Let’s do this 2020 thing! If you didn’t see the post where all The Calendar Kids ©️ were introduced, you may enjoy seeing what is coming up each and every month this year. Every month this year, a new doll pattern will be here for you to enjoy for FREE! Make sure to pin this pin and come back on the first of each month for a new free pattern – or just follow my blog and you will get an email when I post new content.
Can’t wait to make all the dolls this year? Or want to combine a few patterns/clothes to custom make your own doll? You can find the entire 204 page E-book right HERE on Etsy. *I am in the process of modifying this to move parts that are redundant and make this smaller. So, stay tuned. If you prefer Ravelry, I also have them set up for you here – for Ravelry you have to put them all in your cart rather than in an eBook format. 
This is Melodie. Melodie is my mom’s name and she is the one who taught me to crochet when I was a child. <3 Melodie is an artsy girl. She enjoys crafting and gardening and sometimes working out.
Did you miss Jenny January? What about Fiona February? If so, you might want to go back and check them out.
Melodie is one of only 2 dolls that is worked with a separate sewn on head. (Jenny January is my other doll worked with a separate head.) All of my other dolls are made with a no sew head that is crocheted up from the body. Melodie’s arms are a modification of my original pattern to be easier to make. There are not any thumbs to do after. She has removable cropped pants, slide on shoes, a “bra” or bikini top, t-shirt, sweater and her face is embroidered with nice large eyes NO safety eyes. Her hair is also simple. Crochet hair with NO loops or loose pieces. This is more baby and child safe and also a good option for male dolls. Her PDF is 19-pages with a lot of photo tutorials!
I have more photos in her 19 page Etsy PDF. So, if you like this pattern, but need some extra photo tutorials – a LOT more – you will find the PDF very helpful. Prefer Ravelry? The PDF is the same and you can find that here
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then from any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
THE CALENDAR KIDS©️ Melodie March ©️
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family, so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern, please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Melodie March ©️ Is the third doll in a yearlong series of dolls. Each month in 2020, I will be making a new doll to accompany Melodie, and all my dolls, will feature different, changeable clothing, hair and face techniques.
Melodie, and all her friends, can be found only right here. Join me this year as I make all my Calendar Kids ©️ Come to life. Find me at TheBurgundyBasket.com
All of my patterns are written using US Crochet Terms.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things.
Materials:
These dolls are designed to have stash-busting in mind. For many parts of these dolls you only need the smallest scraps of yarn. Even for the skin parts, you won’t need that much. I encourage you to dig through your stash pile. When you need larger amounts, I will make note of these on all of my dolls. My Calendar Kids ©️ range in size from 17-22”, but your size may vary depending on the yarn and hook that you use.
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for this for the most part. Any changes will be noted.
-I typically use Caron One-Pound for all of my Amigurumi, Dolls and Toys. It is a great, sturdy yarn that doesn’t get “splitty” when crocheting and it holds up well for little hands. I will note what my skin color is for each doll because Caron makes great skin tones! I will also note any different materials that I use.
-Caron One Pound in Lace was used for Melodie’s skin tone. Scraps of yarn were used for the rest of Melodie. All 4-ply worsted weight yarn.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer. Now, I am an avid toy maker and use a lot of stuffing, so I always get the 50-100 pound box at my JoAnn’s store when it is NOT on sale and I have a 50% off coupon. If you don’t have access to a local store with a box and are also an avid toy maker you can get this big box delivered for free.
Optional, but very nice for head support: 6-pack of foam rollers:
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
Hints and Tips for Stuffies, Ragdolls, Amigurumi etc.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Invisible Single Crochet 3 Together: inv3sctog
Double Crochet: DC
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
HDC Puff Stitch (x): hdcpuff(x): I use a half double crochet puff stitch for some parts of the dolls. Sometimes it a 2 puff, sometimes 3, 4, and sometimes 5. For example, to hdc puff (4) you will: Yarn over and insert hook into space, pull up a loop, yarn over and insert hook into space again and pull up another loop, (that’s 2), yarn over and pull up another loop (3), and finally, yarn over and pull up a loop for the 4th time. Now, yarn over and pull through all loops on chain. This is a hdc puff (4) – sometimes I will specify a 3 and sometimes a 2 – this is how many times you yarn over – it makes either a small or a large puff.
*continuous spiral crochet
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
Melodie is made in this order:
Feet, legs, hips and body. Arms. The head is made from the top down and includes facial shaping rounds. The head is then sewed onto the body. All other parts are done after. I do give tips on making the face parts as you crochet the head. Melodie is one of only 2 dolls that is worked with a separate sewed on head. Jenny January is my other doll worked with a separate head. All of my other dolls are made with a no sew head that is crocheted up from the body.
Melodie’s arms are a modification of my original pattern to be easier to make. There are not any thumbs to do after. They are a simplified hand.
She has removable cropped pants, slide on shoes, a “bra” or bikini top, t-shirt, sweater and her face is embroidered with no safety eyes.
Her hair is also simple. Crochet hair with no loops or loose pieces. This is baby and small child safe and also a good option for male dolls.
Basic Doll Feet/Legs with “Toes” (make 2)
*continuous spiral crochet
If you are making a doll with boots, socks or tennis shoes etc. just skip the puff stitched “toes” and carry on with regular single crochet.
Melodie’s Shoes: her slip-on shoes are the same exact pattern as the feet except that I used my H hook (in white) and in round 4 it is just sc around. FO after round 6. Just in case you want to do those while you are at this point in the pattern.
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
Right Foot/Leg: Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook 2sc, sc in the next 8st, 4sc in last stitch, going along other side of chain: sc 8, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – we are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28) *if making socks just work in both loops
—————————————————————————————————————-
Round 4:
4a: IF MAKING SOCKS/SHOES/BOOTS: R4: Sc around (28) and then GO TO Round 5 below.
4b: IF MAKING FEET: R4: sc 12, hdc puff 4, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 2, sc 11
—————————————————————————————————————–
R5: sc 8, (inv dec) 6, sc 8 (22)
R6: sc 5, (inv dec) 6, sc 5 (16)
R7: sc 4, (inv dec) 4, sc 4 (12) *start stuffing*
*stuff leg firm as you go up. This doll can stand up when completed – at least propped up – but, the feet and legs need to be stuff firm.
R8-20: sc around (12) – that’s 156 stitches if you are working in the spiral
NOW FOR THE KNEE:
You may/will need to crochet around the leg a few more stitches until you get to the 4 FRONT-MOST stitches on the front of the leg. *I have a series of photos in my downloadable PDF to help with the next steps if you need extra photo tutorials.
This is going to maybe be the trickiest part of your doll. The BLO stitches will be tight.
R21: In the four front-most stitches you are going to HDC FLO, chain 1, now turn – now, working BEHIND those 4 stitches you will HDC BLO behind those stitches (you are making a double layer) *the very first BLO stitch might be hard to get/see – just count over and find it. After you do the HDC BLO stitches, ch 1 and turn (you are back in the front of the knee now. Now, sc through both layers of the first 4 hdc stitches and then sc in the next 8 stitches (12)
R22: SC around (12)
R23: Sc in the first sc, (inc sc) 2, sc in the next 9 stitches (14)
R24-33: Now you will work 10 more rounds in spiral crochet – that is 140 stitches. Finish OFF.
Left Foot/Leg: DON’T FASTEN OFF THE SECOND LEG
For the left leg you will work exactly as the right leg EXCEPT:
R4: sc 11, hdc puff 2, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 4, sc 12
*just in case you need clarification, the puff stitches make “toes” so the larger puff is the big toe etc.
NOW – hold both legs facing you with toes toward you. You want to be at the center part of the left leg – so, just like the knee, where you had to maybe crochet a few extra stitches, you are going to do the same here. You are joining the legs on the inside edge. Single crochet around the left leg until you get to the most “inside” stitch. This will NOT make any difference at the end. *after your rounds to the top of your leg, you may be at a point on your left leg where it makes more sense to pull out a few stitches instead of adding some – that is totally fine as well.
Slip Stitch into the inner most stitch of the LEFT leg then chain 4 and slip stitch into the coordinating inner most stitch on the RIGHT leg to join the two legs. Ch 1
R1: sc in the chain 1 space where you have joined and all around the right leg for 10, sc in each chain of the chain 4 space, sc around the left leg for 10, single crochet in the same chain 4 space in front of the other single crochets (28)
R2: sc around (28)
FOR GIRL DOLL you will now make hips and then go up the BODY
R3: sc around, but make 1 inc sc in two stitches on the outer “hip” with at least one space between them – you will be adding 2 sc on each “hip” (32)
R4: sc around, but make 1 inc sc in 3 sc on each outside of the hips with at least one stitch between them. (You will be adding 3 stitches on EACH hip) (38)
R5-7: sc around (38)
R8: crochet around, but inv dec 3 sc on each side of each hip and inv dec one sc in the middle of the back – and, again, put at least one stitch between them (you are subtracting 3 sc from each hip and one from the back) (31)
R9: sc around (31)
R10: repeat round 8, but instead of 1 sc dec on back you need to sc3tog (single crochet 3 sc together) on the center of back. (23)
R11-15: sc around ***check your stuffing**
*add belly button if you want at this point. I just embroidered one with skin colored yarn
R16-18: sc around (23)
R19: sc around, but you will inc 2sc on each side of body (27)
R20: on this round you will do 1sc in each stitch around, BUT, if you want to add “breasts” to your doll they are simply (3hdc, sc 5, 3hdc) straight up from the belly button. The 3 hdc are worked into one stitch. So, turn your doll and look at her and mark the 5 middle-most stitches and then mark the two stitches on each side of those to make the breasts. (photo below) If you find that you are already somewhere on the front of your doll at the start of this round, you want to pull back some stitches or add some single crochet to get around to the back so you can start the round not on the front of your doll. I always choose to add some stitches to start my rounds on the back of my doll. This will not make any difference on your finished product. (31)
R21: sc around, but when you get to the 3 hdc for each breast you will make one 3sctog (27)
R22: sc around, but inv dec 3 sc evenly around your doll – I did one on each side and one on the back (24)
R23: sc around, but evenly inv dec 3 stitches on this round. I did one on each side and one in the back. (21)
R24: *start stuffing* (sc 5, dec) 3 (18)
R25: (sc 2, dec) around (12)
R26: sc around (12)
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2)
****I USE MY G HOOK FOR THESE*****these arms are my “simple” version of arms and have no add-on thumbs at the end.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) *work in continuous rounds
Round 1: 6sc in second chain from hook (6)
R2: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (9)
Rounds 3-4: sc in each stitch around (9)
R5: hdc4puff, sc 8
Rounds 6-7: sc in each stitch around (9)
R8: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
R9: sc in each stitch around (6)
R10: *1 sc, 2sc* around (9)
Rounds 11-25: single crochet in each stitch around (9)
R26: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
*turn arm so that the “thumb” is facing down and flatten the arm. (I have several photos of these steps in my PDF) Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body.
FO with tail to sew onto the body.
*I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
HEAD *continue to work in a spiral
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 5: *1sc in next three sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 6: *1sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 7: *1sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Rounds 8-13: 1sc in each stitch around working in a spiral (42)
Round 14: sc3tog, sc 6, sc3tog, finish round with 30 sc (38) *TIP – MARK the sctog stitches with a piece of contrasting yarn to help later. This is where your eyes will go. So, this is the FRONT of the face.
Round 15: sc around (38)
The next round has instructions on doing puff stitch ears. ***you can skip this part if you want to do my other ear type that gets sewed on at the end. If you want to do a simple ear type that gets sewed after please see Ear Pattern at the end of this pattern.
Round 16: sc16 [ Do a hdcpuff5 stitch one row above in space. *TIP: you may want to mark the stitch just after the one you are puffing around because it may get hidden by your puff stitch. If you mark it, you can easily see it after your puff stitch is completed. You will not be making any actual stitch into the one your puff covers.] sc17, [do another Puff Ear just like above for next ear. *Due to the way working in the round makes your rows a little “off” you may want to puff stitch 2 rows above for the 2nd ear to make them more lined up. This is completely up to you and if you choose to do it you will not notice after your doll is done.] Sc 3 to finish round. (38)
Round 17: sc2, 3 sc in next stitch, sc7, 3 sc in next stitch, sc27 to finish round (42) *TIP: to make sure we are on the “same page” – these increases will be 5sc from each ear puff on the side.
Round 18: sc around (42) *now if you are with me, you should end two stitches in front of right ear. If not add or subtract some to get here.
Round 19: we will decrease now where the nose goes on this round: sc8, sc3tog, sc31 to finish round (40)
Round 20: sc 40 around
Round 21: sc6, (sc dec) 3, sc16, dec sc, sc10 (36)
Round 22: sc around (36)
**place your eyes, eye lashes/brows, nose, mouth etc before you go any further. This part is largely up to you. I have crocheted eyes for this doll. Instructions for these are later in the pattern. Here is a close up of how I did Melodie’s face.
Start decreasing. Stuff as required. It is important to have enough stuffing, but not so much you pucker your stitches out. You do want your dolls to be firm.
Round 23: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 24: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 25: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 26: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
FO leaving a long tail. After you push the last bit of stuffing up into your doll you want to sew the opening closed. Hide tail inside your doll by pulling the needle in and out of your doll a few times before cutting. ****if you are using a roller to stabilize the head you DO NOT WANT TO SEW THE HEAD CLOSED, BUT INSERT THE FOAM ROLLER INTO THE NECK CAVITY AND THE HEAD and then sew on.
Assemble. You want to sew arms just below neck and sew head onto body. You must sew the head on very well. I can’t say enough about how much sewing to do. I sew the head all the way around from round 4 on head to neck and pull tight. Just a few stitches around neck won’t be good enough. Some folks find that inserting a foam roller helps support the head better.
EYES:
I chose to embroider eyes for Melodie to give a baby/small child safe option for dolls. I know safety eyes and buttons are “mostly safe” but, I always caution against these things unless under supervision. So, Melodie has nice big all crocheted/embroidered eyes. See photo above.
I used my F hook for these and 4-ply worsted weight yarn, but if you want to make them a little smaller feel free to use a baby weight or sport weight yarn and go down a hook size or two.
For the left eye:
With the pupil color (me: dark brown) Chain 2 and make 5sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. Slip stitch to join and FO.
With the color you are using for the iris (me: med red/brown) join yarn to pupil and do the following stitches: sc and hdc in the same stitch, 2hdc in next stitch, hdc and sc in the next same stitch, slip stitch in the next stitch and FO.
Now, join white. Sc around the entire eye, but put 2sc in each of the outer 3-4 stitches. FO with tail to sew.
For the right eye start the same but when you get to the iris color, reverse the stitches above in italics – start with the slip stitch and then go backwards. Then when you do the white, make sure you have looked and lined up the eye to know where the “outside” is for the extra crochet stitches on the outer 3-4 stitches.
Melodie’s hair is also simple. Again, I wanted a doll that was baby and small child friendly with no loopy or dangerous hair.
With your G hook and hair color (I’ve used two shades of brown):
There are two pieces:
For the front “bangs” piece – chain 13. In the 2nd chain from the hook, sc and then sc across the chain until you get to the last chain. Make 3 sc in the last chain and then work along the bottom side of your chain until you get back to the 1st chain and then make 2 sc in the last chain. You should have 26 sc around your chain. Slip stitch to the 1st sc.
Now, chain the length you want your hair pieces all around this first oval. For my Melody doll, I chained 10 on the front for her bangs and chained 18 for a few side sprouts. After you make the length of chains you want, sc back up the chain and slip stitch in the next stitch on the oval and repeat. You can also hdc if you want chunkier pieces of hair.
For the second center part, start by making a circle:
Chain 2. Hdc 8 in the second chain from the hook. For the next round make 2 hdc in each stitch around (16 hdc) – the next round gets (1hdc, 2hdc)* around for 24 hdc. Round 4 is (hdc, hdc, 2hdc)* around for 32 and the last round is (1hdc, 1hdc, 1hdc, 2hdc)* around for 40hdc. *this is where I stopped. Place the “hair hat” on the head and see how you feel about it. You may think it’s too big (pull out a round) or too small (add a round) – this depends on your gauge and your stuffing etc. I sat the hair hat back some on the head since I had the front bang piece. I crocheted chains just like on the front piece, but the back pieces of hair for me were chains of 16 with hdc back up the chains and I did some shorter side pieces of chain 13-15. So, my circle looked like this:
chain 13, hdc 12 back up the chain and slip stitch in next space.
chain 14, hdc 13 back up the chain and slip stitch in next space.
chain 15, hdc 14 back up the chain and slip stitch in next space.
chain 16, hdc 15 back up the chain and slip stitch in next space. (repeat this row for as many rows of hair that you want minus 3 for the shorter pieces.)
chain 15, hdc 14 back up the chain and slip stitch in next space.
chain 14, hdc 13 back up the chain and slip stitch in next space.
chain 13, hdc 12 back up the chain and slip stitch in next space.
After finishing off this piece I made a few “highlights” in the same brown as my bang color. I just chained about the same as my main hair pieces and left two long tail to tie on the underneath of the hair hat.
I left the front unworked and just made sc in the front stitches and left a long tail to sew on. These photos may help you:
Now, sit the hair hat on the head and sew down. I did the hair hat first and then sewed the bangs on in front.
Removable Capri Pants:
I used my H hook and black 4-ply worsted weight yarn.
You will make 2 “tubes” to start. DON’T FINISH OFF THE SECOND LEG. The two get joined after you make the second leg.
Leave a small tail. Chain 18. In the 2nd chain from the hook, sc and then sc across the chain for 17 total sc. You are now going to join with a slip stitch to the first sc to form a ring. **use the starting tail to sew the gap closed. *this is how I like to do my rings so nothing gets twisted.
Rounds 2-22 are worked with one single crochet in each stitch around (17) you can choose to join and chain up 1 or work in a continuous spiral. FO and make one more, but don’t FO the second one. Just join them together with a slip stitch when you finish the 2nd tube.
After you slip stitch the two “tubes” together single crochet around both legs (34)
Repeat another round of sc around the top of the pants (34)
Now, you will continue to sc around the top of the pants with one sc in each stitch (34) until they get to be ALMOST the length you want. On the LAST ROUND you will do BLO HDC in each stitch around. FO
The bikini/bra is made with two triangles. So, make two:
Chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook put 1 sc. Chain 1 and turn. *chain 1 and turn after each row.
Row 2: inc sc (ch 1 and turn) (2sc)
Row 3: inc sc in 1st sc, sc in last (ch 1 and t) (3sc)
Row 4: inc sc, sc, sc (ch 1 and t)(4sc)
Row 5: inc sc, sc, sc, sc, (ch 1 and t) (5sc)
Row 6: inc sc, sc 4 (6sc) ***FO for FIRST Triangle ONLY.
Make the 2nd but do NOT FO. After the 2nd triangle is done place them together with the long side up and the first one on the left. Your hook and yarn should be in the middle of the two pieces ready to work across the BOTTOM OF THE FIRST Triangle.
Single crochet across the bottom of the first triangle (6sc) and then chain 15 when you get to the corner. Slip stitch back up the chain 15 and then sc up the side of the first triangle to the top of the first triangle. Chain 15 again (this is the top strap) and slip stitch back down chain) Slip stitch down the inside (neck side) of the first triangle, make one slip stitch in the join, slip stitch up the inside of the right side triangle and then chain 15 for the top strap of the right side. Then slip stitch back down the chain and sc in the side of the right triangle. When you get to the bottom corner, chain 15 and slip stitch back to the bottom of the right triangle. After you make 6sc you should be back where you started. FO and weave in the ends.
Tank Top:
Use your I hook and a scrap of 4-ply yarn.
This piece is crocheted from the bottom up.
Chain 30 and join to form a ring. Be careful not to twist your work.
Work one sc in each chain and work in a continuous spiral. You can choose to join and chain 1 if that is your preferred method. Work straight for about 11 rows.
On this next round, decrease to 24 sc around – so, (Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around
Sc in each stitch around (24)
On this next round, decrease to 18 sc around – so, (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around
Sc in each stitch around (18) – slip stitch in next
Chain 8, skip 3, slip stitch in next 7, chain 8, slip stitch to back. Finish off.
Sweater:
Melodie’s sweater is super easy to make and also easy to modify to be shorter or longer. You can use this to make a shorter short sleeve top or a long thick coat.
I used my I/5mm hook and Premier Puzzle yarn in “Dominoes”
For the length of my sweater:
Chain 43.
Row 1: In the 2nd chain from the hook, hdc and hdc in each chain across (42) Chain 1 and turn
Rows 2-5 are hdc across the chain for each row with a chain 1 and turn at the end of each.
Row 6: After row 5 you will chain 1 and turn, but then hdc only 21 hdc. Then,
Chain 22 at the end of row 6.
Row 7: In the 2nd chain from the hook you will hdc and hdc in each chain/stitch back down for (42 hdc)
Rows: 8-11: Repeat 2-5. Do NOT FO
You are going to fold the front pieces down and pin in place.
I placed my pin where my arm hole will start. Your yarn should be in the perfect place now to pick it back up and crochet or slip stitch through the two layers – top and bottom – to close up the side of the sweater. Make about 13 sc or slip stitch up, but leave the arm hole open. SC about 16 sc around the arm hole – all around – front and back – you will continue working in the round in a continuous spiral manner until the length of the sweater arm you want is complete. Mine was about 15 rounds. I finished with a slip stitch around the cuff.
FO and pick up yarn on the other side and repeat.
After you have both arms, attach your yarn to the front left bottom side and make the following stitches going up the side, around the neck and down the other side:
(Evenly space the stitches) sc 10, hdc 8, dc 10, hdc 8, sc 10. Chain 1 and turn.
Now, work in the FLO for this round:
Sc 10, hdc 8, 2dc in each dc* (that is 20dc), hdc 8, sc 10. Chain 1 and turn.
Repeat the round AGAIN: sc 10, hdc 8, 2dc in each dc* (that is 40 dc), hdc 8, sc 10. *If you don’t want the big “frilly” top just skip the dc increases.
When you get to the bottom of this round continue with a simple dc border along the bottom.
The alternate ears are a simple circle like this:
Leave a short tail to start. Chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook make the following stitches: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, chain 3 and slip stitch back into first stitch and FO with tail to sew. The dc is the bottom of the ear – so, flip the second ear over when you sew. The ears get sewed on about 5-6 stitches behind the eyes with the top of the ear even with the eye. I use the two tails to tie on and then hide the tails inside the head.
Stay tuned for even more DOLLS all year!
Thank you XOXO, Melodie March
#thecalendarkids
#melodiemarch
@theburgundybasket on IG would love to see your Melodie dolls <3
