Let’s do this 2020 thing! If you didn’t see the post where all The Calendar Kids ©️ were introduced, you may enjoy seeing what is coming up each and every month this year. Every month this year, a new doll pattern will be here for you to enjoy for FREE! Make sure to pin this pin and come back on the first of each month for a new free pattern – or just follow my blog and you will get an email when I post new content.
My dolls all feature different hair and face techniques to make a doll for multiple age groups. So, if you popped over to check out my July doll and don’t love her, make sure to pin this post and check out other months because they are all different.
And BEST of ALL – MOST require very little sewing as MOST have the heads as a continuation from the body.
Here is a pin you can save for later to follow me this year as I share my love of these dolls with you.
Can’t wait to make all the dolls this year? Or want to combine a few patterns/clothes to custom make your own doll? You can find the entire 204 page E-book right HERE on Etsy. *I am in the process of modifying this to move parts that are redundant and make this smaller. So, stay tuned. I have a few changes from my pattern testers and then the new version will be live**I have it down to 170 pages and just need to edit it a bit more. It will be replacing the current one soon- if you are waiting. If you prefer Ravelry, I also have them set up for you here – for Ravelry you have to put them all in your cart rather than in an eBook format. 
This is Jae-Lynn. Jae-Lynn is a country girl at heart! She loves 4 wheelin’ with her brothers, riding horses, and has several farm animals that she cares for. She’s southern through and through. She is kind, caring and gentle and brings home many baby animals to save. She hopes to be a vet one day.
Jae-Lynn is the perfect doll to make if you are wanting to make a young girl. Unlike most of my dolls, she does not have “hip” shaping and a curvy body. She is made without hips, curves or breast. Her hair is simple. Her pattern has both versions of my arms, removable cowgirl boots and overalls and she is crocheted wearing her “undies.” She also features embroidered eyes so is perfect for the little ones. Her short overalls can be modified to be long. Her PDF is 17 pages with a lot of photo tutorials. You can find her PDF in my ETSY SHOP and my Ravelry.
All of my paid patterns have more photos, tips and tutorials etc. My free blog patterns give all the written pattern, but more photo tutorials are included in my paid pattern.
Did you miss my other dolls this year? If so and you want a quick link to them here they are:
Mario May-one of two of my boy dolls
Jazzy June GRADUATED this year as well so check out how to make a graduation gown and cap on THIS POST.
And, if you missed it check out how I modified Delaney December and Owen October to celebrate all the medical workers. You can read more ON THIS POST.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then from any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
THE CALENDAR KIDS©️ Jae-Lynn July ©️ DOLL PATTERN
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family, so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Jae-Lynn July ©️ Is the seventh doll in a yearlong series of dolls. Each month in 2020, I will be making a new doll to accompany Jae-Lynn and all my dolls, will feature different, changeable clothing, hair and face techniques.
Jae-Lynn, and all her friends, can be found only right here. Join me this year as I make all my Calendar Kids ©️ Come to life. Find me at TheBurgundyBasket.com
All of my patterns are written using US Crochet Terms.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog. These are a few of my favorite things.
Materials:
These dolls are designed to have stash-busting in mind. For many parts of these dolls you only need the smallest scraps of yarn. Even for the skin parts, you won’t need that much. I encourage you to dig through your stash pile. When you need larger amounts, I will make note of these on all of my dolls. My Calendar Kids ©️ range in size from 17-22”, but your size may vary depending on the yarn and hook that you use.
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for this for the most part. Any changes will be noted. These are the only hooks that I use now:
-I typically use Caron One-Pound for all of my Amigurumi, Dolls and Toys. It is a great, sturdy yarn that doesn’t get “splitty” when crocheting and it holds up well for little hands. I will note what my skin color is for each doll because Caron makes great skin tones! I will also note any different materials that I use -for Jae-Lynn, I have used Caron One Pound in Cream.
Jae-Lynn’s overalls are made in Vanna’s Choice Denim Mist. You will only need a small amount of one skein for this. I have used some scraps for the rest of her “clothes” – scraps for her under bra, underwear, and boots. Her hair is made from Lion Brand Heartland in Yosemite. You will need a skein for this. This brand has many other fun colors for hair.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. I have made this pattern to be all embroidered on the face – so, the face and eyes are up to you, but for Jae-Lynn she has an embroidered face.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
Optional, but very nice for head support: 6-pack of foam rollers:
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker! If you are new to crochet doll making or want to get yourself a gift I highly recommend this kit that has it all.
Hints and Tips for Stuffies, Ragdolls, Amigurumi etc.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Invisible Single Crochet 3 Together: inv3sctog
Double Crochet: DC
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
HDC Puff Stitch (x): hdcpuff(x): I use a half double crochet puff stitch for some parts of the dolls. Sometimes it a 2 puff, sometimes 3, 4, and sometimes 5. For example, to hdc puff (4) you will: Yarn over and insert hook into space, pull up a loop, yarn over and insert hook into space again and pull up another loop, (that’s 2), yarn over and pull up another loop (3), and finally, yarn over and pull up a loop for the 4th time. Now, yarn over and pull through all loops on chain. This is a hdc puff (4) – sometimes I will specify a 3 and sometimes a 2 – this is how many times you yarn over – it makes either a small or a large puff.
Basic Doll Feet/Legs with “Toes” (make 2)
*continuous spiral crochet
If you are making a doll with boots, socks or tennis shoes etc. just skip the puff stitched “toes” and carry on with regular single crochet.
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
Right Foot/Leg: Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook 2sc, sc in the next 8st, 4sc in last stitch, going along other side of chain: sc 8, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – we are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28) *if making socks just work in both loops
Round 4:
4a: IF MAKING SOCKS/SHOES/BOOTS: R4: Sc around (28) and then GO TO Round 5 below.
4b: IF MAKING FEET: R4: sc 12, hdc puff 4, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 2, sc 11
R5: sc 8, (inv dec) 6, sc 8 (22)
R6: sc 5, (inv dec) 6, sc 5 (16)
R7: sc 4, (inv dec) 4, sc 4 (12) *start stuffing*
*stuff leg firm as you go up. This doll can stand up when completed – at least propped up – but, the feet and legs need to be stuff firm.
R8-20: sc around (12) – that’s 156 stitches if you are working in the spiral
NOW FOR THE KNEE:
You may/will need to crochet around the leg a few more stitches until you get to the 4 FRONT-MOST stitches on the front of the leg. *I have a series of photos below to help with the next steps.
This is going to maybe be the trickiest part of your doll. The BLO stitches will be tight.
R21: In the four front-most stitches you are going to HDC FLO, chain 1, now turn – now, working BEHIND those 4 stitches you will HDC BLO behind those stitches (you are making a double layer) *the very first BLO stitch might be hard to get/see – just count over and find it. After you do the HDC BLO stitches, ch 1 and turn (you are back in the front of the knee now. Now, sc through both layers of the first 4 hdc stitches and then sc in the next 8 stitches (12)
R22: SC around (12) *your first sc of this round goes into the first hdc from the previous round.
R23: Sc in the first sc, (inc sc) 2, sc in the next 9 stitches (14)
R24-33: Now you will work 10 more rounds in spiral crochet – that is 140 stitches unless you are making underpants/bikini bottoms/etc like Jae-Lynn is wearing. If so read below:
For Jae-Lynn, she is wearing “underwear” that are crochet as you go – so, for her you will work in the skin color for 9 rounds and then change color to the shorts color on the last stitch and then crochet the last round of the legs in the color you chose for the underwear/shorts.
Finish OFF.
Left Foot/Leg: DON’T FASTEN OFF THE SECOND LEG
For the left leg you will work exactly as the right leg EXCEPT:
R4: sc 11, hdc puff 2, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 4, sc 12
*just in case you need clarification, the puff stitches make “toes” so the larger puff is the big toe etc.
NOW – hold both legs facing you with toes toward you. You want to be at the center part of the left leg – so, just like the knee, where you had to maybe crochet a few extra stitches, you are going to do the same here. You are joining the legs on the inside edge. Single crochet around the left leg until you get to the most “inside” stitch. This will NOT make any difference at the end. *after your rounds to the top of your leg, you may be at a point on your left leg where it makes more sense to pull out a few stitches instead of adding some – that is totally fine as well – but, if making underwear/shorts just look at your doll and do what makes the most sense – you want to have your colored section even on both sides. See the photo below. It may help to clarify any confusion. I have a series of photos included in my Andi April doll post that may help join the legs if you are having any trouble. So, hop over to that post and check out these steps below on that doll.
Slip Stitch into the inner most stitch of the LEFT leg then chain 4 and slip stitch into the coordinating inner most stitch on the RIGHT leg to join the two legs. Start your work now in the next stitch. *you may want to mark where your slip stitch is as it may be tough to see
R1: sc in each stitch around the right leg (14) and sc in each chain of the chain 4 space, sc around the left leg for 14, sc in the front of the chain 4 space (36)
Jae-Lynn is a simple version of my doll with no hips. She is perfect to be a younger girl or just a simpler pattern. My other girl dolls have “hips” but for Jae-Lynn these rounds are different than my basic doll.
R2-8: sc around (36)
R9: sc around (36) – on the last stitch of this round is where you need to switch back to skin color if you are making shorts – so, you may want to do some extra stitches or take off a few to switch color on the back. It makes your color change less visible to put them on the back. I also tend to make my first stitch of a color change a slip stitch instead of a single crochet – this also hides your color changes and gives you less of a “jog.” For Jae-Lynn, I worked in the BLO so I could add a band on her underwear, so, I added 10 stitches to get around to the back of her body before I started my 36 BLO on this round and then I switched back to the skin color.
R10: for round 10 you are going to sc around, but you are going to make 2 dec on each side of the body for a total of 4 less stitches around (32)
R11: sc around, but make 4 evenly spaced inv decreases. I did one on the front, one on each side and one in the back. (28)
R12-17: sc around (28) on the last stitch change your color to your bra/top color – ***I did NOT finish off my skin color, but just ran it up the inside of the back since I was only doing a few rows of color. ****again, I suggest all color changes be on the back ***check your stuffing***
*add belly button if you want at this point. I just embroidered one with skin colored yarn.
R18-21: sc around (28)
R22: sc around, but inv dec 4 sc evenly around your doll – I did one on each side and two on the back with some sc between them (24) *change back to skin color on the last stitch
R23: evenly inv dec 3 stitches on this round. I did one on each side and one in the back. (21)
R24: *start stuffing* (sc 5, inv dec) 3 (18)
R25: (sc, inv dec) around (12)
R26: sc around (12)
**now, for this part I am resetting the numbers back to the #1 for rounds to make it easier.
HEAD *continue to work in a spiral
Round 1: sc around (12)
Round 2: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 3: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 4: *1sc in next three sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 5: *1sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Rounds 6-8: sc around (36)
Round 9: *1sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Round 10: sc around (42)
Round 11: On this round you are going to sc around, but you are doing 4 sc dec stitches on the very FRONT of face – that is 4 sc decreases over the front 8 stitches. Mark the front 8 stitches and then proceed. *You may want to mark where you are this round so you know where to finish* You will sc around until you reach the first marked stitch and then you will do 4 inv sc decreases over those 8 stitches. Then sc around to finish the round. You should end with 38 sc. *just make sure you do 4 inv dec sc on the FRONT of face and finish the rest of the round in sc. (38) ***There are a series of pictures below to help with rows 11 – 14. The first step is to find the middle of your face. [below first photo shows this. I just use my crochet hook and go up from belly. You can see how I used the green yarn to mark these front 8 stitches (2nd photo below). The third photo below shows the green yarn now marking my 4 decrease stitches and the blue yarn marking the 8 stitches above these where your increases will go.]
Round 12-13: sc around (38)
Round 14: For this round, you are going to do the opposite of what you did on Round 11. (See photo) – you are going to inc sc two rows above where you did your decreases. In the below 3rd photo you will see the green line and just above that you can see my decreases – above that you see my sc in those in the rounds above – then, I have marked with a circle the 4 stitches that I’m going to put increase single crochet – so, the opposite of what you did earlier. When you get done you will again have 42 single crochet.
The eyes are positioned under the most distant increase. See in the picture where I have circles? *this doll has modified eyes and not safety eyes, but you can use what you prefer.
Rounds 15-20: sc around (42)
**place your eyes, eye lashes/brows, nose, mouth etc before you go any further. This part is largely up to you. The nose goes just above the center decrease stitches. You should have a natural pucker. You can choose horizontal across the middle 2 stitches or all 4 for a wider nose or vertical up and down starting between the center-most 2 decrease stitches.
Now, this part is optional, but if you have a Dollar Tree store it really, really does help because depending on how you do the hair, the head can be heavy. If you have access to a Dollar Tree (maybe other stores have them too) you want to grab a 6-pack of foam hair rollers. They are long tubes that offer support and slip right now the neck. See my photo. Use your finger or hook to move the stuffing around from the inside of the neck – make a “hole” down into the neck for several inches and insert the foam roller – then pack stuffing really good all the way around it. I have a link above in the materials section to add these to your Amazon cart if you can’t find these locally.
Start decreasing. Stuff as required. It is important to have enough stuffing, but not so much you pucker your stitches out. You do want your dolls to be firm.
On these next sc decreases – if you are covering the head with hair or a hair “hat” there is not any need to make invisible decreases.
Round 21: *1 sc in next 5, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (36)
Round 23: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 24: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 25: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 26: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
FO and leave a long tail for sewing. AT this point you really want to make sure you have stuffed the head well. Keep making a “hole” in your stuffing at the top of the head with your fingers pushing the stuffing to the outside and shaping head/face. Keep adding stuffing until the head is firm, but not overstuffed.
Sew hole closed and weave the end inside. There are a LOT more photos in the PDF version from my Etsy and Ravelry for the clothes, arms and ears – but, especially on the clothes below. Ravelry is here
The ears are a simple circle like this:
Leave a short tail to start. Chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook make the following stitches: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, chain 3 and slip stitch back into first stitch and FO with tail to sew. The dc is the bottom of the ear – so, flip the second ear over when you sew. The ears get sewed on about 5-6 stitches behind the eyes with the top of the ear even with the eye. I use the two tails to tie on and then hide the tails inside the head.
There are two versions of hands in some of my doll patterns. One version uses a smaller hook and has a thumb crocheted separate that gets sewed on and the other version uses the same size hook as your doll and has no thumb that gets sewed on – it just has a “puff” stitch thumb.
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2) *There is a simpler hand version below this with no thumbs.
****I USE MY E HOOK FOR THESE****
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) – continuous spiral
Round 1: Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc from round 1, make (1 sc, 2 sc)* repeat around (9) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 9 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
R3: *1 sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (12)
R4-5: sc in each stitch around (12) (12)
R6: sc 7, ch 3, skip 1, sc 4 (11sc and one chain 3 space)
R7: sc 7, 3sc in the space, sc 4 (14)
R8: sc 7, inv 3sctog, sc 4 (12)
R9: *sc in next 2sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (9)
R10-24: sc in each stitch around. Work in continuous spiral for 135 stitches
*turn arm so that the thumb “hole” is facing down and flatten the arm. (see pictures below) Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body.
THUMB: join yarn to the side of the thumb space and sc evenly around for 6 sc. (R1)
R2: 6sc around
R3: dec sc around (3) FO and pull tail through hand before cutting. Shape thumb *I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2)
****I USE MY G HOOK FOR THESE*****these arms are my “simple” version of arms and have no add-on thumbs at the end.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) *work in continuous rounds
Round 1: 6sc in second chain from hook (6)
R2: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc** repeat around (9)
Rounds 3-4: sc in each stitch around (9)
R5: hdc4puff, sc 8
Rounds 6-7: sc in each stitch around (9)
R8: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
R9: sc in each stitch around (6)
R10: *1 sc, 2sc* around (9)
Rounds 11-25: single crochet in each stitch around (9)
R26: *1 sc in next sc, inv dec sc over the next two** repeat around (6)
*turn arm so that the “thumb” is facing down and flatten the arm. Find the center stitch at the top of the arm (shoulder) on the opposite side from the thumb and mark it. You will sc around to this stitch and then (hdc, dc, hdc) all in that stitch to form a “shoulder.” Then sc 4-5 stitches around to under the arm and FO with a long tail for sewing onto the body.
FO with tail to sew onto the body.
*I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
Jae-Lynn’s Boots:
I started with brown and my size H hook and switched to black on the last stitch of round 4.
Make Feet pattern for feet until you get to round 6.
Boots rounds 7-16: single crochet in each stitch around (16)
For the last round to get the raised part on each side of the boot this was my stitch order:
sc, sc, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc, sc, sc, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc
***this round may be slightly different for you if we were not on the same count together. If so just hold up your boot and make sure the two treble crochets are on each side of the boots and adjust your stitches accordingly.
Jae-Lynn’s Overalls:
For the overalls, I have used my I hook and the Denim Mist yarn referenced in my materials section.
You will make two of these pieces:
Chain 20 and join to make a circle. You will be crocheting two “tubes” to start, but after you make your chain make sure if fits around your foot.
If your chain does not fit around the foot you are going to want to chain more to make sure your overalls will fit on after they are made.
After your chain is joined you will make about 8 rows of single crochet to make little “tubes” – so, for me I did 8 rows of 20 sc around for each row. I worked in a spiral crochet and did not join and chain up 1, but you can choose which way you prefer.
***you can also add a lot more rows and make full length overalls. You can slip them on the legs to see if you need to add rows.
After I finished my 8 rows, I did a row of slip stitches to make the “hem” for the bottom of the leg.
After you finish off and weave in your bottom ends, hold the two pieces together so that you can join them together. Make sure your hem side is on the bottom and then sc around the two pieces on top – for me that was 40 sc.
Round 2 of overall body: 6 inv dec sc evenly around your piece. (34) *your number may be different here if your stitch count was different.
Round 3: 34
Round 4: inv dec sc 4 evenly around (30)
Rounds 5-7: sc around (30) FO
This is a good place to stop for shorts, but test yours to check. Mark spaces on the front and back for the upper front and back section. I had 6 stitches between the front marked stitches and the back marked stitches (the open sides)
Attach your yarn to the front left side marker and sc to the next marker. (For me I had 10 sc between my front markers and 8 sc between my back markers)
You will chain 1 and turn for the front and back sections and work in rows.
After you sc across the front and chain 1 and turn work in rows until your desired length is reached. I did 10 rows. On the last two rows, I did a dec sc on each side to end the top with 6 sc. FO.
Attach the yarn to the back marker and sc across just like the front. Repeat as for front. I decreased down to 4 sc on the back panel, BUT don’t FO because you need to do the straps. I did 2 sc across the top of the back and turned each row and made two single crochet for 10 rows to make the first strap. After I made the first strap, I slip stitched down the strap to the top of the back piece and then repeated for another strap. ***If you want to make them removable add a little chain at the end of the strap to make a button hole***
*A little pocket would be super cute on the front as well*
I did a simple embroidered eye – here is a close up.
Freckles are just a brown sharpie.
Jae-Lynn’s hair is probably the easiest of all of my dolls. I pulled through some strands at the top of the head – down the upper middle for a few rows. After I had enough rows to braid, I parted down the center and braided. I did not fill in the sides, but added a little Fabri-Tac Glue to hold down the hair to the sides of the head. Easy, easy hair.
No time to make her now? Save a pin and come back soon <3
Thank you XOXO, Jae-Lynn
#thecalendarkids
#jaelynnjuly
@theburgundybasket on IG would love to see your Jae-Lynn dolls <3
See you next month!! <3
