Pinky the Dezzy Inspired Dragon

Good morning!  I am working on my next farm series animal, the next few letters of the alphabet and am in the planning stages of my next doll – so, I thought I would share this pattern that I made maybe last year?  It is one of the first patterns I wrote up from scratch after I was contacted by an Etsy customer to see if I could make her child a dragon like Dezzy the Dragon from the show Bo on the Go! and I think I nailed it! This is the sweetest dragon and can be made up with my dinosaur family.  Make this one up in any colors!  I had already shared part of this pattern as it is the one I used to make Scrappy the Dinosaur’s head.

This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.

You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.

If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.

Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Pinky’s full PDF can be downloaded from my ETSY HERE.  It includes more tips and photos.

This post does contain affiliate links.  I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same.  I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things. 

Materials:

This Dragon uses a FULL skein of Deborah Norville Everyday yarn. It is 206 yds/ 186 m per skein. I used the FULL skein and only have a few feet left, so please make sure you have at least that much yarn. If you crochet loose you will want to either have a little extra yarn or crochet a few less rows in the pattern than what I have. I’ve use the color Electric Green for my pattern with small amounts of two different pinks for the belly patch and horns/bumps and a tiny amount of aqua for eyebrows and spots on back and a scrap of black for the mouth.

-Hook : I used a G hook for most of this pattern, but I did switch to my H for the Wings, Ears and Tail since they don’t have to be stuffed.  If you don’t have these hooks yet they are a must!  I was having trouble with my hands and switched to these – they make such a big difference for amigurumi.  Can’t afford the name brand?  I have the less expensive ones in the large size and love them too!  I replaced all my hooks.  Do something nice for you today.

-Safety Eyes (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. *I just ordered these safety eyes and LOVE them!  I can’t say enough good things about them after getting some that were cheap and chipped and didn’t have good backs.  I love these for my ami’s so much!

-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.

– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!  – and this is a fun kit to get your started if you are new to amigurumi and it makes a great gift!

Stitches Used:

Chain: Ch

Single Crochet: SC

Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated

Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease

HDC: half-double crochet

HDC Inc: increase in HDC

DC Inc: increase in DC

DC: double crochet *US Terms apply

Tr: treble crochet

USE YOUR G SIZE HOOK ON EVERYTHING EXCEPT THE EARS, WINGS AND TAIL

Head:

Ch 2   (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)

Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)

Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)

Round 5: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)

Round 6: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)

Round 7: 1 sc in each stitch around (36)

Round 8: *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (42)

Rounds 9-11: 1 sc in each stitch around working in a spiral (42)(42)(42)

Now we will start our decreases

Round 12: *sc in each of the next 5 sc, dec sc* repeat around (36)

Round 13: sc in each stitch around (36)

Round 14: ***place a stitch marker here in the first stitch.*** sc in each of the next 20 sc, chain 10, slip stitch in marked first stitch, (see photos). Chain 1 and sc in each stitch around (30)

Round 15-16: sc in each stitch around (30)(30)

Round 17: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)

Rounds 18-20: 1 sc in each stitch around (36)

Now, before you continue see photos now for this part. You are going to fold in half and place 2 markers where shown in the photos. These markers are going to help you place the horns and stuff. See photo:

Round 21: ALL OF THIS ROUND IS FRONT LOOP ONLY After placing stitch markers we will resume our rounds. SC in FRONT LOOP ONLY (FLO) until you get to 4 stitches from the stitch marker on front of face. In next 3 stitches HDC. In next stitch place two DC in SAME stitch. In next stitch place one TRC (treble crochet). In next stitch place 2 two DC. Now, HDC in next 3 stitches. **those hdc, dc, and treble series of stitches I will refer to as a “shell” simply for reference** – now for the rest of the round sc around until you get to the stitch marker remembering to go into (FLO)

Round 22 is entirely worked in the free back loop that you just left behind the stitches from round 21. (see above photo) You will place one single crochet in each back loop behind the stitches you just worked from round 21. There are only 36 back loop stitches.

Round 23: for this round we are going to sc around the entire piece, but we are going to single crochet together the front and back crochet from the round before to join them together. (see photos) – you are simply crocheting through the loops of both stitches. ***exception – for the “shell” you will simply crochet in the loops behind the “shell” to leave it free. This is the nose of our dragon. (see photo above. Just fold it down and work behind)

***Now stop here for a bit. We are going to make horns, add eyes, eyebrows and do the face before we continue.***

My HORNS are pink, but you can choose whatever color you prefer. Make 2: ch 2, sc 5 in second chain from hook. (Round 1) : Rounds 2-3: sc around (5)

FO and leave tail to sew on top of head. These get sewed 2-3 stitches from the stitch marker you placed on top of head between rounds 7-8.

Attach eyes – either safety eyes or do embroidered eyes between rounds 15-16 with 3 visible stitches between them.

Do eyebrows above eyes as you prefer after attaching eyes.

Now we will continue:

Rounds 24-25: sc around (30)(30)

*now if you like add “nostrils” with black yarn across the two double crochet of the “shell” as shown.

Decrease begins. Round 26:

Round 26: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)

Round 27: 1 sc in each stitch around (24)

Round 28: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)

Round 29: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)

Round 30: inv dec around to end with 6 sc.

Embroider mouth as you wish.

Body:

Start body at back of head (see photo) – sc around piece *I got 29. This part isn’t crucial – you may get a few more or a few less. It is okay. Just make sure your stitches are evenly spaced and don’t look puckered. It should be around 30.

On the second round we are going to decrease to get 20 sc. You want to decrease this round evenly from whatever you had on the previous row. Just decrease around using inv. dec to get 20 stitches. So, for me since I had 29, I did (1 sc, 1 dec) around.

Rounds 3-4: Sc in each stitch around (20)(20)

Start stuffing head and stuff as you go.

Round 5: Increase this round by 4 evenly spaced stitches to end up with 24.

Rounds 6-8: sc around (24)(24)(24)

Round 9: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)

Rounds 10-12: sc around (30)(30)(30)

Round 13: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)

Round 14: sc around (36)

Round 15: *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (42)

Round 16: sc around (42)

Round 17: *1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (48)

Rounds 18-22: sc around (48)

***Now, we are going to stop here and do the tummy patch, the spots and bumps down the back. I just find it is easier to sew these types of pieces before I stuff and close. If you don’t want to do this and prefer to stuff and close and then add the other parts that is fine. Just continue to the “start decreasing round of body below****

For the tummy patch I used two different pink colors. Feel free to use whatever two+ colors you like. I also don’t cut my yarn on each color change, but rather run it up the side of my work that way there is nothing to weave in.

For the tummy patch you will chain 1 and turn after each row.

Chain 5. Sc in second chain from hook and across (4)

Row 2: Sc across (4)

Row 3: Inc, sc, sc, Inc (6) *this is where I joined my new color

Row 4-5: sc across (6)

Row 6: Inc, sc (4), Inc (8)

Row 7: sc across (8) *change color

Row 8: sc across (8)

Row 9: inc, sc (6), inc (10)

Row 10: sc across (10)

Row 11: inc, sc (8), inc (12) *change color

Rows 12-15: sc across (12) *change color

Row 16: dec, sc (8), dec (10)

Row 17: sc across (10)

Row 18: dec, sc (6), dec (8)

Row 19: sc across (8) *change color

Row 20: dec, sc (4), dec (6)

Row 21: sc across (6)

Row 22: dec, sc, sc, dec (4)

Row 23: sc across (4)

**I leave a long tail for each color used for sewing to body that way it becomes invisible. So, fasten off leaving a long tail for all colors used for sewing to body – you may also choose to sc around the entire piece and then just use that color for sewing.  Whatever you prefer.  I do this part before closing body and tie off all my ends inside.

For spots down back I simply made random circles. I have two that are ch 2 and do 6 sc in 2^nd chain from hook. I have two that are ch 2, do 5 sc in second chain from hook and then two sc in each of those chains for 10. And then I have a big one that is 5, 10, 15. Just make the size circles that you prefer doing a bunch of little ones or a few big ones. This part is up to you.

For the bumps down the back I made three. Do a chain 2 and then 6 sc in second chain from hook and then work around the circle again with another 6sc and leave a long tail for sewing (these are made like the horns)

Now – sew these on where you like. I evenly spaced the bumps and added the spots. Remember, before adding the spots you will have to sew on the arms so don’t use that spot near the neck. For the tummy patch position and pin on if it helps. The tummy patch should start at top of next and run all the way down to bottom fasten off of body when the body is done. I start sewing the patch on before I finish the body and then finish sewing the tummy patch bottom after I stuff and close the body.

Now we will continue with the body decreases and stuff as you go.

***Start Decreasing

Round 23: *sc in each of the next 6 sc, dec sc* repeat around (42)

Round 24: *sc in each of the next 5 sc, dec sc* repeat around (36)

Round 25: *sc in each of the next 4 sc, dec sc* repeat around (30)

Round 26: *sc in each of the next 3 sc, dec sc* repeat around (24)

Round 27: *sc in each of the next 2 sc, dec sc* repeat around (18)

Round 28: *sc in the next sc, dec sc* repeat around (12)

Round 29: sc dec around (6)

FO and sew opening closed.

Feet/Legs (make two):

Ch 2   (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)

Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)

Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)

Rounds 5-7: 1 sc in each stitch around (24)(24)(24)

Start your Decreases and stuff as you go. Stuff how it is easiest for you. I usually stuff around my 18 sc round. Stuff the feet firm, but don’t over stuff the legs. I didn’t add any stuffing to my legs.

Round 8: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)

Round 9: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)

Round 10: sc in each sc around (12)

Repeat Round 10 with one single crochet in each stitch around until you reach the length you desire for your legs. I ended up with 18 total rows in my example.

When you get finished flatten the tops and work through both rounds. I end my tops like this:

Chain 1 – work through the first stitch with your chain 1 and the stitch behind it (you have to twist your hook around a good bit to get that one) work hdc across the tops. You should have 6 hdc to close your flattened top.

Finish off, but leave a long tail for sewing to the body.

Arms (make two):

Ch 2   (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)

Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: *1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (15)

Rounds 4-6: 1 sc in each stitch around (15)(15)(15)

Start your Decreases and stuff as you go. Don’t overstuff your arms. I only add stuffing to the bottoms in the “hands” and leave the arm free.

Round 7: *sc in next 3 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (12)

Rounds 8: (sc dec over the next 2 stitches) x 2, then sc in the next 8 sc (10)

Rounds 9-18: sc in each sc around (10)

When you get finished flatten the tops and work through both rounds. I end my tops like this:

Chain 1 – work through the first stitch with your chain 1 and the stitch behind it (you have to twist your hook around a good bit to get that one) work hdc across the tops. You should have 5 hdc to close your flattened top.  * you don’t have to do this and can just sew flat and sew to body.

Finish off, but leave a long tail for sewing to the body.

Tail with H hook (make one):

Ch 2   (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)

Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)

Round 2: 1 sc in each sc around (6)

Follow this pattern for the next stitches. *after round 3 you are basically going to increase in each increase from the round below. This will give us the nice diamond shape.

Round 3: sc, sc inc, sc, sc, sc inc, sc (8)

Round 4: sc, sc inc, sc inc, sc, sc, sc inc, sc inc, sc (12)

Round 5: sc, sc inc, sc inc, sc inc, sc inc, sc, sc, sc inc, sc inc, sc inc, sc inc, sc (20)

Round 6: sc, (sc inc) x 8, sc, sc, (sc inc) x 8, sc (36)

Now we are going to decrease in the same manner with one decrease in each increase around.

Round 7: sc, (sc dec) x 8, sc, sc, (sc dec) x 8, sc * you are decreasing over 16 stitches to get 8 sc* (20)

Round 8: sc, (sc dec) x 4, sc, sc, (sc dec) x 4, sc (12)

Round 9: sc, sc dec, sc dec, sc, sc, sc dec, sc dec, sc (8)

Round 10: sc, sc dec, sc, sc, sc dec, sc (6)

Rounds 11-20: sc around (6)

Round 21: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)

Round 22: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)

Finish off leaving a long tail to sew to the body. Sew under the body. Mine ended up being just between the end of the tummy patch and the last pink “bump”

Ears (make 2) – USE YOUR H HOOK FOR THESE TO MAKE THEM BIGGER AND MORE FLOPPY

Chain 2 and then put 4 sc in second chain from hook (4) Ch 1 and turn. You will be working in rows.

Row 2: inc sc, sc, sc, inc sc (6) Ch 1 and turn

Row 3: sc, inc sc, sc, sc, inc sc, sc, (8) Ch 1 and turn

Row 4: sc, sc, inc sc, sc, sc, inc sc, sc, (10) Ch 1 and turn

Row 5: sc, sc, sc, inc sc, sc, sc, inc sc, sc, sc (12) Ch 1 and turn

Row 6: sc, sc, sc, hdc inc, hdc inc, sc, sc, hdc inc, hdc inc, sc, sc, sc (16) Ch 1 and turn

Row 7: sc, sc, sc, hdc inc, DC inc, DC inc, hdc inc, hdc inc, sc, sc, hdc inc, DC inc, DC inc, hdc inc, hdc inc, sc, sc, sc (28) Fasten off with a long tail to sew to head. See photos for how I weave in and “gather” the inside ear together before sewing to head.

Wings (make 2) – USE YOUR H HOOK . If you like you can make two pieces – one in colors and one in the body color and then sew them together (or single crochet them together) at the end to make the wing more sturdy. That is what I did on my example. I made the inside in colors and the outside in the body color.

Chain 4 and then sc in second chain and next chain. In last chain sc inc (4) Ch 1 and turn. (You will be working in rows. Chain one and turn after each row.)

Row 2: inc sc, sc (3) :(5)

Row 3: sc (4), inc sc :(6)

Row 4: inc sc, sc (5): (7)

Row 5: sc (6), inc sc : (8)

Row 6: inc sc, sc (7) : (9)

Row 7: sc (8), inc sc : (10)

Row 8: sc 10 across

Now we are going to decrease opposite of what we just did.

Row9: sc across but miss last stitch (9) *don’t chain 1, but turn

Row 10: miss first stitch and sc across (8) chain 1 and turn

Row 11: sc across but miss last stitch (7) *don’t chain 1, but turn

Row 12: miss first stitch and sc across (6) chain 1 and turn

Row 13:sc across but miss last stitch (5) *don’t chain 1, but turn

Row 14: miss first stitch and sc across (4) chain 1 and turn

Now single crochet around entire ear evenly spaced. I did mine in my dark pink color. Pick any color you want for this part. You can just switch to your body color as well.

Your wings will have the point up. See photos so that you can plan your right side and wrong side and line them up correctly for stitching together and sewing down.

For my wings I wanted to make a “tab” to help sew them to the body neater so when I got around to the side of my wing that would attach to the body I did two rows of 4 sc. You will want to hold these and place and maybe mark the side that needs a “tab” if you want to add this. It is optional. You can just sew the wing to the body without it. I positioned my wings between the two top bumps on the back of the body.

There you go!  I’d love to see  your dragons so tag me on IG @theburgundybasket