If you are a crocheter and have a baby or toddler, play room or nursery, and love organization and helping your child learn – this series is for you!
I have a HUGE LOT of EXTRAS!!!! Extra patterns that you can either add to your collection or substitute – for example, in my Original Series I have P is for Pig, Penguin and Panda, but on this EXTRAS event, I am now giving you P is for Pony (pattern below). You could also change this up and do H is for Horse. You can substitute or make them all OR each pattern stands on it’s own!! I have already blogged B is for Bird , C is for Cow and G is for Goat as extras.
***Just as a quick update to all following my original post – I am working to finish up the Big Finale, but I can’t seem to get my life together =) So, I am giving away more free patterns while you wait. Kidding, but I have found lately that I am not able to get to my office as much as I have been the last few months.
This EXTRA TOYS EVENT will include Cow, Goat, Racoon, Squirrel, Alligator, Deer, Fox. Wolf, Giraffe, Lamb, Bee, Duck, Bat and Princess so far, but I am sure I will be making LOTS MORE!!! Most of the above patterns were made as part of a huge baby bundle that I did at the beginning of this year. You can find more info on this ETSY LISTING.
Want a fun way to use your scraps? Want to make a lot of little projects/toys that are great for little ones? Want to custom a special piece for a wee one? – and then end with one big finale? This A-Z Crochet Toy Series is for you! (And you can skip the big finale if it’s not for you and still have all the little toys and ABCs.) I’m gonna give you some options at the end to make the final part right for you/your space.
How you can get PDFs for one cheap price:
I have compiled the first letters of this event in a convenient downloadable PDF if you prefer to print them out and have them all in one place. And my printable paid patterns contain a lot more photo tutorials to help you if you need.
You can find the toys for all the letters in my Etsy Shop. I have them broken down into smaller parts, but have just uploaded the final huge part.
Part 1: A-F HERE ON MY ETSY.
You can find Part 3 with the letters N-S
The last small part – Part 4 with the letters T-Z is now available.
If you’ve been waiting to purchase the PDFs until the end now is your chance!! I can’t even believe they are all finished or that I am giving away everything for this one small price.
MY ENTIRE COMPLETE SERIES PLUS A BUNCH OF EXTRAS IS NOW AVAILABLE.
There are OVER 60 patterns in that final bundle!!! 60+ toys patterns.
And MOST ALL of my PAID patterns contain way more photos and tutorials than what I can add to my blog post. I try to keep my fees very low.
This project was in my head as I was designing all of these letters and I’m so excited to get this series finished! Won’t you join me? If you prefer to shop on Ravelry for your patterns I also have the entire alphabet PDF over there. 
I will try to work on uploading these to Ravelry if you prefer Ravelry for your patterns, but it will be a while. If you are familiar with Ravelry, you may know that I have to upload each one separately over there – I can’t list bundles together so each and every small toy must have it’s own page. That will take me a while, but I will try to get it done. I don’t believe I will be able to do it all this year.
I’m gonna give you some options at the end to make the final part right for you/your space. Make sure to check out THE ORIGINAL POST to link hop to each one of the patterns here on my blog – there are at least two toys for EACH LETTER OF THE ALPHABET.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then or a visit to any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.
Here is my Etsy Shop PDF for the Baby Pony and it is also over on Ravelry.
I also have a separate bundle for my Big Giant Horse and the Baby Pony in my ETSY SHOP and also a TRIO of the Baby Cow, Pony and Goat.
I will be keeping THIS ORIGINAL POST updated with all the links for all of the toys in the original series.
UPDATE: H is for Horse or P is for Pony: Oct 15, 2020
Materials
-Yarns: Caron One Pound in Taupe and Lace, Red Heart Super Saver in Country Blue and Light Blue, and a scrap of yellow. This is a great scrap yarn project. This little guy requires very little yarn so use what you have and make him fun. I did stripes, but you can make him solid as well.
-Hook: I used a G/4mm and H/5mm hooks for this pattern. I will include which one on each section.
-Safety Eyes (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. The eyes in my example are made by SunCatcher Craft Eyes and are 18mm. SunCatcher eyes used to be sold on Amazon, but now they are not, but I have ordered these in a bunch of sizes and they are really really great!! I will be ordering these again – it’s hard to find cute, large eyes.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
TIP Counting:
I also tend to open the calculator on my phone and keep track of “rounds” and stitches by my calculator. For example: if I need to do 4 rounds of 36 stitches I will do “4×36=144” on my calculator and then subtract as I go. So, I might do 30 sc and stop (144-30) get up and do something and come back and so forth until I get done. This keeps me on track and keeps me from having to use and move stitch markers. I only advise this if you are good with counting and have no distractions.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Halloween sweets, treats, and more have arrived on Amazon!
Stitch Index:
Chain: Ch
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
HDC: half-double crochet
HDC Inc: increase in HDC
DC Inc: increase in DC
DC: double crochet
TR: treble crochet *US Terms apply
This pattern starts with nose/head and then the rest of the body is worked. I will make notes along the way to assist with this. I will also make notes where/when I change colors.
I start my work with a chain 2 and then single crochet in second chain from hook, but you can also start with a magic ring if you prefer that start.
If you check out my Etsy shop and search for Peony the Pony and Unity the Unicorn, they are virtually the same pattern as this using different colors. This may give you some more ideas to create <3
For my Baby Horse/Pony pattern, I switched color from the nose to the back of the head, but for my Baby Goat pattern, I have used all one color for the head and the body.
HEAD:
For this first part of the pattern, I will write out this “long start” on how I do my first few rounds in amigurumi, but after this head portion, I will simple use the numbers, but this is how I start each and every round when I do amigurumi.
Chain 2. Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
You want to move your stitch marker -if using one- to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 6: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Rounds 7-12: sc in each stitch around (36)
*after round 12: *do your embroidery for the mouth/nose how you would like before getting too far ahead so that you can tie off ends inside. My mouth is between rounds 4-5.
Also make your nostrils and sew them on. Mine are a simple circle of sc 6 in a ring and then for the next round make 2sc in each stitch around for 12sc. Then slip stitch around in each stitch and ended with a long tail for sewing. The nostrils are between rounds 5-9.
Some people prefer to do the face parts after stuffing and completing the entire piece – if you prefer that method that is quite fine. Everyone is different.
FO with a long tail to sew down and make mouth.
Round 13: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
Round 14: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Round 15: sc in each stitch around (24) *change color when completing the last stitch if you are changing color like in the horse and cow.
Round 16: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 17: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 18: sc in each stitch around (36)
Round 19: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Rounds 20-22: sc in each stitch around (42)
Round 23: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
Stuff and continue to stuff as you go.
Round 24: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30) ** I placed eyes between rounds 19-20 at this time with about 7-9 stitches/holes between them.
Round 25: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Round 26: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Round 27: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
Round 28: sc in each stitch around. *Make sure there is enough stuffing in the back of the head and then sew shut and weave in your end.
Ears (make 2 in each color) – USE YOUR H/5mm hook
Chain 2. Make 5sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. *continuous rounds with no join*
Round 2: inc, 4 sc (6)
Round 3: inc, 5sc (7)
Round 4: inc, 6sc (8)
Round 5: inc, 7sc (9)
Round 6: inc, 8sc (10)
Round 7: inc, 9 sc (11)
Round 8: inc, 10 sc (12)
Round 9: inc, 11 sc (13)
Round 7: inc, 12 sc (14)
– finish off with a long tail for sewing
Sew the bottom of the ear closed and pull your stitches to gather it up a little and then cinch and sew to the top of the head. I have sewed the ears from my example between rounds 23-24.
Body: I used the same color from the back of my head for the body. I feel that you need to probably use the same color from back of head as you do the body – at least for the upper neck portion – to make your sewing blend in and be invisible. You do not want to do all this work and then have visible sewing stitches. The body starts from the bottom up and we leave an opening at top for the neck. You want to pin your head in place and make sure to stuff the neck VERY well before final stitches to support the head.
I chose to make this example striped and switched colors every 4 rows. I just carried my yarn up the inside of the body instead of cutting it each time. For planning purposes, you might want to have the upper leg color match the section of color on bottom where you sew the legs and the upper “arms” match the part of the body where the arms get sewed. This just helps hide your sewing stitches and gives you a cleaner look.
Round 1: 6 sc in starting chain/circle
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 6: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 7: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)
Round 8: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)
Rounds 9-18: sc in each stitch around (48)
Round 19: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (42)
Round 20: sc in each stitch around (42)
Round 21: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)
Round 22: sc in each stitch around (36)
Round 23: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)
Round 24: sc in each stitch around (30)
Round 25: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Round 26: sc in each stitch around (24)
Round 27: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Round 28: sc in each stitch around (18) *finish off but leave a long tail to sew on the head.
Feet/Legs (make 4):
*I have used my H/5mm hook for these to make it easier, but I was only lightly stuffing them. If you go up to this hook size for ease just be aware of overstuffing. I also crochet tight so going up to an H hook may not be an option for you. You never want to have gaps or holes in your work.
I started in the taupe color and changed to the dark blue to sew the legs on my dark blue stripe around round 6. If you are going to gather up the foot like in my example in the same color as the foot, leave a long tail at the start of your work to do this and pull it back to the outside of your work after around round 3 or so.
Round 1: 6 sc in starting chain/circle
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Rounds 5-6: sc in each stitch around (24)
Round 7: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Round 8: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
Round 9: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (9) *change color to your leg color here if you are making a color change.
Rounds 10-29: sc in each stitch around. *You can add more rows or take some out if you prefer (9)
Sew the bottom legs around round 6. I position them under where they look nice, but my amigurumis can still “sit.”
Gather your foot “together” and cinch it up by just weaving a piece of yarn through the upper foot and down to the bottom and pulling tight and tying. Make several passes if you want a thicker “line.” Weave the ends inside the foot.
The tail is a simple braid from a few strands pulled through the back of the body first and then braided and knotted.
The mane for the horse/pony is simple short tied strands of yarn on the upper head between the ears and down the back of the head. Trim as desired. I made eyebrows when doing the mane by starting in the top of the head, making one eyebrow, then the other, and pull the tail back out close to my start and tying those two together and adding it into the mane.
Will you be joining in the fun? I’d love for you to make all of this with me, but if not pick a few and make it with me.
I’d love to see all your work or catch up with your progress so connect with me over on IG @theburgundybasket
#youandmeabccrochet
XOXO,
Kristi
Our heelers, Ruger and Rebel get this box subscription every month and we LOVE IT!!! I highly recommend.
Thank you so much for stopping by. I hope you are all enjoying this crazy, fun thing!! Catch up with me over @theburgundybasket on IG. I’d love to see you and your makes there.
Pin this post and come back for all of the A-Z toys! Here is a link to the original post below to start from the beginning!!
I realized after I started this project that I would never be able to update every new post with every new link – once I got down to the end of the alphabet, I would have to update about 20 post with all the links to all the new patters – So, I will be keeping THIS ORIGINAL POST updated with all the new links for all of the new toys. <3
So, pin or save this post and come back and follow along with me or subscribe to my blog and get email updates when I make a new post.
