Meet Sugarcane the Sheep: Farm Series

Sugarcane “Sugar” is the latest pattern in my Farm Series!  You can checkout most of my Farm Series patterns right here on my blog or purchase the PDFs with hints and tips for all through my Etsy.  The free blog patterns don’t contain all my hints/tips or photographs like my paid patterns, but they do give the basics.  

UPDATE. : Prize giveaway here

UPDATE: I have put together a Bundle Set with all 14 Patters and one low price. See THIS POST

Ginger the Goat was the pattern before this one – #10! – and she can be found HERE.  Before that, I released Polly and Puff Chicken.  Polly and Puff are the 9th in my Farm Series and on Etsy right HERE. .  Amigurumi just makes me so happy – each animal has their own personality at the end and making them is so joyful!   Sugar can be found on Etsy HERE.  It is a 13-page PDF with lots of hints and tips because:

I need to add a note here. This is my most complicated and time-consuming pattern that I have written to-date. I am a fast crocheter and most of my animals take me about a day to make. This one took 2.5 days. One for the head and one for the body and a half for legs and sewing them on. The chain loops are TEDIOUS. I know. I know…they took me a whole day of work. But, they make this animal shine! They are super cute and very cool – but, if you want to skip adding them please do. This is your animal. They are not essential. They are tedious and time consuming and difficult, but if you do choose to do them maybe do them a little at a time. I have two videos to help with this:  

 

Another option instead of doing loops,  is to crochet a strand of fun fur with a strand of baby weight/sports weight yarn. Hold both together and then you’ll have instant “hair.”

Did you meet Haybelly the Horse? Or Digger the Donkey?  I also have Barley the Beagle and Butterbean the Bunny with a free addition to her pattern for her baby, Clover.  And the three patterns before those were the sweet Dixie the Duckling, Cocoa the Cow, and Peaches the Pig.  And don’t miss Lambert the Llama – he’s my most visited pattern to date here on my blog.  I only have two small animals to do for my Farm Series: Sugar is getting a baby and last will be a Barn Cat.

You can also purchase BUNDLES of these patterns at a reduced price. I have my first four on a bundle HERE and the second four HERE and if you purchase any of these two, I will send you baby Clover for FREE if you send me a message from Etsy after your purchase.  My last patterns will be available in my last bundle and I also plan to do the entire Farm Series if I can get it in one download.

 

This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.

You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.

If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.

Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

This post does contain affiliate links.  I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same.  I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things. 

Materials:

-Yarn: Caron One Pound in White for body with Big Twist Rainbow Classic in White for the chain loops to make up the “hair” and also for the back of head – please note that although Big Twist Rainbow Classic is listed as a #5 Bulky yarn it does not work up like a bulky yarn. As a matter of fact, after using it for the back of the head, I realized that it actually worked up too small for my liking, so, for the body I switched to my Caron White for the inner body part. I did like it for the chain loop “hair” as it has a nice softness and sheen to it. I do not recommend it for the basic body though if you want a nice size animal like mine. It is thinner and does work up smaller. My sheep measures almost 24” with the materials that I have used.

Caron One Pound in Soft Grey Mix for legs/arms

Some scraps of pink (inner ear color and “heart” nostrils and mouth) and a scrap of black to divide the feet.

I have also used a scrap of white fun fur to make some hair on top of her eyes after she was finished.

-Hook: I used a G and I hook for this pattern. I used my G hook on everything except the ears and on those I have used my I hook.

-These are the hooks I use exclusively now.  They have helped end any hand pain I had.

-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face.  These are the eyes that I used for Sugar.  They have a metallic pink backing that slips under the eye and are slightly sparkly.

-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.

– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker!

If you are new to crochet or just want to upgrade your supplies this is a fabulous kit. I have this kit – it comes with all you see and it a great price for the quality.

Stitches Used:

Chain: Ch

Single Crochet: SC

Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated

Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease

Hdc: Half double crochet

Slip Stitch: sl st

FO: finish off

This is a simplified pattern as stated – a chart with the numbers – you need to have knowledge of crochet amigurumi and how to do rounds and increases to read. If you do it will be pretty straight forward. **all of my paid for patterns come with a “cheat sheet” to help with this part.

I start my work with a chain 2 and then sc in second chain from hook, but you can also start with a magic ring if you prefer that start.

This pattern starts with nose and works back to head and then the body is worked. I will make notes along the way to assist with this. Of course, you don’t have to do it that way, but I love to make all my head parts and sew it up and have my animal look at me while I finish up the body =)

Nose/Head: G hook for all of the head and body. NOTE: it is very important for good sewing and invisible stitches that when you plan your colors the neck part of the body needs to be the SAME color as the back of the head.

This pattern starts at the front of face (nose) and works to the back to the head. So, I started with my grey yarn.

Row/Round	Stitch Count/Number
1	6
2	12
3	18
4	24
5	30
6	36
7	42
8	48
9	54
10	60
11	66
12	72
13-17	72
18	66
19	60
20	54
21	54
22	48
23	48
24	42
25	42
26	36
27-32	36 *on the last stitch change to white (or your head color)
33-34	36 *from here on out you need to STUFF AS NEEDED
35	42
36	48
37	54 *my eyes went here between this round and the next. There are about 10 holes between them
38	54
39	54 **Please jump down below chart to read NOTES
40 (chain loop round)	54 -please read notes below. This round is worked in reverse and is the first round of chain loop stitches. I also have a video tutorial on this.   Please read at the beginning of this pattern for the link.																									This round is simply: sc, chain 5, sc in next stitch, (chain 5, sc in next) repeat around. You start in the marked stitch on face (READ NOTES BELOW) and end 5 stitches before next eye to equal the other side of face. Just do sc with no chain spaces across front of face. You will work a sc in every stitch around and have a chain 5 space for each sc except between the marked stitches on face. Work over to first loop made and go to next round.
41 (single crochet round)	54 – sc around ****I have this in my video, but these are NOT post stitches. You need to sc under the two inside loops of each single crochet around -under those two inside loops and not around the entire stitch. My video tutorial shows this really well. But, see photos below for more.
42-43	Repeat 40-41: I added an extra chain loop before and after the chain loops from 2 rows before. My video shows this well, but basically the chain loops start moving closer to the eyes. You are not adding stitches – just an extra 2 loops. Skip this part if its confusing because you can add extra loop stitches when you are done if you like.
44-45	Repeat 42-43 – please don’t stress about missing a stitch here or there.   The loops will hide it.
46	Repeat row 40, but you are doing chain loops all the way around including the front of the face.
47	(54) – sc around still just under those two inside loops. **On this round you want to count your stitches to see if you are still at 54.   If you are not please don’t worry – if you are at 52 or 53 it is fine. We start decreasing on the next round so just do one or two less decreases to make it right.
48	(48) This is STILL a chain loop round. Repeat the chain loops, but decrease down to 48 stitches around evenly. The video shows this as well – you are just doing a decrease over two single crochet like normal.
49	(42) this is a sc round. Dec as normal, but just use those two inside loops.
50	(36) This is a chain loop decrease round. Repeat round 48, but you are going down to 36 stitches.																									*Make sure you have enough stuffing.
51	(30) this is a sc round. Dec as normal, but just use those two inside loops.
52	(24) This is a chain loop decrease round. Repeat round 48, but you are going down to 24 stitches.
53	(18) this is a sc round. Dec as normal, but just use those two inside loops.
54	(12) This is a chain loop decrease round. Repeat round 48, but you are going down to 12 stitches.
55	(12) this is a sc round. Dec as normal, but just use those two inside loops. FO and sew shut.

NOTES: After the end of row 39, you want to be at the top of the head. If you’ve already embroidered the mouth please check its position and then single crochet up to the top of the head and mark the face – see photos below. Mark the face about 5 stitches from both of the eyes – you want to pop these in at this point BUT DON’T PUT SAFETY BACKS ON UNTIL YOU ARE 100% SURE YOU ARE READY FOR THAT. I left off my back until I finished most of my chain loops around the face. After you mark this stitch you are going to CHAIN 1 AND TURN because we are going to now be working in reverse.

Above: my photos show the inside two loop of the single crochet from the row below that you sc through for the single crochet rounds like on round 41 and 43.

Nostrils: My nostrils are made from this heart pattern that is not my own:

https://www.skiptomylou.org/crochet-heart-applique/

You can also do simple circles or embroider them.

I made up these hearts and sewed them down AFTER my face was stuffed to make sure they were in the right position and equal.

Ears (make 2): *I used my I hook for these to get them bigger and floppier. I also chose two colors: inner ear (pinkish) and outer ear (body color)

These are basically just two circles crocheted together at the end.

Make 2 pieces in your inner ear color and two in your outer ear color. FO the inner ear circle and weave in your end, but DO NOT FO the outer ear colored circle when you are done.

Ch 2. In Hdc make 10 hdc in second chain from hook

*working in continuous spiral make 2 hdc in each stitch around (20)

(make one hdc in next stitch, two hdc in next stitch) repeat around (30)

(make one hdc in the next 2 stitches, two hdc in next stitch) repeat around (40) ** see note below

After your ear color circle is complete hold both the pink and ear color piece together with Wrong Sides facing in to each other and sc around both pieces to join. Now, FO the ear with a long tail for sewing. After the pieces are joined you will fold them in HALF with the long tail at one end and then sew up about 5 stitches. I chose to sew back down again so that my tail would be ready to sew the ear on the head. (your tail should now be back where you started)- I sewed my ears just behind my eyes and under them. Position how you like

NOTE: As I mentioned above in my materials section, the Big Twist Rainbow yarn worked up to be smaller for me than the inner ear color, so I had to adjust my pattern for this. If you are using the same materials as I do or you get the outer ear to be a little smaller, just add one more row of increases to the outer ear color circle. So, it would be: (make one hdc in the next 3 stitches, two hdc in next stitch) repeat around (50). Now, you might think, “but how am I going to stitch together the two pieces if they have a different number of stitches?” – like this: When you are working your sc round to stitch the two pieces together simply go into the inner ear twice every 4^th stitch. Since you will be working evenly on the outer ear stitches at 50 sc, you will sc two times in the inner ear only every 4^th sc stitch. I hope that is not confusing.

 I chose to make some eyelids to fold over and sew over the eyes of my sheep. This is optional and up to you, but if you do want to make those it is just the same pattern as the first two rows of the ears. Just fold in half and sew in place.

Body: G hook. Just in case you are making a colorful sheep: I used the same color from the back of my head for the body. I feel that you need to probably use the same color from back of head as you do on at least the upper body to make your sewing blend in and be invisible. It will require good sewing for this head because it is large. You do not want to do all this work and then have visible sewing stitches due to the fact that you have two different colors. The body starts from the bottom up and we leave an opening at top for the neck. You want to pin your head in place and make sure to stuff the neck VERY well before final stitches to support the head. This large head needs lots of support. You will want to use more stuffing than you think you need.

 I am going to add this note again:

This is my most complicated and time-consuming pattern that I have written to-date. I am a fast crocheter and most of my animals take me about a day to make. This one took 2.5 days. One for the head and one for the body and a half for legs and sewing them on. The chain loops are TEDIOUS. I know. I know…they took me a whole day of work. But, they make this animal shine! They are super cute and very cool – but, if you want to skip adding them please do. This is your animal. They are not essential. They are tedious and time consuming and difficult, but if you do choose to do them maybe do them a little at a time. I have a video linked at the start of this pattern with some tips and helpful advice. Another option is to crochet a strand of fun fur with a strand of baby weight/sports weight yarn. Hold both together and then you’ll have instant “hair.”

I have used two yarns – the Caron One Pound first to make up the body and then the Big Twist Rainbow after I was done to make my loops. So, starting with your first yarn:

Row/Round	Stitch Count/Number
1	6
2	12
3	18
4	24
5	30
6	36
7	42
8	48
9	54
10	60
11	66
12-21 (10 rows)	66 decrease starts now
22	60
23-24	60
25	54
26-27	54
28	48
29-30	48
31	42 start stuffing: NOTE: It is easier to me to make the chain loops after you are done if your animal is not stuffed, but this part is up to you.   You can always take it out or add it later.
32-33	42
34	36
35-44 (10 rows)	36 keep stuffing
45	30
46	30 ***This is where I stopped to make my chain loops around the body because if you decrease any more than this you will not be able *probably* to stuff. So, if you have not yet stuffed go to the chain loop part and then come back and do these final decreases and then add the last chain loops. See Notes below.
47	24
48-49	24 stuff, stuff, stuff
50	18 FO *leave super long tail to sew on the head.

I have a full video linked at the start of the pattern that shows how I started making and doing my chain loops. Basically, you are going to attach your yarn (the yarn for your “hair” toward the bottom (I chose round 10 so that my animal would sit easily) and then (chain 5-6-7 chains and slip stitch in the next stitch)* – all the way around. I gave a lot of hints and tips in my video, but basically:

1. Don’t worry about missing stitches when you do this. As a matter of fact, depending on your yarn you may be able to do every other stitch and every other row – especially if using a fur or bulky weight yarn.
2. It is tedious. Put it down when it gets to be “too much” and come back to it. These loops on my body took a full day.
3. If you are having trouble doing slip stitches in the body to make your chain loops then do a single crochet instead. It will be fine.

After you are done doing your chain loops all the way around – go back up and make the last few rows of decreases on the neck and add more chain loops to this part and sew the head on.

Feet/Legs (make two):

I used my G hook and started with my Grey color. **if you are not using a contrasting color like me (black) leave a long tail AT THE BEGINNING of your work. About 12 inches at least. This will be used to make the hoof. These are big round feet. They are big. If you want your feet/hands to be smaller just don’t do my final increases and start the decrease instead. They will still be fabulous! I also stuff the feet/hands VERY well and not so much in the arms and legs.

Row/Round	Stitch Count/Number
1	6
2	12
3	18
4	24
5	30 *make sure your long tail is on the outside if you are cinching up the foot with the same color
6	36
7-14	36
15	30
16	24*if you are using different colors change color here for leg color on the last stitch.
17	24
18	18
19	12
20-39 (20 rows)	12 *FO leave long tail to sew. I flattened and sewed mine between rounds 4-8 – see photo below

Yarn tail through your embroidery needle. Use the long tail to go up to the top of the hoof part and insert your needle and go back down (through the inside) and out in the same place you started and pull tight to cinch up the foot. I did this part four times before tying off and hiding my yarn inside. Try to get the yarn in and out of the same two holes (one on the beginning and one on the top) each time.

Arms/Front Legs (make two with G hook):**you will leave a long tail for these as well – just like foot – and shape hoof the same way.

Row/Round	Stitch Count/Number
1	6
2	12
3	18
4	24
5	30
6-11	30
12	24
13	18 *if changing color change here on the last stitch.
14	18
15	12
16-35 (20 rows)	12 *FO but leave long tail to sew

After I got my sheep done, I did some more fun fur chain loops to fill in the top of her face around her eyes/ears. I did this the same way as the body.

Thank you so much for purchasing my pattern. I would love to see your work so please tag me @theburgundybasket on IG #sugarcanethesheep

 

 

And that is it! I’d love to see all your finished animals over @theburgundybasket on IG

And I like to bring you some of my favorite things! I am a big “amazoner” and these are some things that are my recent favorites or gifts or things I have used in my local business.