You, Me and the ABCs : Crochet ABC Toys: U is for Unicorn

If you are a crocheter and have a baby or toddler, play room or nursery, and love organization and helping your child learn – this post is for you!  I am posting new patterns for each letter many times per week so keep checking back.

Want a fun way to use your scraps? Want to make a lot of little projects/toys that are great for little ones? Want to custom a special piece for a wee one? – and then end with one big finale? This project is for you! (And you can skip the big finale if it’s not for you and still have all the little toys and ABCs.)

I have compiled the first letters of this event in a convenient downloadable PDF if you prefer to print them out and have them all in one place.  And my printable paid patterns contain a lot more photo tutorials to help you if you need.

You can find the toys for the letters A-F HERE ON MY ETSY.

And now, in Part 2, you can find the letters G-M also on my Etsy at this link right HERE

And MOST ALL of my PAID patterns contain way more photos and tutorials than what I can add to my blog post. I try to keep my fees very low.

Update: I neglected to post the link when I sent group 3 over to my Etsy shop as a downloadable bundle.  You can find Part 3 with the letters N-S as a convenient bundle to print out ALL the toys from that set.  That 41-page PDF contains the following patterns:

Nest, Ninja, Octopus, Panda, , Penguin, Pig, Queen, Rainbow, Robot *you get ALL 3 Robot’s in this PDF and not just the two on my blog, Snake or Snail, , Sun, and two more PDFs: O is for Otter and Owl and you get MY INCREASE AND DECREASE CHEAT SHEET! Part 3 has a LOT!

This project was in my head as I was designing all of these letters and I’m so excited to get this started! Won’t you join me? Here is the latest new pattern to go with the others already linked.  If you prefer to shop on Ravelry for your patterns I also have the entire alphabet PDF over there.

You can begin by deciding what colors you want to use for your letters – I’ll be using them all! – and make up the alphabet  or save this post and wait for the end and make it all at once.

I’m gonna give you some options at the end to make the final part right for you/your space.  Here are some of the previous toys so make sure to check out THE ORIGINAL POST to link hop to them all.

Here are some of the latest patterns that are all free here on my blog. I will be keeping THIS ORIGINAL POST updated with all the links for all of the toys. 

I will be using some of the patterns that I’ve already made for this ABC project and you will see those linked below at the end of this post.  You can go ahead and get started today! I can’t wait to share this with you. I’m planning on at least a weekly update, but I’m going to shoot for two per week. I’m gonna try.

So, join me. Save this post. Let’s get started!

This post does contain affiliate links.  I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same.  I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.

UPDATE: U is for Unicorn: July 11, 2020

I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog.  I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then or a visit to any of my affiliate links really helps.  It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy.  I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers.  Thank you

This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.

You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.

If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.

Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

 

So, honest moment here:  I have been playing around with ‘U is for Umbrella,’ but have several ideas about it running through my head and I am not sure which way I want to go with it just yet – so, I did the next “easy” thing – U is for Unicorn – because I already had a unicorn pattern written from last year.  Unity the Unicorn was already on my blog and in my Etsy and Ravelry, but as my Chart Form Pattern which isn’t easy for those just starting out.  So, I have updated Unity the Unicorn to a full written version for this series.

You can find my new, updated Unicorn pattern HERE IN MY ETSY Shop if you’d like to support me with a small purchase.  It is a 9-page PDF that is easy to follow.

UPDATE: Find a second option on THIS POST FOR A SMALLER Unicorn version.

 

Materials:

The original pattern (Unity the Unicorn) was created with Caron One Pound yarns in gray, white, lilac and Caron Jumbo in Easter Basket along with scraps of other yarns in pink and purple.  This is a great scrap yarn project as you don’t really need much of any one yarn.   The most yarn you need is about 1/3 of the Caron Jumbo to make as many curls as my example has.

The updated version (pink) was created with Red Heart Velvety and is a #5 Bulky yarn, so I didn’t use my size G/4mm hook at all, but rather started with my size H/5mm hook. I’ve also used some scrap peach and cream/gold and Caron One Pound in Spicy Ombre for the curls.

The larger version might seem too large for this A-Z Crochet Toys with Me project, but if you use regular yarn like in the first example, you will get a nice smaller size.

Hook: I used a G, H, and I hook for this pattern.

-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face.  I have used Suncatcher Glass eyes on my first example – they are sparkly and fun. I get mine from Amazon, but Suncatcher has their own website as well. (they have not been on Amazon for quite a while) My updated version uses these eyes in 24mm, but I love these eyes and they come in a lot of different sizes.

-Stuffing.  I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.

– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds.  As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row.  Easy marker!

Spiral Crochet:

I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work.  This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet.   What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row.  It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round.  For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.

Stitch Glossary:

Chain: Ch

Single Crochet: SC

Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated

Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease

Hdc: Half double crochet

Dc: double crochet

Tr: treble crochet

Slip Stitch: sl st

FO: finish off

Working in the CONTINUOUS Round:

*I do not join and chain, but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place.

I start my work with a chain 2 and then sc in second chain from hook, but you can also start with a magic ring if you prefer that start.

This pattern starts with nose/head and then the body is worked.

This pattern begins at the front of the nose and then continues to back of the head.  FO is on back of the head.  After that I like to do the ears, horn, curls etc and sew them on and place the head in my work area to watch me as I finish the rest – but, warning, your smile may get stuck because you won’t be able to stop smiling  =)

Starting with your NOSE/HEAD color and G hook:

Chain 2.  Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail. Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.

After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening.  You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.

You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.

Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)

Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)

Round 6: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)

Rounds 7-12: sc in each stitch around (36)

**do your embroidery for the mouth/nose how you want that before getting too far ahead so you can tie off ends inside. My mouth is between rounds 4-5.

Also make your nostrils and sew them on. Mine are a simple circle of sc 6 in a ring and then for the next round make 2sc in each stitch around for 12sc.  Then I slip stitches around in each stitch and ended with a long tail for sewing.  The nostrils are between rounds 5-9

Round 13: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)

Round 14: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)

(Head) Rounds 15-18: sc in each stitch around (24)

Round 19: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)

– I placed eyes between rounds 19-20 with about 7-8 stitches between them. Place eyes, do eyelashes if you want before placing your backs on the eyes and then once the lashes are like you want and securely tied place your safety backs.

Round 20: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)

Round 21: sc in each stitch around (36)

Round 22: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)

Rounds 23-25: sc in each stitch around (42)

Round 26: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)

*Stuff as you go and stuff well and continue to stuff.

Round 27: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)

Round 28: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)

Round 29: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Round 30: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)

*– place more stuffing inside if needed to be full.

Horn: the horn is worked in the rounds and increases a little different:

Start like the rest – chain 2 and sc in second chain from hook and then make 4 more sc for a total of 5 sc.

Round 2: 2sc, sc 4 (6)

Round 3: 2sc, sc 5 (7)

Round 4: 2sc, sc 6 (8)

Rounds 5-6: 8 sc around (1 in each stitch)

Round 7: 2sc, sc, sc, sc, 2sc, sc, sc, sc (10)

Rounds 8-10: sc around (1 in each stitch)

Round 11: 2sc, sc, sc, sc, sc, 2sc, sc, sc, sc, sc (12)

Rounds 12-16: sc around (1 in each stitch) *you can shorten your horn here if you want by doing less rounds **my updated velvet version has only 2 extra rounds.

FO and leave a long tail to sew.

Stuff lightly.  Pin in place and make sure it is right where you want it before sewing.

Ears (make 2): *I used my H hook for the ears **for my updated velvety version, I used my size I/5.5 mm hook for the bulky yarn.

Repeat the first 4 rounds from the horn (5,6, 7, 8)

Round 5: continue in the pattern of one increase per round.  So, round 5 has 9sc.

Round 6: 10sc

Round 7: 11 sc

Round 8: 12 sc

Round 9: 13 sc

Round 10: 14 sc *FO leaving long tail.  Gather in half at the bottom and fold up to sew

-I stopped now and did all my CURLS and sewed them on to finish the head – you may prefer to finish the body and then sew the head onto it and then do your curls – that part is completely up to you.

I used my I/5.5mm hook and 4-ply worsted weight yarn for all the curls. You can use any weight yarn for these and it’s a great way to use up various colors of scrap yarns.  Just adjusts your hook size to your yarn.

The smaller front curls are a chain of 20 and then 2 hdc in each chain back up.  I left a long tail and the beginning and end of my curls to tie onto the head.  I did 7 curls on my latest example: two next to the horn on each side and three behind.

I made 3 medium curls for the center back of head.  They are a chain of 30 and then 2dc in each chain back up.

On the back of the head, I have 3 fatter curls and the same for the tail made from a chain of 30 and then 3dc in each chain back up.

If you want to place your curls exactly where I have this is how many I made and where I put them:

Make 18 smaller curls.  Three curls go behind each eye in front of the ears starting next to the horn.  Then two go behind those 3 between the horn and the ear.  So, that is 5 on each side for 10 so far.

Two more small curls go just behind the horn.  The last 6 go behind the ears – 3 on each side.  Evenly space your curls so they can have room to curl and move.

Three medium curls go on the back of the head a few rows under the 2 small curls behind the horn.  I have mine evenly space between the ears and behind the curls next to the horn.

The three fat curls go a few rows under the 3 medium ones.

Now, I mentioned earlier to leave a long tail before and after each curl.  What I do is use my embroider needle to sew and tie on each curl – I sew and tie twice for each one for security – then I pull my tails through the head – I pull the tails from 3-4 curls back through to roughly the same space and then braid the tails to make more “hair” – you can also choose not to do this and just hide your tails inside the head/body.

Body:  I used the same color from the back of my head for the body.  I feel that you need to probably use the same color from back of head as you do the body to make your sewing blend in and be invisible. You do not want to do all this work and then have visible sewing stitches.  The body starts from the bottom up and we leave an opening at top for the neck.  You want to pin your head in place and make sure to stuff the neck VERY well before final stitches to support the head.

Chain 2.

Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.

Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail.

After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening.  You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.

You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.

Round 3: (1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18)

Round 4: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)

Round 5: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30)

Round 6: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)

Round 7: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42)

Round 8: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (48)

Rounds 9-18: sc in each stitch around (48) * I placed my curly tail between rounds 9-10 of the body.

Round 19: (1 sc in next 6 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (42)

Round 20: sc in each stitch around (42)

Round 21: (1 sc in next 5 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (36)

Round 22: sc in each stitch around (36)

Round 23: (1 sc in next 4 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30)

Round 24: sc in each stitch around (30)

Round 25: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)

Round 26: sc in each stitch around (24)

Round 27: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Round 28: sc in each stitch around (18) *leave super long tail to sew on the head.

Feet/Legs (make 4): *I have used my H hook for these to make it easier, but I was only lightly stuffing them.  If you go up to this hook size for ease just be aware of overstuffing. I also crochet tight so going up to an H hook may not be an option for you.  You never want to have gaps or holes in your work.

I chose to make long skinny legs/arms (in my Unity the Unicorn version), but you can also stop when you get to your round 10 below when you get to 12 sc around and stop decreasing both to make fatter, bigger legs and maybe do less rows if you choose.  If you are new to amigurumi you may find that the narrow 6 sc around is too tight for you to easily work up- it is not a problem.  Just stop your decreases at 12 sc around and work straight up for your desired number of rows.

*my updated example shows the legs with 12 sc around for 20 rows and 15 rows for the arms.

Repeat rounds 1-4 of the body (6, 12, 18, 24)

Rounds 5-8: one sc in each stitch around (24) *my newer version only has 2 rows of 24

Round 9: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)

Round 10: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)

For skinny legs, Round 11: dec around (6) – – change color to your leg color

For wider legs like in my latest example change color, Rounds 11-20: sc in each stitch around (12)

I added a pink star to the front of Unity.  It is a very simple pattern:

With pink and a size G hook do your start like we have above and place 5 sc in your start.  Then for round 2 make 2 sc in each stitch around for 10sc.  Round 3 gets (1sc, 2sc) around for 15 sc.  That is your center circle.  After you get done with your round 3 and have 15 sc slip stitch in the next stitch and then chain 5.  Working back down the chain make a sc in the 2^nd stitch from the chain and also in the next chain.  Then make a hdc in the 3^rd chain and finally a dc in the last chain of your chain 5.  Now, skip the next stitch on your center circle and slip stitch in the next.  Slip stitch in the next stitch and do another star point like above.  *Each star point (5 in all) get 3 stitches on your center circle.  So, *slip stitch, chain 5, work the stitches above, skip the next stitch, slip stitch in the next and start over. **

Finally, at the very end I chose to wind some pink around the horn and hide it inside the head – so, thread your needle and yarn and go from the back of the head under a curl up through the horn and evenly wind some yarn around and back inside to secure.

Thank you so much for stopping by.  I hope you are all enjoying this crazy, fun thing!!  Catch up with me over @theburgundybasket on IG.  I’d love to see you and your makes there.

Pin this post and come back for all of the A-Z toys!   You can find a link to the original post below to start from the beginning!!

 

I realized after I started this project that I would never be able to update every new post with every new link – once I got down to the end of the alphabet, I would have to update about 20 post with all the links to all the new patters – So, I will be keeping THIS ORIGINAL POST updated with all the new links for all of the new toys.  <3

In addition to the alphabet patterns, below you will find a list of toys that will be linked right here starting now. *these are not set in stone and I may decide to switch them as I work if I am inspired in a different direction. So, pin or save this post and come back and follow along with me or subscribe to my blog and get email updates when I make a new post.

 

Ball – for the ball toys in this project, I refer you to this post to make one – or many – crochet balls using your scrap yarns.  The more textures the better.  You can also add rattle boxes, squeakers, stress balls as filler and more.  UPDATE: B is for Balls

Bunny – I have made a few bunnies in the past and  I will be making another version of my Clover the Baby Bunny Pattern 

UPDATE: Latte Bunny and B is for Bunny

Dinosaur – here on my blog you will find an entire Dinosaur Family.  For this ABC event, I will be making a different version of Scrappy.  He’s the perfect size and uses up some assorted scrap yarns.  If you want a different option, Baby Pea is also a nice small size and also Pinky the Dezzy Inspired DRAGON is a good choice for D is for Dragon.  UPDATE: D is for Dinosaur

Eye – I will be using the eyeball pattern from my Halloween Bag of Balls for this project.  This one would be super cute with some crinkle paper inside.  *Also, when you visit this post there is a Zombie ball that would make a cute Z word.  UPDATE: E is for Eye

Goat – here on my blog you will find Ginger the Goat in my Farm Series.  She is a bit large for this project so she will get a few modifications to be a bit smaller.  Feel free to make her if you want a larger goat.  *Baby KG will be available soon on my blog, but for now she is only in my Etsy and Ravelry.

Lamb– another make from my Farm Series is Lonny the Lamb.  Lonny is a  nice, small size so I will be using this pattern here for the  Lamb, but will switch up the colors I’m sure. Maybe bright? Maybe a girl?

Octopus – in my opinion this octopus squeeze ball is the perfect baby toy when made from cotton so this is the pattern that I will be using right here.  I like to use 100% cotton and the stress/squeeze balls on the inside of the head and it makes these the perfect baby toy with teether capabilities.  And they are so quick to make you can make a handful.

 

Will you be joining in the fun? I’d love for you to make all of this with me, but if not pick a few and make it with me.

I’d love to see all your work or catch up with your progress so connect with me over on IG @theburgundybasket

#youandmeabccrochet

 

XOXO,

Kristi