If you are a crocheter and have a baby or toddler, play room or nursery, and love organization and helping your child learn – this series is for you!
I have a HUGE LOT of EXTRAS!!!! Extra patterns that you can either add to your collection or substitute – for example, in my Original Series I have R is for Rainbow or Robot, but on this EXTRAS event, I am now giving you R is for Racoon (pattern below). Many of these extras were part of a huge baby ensemble that I did earlier and can all be found as printable PDFs from my Etsy Shop. I will post some link below.
I have already blogged B is for Bird , C is for Cow , H is for Horse or P is for Pony, S is for Squirrel and G is for Goat as extras and you can find them all on my blog by clicking on each one.
***I HAVE FINISHED THE HUGE FINAL PROJECT!! I AM SO EXCITED TO BRING THAT TO YOU***
This EXTRA TOYS EVENT will include Cow, Goat, Squirrel, Horse/Pony, Alligator, Deer, Fox. Wolf, Giraffe, Lamb, Bee, Duck, Bat and Princess so far, but I am sure I will be making LOTS MORE!!!
Most of the above patterns were made as part of a huge baby bundle that I did at the beginning of this year. You can find several different bundle sets for my baby animals in my Etsy Shop including the racoon pattern that is below.
The Racoon pattern can be purchased separately from MY ETSY SHOP and on Ravelry 
I have three bundles that include the racoon- small, medium and large.
This small set includes four baby animals including the racoon.
This medium set includes 8 baby animals and can be found HERE IN MY ETSY
And last this huge large bundle includes ALL of the baby animals and can only be found all together HERE IN MY ETSY SHOP.
Want a fun way to use your scraps? Want to make a lot of little projects/toys that are great for little ones? Want to custom a special piece for a wee one? – and then end with one big finale? This A-Z Crochet Toy Series is for you! (And you can skip the big finale if it’s not for you and still have all the little toys and ABCs.)
I’m gonna give you some options at the end to make the final part right for you/your space.
How you can get PDFs for one cheap price:
I have compiled the first letters of this event in a convenient downloadable PDF if you prefer to print them out and have them all in one place. And my printable paid patterns contain a lot more photo tutorials to help you if you need.
You can find the toys for all the letters in my Etsy Shop. I have them broken down into smaller parts, but have just uploaded the final huge part.
Part 1: A-F HERE ON MY ETSY.
You can find Part 3 with the letters N-S
The last small part – Part 4 with the letters T-Z is now available.
If you’ve been waiting to purchase the PDFs until the end now is your chance!! I can’t even believe they are all finished or that I am giving away everything for this one small price.
MY ENTIRE COMPLETE SERIES PLUS A BUNCH OF EXTRAS IS NOW AVAILABLE.
There are OVER 60 patterns in that final bundle!!! 60+ toys patterns.
And MOST ALL of my PAID patterns contain way more photos and tutorials than what I can add to my blog post. I try to keep my fees very low.
This project was in my head as I was designing all of these letters and I’m so excited to get this series finished! Won’t you join me? If you prefer to shop on Ravelry for your patterns I also have the entire alphabet PDF over there.
I will try to work on uploading these to Ravelry if you prefer Ravelry for your patterns, but it will be a while. If you are familiar with Ravelry, you may know that I have to upload each one separately over there – I can’t list bundles together so each and every small toy must have it’s own page. That will take me a while, but I will try to get it done. I don’t believe I will be able to do it all this year.
I’m gonna give you some options at the end to make the final part right for you/your space. Make sure to check out THE ORIGINAL POST to link hop to each one of the patterns here on my blog – there are at least two toys for EACH LETTER OF THE ALPHABET.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then or a visit to any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.
I will be keeping THIS ORIGINAL POST updated with all the links for all of the toys in the original series.
UPDATE: R is for Racoon: Nov 6, 2020
Materials:
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for most of this pattern. I will make any notes to changes on this in the pattern.
I use this Clover set and love it – but, my large hooks are from this less expensive brand and I love them as well.
Yarns: Baby R was crocheted with Big Twist Classic in Gray and White with a scrap of I Love This Yarn in Black. *note: Big Twist Classic yarn is labeled a #5 acrylic yarn, but my experience with this yarn is that it works up like a small #4. I treat this brand just as I would any number 4 yarn that I use like RHSS or Caron for amigurumi making. This brand is sold by JoAnn’s Craft Store and has a lovely sheen to it if you have never used it. I do not recommend this yarn for beginners because it is a bit different as far as the texture goes. I have also used the smallest scrap of slightly darker gray to do the ear tips and make eye brows and some hair between the eye patches.
-Safety Eyes (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. I have used larger 18mm eyes for this pattern, but they are clear around the edges so with the black eye patches you can adjust the size of these if you don’t have ones this large.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
– I don’t typically use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!
Here is a great set with everything you need for Amigurmi. I have ordered both of these sets as gifts.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
TIP Counting:
I also tend to open the calculator on my phone and keep track of “rounds” and stitches by my calculator. For example: if I need to do 4 rounds of 36 stitches I will do “4×36=144” on my calculator and then subtract as I go. So, I might do 30 sc and stop (144-30) get up and do something and come back and so forth until I get done. This keeps me on track and keeps me from having to use and move stitch markers. I only advise this if you are good with counting and have no distractions.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitch Index:
Chain: Ch
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
HDC: half-double crochet
HDC Inc: increase in HDC
DC Inc: increase in DC
DC: double crochet
TR: treble crochet *US Terms apply
Head: This pattern starts at the back of the head and works toward the nose. I will note below where I change colors for the face.
***This pattern is a modification of my Pink the Dragon pattern and as such I have left some of the photo tutorials from that pattern in this pattern – this is why some photos will not be the same color.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 5: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 6: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 7: 1 sc in each stitch around (36)
Round 8: *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Rounds 9-11: 1 sc in each stitch around working in a spiral (42)(42)(42)
Round 12: *sc in each of the next 5 sc, dec sc* repeat around (36)
Round 13: sc in each stitch around (36)
Round 14: ***place a stitch marker here in the first stitch. *** sc in each of the next 20 sc, chain 10, slip stitch in marked first stitch, (see photos). Chain 1 and sc in each stitch around (30)
Rounds 15-16: sc in each stitch around (30)(30) – *change to the lighter face color on this last stitch.
Round 17: Back Loop ONLY (BLO) sc in each stitch around (30)
Round 18: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 19: *1 sc in next two sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (18)
Round 20: sc in each stitch around (18)
Round 21: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 22: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Rounds 23-24: sc in each stitch around (30)
Round 25: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 26: *1 sc in next two sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (18)
Round 27: *sc, inv dec* around (12)
Finish off and leave a tail to sew closed.
You can add the nose at this point or wait until your head is finished. I like to move to the next section and do a little of the body before I make the face so that I can stuff the head and pin everything in place. After I get a little of the body made (below) and stuff the head, I make up the eyes – pin in place – remove the stuffing and sew everything in place and add the safety eyes, nose, eye brows etc and then stuff again and resume the body. I find this most helpful in getting everything placed just right and keeping the stuffing out of the way of your sewing. So, I am putting the pattern for the eye patches next, but you can come back up to them after you start the body if you want to work them after.
Eye patches: These are simple half circles made up in black for the first 3 rows and then switching to white on the last row. You work half circles in the same method as a full amigurumi circle, but instead of joining and continuing in the round, you chain one and turn and work back the other direction – so, they are worked in rows, but with the same stitch count as a circle. In these circles, I am doing 5, 10, 15 and 20. Full pattern:
Leave a long tail in your black for sewing. Chain 2. Make 5 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. Chain 1 and turn.
Make 2 sc in each stitch across (10) Chain 1 and turn
Sc, 2sc across the row (15) – change to white on the last stitch – Chain 1 and turn
Sc, sc, 2sc across the row (20) – leave a long tail in your white for sewing.
You will sew these to the head on either side of the nose with the tips of the eye patches touching on top of the nose. Use the long black tail to sew the black part and the long white tail to sew the white part. After you sew on the eye patches pop in your safety eyes if you are using them. After I had the eyes sewed down and stuffed the head again, I used the tail from one of the eyes to make the mouth line and then used this tail to draw the face in a little to flatten it just a bit.
Body:
Start body at back of head (see photo) – sc around piece *I got 29. This part isn’t crucial – you may get a few more or a few less. It is okay. Just make sure your stitches are evenly spaced and don’t look puckered. It should be around 30.
On the second round you are going to decrease to get 20 sc. You want to decrease this round evenly from whatever you had on the previous row. Just decrease around using inv. dec to get 20 stitches. So, for me since I had 29, I did (1 sc, 1 dec) around.
Rounds 3-4: Sc in each stitch around (20)(20)
Start stuffing head and stuff as you go. Insert safety eyes if you are using them. **from my note above this is where I usually stop to pin my eye patches in place and then take out stuffing and sew those down before continuing.
Round 5: Increase this round by 4 evenly spaced stitches to end up with 24.
Rounds 6-8: sc around (24)(24)(24)
Round 9: *1 sc in next three sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Rounds 10-12: sc around (30)(30)(30)
Round 13: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 14: sc around (36)
Round 15: *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Round 16: sc around (42)
Round 17: *1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (48)
Rounds 18-22: sc around (48)
Round 23: *sc in each of the next 6 sc, dec sc* repeat around (42)
Round 24: *sc in each of the next 5 sc, dec sc* repeat around (36)
Round 25: *sc in each of the next 4 sc, dec sc* repeat around (30)
Round 26: *sc in each of the next 3 sc, dec sc* repeat around (24)
Round 27: *sc in each of the next 2 sc, dec sc* repeat around (18)
Round 28: *sc in the next sc, dec sc* repeat around (12) FO and sew opening closed.
The heart patch is a simple heart shape. Chain 2. Make all of the following stitches in the 2nd chain from the hook: sc, hdc, dc, tr, chain 2, slip stitch in the same space, chain 2, tr, dc, hdc, sc, slip stitch and finish off with a tail to sew.
Ears (make 2 in each color) – USE YOUR H/5mm hook
Chain 2. Make 6sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. *continuous rounds with no join*
Round 2: inc, 5 sc (7)
Round 3: inc, 6sc (8)
Round 4: inc, 7sc (9)
Round 5: inc, 8sc (10)
Round 6: inc, 9sc (11)
Round 7: inc, 10 sc (12)
Round 8: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 9: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 10: sc in each stitch around (24) – finish off with a long tail for sewing
Sew the bottom of the ear closed and pull your stitches to gather it up a little and then cinch and sew to the top of the head. I have sewed the ears from my example between rounds 7-8. *I’ve used a little brown eye shadow for some shading in the ears and the top of the head.
Feet/Legs (make two):
In my example, I have started in black and switched to the gray color. I have also used my H/5mm hook for the feet/legs since I was not stuffing them much.
Ch 2 Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1 sc in next two sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around (24)
Round 5: 1 sc in each stitch around (24)
Rounds 6-7: 1 sc in each stitch around (24)(24)
Start your Decreases and stuff as you go. Stuff how it is easiest for you. I usually stuff around my 18 sc round. Stuff the feet firm, but don’t over stuff the legs. I didn’t add any stuffing to my legs.
Round 8: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 9: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
Round 10: sc in each sc around (12)
Round 11: repeat round 8 (9)
Single crochet in each stitch around until you reach the length you desire for your legs. I ended up with 15 total rows in my example. If you are changing color like in my example, I changed from black to gray after making 5 of these last rows. So, 5 rows in black and then 10 in gray.
Arms (make two):
Ch 2
Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (15)
Round 4: 1 sc in each stitch around (15)
Rounds 5-6: 1 sc in each stitch around (15)(15)
Start your Decreases and stuff as you go. Don’t overstuff your arms. I only add stuffing to the bottoms in the “hands” and leave the arm free.
Round 7: *sc in next 3 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (12)
Rounds 8: (sc dec over the next 2 stitches) x 2, then sc in the next 8 sc (10)
Rounds 9-20: sc in each sc around (10) *if changing color, change in these rows after about round 13.
Finish off, but leave a long tail for sewing to the body.
Tail:
The tail is a simple long tube. I have started in gray on my example so that the color at the top of the tail matches the body for sewing reasons. Color changes after every 4 rows. It is not necessary to cut your yarn – just carry it up the inside of your work since this won’t show.
You’ll start with a simple circle like some of the parts above – 6, 12, 18 and 24. Follow the first 4 rounds of the head if you need the stitch counts on this part. After round 4 (24) you work straight with no increases for 8 rounds – just 24 stitches around. Stuff at the end of tail to maybe half way up.
Rounds 5-8 (24) in gray
Rounds 9-12 (24) in black
Round 13: (gray) decrease evenly around 4 stitches to 20 sc. If you need: (sc 4, dec)*
Rounds 14-16 (20) in gray
Rounds 17-20 (20) in black
Round 21: (gray) decrease evenly around 4 stitches to 16 sc. If you need: (sc 3, dec)*
Rounds 22-24 (16) in gray
Rounds 25-28 (16) in black
Round 29: (gray) decrease evenly around 4 stitches to 12 sc. If you need: (sc 2, dec)*
Rounds 30-32 (12) in gray
Rounds 33-36 (12) in black
Rounds 37-40 (12) in gray
Will you be joining in the fun? I’d love for you to make all of this with me, but if not pick a few and make it with me.
I’d love to see all your work or catch up with your progress so connect with me over on IG @theburgundybasket
#youandmeabccrochet
XOXO,
Kristi
Our heelers, Ruger and Rebel get this box subscription every month and we LOVE IT!!! I highly recommend.
Thank you so much for stopping by. I hope you are all enjoying this crazy, fun thing!! Catch up with me over @theburgundybasket on IG. I’d love to see you and your makes there.
Pin this post and come back for all of the A-Z toys! Here is a link to the original post below to start from the beginning!!
I realized after I started this project that I would never be able to update every new post with every new link – once I got down to the end of the alphabet, I would have to update about 20 post with all the links to all the new patters – So, I will be keeping THIS ORIGINAL POST updated with all the new links for all of the new toys. <3
So, pin or save this post and come back and follow along with me or subscribe to my blog and get email updates when I make a new post.
