Let’s do this 2020 one-doll-per-month thing! If you didn’t see the post where all The Calendar Kids ©️ were introduced, you may enjoy seeing what is coming up each and every month this year. Every month this year, a new doll pattern will be here for you to enjoy for FREE! Make sure to pin this pin and come back on the first of each month for a new free pattern – or just follow my blog and you will get an email when I post new content.
My dolls all feature different hair and face techniques to make a doll for multiple age groups. So, if you popped over to check out my October doll and don’t love him, make sure to pin this post and check out other months because they are all different.
And BEST of ALL – MOST require very little sewing as MOST have the heads as a continuation from the body.
Here is a pin you can save for later to follow me this year as I share my love of these dolls with you.
Can’t wait to make all the dolls this year? Or want to combine a few patterns/clothes to custom make your own doll? You can find the entire 204 page E-book right HERE on Etsy. (Right now it is just all 12 pdfs put together, but I am in the process of modifying this to move parts that are redundant and make this smaller. So, stay tuned. **I have it down to 170 pages and just need to edit it a bit more. It will be replacing the current one soon- if you are waiting. SECOND UPDATE ** it is with my last proof reader/tech editor now) If you prefer Ravelry, I also have them set up for you here – for Ravelry you have to put them all in your cart rather than in an eBook format. 
Owen is a movie star! He is my favorite doll of my 12 dolls. There is something quite mischievous about him. And his pattern is FULL. His PDF is 18 pages and includes patterns for his hoodie (that you can also do in other colors without the bottom ribbing to make a coat for the girl dolls), removable pants, shoes, and a ball cap that can also be made for the girl dolls. He is crocheted wearing a tshirt/tank top and underwear. His eyes are crocheted so he’s perfect for little kids. He is so handsome that I just can’t stop looking at him. If you are making a girl doll and need some more clothes, I recommend this pattern to help with hoodie/coat, pants, shoes and hat. You can always modify for size and color.
You can find his PDF in my ETSY SHOP and my Ravelry.
All of my paid patterns have more photos, tips and tutorials etc. My free blog patterns give all the written pattern, but more photo tutorials are included in my paid pattern.
Did you miss my other dolls this year? If so and you want a quick link to them here they are:
Mario May-one of two of my boy dolls
Jazzy June GRADUATED this year as well so check out how to make a graduation gown and cap on THIS POST.
And, if you missed it, check out how I modified Delaney December and Owen October into NURSE and DOCTOR dolls to celebrate all the medical workers. You can read more ON THIS POST.
I want to say thank you for all who stop by to support my patterns and my blog. I have chosen to NOT do ads on my blog (with the exception of my affiliate links) and offer FREE patterns, but please – if you love my patterns and want to say a little thank you- or just have some good small business karma support points- a purchase now and then from any of my affiliate links really helps. It keeps this blog going so I can continue to offer free patterns for all to enjoy. I also purchase a pattern now and then or visit an affiliate link from my favorite blogs and designers. Thank you
THE CALENDAR KIDS©️ Owen October ©️ DOLL PATTERN
This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern -and all my patterns- are offered for free or a small fee to help support my family, so please do not redistribute, sell, copy or use them in any way not in accordance with fairness.
You may sell products made from this pattern, but please give me credit as the designer. Please do not use my photos as your own work, but you may use my photos to reference back to my blog, Etsy, Pinterest, IG or FB, but please link back to me.
If you find any problems with this pattern please let me know and if you have any problems with any of it feel free to message me and ask for support.
Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2020. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Owen October ©️ Is the tenth doll in a yearlong series of dolls. Each month in 2020, I will be making a new doll to accompany Owen and all my dolls, will feature different, changeable clothing, hair and face techniques.
Owen, and all his friends, can be found only right here. Join me this year as I make all my Calendar Kids ©️ Come to life. Find me at TheBurgundyBasket.com
All of my patterns are written using US Crochet Terms.
This post does contain affiliate links. I will get a small percentage from any purchase made through my page here, but your price remains the same. I appreciate any purchase made through my page as I can continue to offer free patterns here on my blog.
Materials:
These dolls are designed to have stash-busting in mind. For many parts of these dolls you only need the smallest scraps of yarn. Even for the skin parts, you won’t need that much. I encourage you to dig through your stash pile. When you need larger amounts, I will make note of these on all of my dolls. My Calendar Kids ©️ range in size from 17-22”, but your size may vary depending on the yarn and hook that you use.
-Hook: I used a G/4mm hook for this for the most part. Any changes will be noted. These are the only hooks I use now:
-I typically use Caron One-Pound for all of my Amigurumi, Dolls and Toys. It is a great, sturdy yarn that doesn’t get “splitty” when crocheting and it holds up well for little hands. I will note what my skin color is for each doll because Caron makes great skin tones! I will also note any different materials that I use.
-For Owen, I have used an old vintage skein of One Pound Creslan Pure Fisherman for his skin. It’s a cream color. His pants are Deborah Norville Everyday yarn by Premier Yarn in Oak Moss and I have used a scrap of gray and green for his underpants and tank top. His hair is some random Mohair that I picked up at a thrift shop with some coordinating 4-ply scrap yarn. I have done his shoes in Caron One Pound in white and tan.
I haven’t used this particular mohair yarn, but the color is a good substitution for what I have used on the hair:
-Safety Eyes or buttons (or yarn to embroider if you choose) and needle to embroider face. I have crocheted Owen’s eyes and this pattern contains those instructions.
-Stuffing. I have used Poly-Fill brand stuffing, but feel free to use what you prefer.
Optional, but very nice for head support: 6-pack of foam rollers:
– I don’t use Stitch markers, but if you do you will want those to keep track of your rounds. As a “free” stitch marker you can loop a bright colored piece of scrap yarn through your stitch to act as a marker – then just pull it out when you get back around to it and move it up one row. Easy marker! If you are new to crochet doll making or want to get yourself a gift I highly recommend this kit that has it all.
Hints and Tips for Stuffies, Ragdolls, Amigurumi etc.
Spiral Crochet:
I crochet in the “spiral” for this project and for most of my work. This prevents the joining seam that can occur with crochet. What that means is that you don’t join each round with a slip stitch and then chain 1, but rather keep on working the next stitch – the first one from the previous row. It may help to use a stitch marker to designate the beginning of the previous round. For example, if your round calls for 30 sc stitches, then sc 30 around, but instead of slip stitching to the first stitch and then chaining one, sc in the first stitch and keep on going for your next round.
Invisible Decrease:
Doing an invisible single crochet decrease is one of the best things I ever learned! There are many online tutorials on this so look up doing the invisible decrease single crochet online and you will not be sorry. Essentially, you will be doing your single crochet decrease in only the front loops of the crochets being decreased.
Stitches Guide: *US Terms apply
Chain: Ch
Stitch: St
Single Crochet: SC
Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated
Half-double Crochet: hdc
Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease
Invisible Single Crochet 3 Together: inv3sctog
Double Crochet: DC
BLO: back loop only/ FLO: front loop only
HDC Puff Stitch (x): hdcpuff(x): I use a half double crochet puff stitch for some parts of the dolls. Sometimes it a 2 puff, sometimes 3, 4, and sometimes 5. For example, to hdc puff (4) you will: Yarn over and insert hook into space, pull up a loop, yarn over and insert hook into space again and pull up another loop, (that’s 2), yarn over and pull up another loop (3), and finally, yarn over and pull up a loop for the 4th time. Now, yarn over and pull through all loops on chain. This is a hdc puff (4) – sometimes I will specify a 3 and sometimes a 2 – this is how many times you yarn over – it makes either a small or a large puff.
**a NOTE: I have blogged dolls from Jan-Sept this year. Each month there is a new doll – if you have any problems with any of this pattern like joining the legs or making the face increases/decreases there are more photos in my other blog tutorials and many more photos in my paid patterns. I just can’t put all the photos here on my blog – BUT, I do have a leg joining and face photos in my other free blog patterns so checkout those dolls if you need more help.
Basic Doll Feet/Legs with “Toes” (make 2)
For Owen, I started with his skin color and made “toes.”
*continuous spiral crochet
If you are making a doll with boots, socks or tennis shoes etc. just skip the puff stitched “toes” and carry on with regular single crochet.
A note on my pattern writing:
If I write “sc 2” it means single crochet one in the next two stitches. If I write “2sc” it means make 2 single crochet in the same space.
Right Foot/Leg: Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook 2sc, sc in the next 8st, 4sc in last stitch, going along other side of chain: sc 8, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – we are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28) *if making socks just work in both loops
—————————————————————————————————————-
IF MAKING SOCKS/SHOES/BOOTS: R4: Sc around (28) and then GO TO Round 5 below.
IF MAKING FEET: R4: sc 12, hdc puff 4, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 2, sc 11
R5: sc 8, (inv dec) 6, sc 8 (22)
R6: sc 5, (inv dec) 6, sc 5 (16)
R7: sc 4, (inv dec) 4, sc 4 (12) *start stuffing*
*stuff leg firm as you go up. This doll can stand up when completed – at least propped up – but, the feet and legs need to be stuff firm.
R8-30: sc around (12) – that’s 276 stitches if you are working in the spiral. If you are making underwear/shorts change to that color on your last stitch.
R31-35: sc around (12) FO ONLY the First leg.
Left Foot/Leg: DON’T FASTEN OFF THE SECOND LEG
For the left leg, you will work exactly as you did for the right leg if you are making socks, but the basic doll pattern with “toes” like for Owen has this modification for the Left leg:
R4: sc 11, hdc puff 2, [hdc puff 3] 3, hdc puff 4, sc 12*just in case you need clarification, the puff stitches make “toes” so the larger puff is the big toe etc.
You will make the second leg all the way up and then join the two and make hips.
NOW – hold both legs facing you with toes toward you. You want to be at the center part of the inside of the left leg – so, maybe crochet a few extra stitches. You are joining the legs on the inside edge. (see photos) Single crochet around the left leg until you get to the most “inside” stitch. This will NOT make any difference at the end. *after round 35, you may be at a point on your left leg where it makes more sense to pull out a few stitches instead of adding some – that is totally fine as well.
Slip Stitch into the inner most stitch of the LEFT leg then chain 6 and slip stitch into the coordinating inner most stitch on the RIGHT leg to join the two legs. Chain up 1.
R1: sc in the same space as the chain 1 and around the right leg (12), sc in each chain of the chain 6 space, sc around the left leg for 12, single crochet in the same chain 6 space in front of the other single crochets (36)
Rounds 2-5: sc around (36)- on the last stitch of round 5 you will switch color to your shirt color. If you are not crocheting a t-shirt for you doll “built” in to the body you may be changing here to the skin color instead. TIP: I like to do my color changes on the back side of my work so I usually do a few more single crochet to get back around to the back side of the body.
In new color and in BLO: R6: sc around (36)
R7 – 24: IN BOTH LOOPS sc around (36) ***check your stuffing*** and change to skin color on the last stitch of R24.
R25: In skin color, sc around (36)
*at the end of round 25 it is SUPER important that you be in the middle stitch of the back. This is the place where I am starting my count to make the arm holes and shape up to the neck.
**this is also a great place to add any embellishments that you want to the shirt – pockets, appliqued numbers/letters, embroider names etc. anything.
*there are more photos in my PDF. You should have 36 stitches so that leaves 18 for each side. It is super important to have 36 stitches right now. If you do not – do not fear – take out the last row and make any adjustments like a decrease or increase if you need. Do this in the back of the body.
Mark the middle stitch on the front of the body. Mark this stitch – you will have 18 stitches for each half
From the center stitch on the back, here are your stitches that you will work for round 26:
[inv sc dec, sc, sc, inv sc dec, chain 6, skip 6, inv sc dec, sc, sc, inv sc dec] (this should put you at the marked stitch in the middle on the front) repeat above from [ to ] (28)
Round 27: sc around (28)
Round 28: (sc, inv sc dec, sc, sc 6 (these are on/over the arm hole), sc, inv sc dec, sc) repeat once (24)
Round 29: sc in the next two stitches, inv sc dec over the next two* repeat around (18) *check your stuffing and continue to stuff as needed
Round 30: sc in the next stitch, inv sc dec over the next two* repeat around (12)
Now, here you can choose to do the arms or keep going and go on to the head. I think the arms are the better place to go next so that you can make sure you have enough stuffing inside the body when you get to the head. If your arm holes are open when you do the head your stuffing might not stay. Also, if you are using a foam roller for head support, you will want to have those arm holes closed up to get it inserted and stuffed just right. I also wanted to “buff” up the shoulders and upper arms so I did the arms first.
So, for those reasons I am presenting the arms next in the pattern:
Basic Doll Hands/Arms (make 2)
****I USE MY E/F HOOK FOR THESE***** I used my E hook for the girls and the F for the boys.
Ch 2 (you can also use a magic ring if that is your preferred method of starting a circle or amigurumi) – continuous spiral
Round 1: Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first sc from round 1, make (1 sc, 2 sc)* repeat around (9) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 9 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work.
R3: *1 sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (12)
R4-5: sc in each stitch around (12) (12)
R6: sc 7, ch 3, skip 1, sc 4 (11sc and one chain 3 space)
R7: sc 7, 3sc in the space, sc 4 (14)
R8: sc 7, 3sctog, sc 4 (12)
R9: *sc in next 2sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (9)
R10-21: sc in each stitch around. (9)
R22: (sc, sc, 2sc)* around (12)
R23: (sc, sc, sc, 2sc)* around (15)
R24: 2sc, sc 14 (16)
R25: sc in each stitch around (16)
FO and leave a long tail to sew to the shoulder. BEFORE you sew the arm onto the body, do the thumb:
THUMB: join yarn to the side of the thumb space and sc evenly around for 6 sc. (R1)
R2: 6sc around
R3: dec sc around (3) FO and pull tail through hand before cutting. Shape thumb *I actually use the steam setting on my iron to steam block the arms. What this does for my Caron yarn is soften the arm/thumb up for a more natural “hanging” look instead of being stiff. If you have never done steam blocking on any acrylic crochet piece please look this up. The main this is NOT TO TOUCH THE IRON to your piece, but just steam about 1 inch above it and shape while warm.
And now sew to the body:
When you sew the arm to the shoulder, you will have 6 stitches on the top of the shoulder, 6 on the bottom and you will do 2 stitches in the sides of the arm hole. **make sure to twist the hand so that the thumb is in the right position on each hand before you sew to the shoulder. After sewing the arms on I pushed a little stuffing into the shoulder to make him “beefy” 😊
HEAD *continue to work in a spiral
Round 1: sc in each stitch around (12)
Round 2: *1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (18)
Round 3: *1sc in next two sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (24)
Round 4: *1sc in next three sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (30)
Round 5: *1sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (36)
Round 6: sc around (36)
Round 7: *1sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc** repeat around (42)
Rounds 8-10: 1sc in each stitch around working in a spiral (42)
Round 11: On this round stop and face doll toward you. You need to find the FRONT MOST 8 STITCHES on the front of the face. They should line up with the inside of the shoulder. There are way more photos to do the face in my other dolls and in my PDFs.
Mark the front 8 stitches and then proceed. *You may want to mark where you are this round so you know where to finish* You will sc around until you reach the first marked stitch and then you will do 4 inv sc decreases over those 8 stitches. Then sc around to finish the round. You should end with 38 sc.
Rounds 12-13: sc around (38)
Round 14: For this round we are going to do the opposite of what you did on Round 11 – you are going to inc sc two rows above where you did your decreases. In the below photo you will see the marked line and just above that you can see my decreases – above that you see my sc in those in the round above – then, where I have marked (4 stitches) I am going to increase in each one of those – so, the opposite of what we did earlier. When you get done you will again have 42 single crochet.
Rounds 15-19: sc around (42) – if you are going to change color to match your hair you will do that on this last stitch.
This is where I stop to do the face and then start stuffing.
I embroidered the nose between the eyes just a little lower and embroidered the mouth. I have added a little dark brown yarn just above the eyes and eyebrows. The nose for Owen is just made with the yarn in and out going up and down. I did a wide nose for Owen, but you can adjust your width to what you prefer.
Start decreasing. Stuff as required. It is important to have enough stuffing, but not so much you pucker your stitches out. You do want your dolls to be firm. You need the heads stuffed well to hold the hair.
Round 20: *1 sc in the next 5 sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (36)
Round 21: *1 sc in next four sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (30)
Round 22: *1 sc in next three sc, inv dec over the next 2 sc* repeat around (24)
Round 23: *sc in next 2 sc, inv dec over next 2* repeat around (18)
Round 24: *sc in next sc, inv dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (12)
FO leaving a long tail. After you push the last bit of stuffing up into your doll you want to sew the opening closed. Hide tail inside your doll by pulling the needle in and out of your doll a few times before cutting.
Owen’s eyes are simple crochet eyes:
I used my F hook and started with black yarn and a chain 2.
With your black, make 7 sc in the 1st chain and then – still working in a spiral – make 2 sc in the first 3 stitches of your round 1 black and switch color on the last stitch to what your eye color will be. For me that was blue. Make 2 sc in each of the rest of the round 1 stitches – that will be 8 sc in the eye color to finish round 2. Round 2 total stitch count is 14 – 2sc in each stitch of round 1 (7sc) – 6 in black and 8 in your eye color. After round 2, I did 3 slip stitches in the eye color and finished off with a tail to sew. Doesn’t he look like a movie star?
The ears are a simple circle like this:
Leave a short tail to start. Chain 2. In 2nd chain from hook make the following stitches: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, chain 3 and slip stitch back into first stitch and FO with tail to sew. The dc is the bottom of the ear – so, flip the second ear over when you sew. The ears get sewed on about 5-6 stitches behind the eyes with the top of the ear even with the eye. I use the two tails to tie on and then hide the tails inside the head.
HAIR Owen’s hair was super easy – a bit time consuming, but super easy – just attach the yarn you are using (I used orange mohair) and do some chains and slip stitches all around the head and face. I did mainly chain 6’s and slip stitched my hair line – this part is largely up to you. You can see in my photo how I did the hair line -down in front of the ears and up across the forehead – If you make longer chains you will have longer curls.
Pants:
I used my H size hook and my Oak Moss for the pants:
Make 2:
Chain 25 and join to make a ring.
Sc 25 in each stitch and then you are going to work straight for 10 more rows. You can choose to work in a continuous spiral like I have done or join each row and chain 1 if you prefer. If you are working in a spiral you will do 250 stitches straight up. After that you need to evenly decrease 5 stitches on the next round. (20) and then work straight up for 30 more rows (600 stitches) and then you will only FINISH OFF THE FIRST LEG. After making the second pants leg, you will join them just like you did the legs. After the pants are joined, you should have 52 stitches around – 20 on each leg and then 6 in front and 6 on back of your chain 6 joining to connect the legs. You will now have to adjust the pants to your doll – this will be determined by the size of your doll, the amount of your stuffing and how high you want the pant to go up, but keep trying them on until you have the top where you want it. You may also want/need to decrease some stitches around the waist part. After I got almost the length I wanted, I did my last two rounds with alternating front post and back post half double crochet to make a “waist band.”
Hoodie:
Using your I hook and 4-ply yarn:
Chain 37 and sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain to the end (36 sc)
Chain 1 and turn and sc in each stitch across for the length you want. Owen’s hoodie has 19 rows.
For the arm holes:
Sc 6, chain 8, skip 4, sc 16, chain 8, skip 4, sc 6, chain 1 and turn
Sc 6, hdc 10 in the space created by your chain 8 from the row before, dec sc 2, sc 8, dec sc 2, hdc 10 in space, sc 6, chain 1 and turn
Sc across, chain 1 and turn
Sc 6, dec sc 5, sc 12, dec sc 5, sc 6, chain 1 and turn
Sc dec 2, sc 8, dec sc, sc 6, dec sc, sc 8,sc dec 2, chain 1 and turn
Dec sc 3, sc 16, dec sc 3 (22) – chain 1 and turn
These next rows make the hood. You will work straight with one sc in each stitch and a chain 1 and turn at the end of each row. I worked for 28-30 rows to the length I wanted and then worked back half way down one row and folded the top in half and slip stitched closed. (to keep from sewing anything. You can close the top the method you prefer.) Finish off.
Attach your yarn to the bottom edge of the hood and work sc evenly around hood for the number of rows you want to make your hood as deep as you want.
For the arms, I started at the cuff of each yarn to make ribbing and worked up to the shoulder. I made two and then sewed them to the hoodie.
So, for the cuff I chained 4 and worked 3 sc back down the chain. Chain 1 and turn and work in rows BACK LOOP ONLY for each row. I did 12 rows for Owen’s hoodie. After getting done with the rows, slip stitch them together and work around the cuff in sc (one sc per row, so for me I did 12 sc evenly around the cuff) – then work in rounds until the arms are the length you want. I did 10 rounds of 12 sc around and then I did an increase to 15 sc around (1sc in each of next 3 and then 2 sc in the next) * repeat around. After I increased to 15 sc, I did another 2 rounds of 15sc around and then sewed to the shoulder of the hoodie.
The last step is to make bottom ribbing to gather your “jacket” to make it look like a hoodie. But as written so far this would be a nice coat for one of the girl dolls as well.
So, use your next smaller hook (for me I grabbed my H hook) and make ribbing just like for the cuff, but I did 5sc for the bottom ribbing for 28 rows. You want your number of rows to be smaller than the stitch count for your hoodie – so, for the hoodie in the example, I had 36 stitches of sc – for the ribbing in this case we want no more than 28 rows to gather up the bottom of the hoodie. After you make the ribbing leave a long tail and stretch and pin to the bottom of the hoodie. Stretch it evenly along the bottom and sew in place.
Hat:
I used a scrap of 4-ply yarn and my size I hook.
Chain 2.
Half double crochet (hdc) 8 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail.
Starting in the first hdc make 2 hdc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (16) *Still work over the starting tail.
After getting done with all 16 hdc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it.
Round 3: (Make 1 hdc in next stitch, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 4: (Make 1 hdc in next 2 stitches, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (32)
Round 5: (Make 1 hdc in next 3 stitches, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (40)
Rounds 6-9: hdc in each stitch around
Round 10: sc in each stitch around
*now you will switch from rounds to rows.
Sc in FLO in the next 14 stitches. Slip stitch in the next stitch and turn (do not chain up)
[Skip slip stitch and sc in the next 14 stitches. Slip stitch in the next stitch on the hat. (turn, but do not chain up)] repeat this row two more times
Dec sc, sc 10, dec sc (12) chain 1 and turn
Sc 12 across, chain 1 and turn
Dec sc, sc 8, dec sc (10) chain 1 and turn
Sc 10 across, chain 1 and turn
Dec sc, sc 6, dec sc (8), chain 1 and turn
Sc, hdc, dc 4, hdc, sc
Single crochet around the entire hat. Weave in end.
Shoes: I have a FULL step-by-step photo tutorial on the shoes in the PDF if you need any help. *with your H hook and your bottom shoe color:
Do as for foot for rounds 1-4. I will list that here again for ease:
Ch 11
Round 1: in 2nd chain from hook 2sc, sc in the next 8st, 4sc in last stitch, going along other side of chain: sc 8, 2sc in last stitch (24) – don’t join – we are continuous spiral crocheting
R (Round) 2: 1sc, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc 2, 1inc, sc 8, 1inc, sc (28)
R3: BLO (28)
R4: sc around (28) and on last stitch change color to your upper shoe color
R5: sc around (28) BUT do post stitches on this round in your top shoe color. I worked the single crochet post stitches just like you would do a back post double crochet, but you are working in sc.
Round 6: sc around on this round, but find the FRONT MOST 4 stitches and do 2 inv dec sc across those four stitches. (26)
Round 7: sc around on this round, but find the FRONT MOST 8 stitches and do 4 inv dec sc across those eight stitches. (22)
Round 8: Now, you will slip stitch around in the BLO until you get to the FRONT FOUR STITCHES – these are boots from Mario, but same pattern rules apply.
Now, in those FRONT FOUR STITCHES you are going to SC BLO in only those four and then chain 1 and turn.
Work in rows:
Sc across 4 and chain 1 and turn. * repeat this row three more times. After you finish these rows, slip stitch down the side to get to the top of the shoe.
Tongue: chain 1 and turn and sc around tongue with 3sc on each side on the top of the tongue and then when you get back to the top of the shoe finish your slip stitches all the way around.
For the sides of the shoes, attach your yarn to the top of the shoe a few stitches behind the tongue and make a chain 2 (not a stitch). (With the toe of the shoe facing you, attach to the right side). Make the following stitches going down at a slight angle: dc, dc, tr, tr, dc, dc, and then slip stitch about 6 stitches across the front of the shoe and then working the opposite of what you just did at a slight angle upward, make the following stitches: chain 2, dc, dc, tr, tr, dc, dc and slip st and finish off. Weave in your end.
Thank you XOXO, Owen
#thecalendarkids
#owenoctober
@theburgundybasket on IG would love to see your Owen dolls <3
See you next month!! <3
Kristi
