Let’s do this 2020 thing! If you didn’t see the post where all The Calendar Kids ©️ were introduced, you may enjoy seeing what is coming up each and every month this year. Every month this year, a new doll pattern will be here for you to enjoy for FREE! Make sure to pin this pin and come back on the first of each month for a new free pattern – or just follow my blog and you will get an email when I post new content.
My dolls all feature different hair and face techniques to make a doll for multiple age groups. So, if you popped over to check out my May doll and don’t love him, make sure to pin this post and check out other months because they are all different.
And BEST of ALL – MOST require very little sewing as MOST have the heads as a continuation from the body.
Here is a pin you can save for later to follow me this year as I share my love of these dolls with you.
Can’t wait to make all the dolls this year? Or want to combine a few patterns/clothes to custom make your own doll? You can find the entire 204 page E-book right HERE on Etsy. *I am in the process of modifying this to move parts that are redundant and make this smaller. So, stay tuned. **I have it down to 170 pages and just need to edit it a bit more. It will be replacing the current one soon if you are waiting. If you prefer Ravelry, I also have them set up for you here – for Ravelry you have to put them all in your cart rather than in an eBook format. 
This is Mario. Mario is adventurous and popular! He has a great sense of humor and loves playing basketball, video games and surfing! You can find him on the beach in the summer or hanging out with his friends on the court most days. He’s a very nice guy! In school he loves math and science and treats everyone with kindness.
Mario May- Mario is one of two of my boy dolls. The other is Owen October. Mario has “built” in clothing. His pants and t-shirt are crocheted as the body so there are no extra clothes to fiddle with. He has his socks crocheted instead of the feet, but his boots/shoes are made separate and removable and perfect for all my dolls. Change the color up to make colorful high-top sneakers. His face is a bit different and his hair hat is also made a little different. This type of hair hat/hair is a great style for girl or guy with single stranded 4-ply worsted weight yarn and easily trimmed into any hair style. His pattern includes different boy “shoulder” shaping for that buffed look and also includes a back pack pattern that is great for all of the dolls. His PDF is 17 pages and available at my ETSY HERE
or my Ravelry
All of my paid patterns have more photos, tips and tutorials etc. My free blog patterns give all the written pattern, but more photo tutorials are included in my paid pattern.
Did you miss my other dolls this year? If so and you want a quick link to them here they are:
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then from any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
THE CALENDAR KIDS©️ Mario May ©️ DOLL PATTERN
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family, so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Mario May ©️ Is the fifth doll in a yearlong series of dolls. Each month in 2020, I will be making a new doll to accompany Mario and all my dolls, will feature different, changeable clothing, hair and face techniques.
Mario, and all his friends, can be found only right here. Join me this year as I make all my Calendar Kids ©️ Come to life. Find me at TheBurgundyBasket.com
All of my patterns are written using US Crochet Terms.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things.
Materials:
These dolls are designed to have stash-busting in mind. For many parts of these dolls you only need the smallest scraps of yarn. Even for the skin parts, you won’t need that much. I encourage you to dig through your stash pile. When you need larger amounts, I will make note of these on all of my dolls. My Calendar Kids ©️ range in size from 17-22”, but your size may vary depending on the yarn and hook that you use.
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for this for the most part. Any changes will be noted.
-I typically use Caron One-Pound for all of my Amigurumi, Dolls and Toys. It is a great, sturdy yarn that doesn’t get “splitty” when crocheting and it holds up well for little hands. I will note what my skin color is for each doll because Caron makes great skin tones! I will also note any different materials that I use.
For Mario, I have used Caron in Taupe for his skin. His pants are Lion Brand Jeans yarn in Brand New and I have used a scrap of red to start his feet for his socks and his shirt is a variegated scrap from my stash. His hair is Caron One Pound in Espresso.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. This is the safety eye pack that I’ve used for Mario:
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer. Now, I am an avid toy maker and use a lot of stuffing, so I always get the 50-100 pound box at my JoAnn’s store when it is NOT on sale and I have a 50% off coupon. If you don’t have access to a local store with a box and are also an avid toy maker you can get this big box delivered for free.
Optional, but very nice for head support: 6-pack of foam rollers:
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker! If you are new to crochet doll making or want to get yourself a gift I highly recommend this kit that has it all.
Hints and Tips for Stuffies, Ragdolls, Amigurumi etc.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Invisible Single Crochet 3 Together: inv3sctog
Double Crochet: DC
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
HDC Puff Stitch (x): hdcpuff(x): I use a half double crochet puff stitch for some parts of the dolls. Sometimes it a 2 puff, sometimes 3, 4, and sometimes 5. For example, to hdc puff (4) you will: Yarn over and insert hook into space, pull up a loop, yarn over and insert hook into space again and pull up another loop, (that’s 2), yarn over and pull up another loop (3), and finally, yarn over and pull up a loop for the 4th time. Now, yarn over and pull through all loops on chain. This is a hdc puff (4) – sometimes I will specify a 3 and sometimes a 2 – this is how many times you yarn over – it makes either a small or a large puff.
*continuous spiral crochet
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
Basic Doll Feet/Legs with “Toes” (make 2)
For Mario I started with Red for socks and did not make toes.
*continuous spiral crochet
If you are making a doll with boots, socks or tennis shoes etc. just skip the puff stitched “toes” and carry on with regular single crochet.
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
Right Foot/Leg:Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook 2sc, sc in the next 8st, 4sc in last stitch, going along other side of chain: sc 8, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – we are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28) *if making socks just work in both loops
—————————————————————————————————————-
IF MAKING SOCKS/SHOES/BOOTS: R4: Sc around (28) and then GO TO Round 5 below.
IF MAKING FEET: R4: sc 12, hdc puff 4, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 2, sc 11
R5: sc 8, (inv dec) 6, sc 8 (22)
R6: sc 5, (inv dec) 6, sc 5 (16)
R7: sc 4, (inv dec) 4, sc 4 (12) *start stuffing*
*stuff leg firm as you go up. This doll can stand up when completed – at least propped up – but, the feet and legs need to be stuff firm.
R8-20: sc around (12) – that’s 156 stitches if you are working in the spiral
For Mario, there are some color changes from socks to skin to jeans so I will break down those rows here – if you are not doing these changes and working the basic doll pattern just make sure you have the same number of rows as I do (rounds 8-20) – for example if you are making a doll with black leggings your rows 8-20 may be in all black.
Mario Rounds 8-20:
Rounds 8-12 – Sc 12 in each round all around in the color you are using for socks. I have used red.
At the end of round 12, pull up your sock loop a little and drop it from your hook. DO NOT CUT just drop your loop. In the BLO of the next stitch, add on your skin color. For me, that is my Taupe color. Work in the BLO for Round 13 the skin color all the way around (12) and when you get back around to the first stitch, pull up a loop and drop your skin color but DO NOT CUT YET. Pick your sock color back up on your hook and crochet IN FRONT OF THE LAST ROUND IN THE FRONT LOOP ONLY. You will be making 1hdc around in the FLO in your sock color – So, Round 13 has both the skin color (BLO) and the sock color (FLO). After you do 12 hdc around in the sock color join to the first hdc in the sock color and FO with a small tail to weave in. Pick the skin color back up and do the next rounds through both loops.
Rounds 14-15: sc around in the skin color for both of these rounds (12)(12). After you get done with these stitches ADD a few more stitches to the end of this round to get to the back of the leg. *you may not need to do this, but I had to add two stitches to be in the back of the leg. Your join of your new color and end off of the first one should be mostly invisible, but if you put them in the back it helps – just in case. You can FO the skin color with a small tail to weave in.
Round 16: In the BLO – use whatever color you are using for the jeans – and BLO sc around (12)
Rounds 17-20: make one sc in each stitch around (12)(12)(12)(12)
At this point make sure your foot/sock/leg is stuffed well and then weave in your ends.
Rounds 21-35 (12)
Finish OFF. Join the jeans color yarn back to the open front loop of Round 16 (photo below). Ch 1 and hdc in each stitch around. Join when you get back around to the first stitch. Ch 1 and do 2-3 more rows of hdc to make the jeans “cuff.” You can choose how big to make your cuff. After you finish off your yarn for the jeans cuff, leave a length of tail to weave in and out of cuff to secure it in the “up” position.
Left Foot/Leg: DON’T FASTEN OFF THE SECOND LEG
For the left leg you will work exactly as the right if you are making socks like for Mario, but the basic doll pattern with “toes” has this modification for the Left leg:
R4: sc 11, hdc puff 2, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 4, sc 12
*just in case you need clarification, the puff stitches make “toes” so the larger puff is the big toe etc.
You will make the second leg all the way up and then join the two and make hips. After you end the jeans color you will GO BACK DOWN TO MAKE JEANS CUFF ON BOTTOM OF SECOND LEG just like you did for the first leg.
NOW – hold both legs facing you with toes toward you. You want to be at the center part of the inside of the left leg – so, maybe crochet a few extra stitches. You are joining the legs on the inside edge. (see photos) Single crochet a few stitches around the left leg until you get to the most “inside” stitch. This will NOT make any difference at the end. *after round 35, you may be at a point on your left leg where it makes more sense to pull out a few stitches instead of adding some – that is totally fine as well.
Slip Stitch into the inner most stitch of the LEFT leg then chain 6 and slip stitch into the coordinating inner most stitch on the RIGHT leg to join the two legs. Chain up 1.
R1: sc in the same space as the chain 1 and around the right leg for a total of 12, sc in each chain of the chain 6 space, sc around the left leg for 12, single crochet in the same chain 6 space in front of the other single crochets (36)
Rounds 2-8: sc around (36)- on the last stitch of round 8 you will switch color to your t-shirt color. If you are not crocheting a t-shirt for you doll “built” in to the body you may be changing here to the skin color instead. TIP: I like to do my color changes on the back side of my work so I usually do a few more single crochet to get back around to the back side of the body.
In new color and in BLO: R9: sc around (36)
R10 – 15: IN BOTH LOOPS sc around (36) ***check your stuffing***
*this is where I stopped to make the jeans pockets and “fly” on the front of the jeans.
The pockets are simple squares:
Chain 5. Sc in second chain from the hook and in the next 3. Chain 1 and turn.
Row2: Sc 4. Chain 1 and turn
Row 3-4: Repeat row 2.
Row 5: sc2tog, sc2tog. FO with tail to sew.
Row 5 is the bottom of the pocket. Line up on the back of the pants and sew down.
For the front of the jeans – the “fly” – I did two simple rows of surface stitches.
I outlined the fly and the two pockets with a light-yellow embroidery yarn.
Now continue with the upper body:
R16-25: sc around (36)
*at the end of round 25 it is SUPER important that you be in the middle stitch of the back. This is the place where I am starting my count to make the arm holes and shape up to the neck.
See photos. You should have 36 stitches so that leaves 18 for each side. It is super important to have 36 stitches right now. If you do not, do not fear – take out the last row and make any adjustments like a decrease or increase if you need. If you need to adjust, do this in the back of the body.
Mark the middle stitch on the front of the body. Mark this stitch – you will have 18 stitches for each half
From the center stitch on the back, here are your stitches that you will work for round 26:
[inv sc dec, sc, sc, inv sc dec, chain 6, skip 6, inv sc dec, sc, sc, inv sc dec] (this should put you at the marked stitch in the middle on the front) repeat above from [to] (28)
Round 27: sc around (28)
Round 28: (sc, inv sc dec, sc, sc 6 (these are on/over the arm hole), sc, inv sc dec, sc) repeat once (24)
Round 29: sc in the next two stitches, inv sc dec over the next two* repeat around (18) *check your stuffing and continue to stuff as needed
Round 30: sc in the next stitch, inv sc dec over the next two* repeat around (12)
FO the t-shirt color.
Go back down to the bottom of where the t-shirt starts on Round 9 and in your FLO, you are going to join your t-shirt color yarn. Do this on the back of the doll. Flip the doll body feet up and hdc around in the FLO until you get back to the first hdc. Join and FO. Hide all ends inside the body.
Now, here you can choose to do the arms or join yarn to the neck of t-shirt and go on to the head. I think the arms are the better place to go next, so that you can make sure you have enough stuffing inside the body when you get to the head. If your arm holes are open when you do the head your stuffing might not stay. Also, if you are using a foam roller for head support, you will want to have those arm holes closed up to get it inserted and stuffed just right. I also wanted to “buff” up the shoulders and upper arms, so I did the arms first.
So, for those reasons I am presenting the arms next in the pattern:
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2)
****I USE MY E/F HOOK FOR THESE***** I used my E hook for the girls and the F for the boys.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) – continuous spiral
Round 1: Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc from round 1, make (1 sc, 2 sc)* repeat around (9) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 9 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
R3: *1 sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (12)
R4-5: sc in each stitch around (12) (12)
R6: sc 7, ch 3, skip 1, sc 4 (11sc and one chain 3 space)
R7: sc 7, 3sc in the space, sc 4 (14)
R8: sc 7, inv3sctog, sc 4 (12)
R9: *sc in next 2sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (9)
R10-21: sc in each stitch around. At the end of round 21- on the last stitch- switch color to your t-shirt color **again, I will usually add a few stitches to be on the underside of the arm.
R22: sc in the BLO of each stitch using the t-shirt color
R23: (sc, sc, 2sc) * around (12)
R24: (sc, sc, sc, 2sc) * around (15)
R26: 2sc, sc 14 (16)
R27: sc in each stitch around (16)
FO and leave a long tail to sew to the shoulder of the shirt. BEFORE you sew the arm onto the body, make the t-shirt arm hem around the arm in the empty front loops on round 22. Now do the thumb:
THUMB: join yarn to the side of the thumb space and sc evenly around for 6 sc. (R1)
R2: 6sc around
R3: dec sc around (3) FO and pull tail through hand before cutting. Shape thumb *I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
And now sew to the body:
When you sew the arm to the shoulder, you will have 6 stitches on the top of the shoulder, 6 on the bottom and you will do 2 stitches in the sides of the arm hole. **make sure to twist the hand so that the thumb is in the right position on each hand before you sew to the shoulder. After sewing the arms on I pushed a little stuffing into the shoulder to make him “beefy” 😊
HEAD *continue to work in a spiral
The body ended with the t-shirt color on round 30 above. You will now join your skin color – I like to be in the back of my work to join new colors –
This is optional and NOT necessary if you are using a foam roller. *for my necks I like to do a double thick layer – so, for this first round of the head, you will sc around in BLO and then continue on this same round in front of those stitches and sc around in the FLO. This adds a little support. *if you are adding the foam roller for support you do not need to do this double row of stitches. I only did this for demo purposes. Adding the foam roller is all I have used on most of my dolls.
So, we are starting the head with a new round count. Round 1 has 3 parts if you are not using a roller or rod for support:
Round 1 part 1: sc around the neck in the BLO (12)
Round 1 part 2: sc around the neck in the FLO (12)
Round 1 part 3: sc around the neck through both stiches to secure them together.
*If you find this difficult or too tight, just do one round. If you are using a roller you should be fine.
Round 2: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 3: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 4: *1sc in next three sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 5: *1sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 6: sc around (36)
Round 7: *1sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Rounds 8-10: 1sc in each stitch around working in a spiral (42)
Round 11: On this round stop and face doll toward you. You need to find the FRONT MOST 8 STITCHES on the front of the face. They should line up with the inside of the shoulder. See photos:
Mark the front 8 stitches and then proceed. *You may want to mark where you are this round so you know where to finish* You will sc around until you reach the first marked stitch and then you will do 4 inv sc decreases over those 8 stitches. Then sc around to finish the round. You should end with 38 sc.
Rounds 12-13: sc around (38)
Round 14: For this round you are going to do the opposite of what you did on Round 11. (See photo) – you are going to inc sc two rows above where you did your decreases. In the below photo, you will see the marked line and just above that you can see my decreases – above that you see my sc in in the round above – then, where I have marked (4 stitches), I am going to increase in each one of those – so, the opposite of what you did earlier. When you get done you will again have 42 single crochet.
Rounds 15-19: sc around (42)
This is where I stop to do the face and then start stuffing.
The nose for Mario is a simple circle that starts with a chain 2 and then make 5 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. Then make 2 sc in each stitch around for 10sc and then do one more round of 10 sc.
I weave my tail in and out of the bottom where I finished off and pulled a little tighter before sewing.
The below photo should help you position the eyes. I have them just over and just under from the increases you just did. I sewed the nose between the eyes just a little lower and embroidered the mouth. I have added a little dark brown yarn just above the eyes and eyebrows.
The ears are a simple circle like this:
Leave a short tail to start. Chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook make the following stitches: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, chain 3 and slip stitch back into first stitch and FO with tail to sew. The dc is the bottom of the ear – so, flip the second ear over when you sew. The ears get sewed on about 5-6 stitches behind the eyes with the top of the ear even with the eye. I use the two tails to tie on and then hide the tails inside the head.
Start decreasing. Stuff as required. It is important to have enough stuffing, but not so much you pucker your stitches out. You do want your dolls to be firm. You need the heads stuffed well to hold the hair.
Round 20: *1 sc in the next 5 sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (36)
Round 21: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 22: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 23: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 24: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
FO leaving a long tail. After you push the last bit of stuffing up into your doll you want to sew the opening closed. Hide tail inside your doll by pulling the needle in and out of your doll a few times before cutting.
Mario has “typical” doll hair in that you make a “hair hat” and then loop individual strands around the hair hat and trim to style. I gave him a longer “shaggier” haircut, but you can trim to your liking. The hair hat it is not a regular “hat” shape. You start in rounds, but then change to rows in the back.
HAIR *continue to work in a spiral. I have used my H hook, brown yarn and HDC not Sc.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi)
Round 1: 6hdc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: when I am working in a continuous spiral and in hdc what I do for round 2 is this: 1sc in the first stitch and 1 hdc in the same stitch and then 2hdc in each stitch around (1 sc and 11 hdc) *what this does when working in the spiral is give you a nice transition from round 1 to round 2. After this it is not any problem with any “jog.”
Round 3: *1hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next hdc** repeat around (18)
Round 4: *1hdc in next two hdc, 2hdc in next hdc** repeat around (24)
Round 5: *1hdc in next three hdc, 2hdc in next hdc** repeat around (30)
After you finish round 5, you are going to continue working in a spiral – so, don’t join – but, do 18 more hdc, 1 sc and then Chain 1 and turn.
19 hdc across and then 1 sc. Chain 1 and turn.
20 hdc across and chain 1 and turn.
(20 hdc. Chain 1 and turn.) repeat this row again.
(Dec hdc, hdc across until you get to the last two and then dec hdc over the last two.) repeat this row until you have 14 hdc.
Chain 1 and turn and do one more row of 14 hdc. FO with LONG tail to sew hair around head.
You can see in the above photo my hair “hat” before I looped all the hair on.
Next, just cut all your hair strands and loop them around hair hat like you normally would for a doll.
Now, up to this point you have Mario dressed in socks, jeans and a shirt. He only needs his boots on.
For my doll, I have used two shades of brown. I started the boots in the darker color and did the tops in the lighter color. Do this same method for high top tennis shoes and use whatever colors you want for the shoes – ex. White bottoms, blue tops.
Boots *with your H hook and your bottom boot color:
Do as for feet for rounds 1-4. I will list that here again for ease:
Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook 2sc, sc in the next 8st, 4sc in last stitch, going along other side of chain: sc 8, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – we are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28)
R4: sc around (28)
R5: sc around (28) and on last stitch change color to your upper boot color
Rounds 6-7: sc around (28)
Now, you will slip stitch around in the BLO until you get to the FRONT FOUR STITCHES. (See photo below) – for me, I had to slip stitch 4 times.
Now, in those FRONT FOUR STITCHES you are going to SC BLO in only those four and then chain 1 and turn.
Work in rows:
Sc across 4 and chain 1 and turn. * repeat this row two more times.
After you finish those rows so a slip stitch, hdc, hdc, and slip stitch for the final row (top of tongue) and then slip stitch down the side of the tongue to get back to the main body of boot.
Sc in the FLO of the same stitch as the last stitch of the bottom of tongue and then sc around in FLO of the entire boot/shoe. You will end in the FIRST stitch where the tongue started so that stitch will also have 2 stitches in it like the last stitch of tongue. I think that is confusing, but maybe this photo will help —-à
There are only two unworked stitches in the front where the tongue is.
Chain 1 and turn. Sc around the top of boot until you get back around and then chain 1 and turn and come back across one more time.
My shoe laces are just some crochet thread.
May is for Mother’s Day as well and these are some of MY FAVORITE THINGS that I have gotten from Amazon and given as gifts or kept for myself:
Backpack:
Using your H hook and scrap or two of 4-ply worsted weight yarn.
Chain 2.
Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in.
You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3: (Make 1 sc in next stitch, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)
Round 4: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)
Round 6: BLO sc in each stitch around (30) *if you are changing color, change color here on the last stitch.
Rounds 7-10: sc in each stitch around (30)
Round 11: dec sc, sc 28 (29)
Round 12: sc in each stitch around (29)
Rounds 13-14: repeat rounds 11-12 (28)
Rounds 15-16: repeat rounds 11-12 (27)
Rounds 17-18: repeat rounds 11-12 (26)
Rounds 19-20: repeat rounds 11-12 (25)
Rounds 21-22: repeat rounds 11-12 (24)
Round 23: sc in each stitch around (24), FO and weave in the end.
The top flap is made separate and then slip stitched on.
Repeat rounds 1-5 for the backpack.
After you get done with round 5, you will work in rows to make a little piece to join the two together. After round 5, work a sc in the first 8 stitches, chain 1 and turn and repeat a few rows (I did 4 rows) and then slip stitch to the back of the bag portion.
Make 2 handles. Mine are simple chain 21 and hdc down the chain. Sew on.
The top handle is a simple chain 12.
Thank you XOXO, Mario May
#thecalendarkids
#mariomay
@theburgundybasket on IG would love to see your Mario dolls <3
See you next month!! <3
