Let’s do this 2020 thing! If you didn’t see the post where all The Calendar Kids ©️ were introduced, you may enjoy seeing what is coming up each and every month this year. Every month this year, a new doll pattern will be here for you to enjoy for FREE! Make sure to pin this pin and come back on the first of each month for a new free pattern – or just follow my blog and you will get an email when I post new content.
My dolls all feature different hair and face techniques to make a doll for multiple age groups. So, if you popped over to check out my April doll and don’t lover her make sure to pin this post and check out other months because they are all different.
And BEST of ALL – MOST require very little sewing as MOST have the heads as a continuation from the body.
Here is a pin you can save for later to follow me this year as I share my love of these dolls with you.
Can’t wait to make all the dolls this year? Or want to combine a few patterns/clothes to custom make your own doll? You can find the entire 204 page E-book right HERE on Etsy. *I am in the process of modifying this to move parts that are redundant and make this smaller. So, stay tuned. **I have it down to 170 pages and just need to edit it a bit more. It will be replacing the current one soon if you are waiting. If you prefer Ravelry, I also have them set up for you here – for Ravelry you have to put them all in your cart rather than in an eBook format. 
This is Andi. Andi is super curious and loves reading. Her messy bun hairstyle was inspired by my oldest daughter. She is very studious and a little introverted, but loves being outdoors.
Andi April- Andi is a sweet doll with a removable dress and sandals. She is my basic doll pattern with a messy bun *her hair is only two rows around head and then gathered up, so the hair is one of the simplest hair styles of my dolls. So, with Andi you get the basic doll pattern, the dress, the sandals, a small hair bow and my photo tutorial on making the basic doll form. Her PDF is 15 pages and available at my ETSY HERE or my Ravelry
All of my paid patterns have more photos, tips and tutorials etc.
Did you miss Jenny January? What about Fiona February? Melodie March was last month so check them all out if you missed them.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then from any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
THE CALENDAR KIDS©️ ANDI APRIL ©️ DOLL PATTERN
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family, so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Andi April ©️ Is the fourth doll in a yearlong series of dolls. Each month in 2020, I will be making a new doll to accompany Andi and all my dolls, will feature different, changeable clothing, hair and face techniques.
Andi, and all her friends, can be found only right here. Join me this year as I make all my Calendar Kids ©️ Come to life. Find me at TheBurgundyBasket.com
All of my patterns are written using US Crochet Terms.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things.
Materials:
These dolls are designed to have stash-busting in mind. For many parts of these dolls you only need the smallest scraps of yarn. Even for the skin parts, you won’t need that much. I encourage you to dig through your stash pile. When you need larger amounts, I will make note of these on all of my dolls. My Calendar Kids ©️ range in size from 17-22”, but your size may vary depending on the yarn and hook that you use.
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for this for the most part. Any changes will be noted.
-I typically use Caron One-Pound for all of my Amigurumi, Dolls and Toys. It is a great, sturdy yarn that doesn’t get “splitty” when crocheting and it holds up well for little hands. I will note what my skin color is for each doll because Caron makes great skin tones! I will also note any different materials that I use.
-Caron One Pound in Off White was used for Andi’s skin tone. You will not use much at all of this. These dolls don’t require very much of the skein of yarn.
-I used some scrap yarn for her shoes and scarf. You will only need two small scrap balls in the color you want to use for the sandals. I used some of the pink scrap from her shoes to make a small hair bow.
-Lion’s Brand Jeans Yarn in “Corduroy” and “Capri” was used for the sundress. It will take the smallest bit from the skein for this.
-Andi’s hair is made up of one skein of Buttercream Luxe Craft Angel Hair in White
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. This is the safety eye pack that I’ve used for Andi:
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer. Now, I am an avid toy maker and use a lot of stuffing, so I always get the 50-100 pound box at my JoAnn’s store when it is NOT on sale and I have a 50% off coupon. If you don’t have access to a local store with a box and are also an avid toy maker you can get this big box delivered for free.
Optional, but very nice for head support: 6-pack of foam rollers:
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker! If you are new to crochet doll making or want to get yourself a gift I highly recommend this kit that has it all.
Hints and Tips for Stuffies, Ragdolls, Amigurumi etc.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Invisible Single Crochet 3 Together: inv3sctog
Double Crochet: DC
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
HDC Puff Stitch (x): hdcpuff(x): I use a half double crochet puff stitch for some parts of the dolls. Sometimes it a 2 puff, sometimes 3, 4, and sometimes 5. For example, to hdc puff (4) you will: Yarn over and insert hook into space, pull up a loop, yarn over and insert hook into space again and pull up another loop, (that’s 2), yarn over and pull up another loop (3), and finally, yarn over and pull up a loop for the 4th time. Now, yarn over and pull through all loops on chain. This is a hdc puff (4) – sometimes I will specify a 3 and sometimes a 2 – this is how many times you yarn over – it makes either a small or a large puff.
*continuous spiral crochet
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
Basic Doll Feet/Legs with “Toes” (make 2)
*continuous spiral crochet
If you are making a doll with boots or tennis shoes etc. just skip the puff stitched “toes” and carry on with regular single crochet.
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
Right Foot/Leg:
Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook 2sc, sc in the next 8st, 4sc in last stitch, going along other side of chain: sc 8, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – we are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28) *if making socks just work in both loops
—————————————————————————————————————-
Round 4:
4a: IF MAKING SOCKS/SHOES/BOOTS: R4: Sc around (28) and then GO TO Round 5 below.
4b: IF MAKING FEET: R4: sc 12, hdc puff 4, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 2, sc 11
R5: sc 8, (inv dec) 6, sc 8 (22)
R6: sc 5, (inv dec) 6, sc 5 (16)
R7: sc 4, (inv dec) 4, sc 4 (12) *start stuffing*
*stuff leg firm as you go up. This doll can stand up when completed – at least propped up – but, the feet and legs need to be stuff firm.
R8-20: sc around (12) – that’s 156 stitches if you are working in the spiral
NOW FOR THE KNEE:
You may/will need to crochet around the leg a few more stitches until you get to the 4 FRONT-MOST stitches on the front of the leg. *I have a photo tutorial to help with the next steps in my pdf/paid pattern if you need help with this.
This is going to maybe be the trickiest part of your doll. The BLO stitches will be tight.
R21: In the four front-most stitches you are going to HDC FLO, chain 1, now turn – now, working BEHIND those 4 stitches you will HDC BLO behind those stitches (you are making a double layer) *the very first BLO stitch might be hard to get/see – just count over and find it. After you do the HDC BLO stitches, ch 1 and turn (you are back in the front of the knee now. Now, sc through both layers of the first 4 hdc stitches and then sc in the next 8 stitches (12)
R22: SC around (12) *your first sc of this round goes into the first hdc from the previous round.
R23: Sc in the first sc, (inc sc) 2, sc in the next 9 stitches (14)
R24-33: Now you will work 10 more rounds in spiral crochet – that is 140 stitches.
Finish OFF.
Left Foot/Leg: DON’T FASTEN OFF THE SECOND LEG
For the left leg you will work exactly as the right leg EXCEPT:
R4: sc 11, hdc puff 2, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 4, sc 12
*just in case you need clarification, the puff stitches make “toes” so the larger puff is the big toe etc.
NOW – hold both legs facing you with toes toward you. You want to be at the center part of the left leg – so, just like the knee, where you had to maybe crochet a few extra stitches, you are going to do the same here. You are joining the legs on the inside edge. Single crochet around the left leg until you get to the most “inside” stitch. This will NOT make any difference at the end. *you may be at a point on your left leg where it makes more sense to pull out a few stitches instead of adding some – that is totally fine as well.
Slip Stitch into the inner most stitch of the LEFT leg then chain 4 and slip stitch into the coordinating inner most stitch on the RIGHT leg to join the two legs.
R1: sc around the right leg for 10, sc in each chain of the chain 4 space, sc around the left leg for 10, single crochet in the same chain 4 space in front of the other single crochets (28)
R2: sc around (28)
FOR GIRL DOLL, you will now make “hips” and work up the BODY
R3: sc around, but make 1 inc sc in two outside stitches on the “hip” with at least one stitch between them – you will be adding 2 sc on each “hip” (32)
R4: sc around, but make 1 inc sc in 3 sc on each side of the hips with at least one stitch between them. (You will be adding 3 stitches on EACH hip) (38)
R5-7: sc around (38)
R8: crochet around, but inv dec 3 sc on each side of each hip with a stitch in between them and inv dec one sc in the middle of the back. (you are subtracting 3 sc from each hip and one from the back) (31)
R9: sc around (31)
R10: repeat round 8, but instead of 1 sc dec on back you need to sc3tog (single crochet 3 sc together) on the center of back. (23)
R11-18: sc around ***check your stuffing****add belly button if you want at this point. I just embroidered one with skin colored yarn (23)
R19: sc around, but you will inc 2sc on each side of body (27)
R20: on this round you will do 1sc in each stitch around, BUT, if you want to add “breasts” to your doll they are simply (3hdc, sc 5, 3hdc) straight up from the belly button. The 3 hdc are worked into one stitch. So, turn your doll and look at her and mark the 5 middle-most stitches and then mark the two stitches on each side of those to make the breasts. (photo below) If you find that you are already somewhere on the front of your doll at the start of this round, you want to pull back some stitches or add some single crochet to get around to the back so you can start the round not on the front of your doll. I always choose to add some stitches to start my rounds on the back of my doll. This will not make any difference on your finished product. (31)
R21: sc around, but when you get to the 3 hdc for each breast you will make one 3sctog (27)
R22: sc around, but inv dec 3 sc evenly around your doll – I did one on each side and one on the back (24)
R23: sc around, but evenly inv dec 3 stitches on this round. I did one on each side and one in the back. (21)
R24: *start stuffing* (sc 5, dec) 3 (18)
R25: (sc 2, dec) around (12)
**now, for this part I am resetting the numbers back to the #1 for rounds to make it easier, but you don’t finish off you just keep on crocheting.
HEAD *continue to work in a spiral
Round 1: sc around (12)
Round 2: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 3: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 4: *1sc in next three sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 5: *1sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Rounds 6-8: sc around (36)
Round 9: *1sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Round 10: sc around (42)
There is a full photo tutorial for the next steps of the face in my pdf pattern
Round 11: On this round you are going to sc around, but you are doing 4 sc dec stitches on the very FRONT of face – that is 4 sc decreases over the front 8 stitches. Mark the front 8 stitches and then proceed. *You may want to mark where you are this round so you know where to finish* You will sc around until you reach the first marked stitch and then you will do 4 inv sc decreases over those 8 stitches. Then sc around to finish the round. You should end with 38 sc. *just make sure you do 4 inv dec sc on the FRONT of face and finish the rest of the round in sc. (38) ***There are a series of pictures below to help with rows 11 – 14. The first step is to find the middle of your face. [below first photo shows this. I just use my crochet hook and go up from belly. You can see how I used the green yarn to mark these front 8 stitches (2nd photo below). The third photo below shows the green yarn now marking my 4 decrease stitches and the blue yarn marking the 8 stitches above these where your increases will go.]
Round 12-13: sc around (38)
Round 14: For this round, you are going to do the opposite of what we did on Round 11. (See photo) – you are going to inc sc two rows above where you did your decreases. In the below 3rd photo you will see the green line and just above that you can see my decreases – above that you see my sc in those in the rounds above – then, I have marked with a circle the 4 stitches that I’m going to put increase single crochet – so, the opposite of what you did earlier. When you get done you will again have 42 single crochet.
Rounds 15-20: sc around (42)
**place your eyes, eye lashes/brows, nose, mouth etc before you go any further. This part is largely up to you. The nose goes just above the center decrease stitches. You should have a natural pucker. You can choose horizontal across the middle 2 stitches or all 4 for a wider nose or vertical up and down starting between the center-most 2 decrease stitches.
Now, what I like to do is pop in my safety eyes and look at them to make sure I like the placement.
After doing the lashes and tying off my ends I pop the eyes back in and make sure ALL LOOKS GOOD before I put the safety backs on. Once those backs are on, they are ON! It is really hard to do eyelashes if your backs are already on.
You can shape the face by pushing the stuffing around/out where needed.
Now, this part is optional, but if you have a Dollar Tree store it really, really does help because depending on how you do the hair, the head can be heavy. If you have access to a Dollar Tree (maybe other stores have them too) you want to grab a 6-pack of foam hair rollers. They are long tubes that offer support and slip right now the neck. See my photo. Use your finger or hook to move the stuffing around from the inside of the neck – make a “hole” down into the neck for several inches and insert the foam roller – then pack stuffing really good all the way around it.
Start decreasing. Stuff as required. It is important to have enough stuffing, but not so much you pucker your stitches out. You do want your dolls to be firm.
On these next sc decreases – if you are covering the head with hair or a hair “hat” there is not any need to make invisible decreases.
Round 21: *1 sc in next 5, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (36)
Round 23: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 24: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 25: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 26: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
FO and leave a long tail for sewing. AT this point you really want to make sure you have stuffed the head well. Keep making a “hole” in your stuffing at the top of the head with your fingers pushing the stuffing to the outside and shaping head/face. Keep adding stuffing until the head is firm, but not overstuffed.
Sew hole closed and weave the end inside.
The ears are a simple circle like this:
Leave a short tail to start. Chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook make the following stitches: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, chain 3 and slip stitch back into first stitch and FO with tail to sew. The dc is the bottom of the ear – so, flip the second ear over when you sew. The ears get sewed on about 5-6 stitches behind the eyes with the top of the ear even with the eye. I use the two tails to tie on and then hide the tails inside the head.
There are two versions of hands in some of my doll patterns. One version uses a smaller hook and has a thumb crocheted separate that gets sewed on and the other version uses the same size hook as your doll and has no thumb that gets sewed on – it just has a “puff” stitch thumb.
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2)
****I USE MY E HOOK FOR THESE*****
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) – continuous spiral
Round 1: Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc from round 1, make (1 sc, 2 sc) * repeat around (9) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 9 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
R3: *1 sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (12)
R4-5: sc in each stitch around (12) (12)
R6: sc 7, ch 3, skip 1, sc 4 (11sc and one chain 3 space)
R7: sc 7, 3sc in the space, sc 4 (14)
R8: sc 7, inv3sctog, sc 4 (12)
R9: *sc in next 2sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (9)
R10-24: sc in each stitch around. Work in continuous spiral for 135 stitches
*turn arm so that the thumb “hole” is facing down and flatten the arm. (lots of extra photos in the paid PDF) Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body.
THUMB: join yarn to the side of the thumb space and sc evenly around for 6 sc. (R1)
R2: 6sc around
R3: dec sc around (3) FO and pull tail through hand before cutting. Shape thumb
*I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
Simpler Version: No Thumbs. Bigger Hook.
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2)
****I USE MY G HOOK FOR THESE*****these arms are my “simple” version of arms and have no add-on thumbs at the end.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) *work in continuous rounds
Round 1: 6sc in second chain from hook (6)
R2: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (9)
Rounds 3-4: sc in each stitch around (9)
R5: hdc4puff, sc 8
Rounds 6-7: sc in each stitch around (9)
R8: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
R9: sc in each stitch around (6)
R10: *1 sc, 2sc* around (9)
Rounds 11-25: single crochet in each stitch around (9)
R26: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
*turn arm so that the “thumb” is facing down and flatten the arm. Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body.
FO with tail to sew onto the body.
*I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
Andi’s hair:
I wrapped longways around a notebook and then cut down the center to have all the strands ready at once.
Andi just has two rows of hair – one around the perimeter of her face (hairline) and one just inside that. This is a lot of hair – it is getting pulled up to the top so there is no need to fully do the head.
I chose to do her “messy bun” the way my oldest daughter does her messy bun. If you prefer to leave her hair down into a pony tail that is fine too.
Andi’s Sundress:
I used my H hook. Chain 1 and turn after each row.
Chain 19
Hdc 18 across for 6 rows. Chain 1 and turn after each row.
Row 7: inc hdc, inc hdc, hdc 14, inc hdc, inc hdc
Row 8: hdc 22
Row 9: hdc 2 in each stitch around (44) then join to form a circle in the first stitch on this round.
Now you will work in rounds.
Round 10: hdc around (44)
Round 11: I chose to switch colors on this round and then every round. I also worked in the BLO for the next rounds of “stripes” – Hdc BLO around (44)
Repeat round 11 for as many rows as you want for the length of your dress. I did 3 more rows and then finished with a round of single crochet. AFTER THE LAST SINGLE CROCHET DO NOT FINISH OFF, but loosely slip stitch up the back skirt until you get to the opening of the back. See photo above. Then single crochet evenly up one side until you get to the front.
On the front stitches to make the straps you will:
Single crochet in the first 7 stitches.
Slip stitch in next. Chain 8 and slip stitch to upper back opening corner. Sc 10 in the loop you just made until you get back to the front and then slip stitch into the next stitch on front. Slip stitch in next 2 stitches and then chain 8 for the next arm hole. Repeat for this side. Slip stitch to upper corner on the next side of the back and sc 10 in this hole and go back to the front. On the next stitch -on the front- you will sc and then sc in the next 6. Sc back down the other side. I made two button holes 6 stitches apart. Mine are a chain 7, but they could have been smaller.
For Andi’s Sandals I went right on from her dress and didn’t think about changing hooks. I used my H hook, but you can use a G hook as well to make them a little smaller.
With two colors of scraps for these, you need to decide what will be the bottom color on the sole and what will be the inside/upper color of the sole. You will be making 2 pieces in each color and need to start with the BOTTOM color. You will finish off after the first one (bottom) but NOT the second one (inside) BUT, you will need to do them in this order if working from two scrap balls:
Make one bottom and FO. Make one top STRAP in whichever color you choose and FO. Make one inside bottom and DO NOT FO.
With first color, chain 11. We are going to work like the first two rows of the feet.
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook make sc 2, sc in the next 8st, sc 4 in last stitch, going along other side of chain: 8sc, sc 2 in last stitch (24) – don’t join – we are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, 8sc, 1inc, 2sc, 1inc, 8sc, 1inc, 1sc (28)
R3: sc, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 10, inc, sc
FO for FIRST BOTTOM PIECE ONLY
Weave in end. ———————–
The top strap is simple: leave a tail to sew to bottom piece. Chain 13. Hdc in 2nd chain from hook and across (12). Ch1 and turn. Hdc back across and finish off with a tail to sew. ———–
Now, make the next bottom inside piece like above.
You will sew the top strap down to the inside bottom color. I simply tied the two ends together underneath instead of weaving. You won’t see them. Please the wrong sides of each part together and slip stitch to finish.
The bow for her hair is very easy:
Chain 5. [Tr in the 1st chain (or the 4th chain from hook)] 3x
Chain 4 and slip stitch to the same place.
Chain 4 and (tr in the same place) 3x
Chain 4 and slip stitch to the same place. FO with tail to wrap a few times around the middle and to tie to hair band.
Thank you XOXO, Andi April
#thecalendarkids
#andiapril
@theburgundybasket on IG would love to see your Andi dolls <3
