If you are a crocheter and have a baby or toddler, play room or nursery, and love organization and helping your child learn – this post is for you! I am posting new patterns for each letter many times per week so keep checking back.
Want a fun way to use your scraps? Want to make a lot of little projects/toys that are great for little ones? Want to custom a special piece for a wee one? – and then end with one big finale? This project is for you! (And you can skip the big finale if it’s not for you and still have all the little toys and ABCs.)
I have compiled the first letters of this event in a convenient downloadable PDF if you prefer to print them out and have them all in one place. And my printable paid patterns contain a lot more photo tutorials to help you if you need.
You can find the toys for the letters A-F HERE ON MY ETSY.
And now, in Part 2, you can find the letters G-M also on my Etsy at this link right HERE
And MOST ALL of my PAID patterns contain way more photos and tutorials than what I can add to my blog post. I try to keep my fees very low.
Update: I neglected to post the link when I sent group 3 over to my Etsy shop as a downloadable bundle. You can find Part 3 with the letters N-S as a convenient bundle to print out ALL the toys from that set. That 41-page PDF contains the following patterns:
Nest, Ninja, Octopus, Panda, , Penguin, Pig, Queen, Rainbow, Robot *you get ALL 3 Robot’s in this PDF and not just the two on my blog, Snake or Snail, , Sun, and two more PDFs: O is for Otter and Owl and you get MY INCREASE AND DECREASE CHEAT SHEET! Part 3 has a LOT!
This project was in my head as I was designing all of these letters and I’m so excited to get this started! Won’t you join me? Here is the latest new pattern to go with the others already linked. If you prefer to shop on Ravelry for your patterns I also have the entire alphabet PDF over there. 
You can begin by deciding what colors you want to use for your letters – I’ll be using them all! – and make up the alphabet or save this post and wait for the end and make it all at once.
I’m gonna give you some options at the end to make the final part right for you/your space. Here are some of the previous toys so make sure to check out THE ORIGINAL POST to link hop to them all.
Here are some of the latest patterns that are all free here on my blog. I will be keeping THIS ORIGINAL POST updated with all the links for all of the toys.
I will be using some of the patterns that I’ve already made for this ABC project and you will see those linked below at the end of this post. You can go ahead and get started today! I can’t wait to share this with you. I’m planning on at least a weekly update, but I’m going to shoot for two per week. I’m gonna try.
So, join me. Save this post. Let’s get started!
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.
Did you miss V is for Vampire Bat? It has been well received. Thank you.
I’ve made the Crochet Bat pattern a quick PDF that you can purchase from my Etsy or Ravelry.
Etsy is HERE and Ravelry
UPDATE: V is for Vampire: July 29, 2020
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then or a visit to any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Vampire:
*this is a modification to Q is for Queen. You can mix this pattern and that pattern to make a female vampire.
Materials: I have used my size G/4mm, H/5mm, and I/5.5mm hooks and will note which on each section. The yarn is Caron One Pound in black, white and cream. You won’t need a lot of any one color so this makes a great scrap yarn project. The only yarn I used quite a bit of is the yarn for the cape.
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face.
Here is the pack that the eyes from my example came from:
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
Stitch Glossary:
Chain: Ch
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Hdc: Half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Tr: treble crochet
Picot: chain 3 and slip stitch at the base of the chain 3 or where your chain 3 starts.
Slip Stitch: sl st
FO: finish off
This pattern starts at the bottom of the body and works up toward the head. Start with your G/4mm hook. You will make one leg and finish off and then make a second leg, but don’t finish off after the second leg. You will continue by working around both legs to make the body and then move up to the head. I used black to start.
Legs:
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi): Round 1: 6 sc in second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
Rounds 3-22 sc in each stitch around (12)
After both legs are done hold them side by side and crochet each leg together by crocheting in each stitch around (24)
Round 23-24: sc in each stitch around (24)
Round 25: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Round 26: sc in each stitch around * (18) – finish off black. You can start the shirt color in the last part of the stitch to start the next round.
Rounds 27-31 (in shirt color): sc in each stitch around (18)
Rounds 32-34: sc in each stitch around. On these next rounds of the shirt/skin color you will be making the shirt appear to be open at the neck – so, on the very front of the body you will make on sc in skin color in the center of the body (just carry this color up the inside) – on the next round you will make 3 stitches in skin color over the 1sc from below and the next row you will do 5 sc in skin color over the other 3 from below…see photo. (18) – don’t overfly fret if your skin color doesn’t line up completely perfectly. You will be making a ruffle for the shirt that you will sew at this border between the two colors.
Rounds 35-36: sc in each stitch around and maintain 5 sc in skin color over the 5 from the rounds below. (18)
Round 37: sc 4, inv dec *around (15) *maintain the skin color on the front. You will have one decrease in the skin color section.
Round 38: sc 3, inv dec *around (12) *maintain the skin color on the front. You will have one decrease in the skin color section.
Round 39: sc 2, inv dec * around (9) *maintain the skin color on the front. You will have one decrease in the skin color section. Finish off the shirt color. You will only be using the head color now.
Round 40: sc in each stitch around (9)
*now the head shaping starts. You need to make sure after you get a few rounds of the head done that you stuff the neck well to hold the head/hair.
Round 41: sc in each stitch around (9)
Round 42: sc 2, inc *around (12)
Round 43: sc 3, inc *around (15)
Round 44: sc 4, inc *around (18)
Round 45: sc 2, inc *around (24)
Round 46: sc 3, inc *around (30)
Rounds 47-52: sc in each stitch around (30) **change color to your hair color.
Rounds 53-54: sc in each stitch around (30) in hair color
*add safety eyes if you are using them now before you decrease and continue to stuff well. Mine are between rounds 49-50 with 5 stitches between. Embroider the nose and mouth as you wish here as well if you want to tie off those ends inside.
Round 55: (1 sc in next 3 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (24)
Round 56: (1 sc in next 2 stitches, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (18)
Round 57: (1 sc in next stitch, inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12)
Round 58: (inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (6) – leave a long tail and sew shut and use the long tail to embroider the v hairline on the front of the head.
If using 4-ply worsted weight yarn like me, separate a strand of yarn into 2-ply and use that to make each eye brow.
The ears are two little semi-circles. Leave a small tail and chain 2. Make 3sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and then slip stitch in the same space and leave another small tail. Use the two tails to tie onto the side of the head about 3-4 stitches behind the eyes.
Arms: Use your H/5mm hook and start your circle with 6sc. Work straight until they are the length you want. For my examples, I did 15 rounds. If you are changing color to make a sleeve, start with the skin color and then change to dress color after a few rounds. For the vampire, I did 3 rounds in skin color and then 12 rounds in the shirt color. I like to use the steam setting on my iron and steam arms of dolls. It makes them hang better and softens up the yarn. Don’t touch the iron to the arm – just lightly steam a few inches over. You can feel how soft they are and they drape much better.
Shirt Ruffle: Still with your H/5mm hook, make a chain in the shirt color of about 20. You want the chain to go around the border where the skin shows on the shirt and around the back of the neck. You will be sewing the ruffle to the edge where the shirt color meets the skin color. After you chain make 2hdc in each chain across. Leave a long tail to sew.
Cape: With your size I/5.5 mm hook. You will make two pieces – one in the inside color (red) and one in the outside color (black).
Chain 2 and make 6sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. ROWS NOT ROUNDS now – Chain 1 and turn. Make 2sc in each chain across (12). Chain 1 and turn. Make (sc, 2sc)* across (18) and chain 1 and turn. Make (sc, sc, 2sc)* across and chain 1 and turn (24). Make (sc, sc, sc, 2sc)* across (30) and chain 1. NOW WORK ACROSS the UNWORKED RAW edge evenly in sc. You should get 11 sc if you put on sc in each row end and one in your starting circle.
For the inside part only: Chain 1 and turn. Do the following stitches across the 11sc from the row before: sc, dec sc, sc 5, dec sc, sc (9sc) and then skip to Part 2 below.
For the outside part only: Chain 15. Turn and slip stitch in each chain across and then when you get back to your 11 sc spaces, do the following stitches: sc, dec sc, sc 5, dec sc, sc (9sc) and then chain 15 again for the second tie of the cape. Slip stitch back across each chain and then sc 9 in the 9sc from the row before. Chain 1 and turn.
Part 2: Now, for the cape you will work an increase sc in both sides of the rows alternating every other row. So, for the next row you will do: inc, sc 7, inc (11) chain 1 and turn and then work the next row with no increases for 11sc. Chain 1 and turn and work: inc, sc 9, inc (13) and then work the next row with no increases etc. Repeat this pattern until the cape reaches the width that fits around your doll. For my example, I did increases in the above manner until I had 25 sc across. Work in rows until the length of your cape measures almost to the bottom of the doll and then to gently round the bottom, work additional rows with a dec sc on each side of each row until you are done. So, for example, from 25 sc across work: dec sc, sc 21, dec sc (23). Next row: dec sc, sc 19, dec sc (21). Next row: dec sc, sc 17, dec sc (19) and repeat. I worked in this manner until I had 7 sc across the bottom of my cape. Finish off and weave in the end FOR ONLY THE INSIDE part. Do not finish off the outer color, but hold the two pieces together and sc around both to join them.
The last step will help this piece soften up and drape nicely – STEAM block it with your iron. This will relax and soften the fibers and create a beautiful draped fabric.
Thank you so much for stopping by. I hope you are all enjoying this crazy, fun thing!! Catch up with me over @theburgundybasket on IG. I’d love to see you and your makes there.
Pin this post and come back for all of the A-Z toys! You can find a link to the original post below to start from the beginning!!
I realized after I started this project that I would never be able to update every new post with every new link – once I got down to the end of the alphabet, I would have to update about 20 post with all the links to all the new patters – So, I will be keeping THIS ORIGINAL POST updated with all the new links for all of the new toys. <3
In addition to the alphabet patterns, below you will find a list of toys that will be linked right here starting now. *these are not set in stone and I may decide to switch them as I work if I am inspired in a different direction. So, pin or save this post and come back and follow along with me or subscribe to my blog and get email updates when I make a new post.
Ball – for the ball toys in this project, I refer you to this post to make one – or many – crochet balls using your scrap yarns. The more textures the better. You can also add rattle boxes, squeakers, stress balls as filler and more. UPDATE: B is for Balls
Bunny – I have made a few bunnies in the past and I will be making another version of my Clover the Baby Bunny Pattern
UPDATE: Latte Bunny and B is for Bunny
Dinosaur – here on my blog you will find an entire Dinosaur Family. For this ABC event, I will be making a different version of Scrappy. He’s the perfect size and uses up some assorted scrap yarns. If you want a different option, Baby Pea is also a nice small size and also Pinky the Dezzy Inspired DRAGON is a good choice for D is for Dragon. UPDATE: D is for Dinosaur
Eye – I will be using the eyeball pattern from my Halloween Bag of Balls for this project. This one would be super cute with some crinkle paper inside. *Also, when you visit this post there is a Zombie ball that would make a cute Z word. UPDATE: E is for Eye
Goat – here on my blog you will find Ginger the Goat in my Farm Series. She is a bit large for this project so she will get a few modifications to be a bit smaller. Feel free to make her if you want a larger goat. *Baby KG will be available soon on my blog, but for now she is only in my Etsy and Ravelry.
Lamb– another make from my Farm Series is Lonny the Lamb. Lonny is a nice, small size so I will be using this pattern here for the Lamb, but will switch up the colors I’m sure. Maybe bright? Maybe a girl?
Octopus – in my opinion this octopus squeeze ball is the perfect baby toy when made from cotton so this is the pattern that I will be using right here. I like to use 100% cotton and the stress/squeeze balls on the inside of the head and it makes these the perfect baby toy with teether capabilities. And they are so quick to make you can make a handful.
Will you be joining in the fun? I’d love for you to make all of this with me, but if not pick a few and make it with me.
I’d love to see all your work or catch up with your progress so connect with me over on IG @theburgundybasket
#youandmeabccrochet
XOXO,
Kristi
