain 1.
Round 15: if you are using the same strand of yarn continue in this 1st sc. If you are adding a new strand join in the first sc on any side.
[8 sc, hdc 3, dc 4, (dc, ch 1, dc in the corner ch 1 space from the round below), dc 4, hdc 3] * repeat in the [] until you get to the end. Slip stitch to the first sc and chain 1.
Round 16: if you are using the same strand of yarn continue in this 1st sc. If you are adding a new strand join in the first sc
on any side.
[8 sc, hdc 3, dc 5, (dc, ch 1, dc in the corner ch 1 space from the round below), dc 5, hdc 3] * repeat in the [] until you get to the end. Slip stitch to the first sc.
Round 17: Change up: if you are using the same strand of yarn slip stitch into the next sc (this is the 2nd sc from the round you just did and one over from where you are). If you are adding a new strand join in the second sc on any side.
[sc 6, hdc 4, dc 6, (dc, ch 1, dc), dc 6, hdc 4] repeat in the [] until you get to the end. Slip stitch to the first sc.
Round 18: Change up: if you are using the same strand of yarn slip stitch into the next sc (this is the 2nd sc from the round you just did and one over from where you are). If you are adding a new strand join in the second sc on any side.
[sc 4, hdc 5, dc 7, (dc, ch 1, dc), dc 7, hdc 5] repeat in the [] until you get to the end. Slip stitch to the first sc.
PATTERN NOTE: on some of my squares in my large A-Z wall piece, I changed color for the last two rounds and on some of them I only changed color on the very last round.
Round 19: Change up: if you are using the same strand of yarn slip stitch into the next sc (this is the 2nd sc from the round you just did and one over from where you are). If you are adding a new strand join in the second sc on any side.
[sc 2, hdc 4, dc 10, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc), dc 10, hdc 4] repeat in the [] until you get to the end. Slip stitch to the first sc and chain up 1.
Round 20: if you are using the same strand of yarn you are in the right spot, but if you are adding a new strand join in the first sc on any side.
[sc 2, hdc 2, dc 14, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc), dc 14, hdc 2] repeat in the [] until you get to the end. Slip stitch to the first sc and chain up 1.
Now you will sc in each stitch around. You may also choose to hdc in each stitch around if you want a slightly larger square. In each chain 2 corner space you can choose your favorite granny square corner. I typically do either a (2sc, ch1, 2sc) OR 3sc in each corner. For the two smaller vertical and horizontal wall hangings I did (2sc, ch1, 2sc) in each corner space, but for the large project I did 3sc in each corner.
For the large wall hanging in the big finale, I chose to do a surface crochet around the center circle when I was finished. This is optional and purely decorative.
After you are done cut and weave in the end. If you are making similar to what I have made, you will also want to roll up a small ball of your final color yarn for sewing. If you go ahead and roll up a small ball and pin or keep with your squares you will have it all ready at the end. This is also helpful if you are going to be using that color again and risk running out since you might want to sew each square on in the same color as the outside.
It is helpful at the end to steam block your squares. I steam block almost everything I do like this including things like the letters.
After all your squares are made – if you haven’t already – decide on how you are going to orient the final piece:
This one above was a nursery gift so I added the monograms to each square and sewed them on.
Also, decide how you want to hang it up – for the top example, I was using a curtain rod so I added in extra length to fold over the curtain rod, but for the bottom example I made ties to tie it onto my dowel.
In this next example, the squares are about 13”
Decide the arrangement you want: vertical or horizontal and then measure how big you want the back. For this vertical piece, I decided on 16” and did sc with my size I/5.5mm hook holding two strands of yarn. For this vertical example, that was a starting chain of 61 with 60 sc across. The horizontal one above is made the same I just did it the other direction.
Who wouldn’t love this as a gift? Who wouldn’t love this hanging in their house somewhere? So many great uses for this – not just for a nursery either!!
These hints are from my finale piece, but I will leave them here if you plan to alter this to a larger version.
Helpful hints:
If you are using monograms, pin them in place before stitching them down.
Stitch everything in place before you sew. Everything. I made up each row of squares and then added my letter and then sewed a row down before moving onto the next row – but, even with all my careful measuring, I realized after the third row that if I was doing all squares I would have run out of room. So, measure and calculate, but finish all your squares and pin everything in place before you sew. If you want to modify the size of the squares and make them a tad bit smaller you can also skip round 20 of the square and finish with the round of sc.
I chose to make a few pockets in addition to squares for four reasons:
- I really wanted the “lmnop” to be all together the way we used to be taught to sing the alphabet. I hear they have now changed the alphabet song and it sound way wrong LOL – my original idea was to have all squares and only the lmnop pocket, but truth be told – truth -at the very end, I was just wanting to finish up.
- The pockets do work up faster.
- Visual interest – I wanted to switch it up and all squares seemed boring.
- I wanted to give you options – you can complete make a piece with NO squares and ONLY pockets.
I didn’t have any place in my house that was more convenient than the wall to assemble the final large project – so, I hung the curtain part and then pinned everything in place and then sewed the squares and pockets. It wasn’t hard at all like I thought. I just had one hand in back and one in the front and stitched in and out.
Orient the openings for the pockets how you think is best that makes the most sense for your orientation. On my large example, the upper pockets open from one side since it is high. I did the two left ones opening from the left side and the right ones open from the right side. The E, F and G open from the top. The H opens from the left and the K from the right, but the I and J open at the top. The “lmnop” pocket opens from the top and is stitched down the sides and in the middle in a few places to secure. The q/r and u/v pockets open from the top, but the s and t open from EACH side and are only closed on the top and bottom. And the bottom w, x, y and z pocket opens from the top like the other one.
Will you be joining in the fun? I’d love for you to make all of this with me, but if not pick a few and make it with me.
I’d love to see all your work or catch up with your progress so connect with me over on IG @theburgundybasket
#youandmeabccrochet
XOXO,
Kristi
Thank you so much for stopping by. I hope you are all enjoying this crazy, fun thing!! Catch up with me over @theburgundybasket on IG. I’d love to see you and your makes there.
Pin this post and come back for all of the A-Z toys! You can find a link to the original post below to start from the beginning!!
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